Jonnys_honda FL5 Build Thread

Turboawd

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Have you removed the top pins from the top of the damper to gain more camber?
No, haven’t pulled the pins yet, it really done anything regarding camber.

I’m actually thinking about also doing the spoon rigid collars at the same time, if i do the camber bolts or pull those pins, to minimize the number of alignments that i need to do (to hopefully just one alignment 😅😅)
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tezzasaurusrex

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Are these the hardrace adjustable ball joints? I think it's the same part for the FL5 and FK8, right?

Can I ask: when using these adjustable ball joints to add more negative camber, do they result in the tops of the tires being "pushed in" into the fender well? Or do they actually just "push out" the bottom of the tires?

I'm asking because I want to know if using these adjustable ball joints will help me reduce tire rub on the front wheel well liner by pushing in , or tucking in, the tops of the tires a little bit more into the fenders.
Yes thats correct, same part for both FL5 and FK8.
The top of the wheel does indeed move inwards with the ball joint as the knuckle pivots on the top ball joint (located just behind the top of the brake disc).

However the best way to gain wheel clearance is to remove the strut pin and push that in as far as possible - this will gain you -0.3° camber or -1.8° with the oem ball joints.
 

Turboawd

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Yes thats correct, same part for both FL5 and FK8.
The top of the wheel does indeed move inwards with the ball joint as the knuckle pivots on the top ball joint (located just behind the top of the brake disc).

However the best way to gain wheel clearance is to remove the strut pin and push that in as far as possible - this will gain you -0.3° camber or -1.8° with the oem ball joints.
Thanks guys for the replies... Apprecieate it!
 
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jonnys_honda

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Thanks guys for the replies... Apprecieate it!
Let us know how it goes! I learned my lessons from the FK8 platform and it's great the FL5 can be worked on in the same exact manner with the same parts (except springs).
 

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Let us know how it goes! I learned my lessons from the FK8 platform and it's great the FL5 can be worked on in the same exact manner with the same parts (except springs).
Will do! I think my most likely course of action now is to go for the hardrace joints, spc rear arms, and maybe the rigid collars, and go for an alignment. Will let you know how it goes!
 


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Eibach Sportline FL5 Spec!

They reached out to get a prototype over to me. The drop is great!!

Full resolution not support on this site but here’s a reduced file.
IMG_8247.jpeg

IMG_8248.jpeg
Note: All Images posted on my thread are for personal use only. Not to be used for commercial purposes without my written permission.
Which springs do you like more? Spoon or Eibach? Which ones do you think have a better ride quality?
 
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Which springs do you like more? Spoon or Eibach? Which ones do you think have a better ride quality?
The comfortable ride of spoon was very OEM like but the wheel gap did not look very appealing.

With Eibach Sportline FL5 spec, the drop looks great and the stiffness leads to a better driving feel at the cost of a little comfort.

Ultimately depends on what is important to you.
 

DeathB4Dishonr

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The comfortable ride of spoon was very OEM like but the wheel gap did not look very appealing.

With Eibach Sportline FL5 spec, the drop looks great and the stiffness leads to a better driving feel at the cost of a little comfort.

Ultimately depends on what is important to you.
How much comfort is lost? The equivalent of driving around with the stock suspension set to sport or more towards driving in +R all the time? Maybe not as aggressive as +R but more towards that end of the spectrum? I definitely will want to lean more towards comfort. Anyways, thanks for the input!
 

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Yes that’s correct, direct fit. Be sure to torque those bolts down otherwise you’ll get noise back there over bumps.
Hey Johnny, how are you finding the eibach rear camber arms so far? Any noises? Was it the pinch bolt for the camber adjuster that wasn't torqued up properly?
 


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However the best way to gain wheel clearance is to remove the strut pin and push that in as far as possible - this will gain you -0.3° camber or -1.8° with the oem ball joints.
Noted. Will need the extra clearance soon
 
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jonnys_honda

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Hey Johnny, how are you finding the eibach rear camber arms so far? Any noises? Was it the pinch bolt for the camber adjuster that wasn't torqued up properly?
No noises so far. And yes you got it, the pinch bolt I initially wrenched tight. But ended up replacing the supplied hardware and added my own bolt and flanged nut so that I could have more surface area and torque properly.
 

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No noises so far. And yes you got it, the pinch bolt I initially wrenched tight. But ended up replacing the supplied hardware and added my own bolt and flanged nut so that I could have more surface area and torque properly.
Ah I see what you mean. I just ordered a pair of these arms.
The 5 or 6mm allen head doesn't look like it will yield enough torque to get it tight enough. Is it an M8 bolt? Is there a torque spec in the instructions?

11th Gen Honda Civic Jonnys_honda FL5 Build Thread Eibach.JPG
 
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Ah I see what you mean. I just ordered a pair of these arms.
The 5 or 6mm allen head doesn't look like it will yield enough torque to get it tight enough. Is it an M8 bolt? Is there a torque spec in the instructions?

Eibach.JPG
I have to double check but yes it’s either m6 or m8. 25mm long is what I ended up using since I had a pack of them which was a little longer than needed but is fine.
 
 







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