FL5 Fuel Pump Relay Location

[Bruh_Huh]

Per 4122, we can use the 4122 relay for PGM Relay 1 (but I have not tried it yet)

OP. Have you tried the relay 1 yet? I am also considering the product myself.

Sponsored

 

[zumbooruk]

OP. Have you tried the relay 1 yet? I am also considering the product myself.

no, not yet.

I have not yet figured out how to get from the engine bay into the passenger compartment via the firewall. I know that there should be a plug, but I could not find it...

I've also been very busy lately, very little time to play with the car, and this relay is a relatively low priority, I work from home, car parked in garage, and we have a gate on the driveway.

Eventually, I'll give it another try and report back.

 

[BootsMoving]

I’ve tested the relay 1, it does work. I bought the wireless version. It shuts off the starter, fuel injectors, and ignition coils. So the car won’t start, even trying to push start it, it won’t turn over.

I also tested what would happen if you were driving and then pressed “off” and that will cause the car to shut off. So if someone did manage to take the car somehow and you had some sort of tracker you can just shut off the car while it’s driving.

also because of that reason I highly advise that you don’t drive with your keys in your pocket, set them down in the cup holder or center console. Wouldn’t trust my leg just squeaming around and accidentally pressing the “off” button (wireless version).

I also ran into this small issue, just because for the wireless one you have to disconnect the battery, both negative and positive terminals for the install, after installing it gave me warnings that the adaptive cruise control and lane assist and brake hold were not actively working properly. It just happens when you disconnect the battery, drove it around for 2 minutes and the problems were fixed.

secondly I got a CEL that also warned that rev match wasn’t working. However that also had to do with the battery being disconnected however this fix needed me to clear the CEL, not sure if that would happen to everyone but it happened to me, it threw code P068A. And since clearing it, it hasn’t re-appeared.

I only installed the kill switch a few days ago so not sure of the long terms effects (battery drainage possibly) I asked chat gpt and it said I was chillin so idk, I have a battery jumper incase it does kill my battery, but I’m also not leaving my car for weeks on end so it shouldn’t be a problem.

ill report back in a few weeks if I run into any issues, but so far its been working as intended.

I can post photos of the path I took for wiring if anyone wants that but overall it was pretty simple.

 

[Amm5890]

I’ve tested the relay 1, it does work. I bought the wireless version. It shuts off the starter, fuel injectors, and ignition coils. So the car won’t start, even trying to push start it, it won’t turn over.

I also tested what would happen if you were driving and then pressed “off” and that will cause the car to shut off. So if someone did manage to take the car somehow and you had some sort of tracker you can just shut off the car while it’s driving.

also because of that reason I highly advise that you don’t drive with your keys in your pocket, set them down in the cup holder or center console. Wouldn’t trust my leg just squeaming around and accidentally pressing the “off” button (wireless version).

I also ran into this small issue, just because for the wireless one you have to disconnect the battery, both negative and positive terminals for the install, after installing it gave me warnings that the adaptive cruise control and lane assist and brake hold were not actively working properly. It just happens when you disconnect the battery, drove it around for 2 minutes and the problems were fixed.

secondly I got a CEL that also warned that rev match wasn’t working. However that also had to do with the battery being disconnected however this fix needed me to clear the CEL, not sure if that would happen to everyone but it happened to me, it threw code P068A. And since clearing it, it hasn’t re-appeared.

I only installed the kill switch a few days ago so not sure of the long terms effects (battery drainage possibly) I asked chat gpt and it said I was chillin so idk, I have a battery jumper incase it does kill my battery, but I’m also not leaving my car for weeks on end so it shouldn’t be a problem.

ill report back in a few weeks if I run into any issues, but so far its been working as intended.

I can post photos of the path I took for wiring if anyone wants that but overall it was pretty simple.

I just bought the wireless upgrade to retro fit to the original kit. I now have 3 total grounds. Also the battery bolts are captive so I gave up trying to fit them. Where did you mount all of your ground wires?

 

[Xmetal]

I just bought the wireless upgrade to retro fit to the original kit. I now have 3 total grounds. Also the battery bolts are captive so I gave up trying to fit them. Where did you mount all of your ground wires?

Ground can go to any of the chassis bolts closest to your "gadget"

 

[BootsMoving]

not sure why you would have so many grounds since I only have 1, but here is like a simple drawing of how I have it wired out.

my negative is not connected directly to the battery, it’s connected to the battery’s ground location.

 

[Amm5890]

not sure why you would have so many grounds since I only have 1, but here is like a simple drawing of how I have it wired out.

my negative is not connected directly to the battery, it’s connected to the battery’s ground location.

I have this. The wireless upgrade itself has 2 more grounds plus the existing one.

https://41twentytwo.com/product/wir...WjwpQw3m-DcOhTaXTsw_rboSz2LVE4RjV2NpPZb0LAW5X

 

[BootsMoving]

I have this. The wireless upgrade itself has 2 more grounds plus the existing one.

https://41twentytwo.com/product/wir...WjwpQw3m-DcOhTaXTsw_rboSz2LVE4RjV2NpPZb0LAW5X

Interesting, did not know they did that. You should probably be fine doing what I did, just will have more wire than me I guess. Let me know if u have more questions about the system and I’ll try my best to help out.

 

[BootsMoving]

Update: CEL has returned twice since clearing it, same code and everything. It seems to be a re-occurring issue. Doesn’t do any harm at all but it would be annoying if you kept on having to clear the light every few days/week.

I'm going to play around with things to see if it was an installation problem on my end.
or if it’s an issue with the kill switch.
or if it’s something completely unrelated to the kill switch(maybe it’s the dashcam I installed idk, very unlikely though)

Anyway if I find a fix to the issue I’ll update it here, or if I find out it’s just an issue with the kill switch and not fixable I will also update that here.

 

[BootsMoving]

Update: CEL has returned twice since clearing it, same code and everything. It seems to be a re-occurring issue. Doesn’t do any harm at all but it would be annoying if you kept on having to clear the light every few days/week.

I'm going to play around with things to see if it was an installation problem on my end.
or if it’s an issue with the kill switch.
or if it’s something completely unrelated to the kill switch(maybe it’s the dashcam I installed idk, very unlikely though)

Anyway if I find a fix to the issue I’ll update it here, or if I find out it’s just an issue with the kill switch and not fixable I will also update that here.

first thing I’m going to be doing is checking all of the kill switch wiring, mainly the ground, making sure it’s actually grounded properly, I’ve noticed the relay being kinda hot at times so it might be from a bad ground. And I’ll drive around like this for a while. (Which would prove if it was just an installation issue)

if that’s not the fix then I’ll replace the factory relay and drive around to see if that was the fix(which would prove it’s an item issue)

 

[BootsMoving]

first thing I’m going to be doing is checking all of the kill switch wiring, mainly the ground, making sure it’s actually grounded properly, I’ve noticed the relay being kinda hot at times so it might be from a bad ground. And I’ll drive around like this for a while. (Which would prove if it was just an installation issue)

if that’s not the fix then I’ll replace the factory relay and drive around to see if that was the fix(which would prove it’s an item issue)

The issue was not a bad ground.

The issue was that I was arming the kill switch too fast, like the code for the CEL states that the computer lost power too soon (the car needs time after shutting it off to log data)

so the fix for this is just to not arm the kill switch immediately after leaving the car, After leaving the car and locking it, give I will give it roughly 10 seconds before turning on the kill switch. And this keeps the car from keeping on throwing a CEL at you.

while the CEL doesn’t really harm the car as far as I noticed, just kinda annoying. I’d keep an obd2 reader on hand just to clear the light quickly if it ever appears (like if you accidentally turned the kill switch on too soon)

I also keep an obd2 blocker on my port so it would be kinda annoying to have to keep taking it off to reset the light so finding this out that I needed to give it a wait time was helpful. Just doing as much as I can to keep the car from getting stolen since I’ll be moving to Cali soon and hearing too many nightmares story’s of Type R’s getting stolen. Might just start taking my battery with me everywhere I go.

if you have more questions reach out, I’ll do my best to help.

Sponsored