Audio Update, Bad News

[AshSerigala]

I did always wonder how tricky it would be to do an audio swap on an 11 gen civic sport-touring.

The center speaker when connected to android auto at least, plays your notification sounds, google-maps voice nav sounds, etc.

But yeah. It kinda sucks because with my past car, Chevy Spark, I just put a fiber optic headunit into the car and ran everything through a JL-TuN, piping out to sundown amps and sundown subs...focals for everything else. I ditched all that when the Spark died and used the sales to fund the civic. I did want to look into the door speakers and such. To see if they are standard ohm or some special BS so you cant swap them out easily..? I almost half assume "Oh simple just cut all the front/rear/sub speaker wires, pipe them into a JL-TWK, and bam." As thats what I've done with past cars where I kept a stock headunit. Speaker-Level in, Line-Level + Fiber out. Automatically syncs the EQ flat via a test tone that plays a ton of tones at ones. And then you can fine-dial on the TuN.

But from what I gather above that may not be a "doable" option.. Guess will see whenever I decide to adventure this! Just had to know what I want to do. Kinda had my "Fun" When I was rocking enough to blur your vision. Now days I'm almost honestly okay with stock, Just wanting more low-end ( ported ). Having ran dual 8" X.V3's Sundowns in the past..been lightly debating trying Deaf Bonce just for something different. Single 12.


But if I read correct, theres SPDIF Fiber feeding into the bose amp? Do you know if its full-range un-modified? As if thats the case, I'm sure my JL-TuN can process it and then I just plug amps in and boom..done. Tune EQ by ear or tune by mic.

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[psyborg]

@ThirtyHz one more question (in addition) where is the stock amp? Is the SPDIF cable optical?

 

[ThirtyHz]

This is fantastic, thanks! That's an insane amp! What subs do you have for 3.5KW? I'm curious about your speakers. I went with a 10" JL sub and some Blam! 165P speakers in my 10th gen and they do alright without a DSP/Amp but I'm looking for a serious upgrade when I go to the 11th gen.

Does that Sundown get hot inside the foam? Any issues with heat back there?

QQ about the center speaker; is it balanced or is it just for the system sounds, voice control, etc? Did you bother replacing it?

*edit*

If I were looking for something other than the DM-608 -- is it using the optical spdif or the coax cable?

So when it comes to the center speaker, I completely disconnected it. Unfortunately that center speaker plays both music and all voice for phone calls, navigation etc. I’m currently living without but will eventually figure out a solution to retain it.
The amp does become quite hot at higher volumes and load, but no issues yet. For day to day use, I’ve been running a Sound Solutions Audio ICON 12” sub. My DSP preamp voltage going to the sub amp is at a conservative level so I’m in a safe spot with that sub on such a large amp. Competitively, I’ve been experimenting with a variety of different Sundown Audio subs but that’s a whole different conversation.
Right now I am not using any coaxial or SPDIF from the factory wiring. Just wired in rear door speaker and factory sub high levels, which are digitally summed together and give me a fairly good source.

 

[ThirtyHz]

@ThirtyHz one more question (in addition) where is the stock amp? Is the SPDIF cable optical?

The stock amp is up in the corner of the passenger kick well near the front passenger fender, way up behind the glove box. I don’t believe it is optical, I may be mistaken, but if I remember correct it is a digital coax feed

 

[psyborg]

The stock amp is up in the corner of the passenger kick well near the front passenger fender, way up behind the glove box. I don’t believe it is optical, I may be mistaken, but if I remember correct it is a digital coax feed

Did you confirm that the coax works? I really don't want to go the channel summing route unless it's the only way. I guess I'd have to balance the output for the center speaker as well though. What a mess.

 

[ThirtyHz]

Did you confirm that the coax works? I really don't want to go the channel summing route unless it's the only way. I guess I'd have to balance the output for the center speaker as well though. What a mess.

I did not confirm that, although my collection of tools is sufficient, I do not have a way of testing the coax. Only thing I did was unplug it and confirmed that audio no longer worked and plugged it back in.

 

[xanderalex]

I did not confirm that, although my collection of tools is sufficient, I do not have a way of testing the coax. Only thing I did was unplug it and confirmed that audio no longer worked and plugged it back in.

Trying to wire up an AIO Kicker Hideaway sub, you think I can tap into the factory trunk subwoofer?

 

[shaner89]

Hi Everyone,

I am posting the information below to help those wanting to install a good aftermarket stereo and still retain the factory radio without having to deal with Bose EQed signal after the amplifier. This applies to the 9" display/Bose amplified set-up not the basic 7" display/8speaker. In the diagram below of the factory 9" head unit in the left picture (mounted below the screen in the center of the dash, on the 7' factory radio's it is part of the screen as shown in comparison below) you can see all the plugs in the back. The bottom right plug is the plug that outputs the speaker signals on the base system. On the connector view you can see below that some pins have *1 (w/8 speakers) on pins A5-A8 and pins A15-A18 because if you have the 12 speaker system these pins are not used due to the fact these outputs come out of the Bose amp instead. My suspicion is that these pins are likely still fed an audio signal and our systems just have no pins and wires in the connector, they are blank. I am going to pull the plug off the head unit in the dash and install pins in the blank locations and hook up speakers and see if I get output. If there is output, it would be a fantastic source to use for a DSP or LOC for an aftermarket amp setup. I may not get to this for a couple weeks but I will report back if it works. If anyone has the chance to test this before me, please report back. The only issue with this setup is that I am not yet sure if we will lose any functionality from deleting the Bose amp. I am excited to try this because I would love to delete the Bose amp and build a really nice stereo like I've done in my other vehicles. You could unplug the Bose amplifier out connector and feed your speakers from your amp to there and replace all door speakers and tweeters with better equipment. There are also some hidden menus on this system, not sure if we would have to go in under audio and change any settings to get output from these pins? I am going to play around with this and report back.

Below the head unit connector view, I have included the Bose amplifier connector view for those wanting to tap in after the amplifier. ( I will be doing it this way if the first option doesn't work) Hopefully this helps some people!

Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
A1	GND	Ground for audio unit (G013)
A2	GND	Ground for audio unit (G013)
A3	+B AUDIO	Continuous power source
A4	+B AUDIO_SUB	Continuous power source
A5*1	RL_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker and left rear door tweeter
A6*1	RL_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker and left rear door tweeter
A7*1	RR_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker and right rear door tweeter
A8*1	RR_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker and right rear door tweeter
A9	Not used	―――
A10	Not used	―――
A11	Not used	―――
A12	K-LINE	Detects scan tool signal (serial data)
A13	Not used	―――
A14	YB-CAN A_H	Communication signal
A15*1	FL_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for driver's door speaker and left front tweeter
A16*1	FL_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for driver's door speaker and left front tweeter
A17*1	FR_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for front passenger's door speaker and right front tweeter

*1: With 8 speakers

*2: With 12 speakers

*3: USA/Canada models

*4: Mexico models

*5: Type-R/Si

Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
A18*1	FR_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for front passenger's door speaker and right front tweeter
A19	Not used	―――
A20	BACK_LT	Detects reverse signal
A21*2	SWD+B	Outputs signal for stereo amplifier and active sound control unit*5 switching on/off
A22	VSP	Inputs vehicle speed pulse
A23	IG1_WITH_DIODE_FMVSS*3	Power source for accessories or detects reverse signal
ACC*4	Power source for accessories
A24	YB-CAN A_L	Communication signal

*1: With 8 speakers

*2: With 12 speakers

*3: USA/Canada models

*4: Mexico models

*5: Type-R/Si

Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
A1	GND	Ground for stereo amplifier (G005)
A2	SUB_WOOFER+	Outputs sound signal for subwoofer
A3	+B_AUDIO_AMP	Continuous power source
A4	SUB_WOOFER-	Outputs sound signal for subwoofer
A5	CTR SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for front center speaker
A6	CTR SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for front center speaker
A7	FL_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for driver's door speaker
A8	FL_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for driver's door speaker
A9	FR_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for front passenger's door speaker
A10	FR_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for front passenger's door speaker
A11	RR_DOOR_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker and right rear door tweeter
A12	RR_DOOR_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker and right rear door tweeter
A13	RL_DOOR_SPKR-	Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker and left rear door tweeter
A14	RL_DOOR_SPKR+	Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker and left rear door tweeter
A15	Not used	―――
A16	Not used	―――
A17	Not used	―――
A18	SATL_SP+(N/W_IN)	Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker
A19	SATL_SP-(N/W_IN)	Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker
A20	SATR_SP-(N/W_IN)	Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker
A21	SATR_SP+(N/W_IN)	Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker
A22	FR_TWEETER+	Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter
A23	FR_TWEETER-	Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter
A24	FL_TWEETER+	Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter
A25	FL_TWEETER-	Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter

Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
A26	Not used	―――

Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
B1*	ANC_R-	Inputs signal for acceleration sound enhancement from active sound control unit
B2*	ANC_F-	Inputs signal for acceleration sound enhancement from active sound control unit
B3	Not used	―――
B4	AUX BEEP	Inputs system beep signal
B5	AUX NAVI GND	Basis ground for terminals No. 4 and No. 12
B6	Not used	―――
B7	RS485-	Communication signal for audio unit
B8	Not used	―――
B9*	ANC_R+	Inputs signal for acceleration sound enhancement from active sound control unit
B10*	ANC_F+	Inputs signal for acceleration sound enhancement from active sound control unit
B11	Not used	―――
B12	AUX NAVI	Inputs sound signal for voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts
B13	Not used	―――
B14	SWD+B	Inputs signal for stereo amplifier switching on/off
B15	RS485+	Communication signal for audio unit
B16	Not used	―――

*: Type-R/Si

Stereo Amplifier Connector C (2P) (female terminals)

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Cavity	Terminal Name	Description
C1	SPDIF2 SIG	Communication signal for audio unit
C2	SH(SPDIF2 SIG)	Shield for terminal No. 1

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