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Rhorn

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Yeah they mentioned it fleetingly. But then Jakub said - "The Honda engineer asked me to send him an email and he'll explain how to do it. But I never did." 😂
The Topher explained how to do that in a video he put out yesterday on his instagram.
Wait wtf? Savageese and Throttle House said that the only way you can turn off everything off is in +R mode. That's a direct contradiction, so who is correct?
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TimeRacer

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Wait wtf? Savageese and Throttle House said that the only way you can turn off everything off is in +R mode. That's a direct contradiction, so who is correct?
Forget if Savageese said it in the review or in one of his posts here but described as the "pedal dance" which unless you know what they're referring to, would pass over without a second thought. Many cars have a defeat for certain systems generally put in place for testing with a input series that no normal person would ever activate without knowing the sequence. Hop over to Topher's IG and he outlines what goes into it. Allows for, seemingly, full traction control assistance defeat in all modes.
 

Toprarnen

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Forget if Savageese said it in the review or in one of his posts here but described as the "pedal dance" which unless you know what they're referring to, would pass over without a second thought. Many cars have a defeat for certain systems generally put in place for testing with a input series that no normal person would ever activate without knowing the sequence. Hop over to Topher's IG and he outlines what goes into it. Allows for, seemingly, full traction control assistance defeat in all modes.
Cheat codes!
 

TimeRacer

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I'd probably go Olins or Bilstein dampers. Good damping shouldn't upset the chassis
Incorrect. Over dampening is exactly what causes the attributes you see in +R mode. It's why matching the spring rate to the dampening rate is one of the most important things to match for ride quality. You can get away with over dampening (or under) to some degree but there are consequences to doing it that way as ultimately you aren't controlling body roll and camber change by supporting the vehicle weight, just slowing it down if over dampening.
 
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Boostlag

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Incorrect. Over dampening is exactly what causes the attributes you see in +R mode. It's why matching the spring rate to the dampening rate is one of the most important things to match for ride quality. You can get away with over dampening (or under) to some degree but there are consequences to doing it that way as ultimately you aren't controlling body roll and camber change by supporting the vehicle weight, just slowing it down if over dampening.
Overdamped = bad tuning
 


TimeRacer

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Overdamped = bad tuning
If that were the case that would mean adjustable dampers wouldn't be a thing. You'd only have optimal or your "bad tuning." Expand a little bit from your narrow concepts.
 

Boostlag

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If that were the case that would mean adjustable dampers wouldn't be a thing. You'd only have optimal or your "bad tuning." Expand a little bit from your narrow concepts.
Im guessing limitation of having soft springs and making it corner flat by over compensating with stiff damping. You can only do so much with cheaper adjustable dampers like in the Golf R and CTR. Thats why at this price they could've gave us magnetic active dampers which can go stiff but also soaks up bumps which gives the driver so much more confidence.
The C6 Z06 was a spooky car to drive at the limit becuase it lacks feel and its leafspring suspension, the magnetic dampers completely changed the way thr car felt at the limit.
 
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TimeRacer

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Im guessing limitation of having soft springs and making it corner flat by over compensating with stiff damping. You can only do so much with cheaper adjustable dampers like in the Golf R and CTR. Thats why at this price they could've gave us magnetic active dampers which can go stiff but also soaks up bumps which gives the driver so much more confidence.
The C6 Z06 was a spooky car to drive at the limit becuase it lacks feel and its leafspring suspension, the magnetic dampers completely changed the way thr car felt at the limit.
It's not even about the 'cheaper' adjustable dampers. Magnetic dampers aren't magic, just faster ability to adjust. C5 Z06 (my reference to Corvettes that I've driven) simply moving away from leaf springs in general made a huge difference. But actually listen to what the engineers are saying about the car and where it was designed. The dampening rates for +R mode are derived on a F1 track which has different dampening and spring requirements that a bumpier track would have and they're working within the confines of the same springs as the FK8 for cost concerns and comfort ride quality considerations. My response was simply slapping on some German (or Japanese for that matter) aftermarket dampers isn't going to alleviate the problem like you alluded as the problem isn't the dampers themselves but more what they're trying to make up for on the track relative to the softer daily driver spring rate they're paired with exacerbated by the grip levels of the Cup2 tires for the track cars.
 
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Geezer

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What would be interesting to see is the 100-200kmh (or 60-120mph) times for both the FK8 and FL5 compared to a Golf R or Focus RS.
X a billion

All these FL5 owners can afford a 20k markup but can't afford a $150 dragy sigh.

FK8 pretty well documented to do 13/14 sec 100-200 and 15/16 sec 60-130 stock.
 
 




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