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RV6 Catted Downpipe and P1039 CEL

UJX

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So I installed the RV6 catted downpipe about a month ago and it's paired to an AWE Touring exhaust. It has performed great with no check engine lights....until today.

On my way home from work, my car went into limp mode and I figured it was the downpipe. Checked the code and it's a P1039 which is O2 Sensor Slow Response. I was told that this downpipe shouldn't throw a code but here I am.

Couple questions:

1. What is the permanent solution besides uninstalling or getting Hondata/Ktune? A google search said something turning the defouler 1-2 turns. Is that one complete 360 or one turn with the wrench?

2. I saw that one way to clear the CEL is to pull the ECU fuse, rather than disconnect the battery for 15 min. Question: Where is this fuse? I looked through the fuse diagram and couldn't definitely say what the ECU fuse was. Any ideas?
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So I installed the RV6 catted downpipe about a month ago and it's paired to an AWE Touring exhaust. It has performed great with no check engine lights....until today.

On my way home from work, my car went into limp mode and I figured it was the downpipe. Checked the code and it's a P1039 which is O2 Sensor Slow Response. I was told that this downpipe shouldn't throw a code but here I am.

Couple questions:

1. What is the permanent solution besides uninstalling or getting Hondata/Ktune? A google search said something turning the defouler 1-2 turns. Is that one complete 360 or one turn with the wrench?

2. I saw that one way to clear the CEL is to pull the ECU fuse, rather than disconnect the battery for 15 min. Question: Where is this fuse? I looked through the fuse diagram and couldn't definitely say what the ECU fuse was. Any ideas?
Best way to clear the code is to buy a OBD II scanner. They sell them for cheap on amazon. As far as the defouler you might have to space it out even more. Best bet would be to do Hondata.
 
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UJX

UJX

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Best way to clear the code is to buy a OBD II scanner. They sell them for cheap on amazon. As far as the defouler you might have to space it out even more. Best bet would be to do Hondata.
Thanks, I ordered one. I disconnected the positive terminal and the little ground terminal (not the actual negative terminal) for 15 minutes and it didn't clear the code...
 

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Thanks, I ordered one. I disconnected the positive terminal and the little ground terminal (not the actual negative terminal) for 15 minutes and it didn't clear the code...
Yeah these civic hold on to codes like no tomorrow, I had mine without battery for 3 days and codes still popped up lol. The scanner will clear it right up. Do get that spacer for the o2 if you won’t be tuning it.
 

nattypiso

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So I installed the RV6 catted downpipe about a month ago and it's paired to an AWE Touring exhaust. It has performed great with no check engine lights....until today.

On my way home from work, my car went into limp mode and I figured it was the downpipe. Checked the code and it's a P1039 which is O2 Sensor Slow Response. I was told that this downpipe shouldn't throw a code but here I am.

Couple questions:

1. What is the permanent solution besides uninstalling or getting Hondata/Ktune? A google search said something turning the defouler 1-2 turns. Is that one complete 360 or one turn with the wrench?

2. I saw that one way to clear the CEL is to pull the ECU fuse, rather than disconnect the battery for 15 min. Question: Where is this fuse? I looked through the fuse diagram and couldn't definitely say what the ECU fuse was. Any ideas?
Dang, that's unfortunate. Not surprised since there's already been reports of RV6's DP getting CEL's in the past. Unless you have Hondata FlashPro, best way to clear the code is to get a cheap OBD II scanner as mentioned above. Once you clear the diagnostic code, you could try to purchase a longer/bigger de-fouler to replace the RV6 one, so you can further increase the distance between exhaust fumes and the O2 sensor even more.
 


ssheff55

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So I installed the RV6 catted downpipe about a month ago and it's paired to an AWE Touring exhaust. It has performed great with no check engine lights....until today.

On my way home from work, my car went into limp mode and I figured it was the downpipe. Checked the code and it's a P1039 which is O2 Sensor Slow Response. I was told that this downpipe shouldn't throw a code but here I am.

Couple questions:

1. What is the permanent solution besides uninstalling or getting Hondata/Ktune? A google search said something turning the defouler 1-2 turns. Is that one complete 360 or one turn with the wrench?

2. I saw that one way to clear the CEL is to pull the ECU fuse, rather than disconnect the battery for 15 min. Question: Where is this fuse? I looked through the fuse diagram and couldn't definitely say what the ECU fuse was. Any ideas?
When I ordered my downpipe l, Corey at TSP told me RV6 would likely throw a code, and just stated to turn it off on Hondata. That would be the best route.

Also, just curious, why do a downpipe if you don’t plan on tuning?
 
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UJX

UJX

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When I ordered my downpipe l, Corey at TSP told me RV6 would likely throw a code, and just stated to turn it off on Hondata. That would be the best route.

Also, just curious, why do a downpipe if you don’t plan on tuning?
I will likely have it tuned one day but not at the moment.

Also, I was told to tighten the defouler a turn. When I look down at the defouler through the top of the engine bay, there is no way I am going to be able to tighten this thing one turn without it hitting the block. Not sure how I'd be able to do this without taking the downpipe off.
 

Aero1900

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Anyone with the Two Step Performance downpipe getting check engine lights?
 
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Any follow up on this? I just installed the catted RV6 downpipe and after about 100 miles, I have the same CEL.
 


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I have the same cat and it would throw a code every 200 miles or so. I just cleared it with a code reader. Now have a tune so all is well
 

Clark_Kent

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Your catted downpipe shouldn't throw a CEL and you also shouldn't have to resort to software to disable the CEL. Get the downpipe that doesn't throw a code.
 
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UJX

UJX

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Any follow up on this? I just installed the catted RV6 downpipe and after about 100 miles, I have the same CEL.
I had the CEL happen twice before I got Hondata and disabled it. Prior to getting Hondata, I bought a 20 dollar OBD2 scanner off Amazon and would clear it.

I contacted RV6 and they said to adjust the defouler by rotating it. Problem is, once the DP is installed you can't turn the defouler a complete turn without hitting the block so you would have to remove the DP in order to adjust it.

I don't know if the defouler isn't set properly from the factory or what but it seems to be just a tiny bit off since the CEL's happen very infrequently (for me at least). I'd say I put 1000-1500 miles and got two CELs in that time.
 
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OK, thanks! I am going to get Derek Robinson from IMW to do a custom tune with Hondata and will have him turn the sensor off it is an issue. The problem for my county in VA is that the emissions testing will see that the o2 sensor is "not ready."
 
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UJX

UJX

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OK, thanks! I am going to get Derek Robinson from IMW to do a custom tune with Hondata and will have him turn the sensor off it is an issue. The problem for my county in VA is that the emissions testing will see that the o2 sensor is "not ready."
Don't quote me on this but I'm not sure it will show as not ready. I think what Hondata does is when it sees the voltage dip come from the sensor when the sensor sees not enough emissions (or however it works) it ignores it and doesn't trigger the code. I don't think it disables the sensor.
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