*The FL5 Track Junkie Thread*

MooMoo

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Yeah that makes sense, on my last car was similar with stock shock max was 2.6. Which is pretty decent as a dual duty car. Thats what I am aiming for with ball joints
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Rexpelagi

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The ball joints are just a much easier install and go more with "hand tools" vibe that sport is supposed to be.
Yes and no - since Sport allows lowering springs there's really no added difficulty to do camber plates, although I'm not sure if the lowering springs help or hurt with how craptastic the stock shocks are.
 

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On the bmw m2 camber plates were pretry easy to install, didn’t even need spring compressors so didn’t need to remove the strut, my awesome mechanic installed them in 45 min. I assume similar on the type R? The ball joints actually look more involved. I just wish there was more options for camber plates
 

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Yep, I think that's him! We chatted a bit throughout the event, seemed like a nice guy. I'm not sure who protested him - I was not paying enough attention during the impound session to notice. I doubt the FMIC mattered much in the temps we were running in - I didn't notice high IATs on my end with the stock setup. But, the SCCA is a stickler for the rules, regardless of if it matters or not. My car became Sport-illegal a few days after TT Nationals thanks to the RMM and Karcepts bar I installed after, knowing I'd be in Tuner anyway next year. 😂
Why the RMM illegal? It's rubber. That would make a bunch of Elantra N's illegal as well
 


Rexpelagi

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On the bmw m2 camber plates were pretry easy to install, didn’t even need spring compressors so didn’t need to remove the strut, my awesome mechanic installed them in 45 min. I assume similar on the type R? The ball joints actually look more involved. I just wish there was more options for camber plates
The strut needs to be removed on the Type R, although it's not that difficult as long as it isn't seized in the knuckle. A spring compressor is advisable for removal of the stock springs, but after they were removed I was able to put the Swifts on without spring compressors just using body weight (although it takes some effort to do it that way).
 

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The strut needs to be removed on the Type R, although it's not that difficult as long as it isn't seized in the knuckle. A spring compressor is advisable for removal of the stock springs, but after they were removed I was able to put the Swifts on without spring compressors just using body weight (although it takes some effort to do it that way).
If you're not doing springs, the ball joints can be done in 45 minutes or less.

I also think people shy away from the top mounts because it may bring some NVH
 

Tougefl5

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If you're not doing springs, the ball joints can be done in 45 minutes or less.

I also think people shy away from the top mounts because it may bring some NVH
I decided to go with balljoints instead of camber plates for the exact reason from past experience. Since getting the exhaust I can't hear shit anyway lmfao
 

Rexpelagi

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If you're not doing springs, the ball joints can be done in 45 minutes or less.

I also think people shy away from the top mounts because it may bring some NVH
NVH can be an issue with top mounts but I haven't noticed anything, fwiw. Springs theoretically would be required to maximize for the class, although I don't know how much they help.

I think I did the front springs and top mounts in around 2hrs, but I did them on a car with less than 500mi which probably helped with regards to getting the shock out of the knuckle.
 
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BigBird

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NVH can be an issue with top mounts but I haven't noticed anything, fwiw. Springs theoretically would be required to maximize for the class, although I don't know how much they help.

I think I did the front springs and top mounts in around 2hrs, but I did them on a car with less than 500mi which probably helped with regards to getting the shock out of the knuckle.
A VW strut spreader makes it easy to pop the strut out, but it took me way longer, like most things.

I did springs mostly for the looks, and was hoping that it wouldn't negatively effect handling, and I don't think it does. I wasn't sure what I want to do time trials wise, otherwise I'll go coilovers like usual.
 
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BigBird

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do we know what the difference is btw all the kits? Some are just the size of rotors 355 vs 372 but what about the other differences?

The paragons still a lot cheaper and are probably also very good, AP is the golden standard though.

I have been reading about melting boots on the oem brembos, definitely a thing, titanium shims are definitely a must. Also feel like it will depend on the pads, some pad material will transmit a lot more heat to the pistons than others.

Currently using EBC SR11 which are sintered and apparently will put a lot more heat on the caliper, I guess time will tell
wondering if the 372x34 6-piston will fit with 18" wheels. naughty thoughts are entering my mind lol
 

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wondering if the 372x34 6-piston will fit with 18" wheels. naughty thoughts are entering my mind lol
lol. Don't know but on my M2 people would go from the 6 piston M2 Competition calipers to the 6 piston APs because the oem calipers didn't fit on 18s but the APs did.
 

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lol. Don't know but on my M2 people would go from the 6 piston M2 Competition calipers to the 6 piston APs because the oem calipers didn't fit on 18s but the APs did.
From pictures AP brake calipers usually look thinner than other brands. That might be why it fits better.
 

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the clearance on the M2 was actually height, the brembo stock caliper was massive, 400mm disc. Looked awesome, performed awesome but was a pain in the ass because 19s only and caliper had to be fully removed to change pads.
 

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Ok...I sobered up...who's buying $5k brakes...oh....yeah not happening right now lol

Man...drunk dreaming and buying should have some type of passcode or a breathalyzer after like 11PM 😂
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