30lb weight saving with LiFePO4 battery - is it worth it?

[zumbooruk]

I am researching lightweight LiFePO4 batteries for about 30lb weight savings, or about 0.94% of the FL5 weight, much easier than loosing 30lb myself

I know that I shouldn't replace a perfectly good battery to gain a few thousands of a second in acceleration, improved handling by a few thousands of a g, ever so slightly reduced understeer from less weight upfront, or a tenth of a mile improvement in MPG, but a foot or two in stopping distance might be a worthwhile excuse to get it...

I am leaning towards the Mighty Max 27Ah, 700CCA, 62 minutes reserve capacity, 9lb, cheapest at $230

It is made "overseas", probably China, no app, no built-in jump starting, but lightest and cheapest.

I've used other MightMax sealed lead acid batteries (made in Vietnam) for years, never had any issues

Internet search for MightyMax LiFePO4 car batteries found very few negative reviews for the MightyMax

https://www.mightymaxbattery.com/sh...-47-built-in-bms-lightweight-long-cycle-life/


Others I looked at:

Generic Amazon, about same price as MightyMax, but don't trust the claims, though one stood out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GWCGM6S1


PowerTex 50Ah, 900CCA, 48 min reserve capacity, 9lb, built-in jump start and app, $650

https://powertexbatteries.com/produ...ium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4-automotive-battery


Antigravity 40Ah, 1500CCA, reserve capacity not specified, heaviest at 14lb, remote jump start and app, but $950 is very expensive for what it is (also made in China)

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h5-rs/

Sponsored

 

[Clark_Kent]

If you're going to pursue weight reduction, I'd focus on where the biggest dynamic gains can be found. Lightweight wheels and tires are typically the highest-leverage modifications because you're reducing unsprung and rotational mass simultaneously. That said, a lithium battery is generally one of the few ways to remove 25-30 lbs. from the car without affecting comfort, NVH, or practicality. Since that weight is coming from one of the most forward locations on the chassis, it's certainly not meaningless.

If the car spends most of its life on a battery tender, I'd be less concerned about reserve capacity and more concerned with the quality of the BMS, long-term reliability, and manufacturer support. At ~$230, the Mighty Max is actually a pretty compelling dollar-per-pound weight reduction mod if the product proves reliable. If this car is a daily driver and the reliability of the product is questionable, then this becomes a very different discussion.

 

[Evox787]

If you’re spending around $800 to save 30 lbs on a car that you mostly drive in stop-and-go traffic or maybe just on weekends at the track it might not really make a noticeable difference. I don’t know you personally or how you use your car, but like you said, it might be better (and cheaper) for you to lose 30 lbs yourself than to spend that much for such a small weight saving.

If your car is track-dedicated, then sure go for it! If you have the money to burn, more power to you; it’s your car and your money. I mean this in the most positive way. Owners of these lightweight batteries can speak more about their reliability, but I’ve read that for daily-driven cars, they might not be the most trustworthy. Of course, the info I have could be outdated.

At the end of the day, the decision is yours. Do whatever works best for your situation. I once spent $60 on a Spoon Sports shift knob and even bought a fancy engine oil cap just because I wanted to. Your car, your choice nobody else is paying your loan or your insurance..

 

[zumbooruk]

If you're going to pursue weight reduction, I'd focus on where the biggest dynamic gains can be found. Lightweight wheels and tires are typically the highest-leverage modifications because you're reducing unsprung and rotational mass simultaneously. That said, a lithium battery is generally one of the few ways to remove 25-30 lbs. from the car without affecting comfort, NVH, or practicality. Since that weight is coming from one of the most forward locations on the chassis, it's certainly not meaningless.

If the car spends most of its life on a battery tender, I'd be less concerned about reserve capacity and more concerned with the quality of the BMS, long-term reliability, and manufacturer support. At ~$230, the Mighty Max is actually a pretty compelling dollar-per-pound weight reduction mod if the product proves reliable. If this car is a daily driver and the reliability of the product is questionable, then this becomes a very different discussion.

Thanks,

I did not realize this about wheels / unsprung weight

I always thought about choosing wheels as just for looks, and I never cared much about vanity...

Which wheels would you recommend for lightest weight?

It is my daily driver (though I work from home, so it is more like a bi-weekly driver), mostly short trips, about 50-60 miles one way. I do not intend to race or track it. but I do enjoy driving "enthusiastically"...

as far as battery, I'd probably wait till the OEM battery dies, and reevaluate then

Mighty Max seem to have less complaints than Antigravity.

 

[zumbooruk]

If you’re spending around $800 to save 30 lbs on a car that you mostly drive in stop-and-go traffic or maybe just on weekends at the track it might not really make a noticeable difference. I don’t know you personally or how you use your car, but like you said, it might be better (and cheaper) for you to lose 30 lbs yourself than to spend that much for such a small weight saving.

If your car is track-dedicated, then sure go for it! If you have the money to burn, more power to you; it’s your car and your money. I mean this in the most positive way. Owners of these lightweight batteries can speak more about their reliability, but I’ve read that for daily-driven cars, they might not be the most trustworthy. Of course, the info I have could be outdated.

At the end of the day, the decision is yours. Do whatever works best for your situation. I once spent $60 on a Spoon Sports shift knob and even bought a fancy engine oil cap just because I wanted to. Your car, your choice nobody else is paying your loan or your insurance..

I will not spend $950 for Antigravity, but I might spend the $230 for the Mighty Max

I am 6'0" 170lb not easy to lose 30lb...

as mentioned above, the car is an almost a daily driver, and I do not plan on racing or tracking it.

 

[jcb]

If it gets cold where you live....not a great solution. Had an antigravity in another brand of car....the car failed to work with it. Had to return it. Antigravity was great about it all.

 

[Evox787]

I will not spend $950 for Antigravity, but I might spend the $230 for the Mighty Max

I am 6'0" 170lb not easy to lose 30lb...

as mentioned above, the car is an almost a daily driver, and I do not plan on racing or tracking it.

I’m 6 ft and 200 lbs—down from 270 when I bought it in 2024! I can’t work out like I used to because of some injuries while on the military, but I still do what I can. Mostly, I just told my fat self to calm down and tried not to eat the entire refrigerator .

I drive about 600 miles a week, and like Clark says, you really feel it more on the wheels and tires. Yo can plan to add two-piece rotors front and rear that’s my next mod too. I already have the wheels, which weigh 23 lbs. They’re a little heavier than the forged OEM ones, but they have the offset I wanted.

 

[zumbooruk]

I’m 6 ft and 200 lbs—down from 270 when I bought it in 2024! I can’t work out like I used to because of some injuries while on the military, but I still do what I can. Mostly, I just told my fat self to calm down and tried not to eat the entire refrigerator .

I drive about 600 miles a week, and like Clark says, you really feel it more on the wheels and tires. Yo can plan to add two-piece rotors front and rear that’s my next mod too. I already have the wheels, which weigh 23 lbs. They’re a little heavier than the forged OEM ones, but they have the offset I wanted.

thanks

I am looking at lightweight wheels.

I want to keep same geometry as OEM, i.e. 19x9.5 +60

wondering if I should keep 19" or go with 18" i.e. 18x9.5 + 60

before I was looking at lightweight wheels, I was planning to go with Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 in 265/35R19 on the OEM wheels since I wanted bit more side walls, even though wheel diameter would be larger.

now, if I am going to get new wheels, might as well go 18" with 265/35R18 and keep same wheel diameter

I believe that going with 18" wheels/tires will reduce weight by another 2-3lb each corner vs the 19"

 

[Evox787]

thanks

I am looking at lightweight wheels.

I want to keep same geometry as OEM, i.e. 19x9.5 +60

wondering if I should keep 19" or go with 18" i.e. 18x9.5 + 60

before I was looking at lightweight wheels, I was planning to go with Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 in 265/35R19 on the OEM wheels since I wanted bit more side walls, even though wheel diameter would be larger.

now, if I am going to get new wheels, might as well go 18" with 265/35R18 and keep same wheel diameter

I believe that going with 18" wheels/tires will reduce weight by another 2-3lb each corner vs the 19"

Mine are 19x9.5 +50. I chose Continental DSW tires over summer tires because, on the rare occasions when the weather in Texas drops below 40, I need to rely on my wife’s car. To avoid that, I went with all-season tires.

I also went with a +50 offset because I didn’t like the way +45 looked. The tire size is the same as OEM. The forged OEM wheels have the spec you’re looking for.

 

[Clark_Kent]

Thanks,

I did not realize this about wheels / unsprung weight

I always thought about choosing wheels as just for looks, and I never cared much about vanity...

Which wheels would you recommend for lightest weight?

It is my daily driver (though I work from home, so it is more like a bi-weekly driver), mostly short trips, about 50-60 miles one way. I do not intend to race or track it. but I do enjoy driving "enthusiastically"...

as far as battery, I'd probably wait till the OEM battery dies, and reevaluate then

Mighty Max seem to have less complaints than Antigravity.

Take a look at the Spoon SW388. It's an iconic wheel, forged, and looks great on the FL5. The 18 x 8.5 +50 wheel weighs in at just under 17 lbs. That's approximately a 9.63 lbs. savings at each corner over the stock cast wheels. You can count on additional savings if you're meticulous in your tire selection. That will amount to well over 10 lbs. at each corner or ~45 - 50 lbs total - that's substantial. Another option is BBS Japan. A couple of their 1-piece forged wheels are very close in weight (within .25 lbs. IIRC) to the SW388s.

 

[Cueyo]

I know everyone is talking about wheels since thats much more effective in weight reduction and actual driving mechanics - but if you're looking at batteries stillI've heard good things about anti-gravity. The thing is, if they're all getting their stuff from the same Chinese supplier, might be better (if you can confirm quality) to just find that supplier.

it might be better (and cheaper) for you to lose 30 lbs

 

[Evox787]

I know everyone is talking about wheels since thats much more effective in weight reduction and actual driving mechanics - but if you're looking at batteries stillI've heard good things about anti-gravity. The thing is, if they're all getting their stuff from the same Chinese supplier, might be better (if you can confirm quality) to just find that supplier.

 

[Nothing]

Take a look at the Spoon SW388. It's an iconic wheel, forged, and looks great on the FL5. The 18 x 8.5 +50 wheel weighs in at just under 17 lbs. That's approximately a 9.63 lbs. savings at each corner over the stock cast wheels. You can count on additional savings if you're meticulous in your tire selection. That will amount to well over 10 lbs. at each corner or ~45 - 50 lbs total - that's substantial. Another option is BBS Japan. A couple of their 1-piece forged wheels are very close in weight (within .25 lbs. IIRC) to the SW388s.

Offering two of the more expensive options available to a guy who barely considered wheels before today.. is wicked!

They are very reputable, strong, and lightweight, but tend to run you 5k+. "Lightweight" wheels will save you about 6-9lbs per corner. Looks, rarity, and forged/cast will drive price. 18" will give you some comfort over potholes at the cost of some steering turn-in. There are many wheel threads here, and if you don't care about getting a flush fitment then it'll be much easier for you. Apex and Titan7 seem to be popular and more reasonable cost options, you will need new lug nuts (acorn) and tires. 18" tires are usually cheaper, fwiw. Keep in mind, changing the offset will add some steering effort.

 

[ABPDE5]

HRC sells 18x10 et 55 tires that are manufactured by Titan 7. They go for $525 / each. That's a good price for a forged wheel, in a FL5 / DE5 compatible fitment (essentially maintains the stock inner wheel rim location and, as a result, has a minimal impact on scrub radius despite adding width), and they'll give you good flexibility re: tire options (18x10).

https://dreamshop.honda.com/s/product/hrc-titan7-ts5-forged-18x10-wheel/01tUT000009uTF6YAM

Sponsored