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Do you need to replace rear rotors with pads

cyirush

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15k miles on my ‘25 CTR and my rear pads are in the yellow according to the dealer at the last service.

They quoted me $665 to replace them! Not sure if this included rotors.

Asked another dealer and they said you always have to replace rear rotors because they can’t be turned. They quoted me ~$1300!

Do the rotors need to be replaced? See posts on here with owners replacing pads and not rotors.

Ps the car is a daily. Done one or two short canyon drives in 15k miles. PS4s have lots of tread left. Can’t imagine I’m triggering the brake vectoring in comfort mode on the school run!
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alSpeed2k

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With your mileage, you should be fine. I'm at 12k miles and I drive my car a lot harder (on track, with track pads) and I'm still on the original rear rotors. Although, I wouldn't blindly change or not change the rotors. I do keep an eye on my rotor wear and measure with a caliper though. I'd get a quote from an indie shop to see how much they would charge (and ask them to inspect your rotors as well).
 

ThunderPigeon

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Honda rear pads are stupid expensive, like $175-$200. You can get brembo branded version which is the exact same product for $60 from advanced. I would find a trusted mechanic and not use the stealership.
 

AZCWTypeR

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I replace rotors if under thickness, or if badly scored.
Twenty years ago a dealer quoted $750 for front brakes on my 04 TL 6MT. I mic'd the rotors. They measured fine and surfaces were smooth. Name brand pads were $25 at my auto parts store and only took minutes to change (Brembo's are easy).
 


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cyirush

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Thanks everyone for the replies.

So bottom line is if the rotors are within spec they don’t need to be replaced. But do they need to be turned? One of the dealerships said they can’t be.

There’s a good independent shop near me that will just replace the pads (with upgraded ones).
 

Nothing

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The problem with newer cars rotors is the thickness range is so narrow. They probably last longer with modern formulations, but thats the reason I've been told.

I replaced my rear pads at 20k mi, and I measured with basic calipers (vs mic) and read 10.6 and 10.7mm, where the spec is 9-11mm. Don't take a sales guys word, measure it.

If you have lots of weather, brake harder, or use more aggressive pads the rotors will wear faster. If you have significant grooves or feel judder you should replace it. Rear rotor cost I think isn't too bad if you shop around on dream shop. You can try rock auto if you like, stick with blanks unless you know you want otherwise.
 
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cyirush

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The problem with newer cars rotors is the thickness range is so narrow. They probably last longer with modern formulations, but thats the reason I've been told.

I replaced my rear pads at 20k mi, and I measured with basic calipers (vs mic) and read 10.6 and 10.7mm, where the spec is 9-11mm. Don't take a sales guys word, measure it.

If you have lots of weather, brake harder, or use more aggressive pads the rotors will wear faster. If you have significant grooves or feel judder you should replace it. Rear rotor cost I think isn't too bad if you shop around on dream shop. You can try rock auto if you like, stick with blanks unless you know you want otherwise.
Thanks, that’s helpful. Did you turn the rotors or just put on new pads (assume the latter as the rotors were in spec)?
 

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Thanks, that’s helpful. Did you turn the rotors or just put on new pads (assume the latter as the rotors were in spec)?
I did not turn the rotors. I also switched my pads to akebono for less dust since I daily and will be putting on new wheels soon. I flushed the brake fluid since it was time and bedded the new pads, and it's worked just fine. Was the rotor surface perfectly flat? No. There wasn't any significant grooves, just a very slight ripple across the radius you could feel with a finger. Maybe it'll wear a little faster, maybe not, but it's also nothing I could hear or feel in braking. I also have not needed to turn rotors on any other (normal) car, and those got maybe 100-150k on one set. I have replaced rotors.

Maybe if there was more grooves or rippling with high life left I could consider it. I have no idea how much turning costs, but I do my own brakes so I can imagine it's more than new rear rotors.

Front rotors also had even less wear.
 
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J_D

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Thanks everyone for the replies.

So bottom line is if the rotors are within spec they don’t need to be replaced. But do they need to be turned? One of the dealerships said they can’t be.

There’s a good independent shop near me that will just replace the pads (with upgraded ones).
Don't do anything. If there is no vibration and they are within spec (>9mm) just throw another set of pads on it,
 

TypeRD

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I may be wrong, but I believe if you press the VSA button (regardless of drive mode : Comfort, Sport, +R, or Individual) this may lessen the active rear brake vectoring and thus save your rear brakes a bit ; Good for just basic commuting if that’s the case.
 

alSpeed2k

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Doesn't seem like turning rotors is very common anymore.
 
 







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