Advice for a first timer

[HorizonsEdge]

Basically, lived my whole life in Manhattan without a car. I now am retired and out. I plan on doing my first oil change and transmission flush. Watched a bunch of video, does not look hard. What mistake will a rookie typically make? [FL5]

Thx

Parts:
Redline MTL (still have to get 2 crush washers for this)
Votex magnetic oil pan plug
Honda 15400-RTA-003 w/crush washer
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic

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[Cueyo]

We have a transmission fluid change thread that's super helpful, I used it to get a handle on what I needed:

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/fl5-de5-transmission-fluid-reference.63072/

General rules of fluid changes apply, off the top of my head, here's stuff for the oil change:

- use a torque wrench for everything you're tightening
- never use an impact to tighten things
- always use a new crush washer where applicable
- underfill the engine oil, run the engine for a second (manual says 30s I think), check the level again and refill to appropriate for level.
- the engine takes 5.7 quarts
- you don't have to do this, but I like to put some engine oil in the filter so it doesn't run dry the first time
- put some oil on the oil filter gasket with your finger before screwing it in
- make sure you have a tool to extract the old oil filter (the claw style tool works best)
- if you don't already have one, get a genuine Honda oil filter wrench for proper torque Part #: 07AAA-PLCA100
- when I do work on my driveway I like to drive the car up on ramps so I can get a jack under the center lift point that's further back on the car. Then I use the rear jack point under the cover to lift up the rest. Also use jack stands on all pinch welds.
- a creeper is nice to have if you don't have a lift
- have a spare oil drain pan

I would also look up correct torque wrench technique if you haven't used one before.

Good luck out there

 

[zumbooruk]

We have a transmission fluid change thread that's super helpful, I used it to get a handle on what I needed:

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/fl5-de5-transmission-fluid-reference.63072/

General rules of fluid changes apply, off the top of my head, here's stuff for the oil change:

- use a torque wrench for everything you're tightening
- never use an impact to tighten things
- always use a new crush washer where applicable
- underfill the engine oil, run the engine for a second (manual says 30s I think), check the level again and refill to appropriate for level.
- the engine takes 5.7 quarts
- you don't have to do this, but I like to put some engine oil in the filter so it doesn't run dry the first time
- put some oil on the oil filter gasket with your finger before screwing it in
- make sure you have a tool to extract the old oil filter (the claw style tool works best)
- if you don't already have one, get a genuine Honda oil filter wrench for proper torque Part #: 07AAA-PLCA100
- when I do work on my driveway I like to drive the car up on ramps so I can get a jack under the center lift point that's further back on the car. Then I use the rear jack point under the cover to lift up the rest. Also use jack stands on all pinch welds.
- a creeper is nice to have if you don't have a lift
- have a spare oil drain pan

I would also look up correct torque wrench technique if you haven't used one before.

Good luck out there

Excellent advice!

I recommend that you take a look at ValvoMax system. I opted for it even though it is not magnetic.

Not a drop of oil out, with the exception of the filter as I have not yet mastered filter removal...

I always fill the new filter with new oil (per Lake Speed Jr and others)

For the transmission fluid, I got a 500cc (or was it 1000cc?) syringe and used the check valve opening to refill (instead of removing all the stuff from the top and refilling from the "official" fill hole), was slow, but I will probably do it again next time...

I attempt to keep the car level, front to rear and side to side, my driveway slopes down, so I usually leave the rear wheels on the flat garage, choked, and jack up the front to level, then jack stands with the pinch weld protector thingies. (jack also have a rubber pad on)

Oh, I just recalled that I purchased low profile ramps for next time. have not used them yet.

btw, overfilling is much less of an issue with the ValvoMax as I can drain a little bit if I overfilled.

as far as intervals, I did my first oil change at about 3,000 miles, the next at 7,000. successive at 4k-5k intervals.

transmission fluid first change was at 7,000, next at the second oil change from the first drain, around 16k miles, successive at every third oil change, about 12-15k miles (maybe four? have not yet decided.)

as far as oil, I used to use Penzoil Ultra Platinum for years, till they changed the formula (Qatar GTL refinery victim of Iran attacks).

I did a lot of research and made a pain out of myself asking too many questions on BITOG

My next oil change is going to be Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30

as far as oil filter, Honda is not necessarily the best. see:

Honeywell sold Fram in 2011, First Brands owned Fram since 2019 till bankruptcy in 2025. It is now owned by Premium Guard

Fram Ultra Synthetic used to be the best most efficient at filtering sub 20 micron particles, 99.8 percent at 15 microns. (as were Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, all were manufactured by First Brands)

However, the Honda A02 filter used to be the same as the cheapest lowest grade Fram, not the best Ultra Synthetic.

If I have to guess, probably the same (i.e. not the top of the line) applies to the current Japan made Honda oil filters...

bottom line, just because it says Honda on the label, does not mean it is the best, most efficient filter to protect the turbocharger.

Honda has no interest in keeping our K20C1 engines and turbochargers lasting more than 120,000 miles. they would much rather sell us new Hondas, or pay them to replace/fix the engines.

I did a lot of research for the current most efficient sub 20 micron filter.

I ended up getting Purolator One (which is more efficient than the more expensive Boss)

Though I am not convinced I reach the correct conclusion... Bosch Premium 3323 and even Premium Guard EX might have been better choices.

Premium Guard, the new owner of the Fram brand might or might not use the original Fram manufacturing plant (I recall reading that the plant was dismantled?) so the new "Fram" filters might or might not be the same as the originals. and are probably just relabeled Premium Guard filter, even though they kept the exact same part numbers...

As of a few weeks ago, Amsoil was selling Wix filters, so I have no idea who might make the new Amsoil oil filters (if ever)

Some brands like Mobil 1 have shifted their contracts elsewhere. Highline Warren LLC has been the exclusive U.S. and Canada supplier of Mobil 1 since February 2025. Highline Warren is the contracted brand supplier and warranty party but the physical cans are contract-built. Recent stock and shipping records often point to Korea or Vietnam. Construction often looks like the Premium Guard private-label filters, though Highline Warren has said it is not connected to Premium Guard, yet the appearance still overlaps...


BTW, this is a fairly complete list of oil filters which used to be made by First Brands, though Champion Labs made about 30 more private label filters which were not publicly disclosed by name.

FRAM
Amsoil
Mobil 1
Royal Purple
Champ / Champion Labs
Luber-finer
Honda Genuine
ACDelco / GM
Harley-Davidson
Supertech (Walmart)
STP
Castrol
Pennzoil / Quaker State
Service Champ
Carquest

It does matter!!!

Unlike oil which starts degrading at about 1,500-2,000 and should be replaced at 4,000-5,000 miles, high filtration efficiency at under 20 microns matters from the first mile.

Particles in the 5–20 micron range do the most damage inside the turbocharger because they match the oil film thickness and journal clearances.

A turbo shaft spins at hundreds of thousands RPM on a hydrodynamic oil film only a few microns thick. The inner radial clearance of a typical small automotive floating-ring or journal bearing is commonly 7.5–15 microns at room temperature, and the minimum film thickness under load is often 1–20 microns and can be near 7 microns at full load.

A hard particle whose diameter is close to that film thickness can bridge the gap, cut the shaft or bearing, and act as a lapping compound.

Particles much larger than the clearance tend to be swept aside, and particles much smaller than the film usually pass through with less immediate damage.

Filtration that is efficient below 20 microns therefore removes the particles that actually score bearings rather than the ones that are already too large to enter the gap.

Independent engine tests found 70 percent less abrasive wear when filtration improved from 40 microns to 15 microns.

Note that a nominal “20 micron” rating is almost meaningless without efficiency data. A filter that is 50 percent efficient at 20 microns still lets half of those particles through on each pass. A filter that is 99 percent efficient at 20 microns keeps the circulating particles much lower.

Also the more expensive "better" 20K mile filters usually have less filtration efficiency, otherwise they will clog much sooner, and the bypass valve will open.

A good filter also needs low pressure drop and high enough flow, a bypass valve that stays closed in normal use and opens only as a last resort, yet no to low leakage before.

Also need to have a good anti-drainback valve, good gasket to prevent leaks, strong can that will not burst, and enough dirt-holding capacity to last the oil-change interval (the only thing that does not matter with short OCI),

High efficiency at 15–20 microns is useless if the filter is in bypass, empty at start, or starving the turbo of oil...

AI summary of the current best oil filters. excluding the original Fram/Amsoil/Royal Purple.

note that the top three are current PGI made filters. which is encouraging if Fram/Amsoil/Royal Purple will be relabeled PGI. though best would be if they would make them identical to the First Brands Champion Lab construction.

Disclaimer, below was generated by AI. "Don't Trust, AND Verify"

For the common Honda M20 × 1.5 spin-on used on the K20C1 (15400-PLM-A02 size), the filters that currently best match high 15–20 µm efficiency, high flow, a tight bypass that cracks toward the upper end of the usual 8–17 psi band, a working anti-drainback valve, and a reliable gasket are PGI’s extended-life group first, then MANN+HUMMEL’s PurolatorONE and Wix lines, then the Japan Mahle Honda can. Independent ISO 4548-12 data at 15–20 µm is sparse and often contradicts box claims. Rankings below use published ISO figures when they exist and conservative estimates when they do not. Fram Ultra Synthetic, Amsoil, and Champion Labs Royal Purple are omitted as requested.

How the ranking was applied

Efficiency at 15–20 µm is first. Clean flow and pressure drop are second. Bypass leakage and a higher crack pressure are third. Dirt capacity and burst strength are ignored. Construction of the anti-drainback valve and gasket is noted when it is a known strength or weakness.

Ranked filters

Carquest Premium (PGI / VAFI, Honda-size 84356 or current 57356-class Premium SKU). This is the strongest current match to the stated criteria among filters that still have a published ISO 4548-12 number near 20 µm. Advance Auto and Carquest list 99.5 percent efficiency at 20 µm on synthetic-blend media. Cut-opens and owner reports consistently show a silicone anti-drainback valve and a silicone or high-grade gasket that stays soft. Flow is in the normal PGI range, not the lowest restriction in the class, but it is adequate on a short 5,000 mile interval. Bypass is a conventional spring design in the common 8–11 psi band, which is the main con. That set point is lower than ideal if the goal is to stay on the filtered path during cold, thick oil. QC from PGI’s Vietnam lines has been more consistent than the disrupted First Brands plants. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/all-about-carquest-oil-filters.390750/

Premium Guard Extended Life / Ultimate (PGI house brand, Honda-size PG equivalent of 57356). Same factory family as Carquest Premium. Published figures are 99 percent multi-pass at 20–25 µm depending on the exact SKU sheet. Silicone anti-drainback and a heat-stable gasket are standard on the extended-life cans. Pros are the same media and valve package as Carquest Premium, often at a lower street price, plus PGI’s own QC rather than a newly acquired Fram line. Cons are inconsistent micron wording across PGI brand sheets (20 µm on one page, 25 µm on another) and a bypass that is not documented as a high-crack, low-leak design. Treat it as equal to Carquest Premium when the can is the extended-life version with pink or red silicone rubber. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...rquest-premium-microgard-select-specs.391952/

Microgard Select (O’Reilly, PGI). Same PGI extended-life construction as Carquest Premium. O’Reilly publishes 99 percent at 25 µm. That is a slightly coarser advertised point, so estimated 15–20 µm efficiency is a little below Carquest Premium even if the media looks identical in cut-opens. Silicone anti-drainback and gasket are the usual PGI parts. Flow is comparable. Bypass is again the ordinary 8–11 psi class. The con is the more conservative published micron number and the fact that O’Reilly also sells a cheaper Microgard that is not the Select. Buy only the Select can. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/select/microgard-select-oil-filter/

PurolatorONE PL14610 (MANN+HUMMEL). Historically this was one of the few filters marketed at 99.9 percent at 20 µm with a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE-treated gasket that resists leaks and eases removal. Flow is generally good and restriction is moderate. Pros are the parent company’s real filtration engineering, a gasket design that has a long clean record, and wide availability. Cons are that current packaging often says only “over 99 percent dirt removal” without a 15–20 µm ISO figure, and independent multi-pass results on related Purolator SKUs have not always matched the old PureONE claim. Bypass is typically mid-band, not the high end. Still a first-line choice if PGI stock is unavailable. https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG

Wix 57356 (MANN+HUMMEL). Wix currently lists about 99 percent at 23 µm, 9–11 gpm flow, and an 8–11 psi bypass on this Honda-size can. Independent flow benches usually put standard Wix among the lowest-restriction filters in the group, which is a real plus for turbo oil pressure after a cold start. Silicone anti-drainback and a quality gasket are standard. Cons are the 8–11 psi bypass (opens earlier than you asked for) and the fact that Wix’s 23 µm claim is not a 15–20 µm ISO result. Older Wix data sat near 50 percent at about 20 µm. Use it when flow matters more than the last few points of 20 µm capture. https://www.go-parts.com/ps-product-new.php?sku=4DAFDE9

Wix XP 57356XP (MANN+HUMMEL). Same can family with synthetic-blend media aimed at longer intervals. Flow is the best measured result in the Ascent 30 L/min bench among the filters still in this list (about 5 psi differential on that rig). Construction, anti-drainback, and gasket follow the regular Wix pattern. Cons are more serious on your first criterion. An independent ISO 4548-12 run on the XP line returned only about 62 percent at 20 µm against a 95 percent at 35 µm advertisement. Bypass remains 8–11 psi. XP is the flow leader, not the 15–20 µm leader. https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=63818

Honda 15400-RTA-003 (Mahle Tennex, Japan). This is the better genuine Honda can. Cut-opens show metal structure, a silicone anti-drainback valve that stays pliable, a Honda-profile gasket that seals on the factory base, and a bypass Honda calibrated for this engine family. Flow is OEM-matched to the K20C1 pump curve. Efficiency at 15–20 µm is not published as a high Beta figure. Estimate is typical OEM, roughly 50–80 percent at 20 µm, well below PGI’s 99.5 percent claim. Pros are fit, gasket, anti-drainback, and a bypass that is meant for Honda oil pressure (idle minimum about 13 psi hot). Cons are ordinary, not class-leading, fine-particle capture. Prefer this over the US 15400-PLM-A02 if you want OEM. https://www.hybrid-racing.com/products/oem-k-series-oilfilter

Mobil 1 Extended Performance M1-110 / M1-110A (Highline Warren since February 2025). Older Mann-built Mobil 1 filters were among the lowest-restriction cans and used a 12–16 psi bypass, which is closer to the high end you want. Current boxes still advertise about 99 percent at 30 µm, not 15–20 µm, so estimated 20 µm efficiency is mid-pack. Highline Warren is now the exclusive supplier. Recent cans are reported from Korea or Vietnam, sometimes with plastic end caps. Anti-drainback and gasket quality on the new production is not independently mapped the way the old Mann cans were. Pros are historically excellent flow and a higher bypass band. Cons are the coarser published micron rating and an unproven maker change. Do not treat today’s M1-110A as the same filter that was tested five years ago. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...c-relationship-with-exxonmobil-302443331.html

Purolator BOSS PBL14610 (MANN+HUMMEL). This filter scores well on your second and third criteria and poorly on the first. Bypass is listed around 14–18 psi, the highest common figure in this size. Flow is good (about 6.8 psi drop at 30 L/min in the Ascent bench). Silicone anti-drainback and a PTFE gasket are in the Purolator premium kit. The problem is efficiency. The same independent ISO 4548-12 test that confirmed Fram Ultra at 99.96 percent at 20 µm measured BOSS at 61.8 percent at 20 µm. It is a high-flow, high-bypass filter that lets through too many 15–20 µm particles for a tight turbo journal. https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=63818

Honda 15400-PLM-A02 (current US dealer can, Honeywell / Fram-type construction). Fit and gasket profile are correct. Bypass is often quoted in the 11–17 psi window. Anti-drainback is present. Efficiency is the weak point. This can has long been treated as a basic cellulose or light-blend filter, with forum estimates near 50–70 percent at 20 µm and fiber end caps on many lots. It meets Honda’s minimum, not the 15–20 µm target. Use it only when a better can is not on the shelf. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/the-honda-oil-filter-thread.394222/

NAPA Gold in the current PGI era (Honda-size 1356 / 57356 equivalent). When the can is PGI-built rather than old Wix-built, it belongs with Microgard Select. Some sheets say 99 percent at 23 µm. Silicone anti-drainback is common on recent pink-gasket lots. Confirm the can is the current PGI construction, not leftover Wix Gold, because the two are not the same product anymore. Bypass remains the 8–11 psi class. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/here-are-premium-guards-main-oil-filter-suppliers.387629/

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