BuntaTypeR Boost Blue Build

[BuntaTypeR]

more pics from last track session.

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[BuntaTypeR]

Why get a different LSD? And damn I love your dedication lol

I'm not sure if the extra power will perform well with the current setup. I know a clutch type LSD is better, but it also requires opening up the transmission after a certain number of miles. On top of that, the JRZ RS Pro coilovers have a 20k-mile rebuild interval. Removing the coilovers is cheaper and easier than removing the LSD. Plus, a clutch LSD can be noisy, and I prefer the car to be as quiet as possible. Maybe I'm just getting too old to deal with a loud car.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

⁸

Finally installed AP racing bbk with ferodo ds1.11 brake pads. I needed wheel spacer for it to fit!
Also, installed paragon rear rotors.

Note: I've noticed that the Paragon P2 rear brake pads have the same thickness as my new R5 brake pads, even after 3-4 track days of use. During three of those days, the VSA was active. This indicates that the Paragon P2 rear pads are holding up well and aren't deteriorating quickly. In contrast, the rear stock brake pads showed uneven wear, which I believe is influenced by the Wunderladen Racing rear brake caliper bushings. It also seems that aftermarket pads generally wear more evenly compared to the stock pads.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

More video and pics from the track.

Chasing the corvette:

 

[BuntaTypeR]

I replaced the stock wheel studs because they were too short to work with a 10mm wheel spacer required for the AP Racing BBK to fit. The stock studs only allowed the lug nuts to engage five full turns, whereas the longer ARP wheel studs enabled 10 full turns, fully engaging the threads. The car feels like it has more grip now. While the stock studs held up for one track day, the ARP upgrade offers greater security and enhanced performance.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

 

[simpleisbest]

Any details on how you routed the hoses in the rear?

 

[BuntaTypeR]

Any details on how you routed the hoses in the rear?

are you talking about the JRZ?

 

[simpleisbest]

are you talking about the JRZ?

Sorry! Yup, I am referring to the hose routing of the rear JRZ shock compression canisters into the trunk interior. Did you need to drill a through hole?

 

[BuntaTypeR]

Sorry! Yup, I am referring to the hose routing of the rear JRZ shock compression canisters into the trunk interior. Did you need to drill a through hole?

Took the car to Chewerks and had a pro handle the install. I’ve installed coilovers before, but the JRZs require nitrogen charging, so I left it to Rob. I didn’t ask about the details of the setup since I plan to go back to him when it's time for a rebuild. I’ll also be returning for proper alignment and corner balancing.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

I went to the SoCal Drivers Club event at Buttonwillow—open sessions all day with a 40-car cap. Highly recommend it!
Here are some pictures.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

More goods arrived

More to come.

 

[drpleiades]

Awesome build, I just picked up my FL5 and hoping to track it as well. I used to track a ton 1-2x a month but that was back on Motorcycle days. I've only been on track in a car twice so new to this world. Plenty of times on SOW not many on Big Willow wasn't a fan on a bike and I loved Buttonwillow. Hopefully I'll see ya out there and ask for some tips for a Car track newb haha

 

[BuntaTypeR]

Finally got time to install this. Still waiting for my Hondata injectors, back order end of May.

 

[BuntaTypeR]

Finally, Tuned My FL5 , E40 Setup at JSR Engines (Track-Safe Conservative Build)

Just wanted to share my tuning experience for the FL5. I brought the car to JSR Engines and dropped it off at 11 a.m. for a full day of install and tuning. I asked for multiple maps:

1. Daily driving map

2. Track map

3. Conservative high power map for roll racing

They delivered exactly what I needed.

There were a few hiccups during the process. For one, they advised against using my AEM 340LPH E85 compatible high flow in tank fuel pump, and instead recommended the DW300c, which I ended up going with based on their experience. We also had a software issue enabling the Full Race high pressure fuel pump for the Civic Type R, looks like it had been previously used, which forced me to buy a replacement key during the tuning session. That added some unexpected cost. I’ll probably reach out to Full Race about the code that ended up costing me extra $$$.

They finished everything by around 9 p.m., which didn’t surprise me given the amount of work involved, plus it was a scorching 100°F day.

I’m still running the stock clutch for now, but I plan to upgrade to an OS Giken clutch and LSD next year.

Despite the setbacks, I’m really happy with the final result. The tune is on the conservative side to ensure reliability on track, which is my priority.

Build Components Installed:

1. Hondata Flex Fuel Kit
2. Hondata Fuel System Upgrade 1530cc Injectors
3. Full Race Civic Type R High Pressure Fuel Pump
4. MHI Stage 2 OEM Turbo Upgrade
5. New ngk sparkplugs ruthynium hx
6. AEM 340LPH E85 Compatible High Flow In Tank Fuel Pump (replaced with DW300c per tuner recommendation)
7. Dyno and Pro tune on E40 blend

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