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Flushing Brakes

S4one

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Does it matter if I keep the emergency brake engaged or release it?

My car only has about 5k miles, if the existing fluid is clear/identical to the new SRF, is there a way to just estimate based on time on each valve bleed?

thanks
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MYK20C1

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Does it matter if I keep the emergency brake engaged or release it?

My car only has about 5k miles, if the existing fluid is clear/identical to the new SRF, is there a way to just estimate based on time on each valve bleed?

thanks
Driving around with emergency break on is not a good idea. Doesn’t matter what color the brake fluid is!
 
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S4one

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I meant during the brake flush, should I engage or disengage the emergency brake / hand brake since it locks the rear..
 


madbikes

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My car only has about 5k miles, if the existing fluid is clear/identical to the new SRF, is there a way to just estimate based on time on each valve bleed?
Brake fluid should be changed every two years regardless of mileage and cannot estimate if the fluid is any good with your eyes. Brake fluid needs to be changed regularly because it absorbs moisture. You can buy test strips or test pen to test water content.

If you do track days regularly, you should change your brake fluid change more frequently
 

MooMoo

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Can't tell you exactly how much to get out to make sure all is out but I would get like 1 and half liters at least be sure. Also would let it run longer for the rear brakes because lines are longer obviously. As far as the e brake I don't remember what I did but pretty sure it was on. I don't really think it matters because part of the brake procedure is after you bleed the rears you have to push the parking brakes a few times and then re bleed the rears again.
 
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S4one

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Thanks all! Regarding the last step engaging and is engaging the brake 5x, do I need to remove the power bleeder or release the pressure?
 

MooMoo

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Thanks all! Regarding the last step engaging and is engaging the brake 5x, do I need to remove the power bleeder or release the pressure?
Not sure if you do or not but I did. I mean you would want to at least release the pressure for sure but I just removed it, did it and plugged it again and then re bleed the rears
 


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S4one

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Thanks all for the suggestions. I flushed the brakes yesterday.

It definitely was not a hard task but have to have patience. Something’s that occurred.

- There was a leak at the reservoir cap (Honda cap connected to Motive bleeder) so I had to tighten it.

- I had to keep the pressure between 13 -15 psi, otherwise I was able to see dark/old fluid go backwards on the bleeder tube, maybe 1-2in on the tube. This is only when the bleeder valves are closed, when they are open the motive tube is completely clear.

- I had the rear axle jacked up and when I went to engage the ebrake 5x, it would not engage or disengage. I had to put the wheels back on and put the car down on the floor in order to use the ebrake. I did release the motive pressure but didn’t remove the reservoir cap.

- In the end, when I released the reservoir cap, the reservoir was full of fluid, pretty much to the top. So I had to remove some. When I looked at the fluid, it wasn’t fully clear. It was similar to the fluid color prior to flushing, however I did flush out about 1L of fluid SRF. I read that there is still old fluid in the accumulator so in order to fully flush one will need to remove that and rescan the car? No idea if that’s true.
 
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Trey

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What honda cap did you use with the motive tank?
 

Trey

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it would be nice if someone posted a video on youtube. I wonder if the procedure is the same as the FK8
Same. Start with front driver side. Put it all back together when done. Cycle ebrake five times then bleed the rears again.
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