Kazuo_WFC 2025 Civic Type R build

[Sporky McGeuschky]

Wow, this is pretty impressive. Not gonna ask where you get the Lucci for all these unicorn parts.

Is there any chance you took your FL5 for a Dyno run before getting this cam work installed?
It would be interesting to see before and after with HP and torque, although we already have aggregate "close enough" stats for the stock FL5 platform ...

OR...

Are these cam parts just supposed to be smoother polished and / or higher quality steel, or other quality of life / "peace of mind" upgrade?
Better fuel economy, perhaps? (Yeah, right!)

Sponsored

 

[Agen2integra]

Such an impressive build, I actually went through all of these pages last night admiring all the work and parts that have gone into this. Kudos to you @nojeebs!!

Also my cat’s name is Geebs, pronounced Jeebs.

 

[nojeebs]

Wow, this is pretty impressive. Not gonna ask where you get the Lucci for all these unicorn parts.

Is there any chance you took your FL5 for a Dyno run before getting this cam work installed?
It would be interesting to see before and after with HP and torque, although we already have aggregate "close enough" stats for the stock FL5 platform ...

OR...

Are these cam parts just supposed to be smoother polished and / or higher quality steel, or other quality of life / "peace of mind" upgrade?
Better fuel economy, perhaps? (Yeah, right!)

I sell feet pics on my OF.

Actually that's a good idea as I usually just throw on mods, tune it and see what it makes and be content. My buddy is giving me access to use his work's dynapac at a discount so I'll see how much to just baseline it.

The valve train upgrades are to help with mid to high range power and slightly increase the redline. I'm hoping for 7800k ~ 8K. It's also for protection and longevity as the springs can handle more abuse if an over rev ever happens. I'm no engineer on cams but I think they mill them to be more aggressive to allow more air and fuel in to make more power. I went with 4 Piston's 2.5 cam as it's still considered streetable anything more race spec would sacrifice drivability for daily use.

Such an impressive build, I actually went through all of these pages last night admiring all the work and parts that have gone into this. Kudos to you @nojeebs!!

Also my cat’s name is Geebs, pronounced Jeebs.

Thank you! NoJeebS handle came from when I made a Nasioc account back in 2004 and my nickname at the time was JeebS (JS are my initials ). JeebS was taken when I wanted to register so I was like....there's no jeebs....oh god typing this out now makes me realize how stupid I was over 20 years ago. I'm looking more and more like a 1st gen product of the internet.

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

I sell feet pics on my OF.

Actually that's a good idea as I usually just throw on mods, tune it and see what it makes and be content. My buddy is giving me access to use his work's dynapac at a discount so I'll see how much to just baseline it.

The valve train upgrades are to help with mid to high range power and slightly increase the redline. I'm hoping for 7800k ~ 8K. It's also for protection and longevity as the springs can handle more abuse if an over rev ever happens. I'm no engineer on cams but I think they mill them to be more aggressive to allow more air and fuel in to make more power. I went with 4 Piston's 2.5 cam as it's still considered streetable anything more race spec would sacrifice drivability for daily use.




Thank you! NoJeebS handle came from when I made a Nasioc account back in 2004 and my nickname at the time was JeebS (JS are my initials ). JeebS was taken when I wanted to register so I was like....there's no jeebs....oh god typing this out now makes me realize how stupid I was over 20 years ago. I'm looking more and more like a 1st gen product of the internet.

Hmm... Maybe I should make an account myself. I certainly could use the extra disposable income.
Not that I should, but I certainly could. "MidLifeFeet", perhaps?

So that's cool that the cam upgrades will give you that rev overhead "peace of mind" while still being street practical.

Man, once this thread is loaded with proven successful aesthetic and performance FL5 mods, Admin may have to upgrade this thread from a build thread to a reference thread.

Then it will be no longer be called "NoJeebS".

This thread will simply be known as:

AskJeebS. ​

 

[optronix]

Actually that's a good idea as I usually just throw on mods, tune it and see what it makes and be content. My buddy is giving me access to use his work's dynapac at a discount so I'll see how much to just baseline it.

The valve train upgrades are to help with mid to high range power and slightly increase the redline. I'm hoping for 7800k ~ 8K. It's also for protection and longevity as the springs can handle more abuse if an over rev ever happens. I'm no engineer on cams but I think they mill them to be more aggressive to allow more air and fuel in to make more power. I went with 4 Piston's 2.5 cam as it's still considered streetable anything more race spec would sacrifice drivability for daily use.

I wonder if there's a market for weird shit like toenail fungus. I'd make a killing if that's the case.

I'm not an expert either but I know a bit. The thing about cams is they control the lift and duration of the valves. The eccentric "lobe" on a higher lift/duration camshaft will be taller and wider than OEM. This pushes the valve open more and leave it open longer- MUCH more air enters/leaves the combustion chamber. As a byproduct, the profile changes the way the engine makes power and thus will make it at a higher rpm. Thus valve springs are required to support the extra revs without damaging the valvetrain. You don't HAVE to do the valve springs... but then you would actually be making LESS power within the same rev range. The cams effectively move the powerband higher, but it will make less power at low revs.

I learned this the hard way by buying a Nismo race cam for my KA24E 240sx. I didn't buy springs so thus left the rev limiter where it was ~6800rpm or whatever. It was MUCH slower lol. But it sounded like a muscle car. Which meant absolutely nothing. That cam was designed for full forged internals at 13:1 compression and ITBs. Even with all that it would have made less than 200 whp by my estimation... but would have been cool?

For turbo vtec the rules may change a bit but that's the gist.

As usual, VERY curious what results you get. I swear you're blazing this trail with these parts that do not appear to be very publicly documented. I love it.

 

[nojeebs]

Got the car back and boy do the mods work together well. Highly recommend doing the powerflex anti lift kit (I did the street version) has a 2 piece bushing (80A outter and 95A inner) Adds a bit more nvh but nothing crazy. This kit also corrects caster.

Spoon zero bump steer kit clears 18s np. I'll measure clearance when I get home later today and update the post.

UPDATE w/ photo:

It's about 3/4 an inch of space left on 1pc 18s. I think 3pc 18s will be fine as well.

First thing I noticed was that it felt very responsive on turn in and with even less body roll. Getting on the gas at lower gears feels more solid as well with less lift. So the powerflex kit is definitely working as intended haha.

Don't skip these mods if you are on, or intend to go with coilovers. Yeah bold, it's that good/important. 🪦

Engine bay pic for attention