What did you do to your FL5 today?

[MrB]

Agreed. Everyone's need is different and "loudness" and "tone" are very subjective. Best advice I can give to anyone consider changing exhaust is to try to listen to a setup similar to what you're considering in person if you can. Otherwise, it's just a crap shoot. No youtube video can truly convey how it will actually sound like in real life!

Definitely agree, I think a 5-10% increase over stock would be perfect for me I am planning to enter some sprints and hillclimbs next year and want to keep the standard system so I can stay in the standard roadgoing class.

Sponsored

 

[Wogboy]

rate the shine....washed with my favourite car wash Autoglym UD Shampoo and gave her a polish with "303 Spray Wax".....used "Turtle Wax Tyre Shine Wet Look" for the wheels

still getting a few compliments for the Jap Type R decals which is an added bonus

 

[TheFactor]

rate the shine....washed with my favourite car wash Autoglym UD Shampoo and gave her a polish with "303 Spray Wax".....used "Turtle Wax Tyre Shine Wet Look" for the wheels

still getting a few compliments for the Jap Type R decals which is an added bonus

Whoot Whoot looking good !

 

[zumbooruk]

8k miles. Second oil and filter change (PUP 5w-30 and the last of my Fram Ultra Synthetic), first MTF change (GM Synchromesh), rotated tires (front straight to rear, rear cross to front)

Few observations, and questions:

The first oil change was at 3k, but after 5k miles, the used oil came out black as could be.

The maintenance minder showed 40% oil life left.

Is the very dark oil color much of a concern? or is it normal for the K20C1?

For the people that change at 3k, how dark is your oil?

I did not have a used oil analysis kit, I'll order one before the next oil change

Any recommendation for a lab?

The ValvoMax made the oil change quick and easy, not a drop of used oil, and no mess to clean up

https://www.valvomax.com

Note though that the ValvoMax site does not mention the mess replacing the oil filter, they completely ignore that part of the oil change...

I wrapped a bread bag (thin, long, narrow) around the oil filter, yet oil still spilled out (into the catch basin)

I used a small file to cut notches all around on the front, back, and sides of the orange plastic tip, (so I can see if the oil reaches and fills the notches), also sanded the plastic to dull it (so I can better see the shiny new oil), yet reading is still a pain, I had to take multiple readings to verify correct level.

the back of the dipstick had some oil going up about three to four inches on the metal part, and it was hard to determine oil level on the back. so I relied on the front reading.


For the MTF, I used a 500ml syringe to fill the MTF via the fluid check port.

https://www.amazon.com/Shcobomo-Extractor-Automotive-Transfer-Evacuator/dp/B0GGRQFSYJ

I had to rig an adapter from a thin rigid straw, that I found at home, since syringe tube was not thin enough to fit into the hole.
similar to these:

https://www.amazon.com/Soledea-Reusable-Valentines-Christmas-Decoration/dp/B0D6RDMZD2

I cut the straw to get a piece that curved about 90 degrees, then inserted the straw into the thicker syringe tube, sealed with silicon tape (sorry, I do not have a picture, and everything is back in the cabinet)

It took a long time to squirt the fluid in through the tiny hole, but probably still faster than removing everything and filling from the top?


One thing that does not make sense: I drained 2 quarts (used MTF exactly fit into two 1qt bottles), yet I filled exactly 2.3qt of new MTF. make sense to drain 2qt if 0.3 is trapped in the system, but then I'd expect to fill only 2qt. or drain about 2.3qt and fill 2.3qt. but does not make sense to drain 2qt and fill 2.3qt...

I could not tell a difference in shifting during a short test drive with the Syncromesh, but I never drive hard nor shift fast till the car is at least ten minutes at operating temps.


I got the low profile ramps mentioned on this forum.

https://www.amazon.com/MAXXHAUL-50516-Capacity-Profile-2-Pack/dp/B08KFNZJHP

It was much easier driving onto the ramps and being able to access the front lift point, then two jack stands in the front (vs one side at a time)

The car was slightly tilted back, so I used the rear lift point to raise the back, but I did not want to jack the rear higher than the front and therefore could not fit the jack stands at the rear, so I moved the ramps under the rear wheels. anyway, I was not crawling under the rear, so not much of a safety issue...

 

[TheFactor]

Beautiful day !

 

[TypeRD]

Silverstone, nice! I like this colour, my first s2k was an SSM AP2v2.

Thanks! With the red interior too, I just couldn’t resist.

 

[SpoolinFK8]

Last purchase Mod for the FL5. I’m going to cut out the 2.36” neck down flange portion and make it a true 70mm(2.75”) exhaust. But otherwise it sounds good with no drone Valve close.

 

[TheFactor]

Sorry edited trying some tube ,
Nice short rip down the coast

 

[dwag88]

8k miles. Second oil and filter change (PUP 5w-30 and the last of my Fram Ultra Synthetic), first MTF change (GM Synchromesh), rotated tires (front straight to rear, rear cross to front)

Few observations, and questions:

The first oil change was at 3k, but after 5k miles, the used oil came out black as could be.

The maintenance minder showed 40% oil life left.

Is the very dark oil color much of a concern? or is it normal for the K20C1?

For the people that change at 3k, how dark is your oil?

I did not have a used oil analysis kit, I'll order one before the next oil change

Any recommendation for a lab?

The ValvoMax made the oil change quick and easy, not a drop of used oil, and no mess to clean up

https://www.valvomax.com

Note though that the ValvoMax site does not mention the mess replacing the oil filter, they completely ignore that part of the oil change...

I wrapped a bread bag (thin, long, narrow) around the oil filter, yet oil still spilled out (into the catch basin)

I used a small file to cut notches all around on the front, back, and sides of the orange plastic tip, (so I can see if the oil reaches and fills the notches), also sanded the plastic to dull it (so I can better see the shiny new oil), yet reading is still a pain, I had to take multiple readings to verify correct level.

the back of the dipstick had some oil going up about three to four inches on the metal part, and it was hard to determine oil level on the back. so I relied on the front reading.


For the MTF, I used a 500ml syringe to fill the MTF via the fluid check port.

https://www.amazon.com/Shcobomo-Extractor-Automotive-Transfer-Evacuator/dp/B0GGRQFSYJ

I had to rig an adapter from a thin rigid straw, that I found at home, since syringe tube was not thin enough to fit into the hole.
similar to these:

https://www.amazon.com/Soledea-Reusable-Valentines-Christmas-Decoration/dp/B0D6RDMZD2

I cut the straw to get a piece that curved about 90 degrees, then inserted the straw into the thicker syringe tube, sealed with silicon tape (sorry, I do not have a picture, and everything is back in the cabinet)

It took a long time to squirt the fluid in through the tiny hole, but probably still faster than removing everything and filling from the top?


One thing that does not make sense: I drained 2 quarts (used MTF exactly fit into two 1qt bottles), yet I filled exactly 2.3qt of new MTF. make sense to drain 2qt if 0.3 is trapped in the system, but then I'd expect to fill only 2qt. or drain about 2.3qt and fill 2.3qt. but does not make sense to drain 2qt and fill 2.3qt...

I could not tell a difference in shifting during a short test drive with the Syncromesh, but I never drive hard nor shift fast till the car is at least ten minutes at operating temps.


I got the low profile ramps mentioned on this forum.

https://www.amazon.com/MAXXHAUL-50516-Capacity-Profile-2-Pack/dp/B08KFNZJHP

It was much easier driving onto the ramps and being able to access the front lift point, then two jack stands in the front (vs one side at a time)

The car was slightly tilted back, so I used the rear lift point to raise the back, but I did not want to jack the rear higher than the front and therefore could not fit the jack stands at the rear, so I moved the ramps under the rear wheels. anyway, I was not crawling under the rear, so not much of a safety issue...

In my experience with direct injected engines, you can't judge the quality of the oil by the color. It turns black almost immediately. It was likely still fine. I'm more curious why you changed the MTF so soon?

 

[jtlctr]

Nothing too exciting. My original tires were getting close to the wear bars and loud as hell. I’m about to take a little road trip, so I had a new set of tires mounted. Thought I’d give the Kumho Ecsta Sport S a try. Tire Rack claims they perform as well or better than most other tires in the max performance summer category, but are nicer on the road. I’ve only put about 50 miles on them so far, but I can say they’re way quieter and the impact harshness is greatly diminished compared to the PS4S. However, there is a noticeable loss in steering directness off center which is a bummer. Hopefully, that’s just the mold release agents working out.

 

[zumbooruk]

In my experience with direct injected engines, you can't judge the quality of the oil by the color. It turns black almost immediately. It was likely still fine. I'm more curious why you changed the MTF so soon?

Thanks!

I found similar answers elsewhere on the web.

I am a very good worrier, a recovering perfectionist (yet keep falling off the wagon), suffer from CDO (which is like OCD but a bit more severe as the letters are arranged in the proper alphabetical order...) and I want to keep my FL5 forever...

so... I research everything, best engine oils, best oil filters, MTF, heat soak management, tires, air intake, ECU flush, coolant expansion tank, spark plugs and gaps, brake pads, sway bar and other suspension stuff, etc, etc, etc,

Two reasons for the "early" GM Synchromesh MTF change

1- Remove fine metal particles and glitter generated during initial break-in wear before they contribute to accelerated wear

2- Upgrade to GM Synchromesh for smoother shifts, reduced notchiness or grind, and better synchro performance compared with stock Honda MTF.

Shifting indeed seems smoother now that I drove a longer drive.

see:

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/fl5-de5-transmission-fluid-reference.63072/

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/favorite-mtf-amsoil-redine-motul-torco-honda-etc.54293/

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/transmission-fluid.56132/

 

[jtlctr]

I am a very good worrier, a recovering perfectionist (yet keep falling off the wagon), suffer from CDO (which is like OCD but a bit more severe as the letters are arranged in the proper alphabetical order...) and I want to keep my FL5 forever...

so... I research everything, best engine oils, best oil filters, MTF, heat soak management, tires, air intake, ECU flush, coolant expansion tank, spark plugs and gaps, brake pads, sway bar and other suspension stuff, etc, etc, etc,

lol! You’re in good company, my friend! I can go down the rabbit hole on anything. It’s brutal sometimes. It can be fun with hobbies, but I have to catch myself when I start agonizing over which socks to buy

 

[Bishop]

Installed this guy today.

 

[getRIGHT]

King does not recommend that button on an FL5. Here’s a Facebook post they made awhile back. Hopefully you don’t have any problems with it

 

[Bishop]

King does not recommend that button on an FL5. Here’s a Facebook post they made awhile back. Hopefully you don’t have any problems with it

Thanks for the heads up. I was aware of the potential issues. This one came with a wiring harness. I also have the stock one in the car just in case.