Championship White FL5 #943 Build

[Jester04]

Engine bay coming together, waiting a few more parts.

APR carbon side shrouds installed

Valve cover and Chasing J's titanium hardware

Downstar titanium bolts

@Two Step Performance black cerakote dp, PTP black lava blankets, and Rampage anodized titanium studs (with a broken stud that was a PITA to extract)

PWR / C&R radiator (sorry for the POS tape)

@ACUITY shifter cable bushings

Very very clean my friend!

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[albi]

Can you share the Honda part number for the cf door sill?

You got it, 08F05-T60-600. Unfortunately, been waiting since March, but Tegiwa now has the full set of cf options on their website. Not sure if they are on hand and ready to ship, but probably easiest to order all from the same place. Dream has most of the cf now as well.

 

[albi]

Very very clean my friend!

TY!

 

[albi]

Hybrid Racing short shifter and competition rod:
Outside of the retaining clips for the shifter cables, installation is pretty straight forward. Currently set to their recommended settings (15% decrease in L-R and 25% decrease in F-B) but will test out the higher option in the coming weeks (30% decrease in L-R and 50% decrease in F-B) to see most preferred option. It does come with a threaded option if you want to run a normal shift knob and you can also retain the shift boot if you want. The competition rod is not threaded so a shift boot collar will not work.

Antigravity ATX30-HD battery, Mele Designs battery box, and DEI battery insulation:
Had issues with the ATX30-RS not having the amperage hours for longer drives and overheating in Texas heat. Upgraded to ATX30-HD and paired with the DEI battery insulation and have had no issues since.

 

[albi]

Customized @PRL Motorsports titanium inlet to fit the engine bay better

Before:

After:

 

[albi]

Carbon vented fenders completed just in time for Spocom Texas 2023 (Hondas - 2nd Place):

 

[albi]

Replaced the Garage Unique lip with Varis. More drivability with the different design (the GU lip is chewed up on bottom from being so low on DFW roads). Waiting on Racebred to finish the chassis brackets for a splitter.

 

[albi]

CE28N-Plus 18x9.5 +38 in shining bronze & powder coated center caps on MPS4S 275/35/18.
Like it sooooo much better than the TE's I was running.

 

[albi]

Eventuri intake installed.

 

[RUNN1N]

Do you have an underglow kit on the car? I keep telling myself I'm done with lighting projects... but maybe I'm only done with interior lighting projects.

 

[albi]

Do you have an underglow kit on the car? I keep telling myself I'm done with lighting projects... but maybe I'm only done with interior lighting projects.

LOL. Yes, I only run it at shows though. Judges like to see that kind of stuff and it gets extra points.

 

[RUNN1N]

LOL. Yes, I only run it at shows though. Judges like to see that kind of stuff and it gets extra points.

Oh for sure--I know what restraint is. I'd only run it like... every time I got the car out of the garage.

 

[albi]

Oh for sure--I know what restraint is. I'd only run it like... every time I got the car out of the garage.

Just an fyi.

It can be a pita sometimes, bc the adhesive doesn't love to stick to indentations (i.e. the rear diffuser) especially after they get wet. It's not bad, but there are spots that will hang down ever so slightly below the concealer strip. I'm ocd, so it bothers me a lot .

 

[albi]

EVS Tuning roll cage install

Pre install mockup:

If you cut the hatch liner just perfect, you can get a seamless look like OEM. Will still mount directly to the frame and the edge of the hatch liner is just on the edge of the cross section. There is no option to keep the rear seat back. You can re-install the bottom after install though should you choose.

The frame is not 100% square. Some of the welds are not the best which I believe to be the root cause of the issue. Tried and tried to align perfectly, but when making the floor mounts square, the top goes out of alignment.
Driver side rear:

Passenger side rear:

I didn't want to cut a large square hole for the mounts, so I decided to attempt to cut a line down the carpet to fit around the cage tubing and get it as close as possible. Decided the center of the three options would look best when the doors are closed.
Cutting plan:

Cut:

Used a 1.5" iron pipe size split flange to fit around the cage tubing to hide any imperfections in the carpet from cutting (1.5" IPS = 1.9" true inner diameter and cage is 1.75". This was the closest I could get.). Painted matte black as preference and contrast to the red interior, white cage, and polished hardware.

If you are really looking for the cut seams, you can see them. But with the doors close you have to stick your head in the car window and look directly down to notice. Cross view with the doors closed, not as noticeable.
Door open:

Door closed:

Finished off with EVS carbon seat delete, H3R extinguishers and cage mounts, and Schroth anti submarining harnesses. Schroth has interchangeable cam locks and the option to add a dual sub strap should I go with an aftermarket seat later. For now, I love these seats too much to want to change.

 

[Cornercarver]

Great pics, very inspiring and very clean install.

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