What did you do to your FL5 today?

[J35W2]

Busy month. ECU is on the way to Innovative Motorsport for unlock & TSP Stage 1 ready to flash. While the ECU was out, installed the Acuity cable bushings, insulated heat tape to the bottom/sides of the PRL carbon airbox, TSP catted DP, PRL FP, lava DP blanket, turbo blanket, Acuity adjustsble shift kit, Cobb RMM, AMSOIL transmission fluid & Dream Auto heatshield.
Next is PRL air/oil seperator, H&R springs and perhaps Pracworks manifold.
Shift cable bushings were a thing as the battery, charge pipe & intake had to come out. Acuity shift kit is brilliant. Shortened the throw, gates are tighter, lowered the shift knob. Centering spring is nice & tight and the throws are very mechanical & short.

 

[askyman161]

Installed the clutch damper delete. It's so much better and more natural now. I'm kinda mad Honda even put it there in the first place. The FK8 didn't have it. Just the CDV in the master cylinder. I have struggled with what felt like inconsistent low speed clutch bite on this car since I got it last summer. All gone now. Strongly recommend this cheap mod. I did have to bleed the clutch after install. Apparently not everyone does this, but mine was stuck to the floor after I got everything hooked back up. Clutch bleeds are pretty easy on this car though.

Yo how hard was the install and the bleeding process, I'm afraid I might mess up the bleeding procedure lol

 

[Jon_To]

Evening everyone, final revision is done. I love it!

Anyway, you can send me the file for this. Would love to print one out. Also can you design a cover for the dead pedal/foot rest to go around it to protect the red carpet. I got the high-wall floor mats but that area is the only place that is exposed and will get ruined over time.

 

[Unity Performance]

That 585 480 is impressive. Congrats to you sir. The magic starts to happen pretty early too, very responsive setup. I like it.

Thanks! I know the Kuro+ can respond a little quicker even but I wanted to try a different setup this time around as we've done several Kuro builds already. RV6 put together a really good package!

If I ever switch up, I'd want to try out MDR's new offerings. No plans yet, just racking up some miles before winter storage

 

[Unity Performance]

Installed the clutch damper delete. It's so much better and more natural now. I'm kinda mad Honda even put it there in the first place. The FK8 didn't have it. Just the CDV in the master cylinder. I have struggled with what felt like inconsistent low speed clutch bite on this car since I got it last summer. All gone now. Strongly recommend this cheap mod. I did have to bleed the clutch after install. Apparently not everyone does this, but mine was stuck to the floor after I got everything hooked back up. Clutch bleeds are pretty easy on this car though.

Also installed it over a month ago on mine, and the clutch pedal is much more linear and has gained a nice weighted feel. The little bit of rev-hang that was still there after Hondata disabled it in software is now completely gone. This is how a manual transmission should feel! I left the CDV in, since I don’t think it needs to be deleted at this point.

A local friend who's not tuned yet, did both at the same time and he's pretty happy overall. I'll try to find someone who's not yet tuned and hasn't done both, so I can get their feedback on ONLY the clutch damper delete.

Bang for buck, this has climbed to the top of our recommended upgrades for driver feel. It’s an easy sub-$100 no-brainer.

 

[Unity Performance]

How is spool time at 4k rpm?

No issues at 4K, it is MOVING by that point.

Green = stock turbo, stock dp, stock tune, upgraded intake, inlet, intercooler, 93
Blue = Kuro, FBO, stock fuel system, 93
Red = R660 AS, FBO, upgraded fuel system, 93

The R660 AS is making 150whp at 3000 rpm, while the other two are at or just under 200whp at the same rpm. At about 3,700 rpm the R660 AS really starts to pick up steam and keeps the lead from there on.

So it’s not as punchy right away, but it carries so well. I putter around the 2.5-3.5k range mainly while city driving, so I’m alright with the momentary lag. It keeps things exciting for when I want to venture past 4000

Humza

 

[ABPDE5]

No issues at 4K, it is MOVING by that point.

Green = stock turbo, stock dp, stock tune, upgraded intake, inlet, intercooler, 93
Blue = Kuro, FBO, stock fuel system, 93
Red = R660 AS, FBO, upgraded fuel system, 93

The R660 AS is making 150whp at 3000 rpm, while the other two are at or just under 200whp at the same rpm. At about 3,700 rpm the R660 AS really starts to pick up steam and keeps the lead from there on.

So it’s not as punchy right away, but it carries so well. I putter around the 2.5-3.5k range mainly while city driving, so I’m alright with the momentary lag. It keeps things exciting for when I want to venture past 4000

Humza

Nice to see the dyno graphs of different build paths (Kuro curves are pretty impressive for stock fuel system).

I'm more interested in the spool time or "transient response" or "lag" (or w/e you want to call it) of the RV6 turbo, which isn't displayed in the graphs. Assuming you are in the power band (at or around 4k), and haven't been building much boost, how long does it take the RV6 to build boost? i.e. do you have an estimate for the delay between when you put the pedal down and when the turbo starts putting out its maximum power at a given rpm relative to something smaller like the Kuro?

There's lots of information out there that shows at which RPM each turbo starts to make power, but it's hard to get data re: how long each turbo takes to go from moderate / low boost to full boost, while in the lower end of its power band, on a stock motor.

 

[djl526blue]

Hello, has anyone used the J's Racing Strut Tower Brace? I was all set to order the PRL throwback brace and then I saw the J's Racing model and thought it looked sturdier. But I haven't seen it installed in anyone's FL5 except for the J's Racing promo photos and wondered if anyone has tried it.

 

[Chilly613]

Hello, has anyone used the J's Racing Strut Tower Brace? I was all set to order the PRL throwback brace and then I saw the J's Racing model and thought it looked sturdier. But I haven't seen it installed in anyone's FL5 except for the J's Racing promo photos and wondered if anyone has tried it.

Besides the price, they are more or less going to be the same since both the PRL, J's Racing, and a bunch of other strut bars are 3 piece designs. If you want something more rigid a once piece bar would be better. Its more for looks anyways since the strut towers on the FL5 are so much closer to the firewall compared to older Honda's and other cars.

 

[djl526blue]

Thanks for the comment. Who makes a one piece brace? Probably only makes sense to add it if it’s one piece. Otherwise, as you say, it’s just for show.

 

[getRIGHT]

Thanks for the comment. Who makes a one piece brace? Probably only makes sense to add it if it’s one piece. Otherwise, as you say, it’s just for show.

My favorite is this one in titanium but as already mentioned, unlike Golden Era Hondas an FSB doesn’t really do much for this platform
https://originfabrication.com/colle...553cf0-4567-4623-a845-ee3fdaabd317-1792854057

 

[djl526blue]

Thanks for the information. Those bars show fantastic build quality in both Chrome Moly and Titanium. I get that the FL5 shock towers are very close to the firewall so the effect is probably largely cosmetic. I could see how stiff this chassis was when I rotated my tires. You lift the car from the front jack point and before you know it, the rear tire is already off the ground. Some of that is the short wheelbase, but I'm guessing some is from the overall stiffness of the chassis.

 

[Xmetal]

My favorite is this one in titanium but as already mentioned, unlike Golden Era Hondas an FSB doesn’t really do much for this platform
https://originfabrication.com/colle...553cf0-4567-4623-a845-ee3fdaabd317-1792854057

That looks like one of the nice one where you may not even need to remove the bar when you need to change out/remove the battery!

 

[getRIGHT]

That looks like one of the nice one where you may not even need to remove the bar when you need to change out/remove the battery!

Correct. It also allows for pin removal as well

 

[dwag88]

Yo how hard was the install and the bleeding process, I'm afraid I might mess up the bleeding procedure lol

I have a pressure bleeder which made it way easier, but I did still need to recruit my son to help pump the clutch a couple of times to fully get the air out. Apparently it's possible to install this part without letting in enough air to require a bleed, but I had to. My clutch went to the floor once I was done. The bleeder is actually really easy to get to just below and to the right of the turbo on top of the transmission housing. If I had to rate the install difficulty on a 10 point scale, I would give it a 4/10 if you have to bleed. If you can get away without it, a 2/10. It's really not bad at all.

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