Audio Update, Bad News

[ThirtyHz]

Hey guys,
I did some probing with my oscilloscope today and came to a saddening realization. The headunit outputs audio to the factory Bose amp via a coaxial digital signal. There is CURRENTLY no way to tie into the system using a DSP pre-amp. So until iDatalink releases an interface (if at all) it looks like we are stuck with a high-low conversion. Although not the best case scenario, I can work with it. Since the back doors are receiving a full range signal and the tweeter in the back doors just uses a cap as a filter, I can pull full range from there for a 4 channel. For my sub amp, I will have to use the high level sub out from the Bose amp since the rear door's low frequency signal is nearly non existent. At volume 20/40 on the back doors, I measured 0.07 volts at 30 Hz and 0.15 volts at 40 Hz. Whereas the sub is receiving far more voltage. So for my low end, I'll definitely be pulling my signal from the factory sub, albeit, with mass amounts of EQ work to be done considering the aggressive existing high pass filter on it. I will post updates once I get my lithium installed, delete the factory battery and install my sub amp. The 4 channel amp will be a future endeavor, alongside new door speakers.

OH an FYI... the "Bose" system in the tourings and Si's... they are Honda OEM woofers and tweeters, just on a Bose amp with some EQ. It's a joke, so upgrades are worth the time and effort.

If anyone is curious, I will be feeding all high level outputs from the Bose amp into my Dayton Audio DSP. The system is low enough wattage for it to work a charm.

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[DmoneyDeckwa]

Hey guys,
I did some probing with my oscilloscope today and came to a saddening realization. The headunit outputs audio to the factory Bose amp via a coaxial digital signal. There is CURRENTLY no way to tie into the system using a DSP pre-amp. So until iDatalink releases an interface (if at all) it looks like we are stuck with a high-low conversion. Although not the best case scenario, I can work with it. Since the back doors are receiving a full range signal and the tweeter in the back doors just uses a cap as a filter, I can pull full range from there for a 4 channel. For my sub amp, I will have to use the high level sub out from the Bose amp since the rear door's low frequency signal is nearly non existent. At volume 20/40 on the back doors, I measured 0.07 volts at 30 Hz and 0.15 volts at 40 Hz. Whereas the sub is receiving far more voltage. So for my low end, I'll definitely be pulling my signal from the factory sub, albeit, with mass amounts of EQ work to be done considering the aggressive existing high pass filter on it. I will post updates once I get my lithium installed, delete the factory battery and install my sub amp. The 4 channel amp will be a future endeavor, alongside new door speakers.

OH an FYI... the "Bose" system in the tourings and Si's... they are Honda OEM woofers and tweeters, just on a Bose amp with some EQ. It's a joke, so upgrades are worth the time and effort.

If anyone is curious, I will be feeding all high level outputs from the Bose amp into my Dayton Audio DSP. The system is low enough wattage for it to work a charm.

i have a 1000 watt amp and 2 10" subs. i was gonna instantly switch it over to the si when it comes in. But..... it sounds like its gonna be a headache.

 

[CeeBee]

Where did you get the info on what the speakers are? Are there Honda part numbers on them or something? Coming from my 10th Gen Accord Sport and into my ST with the Bose system it's a world of difference to my ears.

 

[ThirtyHz]

Where did you get the info on what the speakers are? Are there Honda part numbers on them or something? Coming from my 10th Gen Accord Sport and into my ST with the Bose system it's a world of difference to my ears.

I pulled door panels and took the speakers out and looked at them..

 

[sgtmorph]

I’m not surprised Honda cheaped-out like that powering honda speakers with a Bose amp classic

 

[ThirtyHz]

I mean it’s not a horrible concept. Having half decent amplification and a good source does make stock speakers sound better. But definitely not my jam. I’ll be taking out all the speakers and running my own stuff

 

[Kostas_2]

There is CURRENTLY no way to tie into the system using a DSP pre-amp

If the digital signal is SPDIF (like the 10th gen), then you can feed it to a DSP like some of us have done with the X gen.

 

[ThirtyHz]

If the digital signal is SPDIF (like the 10th gen), then you can feed it to a DSP like some of us have done with the X gen.

hmmmm. now you have me interested. I'll have to look into that

 

[squish72]

You've peaked my interest

 

[ThirtyHz]

Old Update:
The Si does feed its factory Bose amp with SPDIF. I learned this a while back and was using an AudioControl LC7i and Dayton DSP-408 using high level in from the rear doors and sub. Since then I got rid of both units after having more issues with the Dayton 408. I moved to an AudioControl DM-608 and it has been amazing. I’ve been able to flatten my summed signal and will be EQ’ing my system using the UMIK-1 from MiniDSP with REW. So far everything sounds great and I’m excited to see the improvements from actually measuring each channel and EQ’ing them. Aside from tuning for an “SQ” oriented setup, I’m also tweaking sub enclosures for Meca comp and DB drag comp. Should be fun. As of now in a “daily tuned” sub enclosure, I scored a 142+ on the glass and 144+ in the kick.

 

[Kostas_2]

Old Update:
The Si does feed its factory Bose amp with SPDIF. I learned this a while back and was using an AudioControl LC7i and Dayton DSP-408 using high level in from the rear doors and sub. Since then I got rid of both units after having more issues with the Dayton 408. I moved to an AudioControl DM-608 and it has been amazing. I’ve been able to flatten my summed signal and will be EQ’ing my system using the UMIK-1 from MiniDSP with REW. So far everything sounds great and I’m excited to see the improvements from actually measuring each channel and EQ’ing them. Aside from tuning for an “SQ” oriented setup, I’m also tweaking sub enclosures for Meca comp and DB drag comp. Should be fun. As of now in a “daily tuned” sub enclosure, I scored a 142+ on the glass and 144+ in the kick.

This SPDIF has fixed volume (like in 10th gen) or it's variable via the volume knob??

 

[psyborg]

Hey guys,
I did some probing with my oscilloscope today and came to a saddening realization. The headunit outputs audio to the factory Bose amp via a coaxial digital signal. There is CURRENTLY no way to tie into the system using a DSP pre-amp. So until iDatalink releases an interface (if at all) it looks like we are stuck with a high-low conversion. Although not the best case scenario, I can work with it. Since the back doors are receiving a full range signal and the tweeter in the back doors just uses a cap as a filter, I can pull full range from there for a 4 channel. For my sub amp, I will have to use the high level sub out from the Bose amp since the rear door's low frequency signal is nearly non existent. At volume 20/40 on the back doors, I measured 0.07 volts at 30 Hz and 0.15 volts at 40 Hz. Whereas the sub is receiving far more voltage. So for my low end, I'll definitely be pulling my signal from the factory sub, albeit, with mass amounts of EQ work to be done considering the aggressive existing high pass filter on it. I will post updates once I get my lithium installed, delete the factory battery and install my sub amp. The 4 channel amp will be a future endeavor, alongside new door speakers.

OH an FYI... the "Bose" system in the tourings and Si's... they are Honda OEM woofers and tweeters, just on a Bose amp with some EQ. It's a joke, so upgrades are worth the time and effort.

If anyone is curious, I will be feeding all high level outputs from the Bose amp into my Dayton Audio DSP. The system is low enough wattage for it to work a charm.

Old Update:
The Si does feed its factory Bose amp with SPDIF. I learned this a while back and was using an AudioControl LC7i and Dayton DSP-408 using high level in from the rear doors and sub. Since then I got rid of both units after having more issues with the Dayton 408. I moved to an AudioControl DM-608 and it has been amazing. I’ve been able to flatten my summed signal and will be EQ’ing my system using the UMIK-1 from MiniDSP with REW. So far everything sounds great and I’m excited to see the improvements from actually measuring each channel and EQ’ing them. Aside from tuning for an “SQ” oriented setup, I’m also tweaking sub enclosures for Meca comp and DB drag comp. Should be fun. As of now in a “daily tuned” sub enclosure, I scored a 142+ on the glass and 144+ in the kick.

This is fantastic info. What amps did you go with? Where did you end up mounting them? I'm getting ready to do mine and I'd love any info you can give

 

[psyborg]

Bump @ThirtyHz please

 

[ThirtyHz]

This is fantastic info. What amps did you go with? Where did you end up mounting them? I'm getting ready to do mine and I'd love any info you can give

Hey buddy, sorry been off the forums a bit. My current amplifier setup consists of a Sundown Audio SIA-3500 for the sub stage, and a Rockford Fosgate Prime 75x4 fully active. The Sundown Amplifier is hidden beneath the trunk false floor in a spot I carved out of the foam and applied a mounting board to. Looking down at the trunk of the Si, the amp is furthest forward toward the front of the car and the lithium battery bank is in the large factory cutout beside the air pump/fix a flat kit. The 4 channel amplifier is located beneath the front passenger seat on its own board that I used riv-nuts to physically secure to the floor of the vehicle. My DSP is mounted in the trunk space, upside down under the rear deck, secured to a board and attached to the vehicle by… you guessed it… riv-nuts. Let me know any other questions you have. I have a few days off work and should be available to reply.

 

[psyborg]

This is fantastic, thanks! That's an insane amp! What subs do you have for 3.5KW? I'm curious about your speakers. I went with a 10" JL sub and some Blam! 165P speakers in my 10th gen and they do alright without a DSP/Amp but I'm looking for a serious upgrade when I go to the 11th gen.

Does that Sundown get hot inside the foam? Any issues with heat back there?

QQ about the center speaker; is it balanced or is it just for the system sounds, voice control, etc? Did you bother replacing it?

*edit*

If I were looking for something other than the DM-608 -- is it using the optical spdif or the coax cable?

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