Nikw91
Senior Member
At least they did the right thing and paid for shipping/replacement.
Still time/labor and coolant isn’t the cheapest.
Hopefully this is just an anomaly.
Did you notice any temperature changes between the radiators?
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Still time/labor and coolant isn’t the cheapest.
Hopefully this is just an anomaly.
Did you notice any temperature changes between the radiators?
CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #17
I wouldn’t say PWR products are lacking in quality based upon one report of failure. My intercooler and track spec radiator are working fine without issue.
I could not find any information on other Civic owners with PWR issues.
If I have any further issues I’ll certainly update but I don’t expect to.
CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #18
Agreed on the wasted money and time. I’m going to accept this is part of tracking cars unfortunately.
I do notice a difference in temperatures between the OEM, the PWR track spec, and the PWR WOT triple pass spec radiators.
I’ve run all three with HEL oil cooler. I’ve run the track spec and WOT spec with the cooling under-tray.
OEM radiator - I could not complete a 20 minute session without overheating. I had to slow down and run cool-down laps. Those who can complete 20 minute track sessions are not pushing the car or they’re accepting high temps. It is not designed with enough cooling capacity at track pace.
PWR track spec - I can complete 20 minute sessions, depending on the track layout, ambient temps, and how hard I’m pushing on each lap. At Hedge Hollow I had no cooling issues. At I29, today I ran 6 sessions and on three of them I had to run cool-down laps in the middle of the sessions, which was fine because it helped with the garbage PS4S tires I’m running. The difference in these three sessions was that I was pushing hard every lap.
PWR WOT track spec radiator - I’ve only run three track days with this radiator before it failed. I had no temperature issues when running it, but temps were: mid-60s, mid-70s, and mid-70s.
I’ll know more later in the summer with the PWR WOT radiator to compare to the track spec. Both are miles ahead of the OEM setup.
CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #19
06/26 update
06/26/26 Track Day at I29 Speedway
We ran a private track day with 10 people today. I spent a lot of time driving and riding in other cars. I put in 31 hot laps and another handful of cool-down laps that I didn't log.
I was only able to run 91 octane and my 91 fuel map so I was down on speed on the straight and I lost significant top speed (4.5 MPH) compared to last weekend. My best time today was a 1:46 lap, and that was disappointing. The PS4S tires have 99 laps over three track days and 16 sessions. I've rotated front to back and side to side to try to manage them. I'm still seeing really early delamination on the edges (both inside and outside, depending on the track's layout).
I'm going to switch to Hoosier Track Attack Pro or Nankang CR-S V2 next. While cheap, the PS4S aren't particularly enjoyable to drive and I constantly have to worry about overheating them.
Cars present today:
FL5 (me)
Heavily modified Viper, ACR+ level
GT350R
95 Cobra R
C8 (supercharged)
Mini
X5 M Competition (yes, the SUV)
GR86
991.2 Carrera
Fastest lap went to the GT350R, by a few tenths over the C8. both about a second faster than me. GT350R on Cup 2 tires, C8 on Track Attack Pro.
Most enjoyable lap for me was driving the 95 Cobra R on Cup 2 tires. It's not too powerful and it has all the suspension and chassis flex with the tire grip. It's not fast but it is fun.
Scariest car to drive and ride in was the Viper. I only drove six laps but I could not get comfortable with the horrible seating position, pedal offset, pedal spacing, and the very challenging short-throw shifter. I could not manage to do a 4-3 downshift without screwing up my braking. The car is extremely capable but I would need time to practice. As a passenger it felt sketchy.
Equipment issues on the day:
The C8 recently had a warranty repair done for an oil leak from the dry sump tank. It didn't make it through a track day without the issue repeating itself. Back to the dealer it goes.
The Viper had a blown front tire, cause undetermined.
The GT350R destroyed a set of Cup 2 front tires in one track day. Time for camber adjustments and/or a different tire.
06/26/26 Track Day at I29 Speedway
We ran a private track day with 10 people today. I spent a lot of time driving and riding in other cars. I put in 31 hot laps and another handful of cool-down laps that I didn't log.
I was only able to run 91 octane and my 91 fuel map so I was down on speed on the straight and I lost significant top speed (4.5 MPH) compared to last weekend. My best time today was a 1:46 lap, and that was disappointing. The PS4S tires have 99 laps over three track days and 16 sessions. I've rotated front to back and side to side to try to manage them. I'm still seeing really early delamination on the edges (both inside and outside, depending on the track's layout).
I'm going to switch to Hoosier Track Attack Pro or Nankang CR-S V2 next. While cheap, the PS4S aren't particularly enjoyable to drive and I constantly have to worry about overheating them.
Cars present today:
FL5 (me)
Heavily modified Viper, ACR+ level
GT350R
95 Cobra R
C8 (supercharged)
Mini
X5 M Competition (yes, the SUV)
GR86
991.2 Carrera
Fastest lap went to the GT350R, by a few tenths over the C8. both about a second faster than me. GT350R on Cup 2 tires, C8 on Track Attack Pro.
Most enjoyable lap for me was driving the 95 Cobra R on Cup 2 tires. It's not too powerful and it has all the suspension and chassis flex with the tire grip. It's not fast but it is fun.
Scariest car to drive and ride in was the Viper. I only drove six laps but I could not get comfortable with the horrible seating position, pedal offset, pedal spacing, and the very challenging short-throw shifter. I could not manage to do a 4-3 downshift without screwing up my braking. The car is extremely capable but I would need time to practice. As a passenger it felt sketchy.
Equipment issues on the day:
The C8 recently had a warranty repair done for an oil leak from the dry sump tank. It didn't make it through a track day without the issue repeating itself. Back to the dealer it goes.
The Viper had a blown front tire, cause undetermined.
The GT350R destroyed a set of Cup 2 front tires in one track day. Time for camber adjustments and/or a different tire.
CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #20
07/11/26 Update:
I installed SRP Racing Pedals today. I’ve had them for about an month and hadn’t gotten around to installing due to lack of time and very hot weather leading to a very hot garage.
Installation is straightforward.
Dead pedal - drill four 7/64 holes and then install the SRP cover with provided four sheet metal pointed screws. They are self tapping and you’re basically screwing into a soft bit of foam and carpet.
Clutch pedal - The clutch pedal is plastic. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The plastic pedal has three pre-drilled holes. Install the SRP cover with provided three machine screws and nuts.
Brake pedal- The brake pedal is metal. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The metal pedal has three pre-drilled holes. I had to use a 11/64 drill bit to increase the size of the holes to use the provided machine screws and nuts.
Gas pedal - This is the most time consuming pedal to install. The OEM metal cover sits over a plastic base and is held on by four metal tabs that are bent around the inside of the plastic pedal. I used needle-nose pliers to bend two of the tabs to remove the OEM metal cover. Once this is done you’re left with a plastic pedal that has several grooves. The SRP cover has a series of holes that don’t perfectly align with the raised areas of the plastic pedal so you have to choose where you’re going to drill new holes. I used a 1/16 drill bit to start two holes. The plastic is fairly tough. I then drilled the two holes to 7/64. I used two provided sheet metal pointed screws to install the SRP cover. I then repeated the 1/16 and 7/64 on two more holes and used two more provided sheet metal pointed screws to secure the SRP cover.
The SRP pedals seem to be well built. I’ll update after my 7/12/26 track day on their effectiveness compared to the OEM pedals.
One area of improvement would be to have the holes in the metal SRP gas pedal align with the plastic OEM pedal surface. As designed they’re slightly off so you can’t align your screws with each of the OEM plastic raised surfaces.
Total install time was about an hour. It would have been quicker if It weren’t so hot in my garage and if I had the notes I provided here.
I installed SRP Racing Pedals today. I’ve had them for about an month and hadn’t gotten around to installing due to lack of time and very hot weather leading to a very hot garage.
Installation is straightforward.
Dead pedal - drill four 7/64 holes and then install the SRP cover with provided four sheet metal pointed screws. They are self tapping and you’re basically screwing into a soft bit of foam and carpet.
Clutch pedal - The clutch pedal is plastic. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The plastic pedal has three pre-drilled holes. Install the SRP cover with provided three machine screws and nuts.
Brake pedal- The brake pedal is metal. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The metal pedal has three pre-drilled holes. I had to use a 11/64 drill bit to increase the size of the holes to use the provided machine screws and nuts.
Gas pedal - This is the most time consuming pedal to install. The OEM metal cover sits over a plastic base and is held on by four metal tabs that are bent around the inside of the plastic pedal. I used needle-nose pliers to bend two of the tabs to remove the OEM metal cover. Once this is done you’re left with a plastic pedal that has several grooves. The SRP cover has a series of holes that don’t perfectly align with the raised areas of the plastic pedal so you have to choose where you’re going to drill new holes. I used a 1/16 drill bit to start two holes. The plastic is fairly tough. I then drilled the two holes to 7/64. I used two provided sheet metal pointed screws to install the SRP cover. I then repeated the 1/16 and 7/64 on two more holes and used two more provided sheet metal pointed screws to secure the SRP cover.
The SRP pedals seem to be well built. I’ll update after my 7/12/26 track day on their effectiveness compared to the OEM pedals.
One area of improvement would be to have the holes in the metal SRP gas pedal align with the plastic OEM pedal surface. As designed they’re slightly off so you can’t align your screws with each of the OEM plastic raised surfaces.
Total install time was about an hour. It would have been quicker if It weren’t so hot in my garage and if I had the notes I provided here.
CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #21
07/13/26 Update:
I completed another track day at I29 Speedway on 07/12/26.
It was a very hot and humid day with temps peaking in the upper 80s and humidity at 60-75%. In the morning, when it was 75-80F, I was on 91 octane and fuel map and was able to reach top speed of around 122MPH. In the afternoon, when temperatures reached up to 88F I was running 93 octane and fuel map and was able to reach 124MPH.
The SRP pedals worked perfectly. They are more grippy than the OEM pedals and stayed firmly connected. They are set up better for heel and toe shifting than the OEM pedals and I had to be mindful of my foot position when on the brakes to avoid inadvertently pressing the gas. My Lotus pedals were much closer together so it’s a muscle memory thing I was able to correct after a few laps.
My tires were not in the best shape with some tread delamination starting on the rears, from my last track day when they were on the front. My goal was to get through six sessions without losing a tire. Traffic in the advanced group prevented many clean laps so this assisted in not overheating the tires. I was surprised how well they held up through the day, given their starting condition and my previous experience with them. I completed 36 hot laps.
The advanced group had several drivers/cars present that had no business being in that group so it was pretty frustrating to have them consistently ruining laps and failing to point by. Every time I saw a particular BRZ and Boxster, I knew the lap would be ruined. Frustrating stuff and not usually the case in the advanced group.
By the last session of the day, most had given up due to the heat so I went out with only one other car on track. With the track wide open I decided to push the car hard to see if I could approach a PB. I quickly set a lap about 0.5 seconds off so I took a cool-down lap and tried again. At this point I was sliding quite a bit and fighting understeer but was on pace for a new PB. I struggled to find any front grip in the last two high-G corners and missed a PB by about 0.25 seconds. I completed a cool-down lap and called it a day.
Sure enough, the fronts were done. Heat + sliding + rough track surface is a bad recipe for PS4S. They end their life with 135 hot laps over four track days and 20+ sessions.
There were a total of three FL5s and a Integra Type S present. All three FL5s were on PS4S tires, with the other two cars set up stock and on track for the first time. The ITS is running Continentals on 18s and has previous track time.
It was good to ride with the other FL5 drivers and for them to ride with me. I was about 7-8 sec per lap faster but they improved their times pretty well throughout the day as they began to trust the car’s grip through some of the more challenging turns.
It is pretty interesting how well the stock cooling system can hold up to a slower pace on track. I can see why there are reports of the stock cooling system being sufficient. At the pace they were both running, water temps seemed to peak around 220 and oil 275. I was seeing the same water temps in my car while running the PWR radiator, HEL oil cooler, WOT under-tray, etc. I also am running more power with the tune so it’s not a direct comparison. A few years ago, with my car in stock configuration, at my pace, I was unable to complete a 20-minute session.
Next track day is in a few weeks.
Incoming parts over the next few months:
- HRC TCR wing
- Verus canards
- RaceBred splitter
- J’s Racing Phantom Dry hood
- J’s Racing valve cover
- Origin Fab titanium strut bar
I completed another track day at I29 Speedway on 07/12/26.
It was a very hot and humid day with temps peaking in the upper 80s and humidity at 60-75%. In the morning, when it was 75-80F, I was on 91 octane and fuel map and was able to reach top speed of around 122MPH. In the afternoon, when temperatures reached up to 88F I was running 93 octane and fuel map and was able to reach 124MPH.
The SRP pedals worked perfectly. They are more grippy than the OEM pedals and stayed firmly connected. They are set up better for heel and toe shifting than the OEM pedals and I had to be mindful of my foot position when on the brakes to avoid inadvertently pressing the gas. My Lotus pedals were much closer together so it’s a muscle memory thing I was able to correct after a few laps.
My tires were not in the best shape with some tread delamination starting on the rears, from my last track day when they were on the front. My goal was to get through six sessions without losing a tire. Traffic in the advanced group prevented many clean laps so this assisted in not overheating the tires. I was surprised how well they held up through the day, given their starting condition and my previous experience with them. I completed 36 hot laps.
The advanced group had several drivers/cars present that had no business being in that group so it was pretty frustrating to have them consistently ruining laps and failing to point by. Every time I saw a particular BRZ and Boxster, I knew the lap would be ruined. Frustrating stuff and not usually the case in the advanced group.
By the last session of the day, most had given up due to the heat so I went out with only one other car on track. With the track wide open I decided to push the car hard to see if I could approach a PB. I quickly set a lap about 0.5 seconds off so I took a cool-down lap and tried again. At this point I was sliding quite a bit and fighting understeer but was on pace for a new PB. I struggled to find any front grip in the last two high-G corners and missed a PB by about 0.25 seconds. I completed a cool-down lap and called it a day.
Sure enough, the fronts were done. Heat + sliding + rough track surface is a bad recipe for PS4S. They end their life with 135 hot laps over four track days and 20+ sessions.
There were a total of three FL5s and a Integra Type S present. All three FL5s were on PS4S tires, with the other two cars set up stock and on track for the first time. The ITS is running Continentals on 18s and has previous track time.
It was good to ride with the other FL5 drivers and for them to ride with me. I was about 7-8 sec per lap faster but they improved their times pretty well throughout the day as they began to trust the car’s grip through some of the more challenging turns.
It is pretty interesting how well the stock cooling system can hold up to a slower pace on track. I can see why there are reports of the stock cooling system being sufficient. At the pace they were both running, water temps seemed to peak around 220 and oil 275. I was seeing the same water temps in my car while running the PWR radiator, HEL oil cooler, WOT under-tray, etc. I also am running more power with the tune so it’s not a direct comparison. A few years ago, with my car in stock configuration, at my pace, I was unable to complete a 20-minute session.
Next track day is in a few weeks.
Incoming parts over the next few months:
- HRC TCR wing
- Verus canards
- RaceBred splitter
- J’s Racing Phantom Dry hood
- J’s Racing valve cover
- Origin Fab titanium strut bar
