Less (weight) is more.

[TypeRbuilder]

I shaved about 400lbs off my TLX Type S, trying for a more balanced weight distr. Problem is? Remove 40lb's from the 'rear mount' battery makes it MORE nose heavy! LOL.

And the way the car handles from the get go, you need to balance that weight reduction: Take out the rear seats....put a lighter battery up front....etc....

My first weight reducing act? Wheels and brakes! Shave about 13lbs per corner makes a WORLD of difference!

A balancing act for sure!

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[chopsuey34]

Weight reduction plan:

5x5 fork put-downs
3x5 plate push-aways
1x3 table get-ups -> 1x3 walk-aways (supersets)

 

[TypeRbuilder]

Weight reduction plan:

5x5 fork put-downs
3x5 plate push-aways
1x3 table get-ups -> 1x3 walk-aways (supersets)

Yup....quickest way to lose weight is by going on a diet! I remember when I build bikes, guys would cry over grams. Go on a diet!! that's LBS!!

 

[joshinthecity]

"Simplify, then add lightness" - Colin Chapman (Lotus)
Not Gordan Murray

Noted. And corrected. Thanks.

 

[blueroadster]

This should get you close to your goal without gutting.

Free weight reduction:

• TCU Removed from Dash: -0.28 kg (-0.61 lbs.)
• Owner's Manual Binder Removed from Glovebox: -0.95 kg (-2.1 lbs.)
• Tire Inflator Removed from Trunk: -1.77 kg (-3.89 lbs.)
• Foam Trunk Tray and other Accessories Removed from Trunk: -0.81 kg (-1.8 lbs.)

Removal of the above equals -3.81 kg (-8.4 lbs.)

Additional weight reduction (example from my car):

• Wheels, Tires and Rotors Replaced: -17.93 kg (-39.52 lbs.) Unsprung Mass
• Stock Turbo Inlet Assembly Replaced: -2.18 kg (-4.8 lbs.) Sprung Mass
• OEM Frontpipe and Exhaust Replaced (Fujitsubo): -6.6 kg (-14.52 lbs.) Sprung Mass

Removal of the above equals -26.71 kg (-58.84 lbs.). Unsprung mass is typically equal to 4X the removal of sprung mass. Accounting for that, removal of the above equals -80.5 kg (-177.4 lbs.) in sprung mass. Adding in the "free weight reduction" equals -84.31 kg (-185.8lbs.).

 

[blueroadster]

I shaved about 400lbs off my TLX Type S, trying for a more balanced weight distr. Problem is? Remove 40lb's from the 'rear mount' battery makes it MORE nose heavy! LOL.

And the way the car handles from the get go, you need to balance that weight reduction: Take out the rear seats....put a lighter battery up front....etc....

My first weight reducing act? Wheels and brakes! Shave about 13lbs per corner makes a WORLD of difference!

A balancing act for sure!

Removal of unsprung weight is the golden ticket. After that...Consider weight reduction between the front and rear axles while maintaining the same weight distribution ratio as the car was designed to support. In the same token, be mindful of weight added or removed outside of the front and rear axels as handling is impacted.

 

[jcb]

Driver body mass.....the easiest to do and often most effective.

Forged wheels (don't go so light as to be weak/easy to damage....). I went OEM forged to keep the car at ET60...that matters for torque steer minimization.

Tires can be shockingly different in weight too...so look at the combination of tire and wheel...note the tire is further out on the "lever" so they matter more than the wheel in some ways.... Continentals can be lbs lighter than Michelin...but I love the bespoke Pilots...so not in my plans.

Battery - lithium can be costly too and not like cold weather....but is shockingly lighter. These cars have a relatively "small" battery so not as big a deal as on some cars. One can also put smaller AGM batteries in..standard caveats.

Lug nuts....these are NOT worth it in my opinion as reliable torque matters....this typically creates a thread. I had ti once....now I am sticking with steel oem....

Floor mats.....the oem ones are very light...so not much to gain...

Trunk stuff (pumps/fluids/jacks....I do not recommend this unless you are on track and worried about tenths..... flats happen...).

Rear wing - the optional carbon one saves a few pounds but supposedly increases drag.


Honda did a great job - save your body mass and wheels, the rest is not really all that helpful. IMHO.

Added weight helps too:
I added some weight back: PRL rear motor mount, acuity shifter, acuity pedal thing to make the gas pedal and brake pedal more level. Well worth it. I plan to add a fire extinguisher too (the red/yellow small ones..the sticks...very light...and a 3d printed mount...).



jb

 

[Cueyo]

So would something like a lighter battery be a bad idea if you're not cutting weight from the rear (regardless of being between the front axles)?

 

[TypeRbuilder]

Disagree on the tire/wheel weight. cars feels much more lively shaving 13lbs per corner off the weight! Between rubber/wheels/brakes. HUGE difference in feel.

And the Racesang Ti lugnuts I have used for years are just wicked!

Lithium battery is a NON issue in the cold, unless you leave your car unattended for a LONG periods not on a trickle charger. EVERY battery is suspect to cold at that point. Ran a lithium on my TLX Type S for 2 winters, in CLE, with subzero temps and never had an issue. Just shaved 40lbs off the car and have better voltage!

Just a heads up.....

 

[TypeRbuilder]

So would something like a lighter battery be a bad idea if you're not cutting weight from the rear (regardless of being between the front axles)?

That was my thought....drop some FRONT bias weight....but then the car is built on that front bias weight. I'm going with a Li battery here soon, wish my H7 fit the civic, but just too long! Dropping 40lbs from the nose is tempting....but how does it effect handling then??

 

[jcb]

On track the ti/steel/lube always creates torque spec issues.......just clarifying. Had a Li battery die on me on an F-type left in the cold for one week with it being fully charged and no known electrical issues.....ymmv. Not a fun day as you need power to open the trunk where it sits.... I had the special built in booster model of battery....the little remote's battery also was bad (6m after buying). It will be a while before I drop 900 on a Li battery again..

 

[Cueyo]

On track the ti/steel/lube always creates torque spec issues.......just clarifying. Had a Li battery die on me on an F-type left in the cold for one week with it being fully charged and no known electrical issues.....ymmv. Not a fun day as you need power to open the trunk where it sits.... I had the special built in booster model of battery....the little remote's battery also was bad (6m after buying). It will be a while before I drop 900 on a Li battery again..

Which brand did you get? Anti gravity?

 

[jcb]

Which brand did you get? Anti gravity?

I don't want to slam the brand as it may have been the Jaguar's electronics too (the fob was a freak issue....) - but you can figure it out via feature noted....who has a remote backup fob...

If you do by a Lithium battery, AntiGravity is probably the best one to get if not offered OEM (warranty, like on a Porsche). They stand behind their product and when there is a problem, they fix it or take it back...

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