🔴💊 Engine Oil Red Pill Thread: Only Post If You Have UOA - Official Honda Civic Type R K20C1 Engine Oil Analysis

[johnloov]

? Official UOA (Used Oil Analysis) Thread – Data-Only Civic Type R Engine Oil Results (FL5 & FK8)

READ FIRST – This is a Scientific Thread, Not a Speculation Thread
This thread is strictly dedicated to Civic Type R owners (FL5 and FK8) who are contributing Used Oil Analysis (UOA)data, to build a collective understanding of how various engine oils actually perform under real-world and track conditions.

? Post Requirements:
Please ONLY post if you have UOA results from a lab like Blackstone, Speediagnostix, or similar. Each post should include:

1. Oil Brand and Viscosity (e.g. Honda Ultimate 0W-20, Redline 5W-30, Motul 300V 0W-30)
2. Miles on Oil
3. Track Use or Street Use (or mix)
4. Engine Temp Ranges Observed
5. Modifications (Stock or not; e.g. downpipe, tune, etc.)
6. UOA Report Screenshot or Attachment
7. Optional: Oil change interval history or patterns (e.g. every 2K mi / every 3 track days)

Let’s use this thread as a repository of real data, so we can finally move past speculation, internet myths, and unsubstantiated claims about oil viscosity, wear, or performance.

DO NOT POST IF:

• You’re sharing an opinion without UOA data.
• You’re debating viscosity theory without evidence.
• You’re here to argue about brand loyalty or marketing claims.

There are many other threads to explore those discussions. This thread is for data only.

The Goal:
To create a clean, ongoing repository of scientific oil testing data from the Civic Type R community to inform decisions on:

• Which oils protect best under hard use
• How track sessions impact oil condition and wear
• What change intervals make the most sense based on engine wear metals
• What trends emerge over multiple oil changes using the same oil

Let’s keep it respectful, tight, and focused. Please do not comment unless you're sharing UOA results or asking a clarifying question directly about someone’s posted data.

Ideally, run the same oil, at least 3 oil changes in a row to start to get decent data.

If you'd like to give feedback or discuss theories, there are existing separate threads - Let's maintain the integrity of this one.

ONLY THOSE THAT HAVE DATA - PLEASE Contribute

?Start Posting Below — Post Your Oil Samples Here!

Let’s build the most useful, data-driven oil performance thread on the internet for the Civic Type R.



============================================================================

Here is my baseline results with Honda Factory Fill and Honda Ultimate 0W-20.

My car was 80-90% used at Laguna Seca, 10-20% on street - mostly to and back from Laguna Seca. The car was run as hard as you can fully OEM Spec.
1.44.87 min Laguna Seca

 

[Tougefl5]

?

 

[johnloov]

? Official UOA (Used Oil Analysis) Thread – Data-Only Civic Type R Engine Oil Results (FL5 & FK8)

READ FIRST – This is a Scientific Thread, Not a Speculation Thread
This thread is strictly dedicated to Civic Type R owners (FL5 and FK8) who are contributing Used Oil Analysis (UOA)data, to build a collective understanding of how various engine oils actually perform under real-world and track conditions.

? Post Requirements:
Please ONLY post if you have UOA results from a lab like Blackstone, Speediagnostix, or similar. Each post should include:

1. Oil Brand and Viscosity (e.g. Honda Ultimate 0W-20, Redline 5W-30, Motul 300V 0W-30)
2. Miles on Oil
3. Track Use or Street Use (or mix)
4. Engine Temp Ranges Observed
5. Modifications (Stock or not; e.g. downpipe, tune, etc.)
6. UOA Report Screenshot or Attachment
7. Optional: Oil change interval history or patterns (e.g. every 2K mi / every 3 track days)

Let’s use this thread as a repository of real data, so we can finally move past speculation, internet myths, and unsubstantiated claims about oil viscosity, wear, or performance.

DO NOT POST IF:

• You’re sharing an opinion without UOA data.
• You’re debating viscosity theory without evidence.
• You’re here to argue about brand loyalty or marketing claims.

There are many other threads to explore those discussions. This thread is for data only.

The Goal:
To create a clean, ongoing repository of scientific oil testing data from the Civic Type R community to inform decisions on:

• Which oils protect best under hard use
• How track sessions impact oil condition and wear
• What change intervals make the most sense based on engine wear metals
• What trends emerge over multiple oil changes using the same oil

Let’s keep it respectful, tight, and focused. Please do not comment unless you're sharing UOA results or asking a clarifying question directly about someone’s posted data.

Ideally, run the same oil, at least 3 oil changes in a row to start to get decent data.

If you'd like to give feedback or discuss theories, there are existing separate threads - Let's maintain the integrity of this one.

ONLY THOSE THAT HAVE DATA - PLEASE Contribute

?Start Posting Below — Post Your Oil Samples Here!

Let’s build the most useful, data-driven oil performance thread on the internet for the Civic Type R.



============================================================================

Here is my baseline results with Honda Factory Fill and Honda Ultimate 0W-20.

My car was 80-90% used at Laguna Seca, 10-20% on street - mostly to and back from Laguna Seca. The car was run as hard as you can fully OEM Spec.
1.44.87 min Laguna Seca

Motul 300V 5w/30

 

[johnloov]

 

[johnloov]

 

[johnloov]

Here is a helpful video and information from an expert that explains why the brand of oil doesn't matter, from an expert. If you want the best performance, you need to see the data from the lab to see which oil is protecting your engine the best. Remember brands don't matter. Every brand may have a few super star engine oils that work excellent with your engine, and others that may not.

What shocked me is the Amsoil OE, was one of the worst performing, and the cheapest one, Napa, which is made by Valvoline, was the best. Valvoline tends to have high moly formulation in their engine oils.



I was very wrong in the beginning looking at these bearing tests online, and Lakespeed has shown it's a bogus test.

Here is a video that explains how API SP really does protect very well the cylinder walls. I was surprised by this data, as I thought, an engine oil that has the lowest wear scar was better, but in reality the piston is gliding, floating on the cylinder walls. The chemistry is extremely important, and specific to certain engine types.

Lake speed explains it best:

 

[PNEUMA]

Here is a helpful video and information from an expert that explains why the brand of oil doesn't matter, from an expert. If you want the best performance, you need to see the data from the lab to see which oil is protecting your engine the best. Remember brands don't matter. Every brand may have a few super star engine oils that work excellent with your engine, and others that may not.

What shocked me is the Amsoil OE, was one of the worst performing, and the cheapest one, Napa, which is made by Valvoline, was the best. Valvoline tends to have high moly formulation in their engine oils.



I was very wrong in the beginning looking at these bearing tests online, and Lakespeed has shown it's a bogus test.

Here is a video that explains how API SP really does protect very well the cylinder walls. I was surprised by this data, as I thought, an engine oil that has the lowest wear scar was better, but in reality the piston is gliding, floating on the cylinder walls. The chemistry is extremely important, and specific to certain engine types.

With the data sheets you have posted earlier from oil analysis, may I ask you what your opinion is as to the best oil you have used?

 

[Rhorn]

OPs Honda Ultimate Full Synthetic 0W20

This is the Virgin Oil Analysis, meaning this is a baseline of what the Oil looks like.

This is OPs Report from using the oil. You want to look at the cST Viscosity and SUS Viscosity numbers which are at the bottom. These values are important because it is showing how viscous the oil is and how much protection/lubrication the oil is providing the engine

You can see the base values have dropped. This means that the oil had thinned out and is no longer providing the expected lubrication for the engine.

SUS - 11.8 point drop : 60.3 to 48.5

cSt - 3.49 drop : 10.29 to 6.8

I have only used Amsoil Signature Series 5W30 and based on my reports the Viscosity drop values are nowhere near that range.

VOA for Amsoil SS 5W30 With my Report

SUS - 2.6 point drop : 59.3 to 56.7

cSt - 0.79 point drop 10.03 to 9.27

All oil will thin and SUS and cSt values will drop from a VOA simply because the oil is being used and degraded but you can see that with Amsoil the viscosity isnt degrading nowhere the same rate as Honda Ultimate 0W20. Amsoil 5W30 is still maintaining its baseline Viscosity ratings with minimal drop despite the high engine loads of track use. Degradation is minimal and the service interval can be pushed out more. I added 2,000 miles and did 3 track days so the Viscosity Ratings should be lower, but how low? Idk. Im waiting on the results

Another very important spec is the fuel dilution percentage. This is important because our cars are DI and there is always the case of blow by. Dont know fuel details by its bad oil going back into the engine. This is why people add oil catch cans. Unfortunately Blackstone doesn't test for fuel dilution they only guess, other Oil Analysis Companies can actually test for the fuel dilution.

If theres an oil that can mitigate fuel dilution (2% is within acceptable ranges) and still maintain the high Viscosity ratings with minnimal drop compared to the VOA than it would be truly the best oil for our cars

I was recommended Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 X4 because with Amsoil 5W30 the ~11 cSt rating doesnt have much wiggle room before it degrades to 0W20 levels which is whats going on. Getting one with a 12 cSt rating will give you more wiggle room so it stays in the XW-30 oil range of Viscosity before the Viscosity starts dropping.

Im going to use another company for a UOA to see what the fuel dilution rate is with the Amsoil in the car currently and then I'll try Mobile 1 ESP 0W-40x4.

I was warned against Amsoil 0W40, it'll offer good protection but because its designed to be have extended service intervals, it has alot of detergents and because our cars are sensitive to fuel dilution because of the turbo abd DI there's a possibility it'll increase carbon intake and fuel dilution. Because our cars have a turbo and are DI there are some extra considerations.

Either way the best oil is the one that has high cSt Viscosity ratings, maintains its Viscosity ratings with minimal drop off and has the lowest fuel dilution. Honda Ultimate 0W20 is not that oil

This is a good database of VOA for a bunch of oils

 

[Rhorn]

This is the VOA for Motul 300v Competition 5W40 note the high cSt rating @ 12.7 and SUS @69

This is a promising oil imo, and I'll probably get this over the Mobil 1 ESP just because they dont make Mobil 1 ESP in a 5W40, its only 0W40

 

[hoping2Get1]

Sample 1: factory fill
Sample 2: HPL PCMO NOVII 5w-30, FRAM Synthetic Endurance Filter

No track time, stock, and drive many short trips since I purchased the car because of daughters daycare...which will end soon along with emptying my wallet!

Seems the oil didn't sheer as bad with the fuel dilution, probably nothing else exciting. Plan to do couple more UOAs to see if I can extend my OCI (once the short trips end).

 

[johnloov]

With the data sheets you have posted earlier from oil analysis, may I ask you what your opinion is as to the best oil you have used?

With the data sheets you have posted earlier from oil analysis, may I ask you what your opinion is as to the best oil you have used?

Definitively, I can only comment on the Honda Factory fill and Honda Ultimate 0w-20. That was my testing so far.

My dealership gave me free oil changes, and recommended it, and I wanted to see if it really could take track abuse on a stock type r, and it worked excellent. I did change it every 1000 miles 2-3 track days.

I personally can't say much about other oils, but when I did look at lab reports of race oils, like Motul 300V, I did see it degrade quite quick. It has less detergents. My friend did try Motul Power 8100 5w30 which is API SP certified engine oil, and he has twin oil coolers, and he ran it on Laguna Seca 3 track days and 3000 miles as a daily, and his results were excellent also.

Based on that, it seems you are very safe with an API SP certified engine oil and change it 2-3k miles, and you should be safe running a Motul 300V, but change it after every race, maybe 2 max. Not recommended for 3500 miles though. The API SP will do better.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is an excellent oil as well from many people that race their Type R's here at Laguna Seca like Zygrene and Jason, who held the track lap record for sometime.

I will try something else in the future, as I'm moving to Texas which is hotter, but will continue to use this oil, and see what the lab results show.

The most important thing is to get an API SP engine oil, which is designed for the latest direct injections engines, and change it frequently.

Engine oils keep getting better with these standards. I'm very interested in the upcoming API SQ,

"Enhanced Engine Protection: API SQ builds upon the performance benefits of API SP, offering improved wear protection and better high-temperature resistance across existing and ultra-low viscosity grades ."

According to the top engine designer for the Nissan Skyline, all engine engine oils start to degrade at 2000 miles, and the most important thing you can do to keep your engine running for a very very long time, is to drain it, and ensure you get rid of contaminants.

Hope that helps.

 

[johnloov]

 

[johnloov]

 

[johnloov]

 

[johnloov]

I'll be upfront with my goals:

1) Maximize OEM Operational Efficiency == Horsepower

2) Optimal OEM Cooling - As designed by Honda

3) Maximize Minimal Engine Wear

I'm only using Honda OEM Ultimate Full Synthetic as a base line for my experiment, before moving onto other oils. I'll be the first to admit what the data shows.

Now one thing to notice is, this was Factory fill 0W-20 Honda Oil test below, which has a lot more moly, is an engine break mix. You can see that from my data in the beginning of this thread.

Honda Ultimate seems to be a bit less friction, as the break in oil was removed, oil change after oil change. If the engine labs results look excellent. I will not change it, until I hit a consistent PPM level.

I did notice both water temps and estimate oil temps go down. I could feel the engine getting cool faster after 20 min sessions were completed.

You don't have to believe me, just look at the results on a dyno below, and make your own conclusions. It's about a ~5HP difference.

Predicting Power Loss for 5W-40:
5W-40 is even thicker than 5W-30, especially at high temps. Assuming a linear or slightly exponential degradation in average power:

• Estimate a further drop of 1.5 to 2.5 kW in average power compared to 5W-30.
• This gives an estimated average power of around 203.5 to 204.5 kW atw.
• Converted to horsepower at the wheels:
  204 kW×1.341= 273.6 hp atw204 kW×1.341= 273.6 hp atw

Compared to stock (211 kW best / ~280 hp), this is about a 6–7 hp potential loss on average using 5W-40.

Sponsored