PointByPatrol #21985 Build Journal! RIP #9243

[PointByPatrol]

ok 244 F is just a normal Tuesday on a FK8 haha. Felt the same really? Every reviewer says the FL5 rotates so much easier. And I think you are the first one to upgrade to an FL5 that used to track their FK8 hard. I'll wait for your observations next trackday then!



It is, both on the facelift FK8 and the FL5. But I have seen reports that the algorithm is actually good enough, less than 10 C error on a stock car. My friend's car was stock, so his 150 C measure should be close to reality. Your "readings" are certainly wrong since you installed the oil cooler.

I had RV6 gear on my FK8...so perhaps not a fair assessment.

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[PointByPatrol]

Some of the in car video is great...but I'll admit that this is the first time I've actually shot another driver "the bird"...Not my finest moment...might keep that video to myself.

 

[keller]

I don’t think its less efficient, coolant temps are improved from FK8 but they will still rise a bit. I have not gotten super high coolant temps yet. The reason the oil temp is climbing is because the oil cooler is not sufficient for the rate the oil temps climb, don’t really think its inefficiency.

My reasoning is that the rejected power that goes into the oil should be the same as in the FK8, and the heat exchanger is the same. What makes the Oil temp rise quicker in the FL5 (even though ECTs are A LOT better) and slower on the FK8? My FK8 never saw 150 C Oil temp after 2 laps on the same track at the same day. I reasoned the increased coolant flow resulted in less heat being extracted from the oil, what I mentioned as "less efficient". Yours, if any, is a FAR easier issue to solve, but it makes me curious anyway because I wanted to increase the coolant flow as well.

 

[Jester04]

My reasoning is that the rejected power that goes into the oil should be the same as in the FK8, and the heat exchanger is the same. What makes the Oil temp rise quicker in the FL5 (even though ECTs are A LOT better) and slower on the FK8? My FK8 never saw 150 C Oil temp after 2 laps on the same track at the same day. I reasoned the increased coolant flow resulted in less heat being extracted from the oil, what I mentioned as "less efficient". Yours, if any, is a FAR easier issue to solve, but it makes me curious anyway because I wanted to increase the coolant flow as well.

It should never be even with the oil and water, water releases heat way faster than oil. So it the water temps are overall cooler its because the radiator and engine ventilation are working better. Oil holds a lot of heat so the water will eventually won’t do anything.

As far as the oil temps since they are estimated there could be a variation in reading compared to actual temp.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Found the video. Looks like the maximum temp hit 258, and the oil temp will only go as high as 302 before it just turns into empty dash marks. Coolant bars were all the way up on the left hand gauge. My fault entirely for not noticing. The dash had popped on a message saying that the engine was too hot and to allow the vehicle to cool, but I went an entire lap with that message on because I simply didn't notice it. Log R was not available on the large screen that is easier to scrutinize at speed because I had accidentally hit some button on the steering wheel, and could not select log r again because I had gloves on. Still my fault, but it would be nice if the car would do a little more to tell you to chill out. I couldn't hear any chimes, and there was no warning when the coolant had gone past half way on the gauge. I didn't even notice the car pulling power, and my track times certainly don't indicate that I was losing power.

Just ordered the PWR Track Spec Radiator...I'm beyond annoyed with this. I chased overheating with the FK8 and threw a bunch of money at it...and here I go again...

 

[rBobby]

Thanks for the build/track updates. I believe oil temp is calculated and not a direct reading. I used to put a temp sticker on my oil filter to get an idea of oil temp range on my previous cars that had calculated or no oil temp gauges to see how hard I could push at the track. May be an option if you don't install an aftermarket oil temp gauge.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Thanks for the build/track updates. I believe oil temp is calculated and not a direct reading. I used to put a temp sticker on my oil filter to get an idea of oil temp range on my previous cars that had calculated or no oil temp gauges to see how hard I could push at the track. May be an option if you don't install an aftermarket oil temp gauge.

That's not a bad idea...and it looks like running the heat in the car is a must. Seriously hope I didn't cause lasting damage.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Here's an in car video of my last full session!

 

[Rhorn]

16 row. I don't actually trust the oil over heated. It's still clean. Not burnt. When I popped the hood in the pit it didn't feel crazy hot. Something doesn't add up.

Just trying to understand things.

You saw your ECTs go up to 258, and the oil temps shot above 300F before the sensor gave up reading. I don't really know what's normal for these engines because I am new to this type of stuff. Is the 258F Coolant temps bad? Just wondering what the ideal range should be before it gets "high" like I know for the oil, once its around 300F thats not a good sign.

Do you know exactly when the reduced power mode came on?

I would say that maybe there was a false positive? Because the ECU threw on the light from the oil sensor but you checking the oil cooler and feeling that it wasn't hot and it looked fine indicates that the clearly oil wasn't that high. The only thing that kind of kills my theory is that the engine coolant did some weird stuff, so maybe it could have been the coolant that caused triggered the ECU.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Just trying to understand things.

You saw your ECTs go up to 258, and the oil temps shot above 300F before the sensor gave up reading. I don't really know what's normal for these engines because I am new to this type of stuff. Is the 258F Coolant temps bad? Just wondering what the ideal range should be before it gets "high" like I know for the oil, once its around 300F thats not a good sign.

Do you know exactly when the reduced power mode came on?

I would say that maybe there was a false positive? Because the ECU threw on the light from the oil sensor but you checking the oil cooler and feeling that it wasn't hot and it looked fine indicates that the clearly oil wasn't that high. The only thing that kind of kills my theory is that the engine coolant did some weird stuff, so maybe it could have been the coolant that caused triggered the ECU.

The coolant really isn't happy above 225, so 258 was bad news bears. I don't believe the oil temps...simply doesn't make sense. The warning light didn't come on until my last lap, but I didn't notice until the checkered flag, so I went a full push lap with the car in a very fragile state. I feel pretty dumb...

 

[Jester04]

The coolant really isn't happy above 225, so 258 was bad news bears. I don't believe the oil temps...simply doesn't make sense. The warning light didn't come on until my last lap, but I didn't notice until the checkered flag, so I went a full push lap with the car in a very fragile state. I feel pretty dumb...

Don’t feel like that, in the heat of the moment you really don’t look at that stuff. It happens to the best of us.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Don’t feel like that, in the heat of the moment you really don’t look at that stuff. It happens to the best of us.

It was especially difficult on that track because the straights were short and also required a lot of attention.

 

[Jester04]

It was especially difficult on that track because the straights were short and also required a lot of attention.

Yeah so don’t sweat it, it should be fine. Lets see if the radiator can help cool things down.

 

[Rhorn]

The coolant really isn't happy above 225, so 258 was bad news bears. I don't believe the oil temps...simply doesn't make sense. The warning light didn't come on until my last lap, but I didn't notice until the checkered flag, so I went a full push lap with the car in a very fragile state. I feel pretty dumb...

Hmm well how is the car now? Im always a strong believer in that when you are pushing the car that hard if something really is wrong and if something did indeed break then it would be immediate. There was a guy a few months ago who had the new RV6 turbo blow up from overheating lol, it was pretty clear that something on his car wasn't right.

I wouldn't beat yourself up over it shit happens, it was the last lap. Probably would have been a different story if it popped up on your 2nd lap lol ? I just watched that Misha guy on YouTube who drove a FK8 on the Nürburgring (no cooling mods were done) and just like you that overheating light popped up, it took awhile before he even noticed it while fulling sending the car on the Nürburgring and the car was fine.

 

[PointByPatrol]

Hmm well how is the car now? Im always a strong believer in that when you are pushing the car that hard if something really is wrong and if something did indeed break then it would be immediate. There was a guy a few months ago who had the new RV6 turbo blow up from overheating lol, it was pretty clear that something on his car wasn't right.

I wouldn't beat yourself up over it shit happens, it was the last lap. Probably would have been a different story if it popped up on your 2nd lap lol ? I just watched that Misha guy on YouTube who drove a FK8 on the Nürburgring (no cooling mods were done) and just like you that overheating light popped up, it took awhile before he even noticed it while fulling sending the car on the Nürburgring and the car was fine.

The bars on the coolant gauge were high for a number of laps before the overheat message appeared. All went unnoticed. I had hit a button on my steering wheel while driving and it jumped out of log R. I tried to hit the log R button but it didn't work because I was wearing gloves. It can be difficult to scrutinize the dash on some tracks.

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