Noises from the rear after RV6 components installed.

[Type-JZ]

i have all the bars from RV6 on my FK8. Including compliance bushing. I'm only missing the larger rear trailing arm and the front control arm smaller solid bushings. I've been tracking and chasing noises for the last 7 years lol. I don't think you'll completely rid of them. Comes with the territory. The noise and force need to go somewhere. Metal bearing heim joints start to make everything more solid/fixed vs if you had OEM rubber that absorbs.
The rears, nothing you can do if you've already made sure your sway bar is properly loaded weighted on the ground when you tighten and everything else is torqued properly. Long as youre not getting loud clunks or noises, you should be good. I have 12k/16k rate springs and the rear i can hear creaking noises going over slow bumps. The fronts i'm still chasing because i have this louder creak. Sounds like metal grinding. Recently, i'm leaning towards the compliance bushing. I noticed there's a naca duct right in front of it in the undertray. Coincidently, this creaking noise is louder when the car is hot. When its cool, that noise isn't there. I've tried to grease it and the grease does actually quiet it down, but not long. Not really related to the creaking noise, the other clunking noise(that is if you have clunking noise), i've heard of people reporting replacing thestopper link fixed the clunking in the front.
GL!

Sponsored

 

[SCVanguard]

Resurrecting this thread, because now I have a totally different noise than the standard clunkiness of an endlink.

A reminder - all I have is the bar + endlinks as the LCA are not SCCA street class legal.

A few months ago, I noticed this random oscillating squeak (sounds like an NBA game with sneakers on the hardwood floor) but only when turning left coming from the passenger rear. This was when I remembered that I couldn't get that endlink into the stiffest setting and figured some driving would loosen that bearing up enough to adjust it easer.

So I get under the car, loosen everything up, change the endlink to the stiff setting, and realize that the bar was shifted almost completely toward the driver side. I knocked the bar back over to center it and tightened everything down.

The squeak went away when turning left. Now it does it when driving straight.

I got under the car last week and completely removed the brackets and bushings to the subframe and white lithium greased the ever loving hell out of the thing. Bolted it back in, and the squeak is still there.

I emailed RV6 and they are telling me to silicone lubricate the bearings in the endlinks. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'm taking it off the car and getting a different bar.

 

[Chilly613]

Resurrecting this thread, because now I have a totally different noise than the standard clunkiness of an endlink.

A reminder - all I have is the bar + endlinks as the LCA are not SCCA street class legal.

A few months ago, I noticed this random oscillating squeak (sounds like an NBA game with sneakers on the hardwood floor) but only when turning left coming from the passenger rear. This was when I remembered that I couldn't get that endlink into the stiffest setting and figured some driving would loosen that bearing up enough to adjust it easer.

So I get under the car, loosen everything up, change the endlink to the stiff setting, and realize that the bar was shifted almost completely toward the driver side. I knocked the bar back over to center it and tightened everything down.

The squeak went away when turning left. Now it does it when driving straight.

I got under the car last week and completely removed the brackets and bushings to the subframe and white lithium greased the ever loving hell out of the thing. Bolted it back in, and the squeak is still there.

I emailed RV6 and they are telling me to silicone lubricate the bearings in the endlinks. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'm taking it off the car and getting a different bar.

If you're using any type of endlinks that are all metal with spherical bushings there is going to be a little noise. Check out the end links from Whiteline if lubricating the bearings doesn't work out. They're adjustable, but so far they have not made any noise compared any all metal endlinks I've used previously.

 

[ttccnn49]

I had a shop installed my sway bar and endlink. There is no squeaking sound that I can here. But when the road is not smooth, I will hear thump from the back. Does that sound normal to everyone?

 

[B16B]

I had a small squeak with my Spoon rear bar and I ended up using Energy Bushing grease on the insides of the bushing and it went away. I'm also using the Accord end links and I don't get any sort of noise over bumps and such.

 

[NC_R]

I'm considering an RV6 rear sway bar for sharper / tighter steering response.

After reading this thread I thought I would check back in and see if anyone had any updated thoughts after running these for a while. I'm pretty sure I want to install one but just wanted to make sure people were happy with them before buying one.

 

[svvitch]

I think use OEM end links. The spherical will just make noise.

 

[2025-Si]

I had a shop installed my sway bar and endlink. There is no squeaking sound that I can here. But when the road is not smooth, I will hear thump from the back. Does that sound normal to everyone?

I think I'm in the same situation here. Initially, I thought it might be stuff in my trunk that was causing the noise, or maybe the floorboard was moving up and down when I went over uneven surfaces. It's weird that it only seems to be coming from the right side or at least when the rear right wheel goes over the uneven surface. I don't hear the same noise when the left rear wheel goes over uneven surfaces. Did you ever find an answer to your problem?

Edit: My setup is a whiteline rear sway bar with Accord metal and links.

 

[Higgs Boson]

Aside from the good suggestions already made like grease, adjustable end links, etc, it's also good practice to torque everything down under the vehicle's weight, like on a 4 post lift, rather than with everything hanging.

 

[Cueyo]

Aside from the good suggestions already made like grease, adjustable end links, etc, it's also good practice to torque everything down under the vehicle's weight, like on a 4 post lift, rather than with everything hanging.

The good shops that do suspension work do this, specifically with pre-load. Ideally you'd want the shop to preload the suspension to your weight, but not many do haha

 

[ttccnn49]

I think I'm in the same situation here. Initially, I thought it might be stuff in my trunk that was causing the noise, or maybe the floorboard was moving up and down when I went over uneven surfaces. It's weird that it only seems to be coming from the right side or at least when the rear right wheel goes over the uneven surface. I don't hear the same noise when the left rear wheel goes over uneven surfaces. Did you ever find an answer to your problem?

Edit: My setup is a whiteline rear sway bar with Accord metal and links.

No, I have no solution with that. the OE endlink is not a solid metal like RV6 end link, so if you go with the OE endlink, that should solve the issue.

Sponsored