CTR stolen and recovered!

[cyirush]

Unfortunately my Boost Blue ‘25 CTR was stolen last night in Long Beach.

Plate is 9USW261.

Posting on the off chance that someone sees the car.

It’s bone stock, no mods.

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[Chilly613]

Damn, that sucks. Definitely will keep an eye out, when I'm out and about.

 

[I♥️LCY]

This is unsettling, sorry for your loss man. Hope it's found quickly and in the same shape you left it in. Tracking capabilities is just not enough of a deterrent these days. How can we safeguard GPS via hondalink? feel free to DM me and discuss, I'm curious to learn.

 

[cyirush]

Update - it’s been found in Compton (yes, that Compton). Not sure of the condition yet.

 

[zumbooruk]

This is unsettling, sorry for your loss man. Hope it's found quickly and in the same shape you left it in. Tracking capabilities is just not enough of a deterrent these days. How can we safeguard GPS via hondalink? feel free to DM me and discuss, I'm curios to learn.

I did a lot of reading and research.

GPS and cellular frequencies are easily jammed by cheap jammers

A tilt sensor might alert you before loading onto a flatbed or tow truck, assuming they have not yet jammed the frequencies

I believe that the best way to track are several Air Tags. some well hidden with speakers cut out. one not so well hidden with speaker intact.

Mutli-layer defense to prevent drive-away in the first place

For me, I installed Ravelco anti-theft system, since I did not like Igla (multiple reasons). though most people like the Igla. Igla is indeed one of the best if not the best system out there.

I also have a physical OBD port lock that latches onto the port

I am considering interrupting the OBD diagnostic pair (CAN-H and CAN-L pins 6 and 14), hidden switch powered by an add-a-circuit tap, that will energize a signal relay (such as G6K-2P-DC12) that will close these two lines. yet it will not prevent other CAN injection attacks. and probably beyond my electronics skills...

Other DIY methods include a hidden switch inline with the clutch pedal interlock, and similar hidden switch for the starter (STRQ start-signal interrupt)

You might also want to consider a steering wheel to brake pedal lock. or this (out of stock for now)

https://autolock.com/products/autolock-pro-model-1640

 

[FL5HondaGuy]

As if you needed another reason to leave California.

 

[ThunderPigeon]

Removing the TCU which has the network link and GPS module that Honda Link uses to locate your vehicle is one of the first things they do and only takes 15 seconds. You really can't rely on Honda Link.

 

[Franz6]

I did a lot of reading and research.

GPS and cellular frequencies are easily jammed by cheap jammers

A tilt sensor might alert you before loading onto a flatbed or tow truck, assuming they have not yet jammed the frequencies

I believe that the best way to track are several Air Tags. some well hidden with speakers cut out. one not so well hidden with speaker intact.

Mutli-layer defense to prevent drive-away in the first place

For me, I installed Ravelco anti-theft system, since I did not like Igla (multiple reasons). though most people like the Igla. Igla is indeed one of the best if not the best system out there.

I also have a physical OBD port lock that latches onto the port

I am considering interrupting the OBD diagnostic pair (CAN-H and CAN-L pins 6 and 14), hidden switch powered by an add-a-circuit tap, that will energize a signal relay (such as G6K-2P-DC12) that will close these two lines. yet it will not prevent other CAN injection attacks. and probably beyond my electronics skills...

Other DIY methods include a hidden switch inline with the clutch pedal interlock, and similar hidden switch for the starter (STRQ start-signal interrupt)

You might also want to consider a steering wheel to brake pedal lock. or this (out of stock for now)

https://autolock.com/products/autolock-pro-model-1640

I just had my FL5 stolen about 3 weeks ago and the cops found it about a week later with virtually no issues (driver side lock jacked up, minor scuff on the fender). multi-layer is the way to go and the Revelco guy is installing it as i type this.

 

[cyirush]

I just had my FL5 stolen about 3 weeks ago and the cops found it about a week later with virtually no issues (driver side lock jacked up, minor scuff on the fender). multi-layer is the way to go and the Revelco guy is installing it as i type this.

Did you get a mechanical inspection (engine/clutch/shifter)? Did it drive ok. I’m assuming mine wax ragged on.

 

[zumbooruk]

Removing the TCU which has the network link and GPS module that Honda Link uses to locate your vehicle is one of the first things they do and only takes 15 seconds. You really can't rely on Honda Link.

Well, I removed the spy module myself.

Don't want Honda spying on me.

Anyway, they do not need to remove it.

All they have to do is plug in a $100 GPS/Cellular signal jammer into the cigarette lighter socket. poof, no signal...

 

[blueroadster]

Removing the TCU which has the network link and GPS module that Honda Link uses to locate your vehicle is one of the first things they do and only takes 15 seconds. You really can't rely on Honda Link.

Point to mention regarding Connected Services: All manufacturers sell creature comforts to make you think the vehicle you bought from them is safe from a communications security standpoint. In reality, they don't give a rats ass about you or the vehicle you bought from them thanks to data brokers, government regulations, other interested third parties, etc. The manufacturer looks at the transaction as an additional profit point to sell your data for pennies to third parties while also encouraging you to become a monthly subscriber for a better feel good. Many manufacturers also punish the buyer if they do not become subscribers after the free trial period by disabling certain creature comforts that were initially expected.

Example: I ran into a recent issue where I needed to call Honda to locate one of my 2026 Honda vehicles that still had the TCU installed. I do not use the Hondalink app so the initial vehicle pairing process was never completed. After calling Honda, they claimed that they do not have the ability to locate the vehicle and suggested that I use the Hondalink app. I then downloaded the app and tried to configure it however, it requires close proximity to the vehicle itself in order to complete the setup process.

I then called Honda back to inquire about other options to locate the vehicle. They responded by saying that Hondalink is the only option and no support could be provided to complete the application setup process if I do not have close proximity to the vehicle itself.

That is complete and total BS. Honda, like all other manufacturers, embed a cellular modem in the TCU that constantly beacons/communicates every 3-5 seconds back to the mothership spilling every bit of detail about the vehicle and its status. Essentially, connected vehicles are designed to share everything to the cloud-based mothership whereas the app on your phone only limits what you can actually see.

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