DIY: FL5 Lowering Spring Install for Civic Type R [Step By Step]

[juguuu]

Just to kind of revive this thread, I am not experiencing a smooth install like OP or others.

I got one strut out while the other is just kind of wedged in by the Sway bar, even after taking off both the sway end links, and axel which I have decided to back the bolt out just enough to get some play so I don't pop it. I am still dealing with the sway bar bottoming out and it's pushing up against the knuckle. I don't want to take off the subframe in order to loosen it. I am also 2-3mm away from separating them and taking all the breaks in the world. This is not easy for everyone and every car is different. I will edit when I have freedom of the strut lol

edit: got the strut out but unfortunately ended up popping out the cv axle if anyone wants to chime in. It's popped out where the CV and the Transmission meet was able to pop it back in.

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[TJ83]

Just to kind of revive this thread, I am not experiencing a smooth install like OP or others.

I got one strut out while the other is just kind of wedged in by the Sway bar, even after taking off both the sway end links, and axel which I have decided to back the bolt out just enough to get some play so I don't pop it. I am still dealing with the sway bar bottoming out and it's pushing up against the knuckle. I don't want to take off the subframe in order to loosen it. I am also 2-3mm away from separating them and taking all the breaks in the world. This is not easy for everyone and every car is different. I will edit when I have freedom of the strut lol

edit: got the strut out but unfortunately ended up popping out the cv axle if anyone wants to chime in. It's popped out where the CV and the Transmission meet was able to pop it back in.

This happened to me today, started on drivers side and I had the drive axle pop out, I can't figure out how to get enough space to mount the shock back in the knuckle without popping the drive axle out

 

[juguuu]

This happened to me today, started on drivers side and I had the drive axle pop out, I can't figure out how to get enough space to mount the shock back in the knuckle without popping the drive axle out

Have somebody push down the endlink so that the sway bar bottoms out. If you don't want to take off the axle at that point in time you will have a lot of trouble getting it all back and aligned in. You can have somebody align the axle while you guide them together but it's a lot easier with the axle off the hub. Just be sure to check if the axle seal ripped or damaged because it WILL leak. Mine didn't leak I got super lucky that mine didn't get damaged.

 

[TJ83]

Have somebody push down the endlink so that the sway bar bottoms out. If you don't want to take off the axle at that point in time you will have a lot of trouble getting it all back and aligned in. You can have somebody align the axle while you guide them together but it's a lot easier with the axle off the hub. Just be sure to check if the axle seal ripped or damaged because it WILL leak. Mine didn't leak I got super lucky that mine didn't get damaged.

Ibeas able to get it all installed but it looks like my seal leaking so ill have to order one and change it out. Might as well do the Trans fluid while I'm at it I'm on an island with one Honda dealer and they don't have the seal in stock.

 

[WhoCares]

I agree with TJ83. I had a very similar experience as yours. Also agree this is not a easy as some have described or maybe they got lucky. Passenger side was a 2-3 hour wrestling match, the driver side the strut came out easy but trying to put it back in the cv axel popped out. Monday having it towed to dealer to get it sorted out. I am guessing going to be a expensive mistake. The good is Pensacola, FL Honda dealer does have the seal in stock it is like $27 but the towing & labor to disassemble & reassemble not going to be cheap. Good luck with your project.

 

[nodnarb901]

When I got my Eibach pro-kit I was going to install them myself as I have installed plenty of lowering springs myself in the past. I,m now a service manager for a car dealership and asked one of my techs what he would charge to install them/do an alignment. He gave me a fair price so I had him install them so I didn't have to mess with it. Those front springs kicked his @$$.
If I tried to install them I never would have gotten them done.

 

[Fl5.faustino]

I agree with TJ83. I had a very similar experience as yours. Also agree this is not a easy as some have described or maybe they got lucky. Passenger side was a 2-3 hour wrestling match, the driver side the strut came out easy but trying to put it back in the cv axel popped out. Monday having it towed to dealer to get it sorted out. I am guessing going to be a expensive mistake. The good is Pensacola, FL Honda dealer does have the seal in stock it is like $27 but the towing & labor to disassemble & reassemble not going to be cheap. Good luck with your project.

Hello I’m not sure if you’ll respond but how much did you have to pay ? I ended up doing the springs myself and got a tear in boot and kinked the seal, I’m hoping they’ll change the boot aswell

 

[RacingIsLife]

Dropping that socket right away is something I likely would have done d'oh lol

 

[WhoCares]

Hello I’m not sure if you’ll respond but how much did you have to pay ? I ended up doing the springs myself and got a tear in boot and kinked the seal, I’m hoping they’ll change the boot aswell

Good evening, before taking it to the dealer I got the strut back in (with help of a mechanically inclined and 100+lb heavier than me friend) reattached the axle, put everything back & torqued all to factory spec. I didn't even change the seal nothing was leaking. I took the car to Pensacola Honda, explained what happened and asked that they check for tears & leaks and if they felt the seal should be replaced to replace it. The service advisor was very understanding and suggested I not mention that but have them inspect it? He said they inspected the driver side axle from trans to wheel and nothing was leaking or ripped? They did a alignment and total cost was $75 for the alignment. He also said if it is leaking down the line, the warranty should cover it. Long story short worked out okay the service advisor was a nice guy. But the whole installation process was very difficult and time consuming, ( I have installed Eibach springs on 2 Brz's, a Gr86 which were easy) Plus now I have driven it 700 miles not sure it was worth the trouble. Good luck with your project.

 

[realtorhoff]

I had to do that on both my old FK8s. Thats why I was shocked when I was able to get the front shocks out so easily on my FL5. Not sure why you guys arent getting as much play. The only thing I can think of is maybe because my car only had 400ish miles on it when I did the springs.

I did just recently swap out to Swift springs @ 1700ish miles and install went just as easy as it did the first time.

What are your thoughts on the Swift Springs compared to the H&R? I'm running 19x9.5 et 45 with 275/35/19 tires. Really want to lower it and honestly having a very hard time deciding what to do. Everything I read is, "Swift springs are too stiff, Spoon springs look like the rear is lower than the front, H&R isn't low enough and people regret not going lower, and the Eibachs actually lower the front more, so it is a true rake.

Appreciate any advice,

Mike

 

[Rexpelagi]

Just installed H&R springs last Thursday and decided to record and create a DIY for anyone else that is looking to tackle it on their own.

Thanks for this! I followed it and everything worked just as described. I know some people mentioned they had trouble getting the strut out, but my car had 500mi, so that may have helped things separate easier. I did find it easier/faster just to stand on the knuckle to pop it off vs. the prybar, but that might not work for everyone.

 

[BigBird]

Just installed H&R springs last Thursday and decided to record and create a DIY for anyone else that is looking to tackle it on their own.

This was fantastic and easy to follow. Thanks!!

When I swapped out my suspension this weekend, and instead of using prybars or screwdrivers to get the strut out, I tried to use a strut spreader like I had to do on my VWs and it worked fantastic!

It's even easier in the Honda as the strut doesn't have a tab and you don't have to readjust the tool all the time. This is the one I used. https://amzn.to/3B3V8VQ

 

[shimin-gata R]

Just adding a technique to this old thread. Thanks to @bRYANT619 for creating it.
I mention this because he kinda touched on the “wobble it back and forth” technique which is required but hard to get any movement initially.
Once you start prying the knuckle down and get the knuckle down 3/4 inch or so, it will start to put the shock in a bind because the knuckle is moving outward.
Stop prying and push the top of the rotor in with as much force as you can muster. That takes away the binding and the knuckle basically falls off.
Much less prying and struggling to push the knuckle off the shock.

 

[BigBird]

Just adding a technique to this old thread. Thanks to @bRYANT619 for creating it.
I mention this because he kinda touched on the “wobble it back and forth” technique which is required but hard to get any movement initially.
Once you start prying the knuckle down and get the knuckle down 3/4 inch or so, it will start to put the shock in a bind because the knuckle is moving outward.
Stop prying and push the top of the rotor in with as much force as you can muster. That takes away the binding and the knuckle basically falls off.
Much less prying and struggling to push the knuckle off the shock.

Using the strut separator I mentioned makes it even easier

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