Wheel dilemma

[NC_R]

So, I know this has been discussed before but really struggling with a wheel decision. Thought I may try to get some feedback before making a decision.

I would like to go with a lighter forged wheel option in order to reduce upsprung weight and make the car feel a little lighter on it's feet, more nimble, more crisp, perform a little better, etc.

What I want is to make the turn in feel shaper and more direct more crisp type of thing which is why I want to be careful here.

I'm looking at 19x9.5 wheels like Titan 7 TS5 or something like that which is ~20lbs (or apex VS5RS1 at 19lbs) but has a 45mm offset, I'm a little worried that the offset moving from the 60mm offset may reduce something that I want to improve or at least retain which is the sharp steering response.

Just curious if anyone has any feedback on 60mm vs 45mm offset and if I would notice any change in steering feel.....I know this has been discussed in the past, but it's been a while so maybe there is so updated feedback out there.

Of course my safe option is the OEM forged ones that are about 21lbs with the 60mm offset, not the lightest or exactly my favorite looks wise (though I do like them), but perfect plug and play and could still drop about 21lbs of total unsprung weight

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[optronix]

First of all I wouldn't necessarily want you to get your hopes up of wheels having a noticeable difference in how the car feels. It is minimal, if not negligible. There's no denying that lighter wheels reduces unsprung weight and therefore improves performance- but I'd stop short of suggesting that's anything you're going to be able to feel from a seat-of-your-pants perspective.

As for offset, it's funny that this topic doesn't actually have much as far as data points or testimonials, for as often as it's brought up. But you absolutely have a valid concern there, because I had the same concern myself. There's all this buzz around Honda's dual-axis strut design, and somehow that messaging got distilled to make people think that it's this delicate system that reacts dramatically to subtle changes.

Well, it does and it doesn't. I've had my car for almost 3 years now and have done quite a few things to change the dynamics of the OEM suspension. The first was changing to your exact spec, Apex VS-5RS in 19 x 9.5 +45. One of the very few things I dislike about the OEM design of this platform (I have a DE5) is the "sunken in" OEM offset, and +45 does a good job of correcting that aesthetic. I kept the OEM Michelins so that keeps the variables limited so I know any difference will be directly attributed to the change in offset. I will say that there's a slight difference in feel- but I'd place it as neither "good" nor "bad", just "different". One could argue there is slightly more torque steer but it's one of those things you have to be actively looking for to notice- slight enough it may actually be all in my head. Not something I think about under normal circumstances.

Now, what I will tell you is when I change back to my OEM wheels with all-seasons on them, it is a DEFINITE difference. For the worst, I kind of hate all-seasons on this car, I feel that they almost ruin it lol. I'm being facetious, but it's even more pronounced now that I've moved to 200 TW tires on the Apex's. So changing tire compound is far more noticeable than changing wheels. FAR MORE.

So from me you have one testimonial that suggests it's perfectly acceptable to change out your OEM offset, and +45 is a very popular option.

Now all that being said, once you start going down the rabbit hole of additional suspensions mods, you will start having to think about things else start introducing negative attributes. For example, lowering the car on springs will negatively impact the camber bias by introducing more camber in the rear than the front. I'm here to tell you that absolutely does impact the handling characteristics of the car, and I had to add lower ball joints to increase front camber to correct it. It turns in and rotates amazingly well now (far better than OEM), BUT I still experience bump steer under certain conditions and have yet to figure out the best way to dial that out.

It's a cat-and-mouse game but fortunately there's lots of folks on here who have gone through this already (or are going through it...), so you came to the right place.

 

[ModJPB]

You are not going to notice a 6lbs difference in wheel weight reduction per corner. It would have to be around a 15lbs reduction before it makes a difference and even then it is minor.

You will notice going from the OEM 60mm to a 45mm. 15mm or 0.6" will not only be visually noticeable but that's enough to change the handling of the car. Wider is more stable but less nimble, depending on what type of driving you want i.e. autoX vs track style.

Unless you are doing wheels for aesthetics, save your money for other modifications. If you're looking to improve turn in then here are some ideas.

• Larger rear sway bar for more oversteer.
• Stiffer front control arm bushings, anti-lift kit, or the whole control arm with bushings installed like linked here. Steering input will be consistent and sharp and keeps front from flexing and changing alignment under hard cornering.
• +1 wheel diameter with lower profile tire, will make steering sharp. Will be uncomfortable and more suspectable to pot hole blow outs and wheel damage.
• Lowering springs with roll center correction kit and anti lift kit (can skip if you did the second option to). Just go minor lowering or you'll get adverse performance.
• Subframe Collar insert Kit. Minor change but has no downsides.
• Frame braces like front upper strut bar. Mixed opinions if these do anything for this car since it is already a stiff frame .

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

Hi, and welcome!

Just throwing in my 2 cents.
MITA Motorsports makes custom forged wheels in Japan, and ships to the US from Hong Kong, via Chinese carrier...

https://www.mitamotorsports.com/​

I bought a set of MITA FKS wheels last summer, 2025, and they're pretty awesome. Of course, I went with a smaller size 18X9.0J, offset ET+45, for looks, comfort, and a nice range of tire options.

My FKS wheels. (You may disgregard the Nascar balloon tires.)

These wheels weigh in at about 18 and a half pounds each. 19X9.5 will of course be heavier, as will a meatier built wheel.
Give MITA Motorsports a look see before you squeege the trigger on anything 100%.

Cheers.

 

[optronix]

You are not going to notice a 6lbs difference in wheel weight reduction per corner. It would have to be around a 15lbs reduction before it makes a difference and even then it is minor.

You will notice going from the OEM 60mm to a 45mm. 15mm or 0.6" will not only be visually noticeable but that's enough to change the handling of the car. Wider is more stable but less nimble, depending on what type of driving you want i.e. autoX vs track style.

Unless you are doing wheels for aesthetics, save your money for other modifications. If you're looking to improve turn in then here are some ideas.

• Larger rear sway bar for more oversteer.
• Stiffer front control arm bushings, anti-lift kit, or the whole control arm with bushings installed like linked here. Steering input will be consistent and sharp and keeps front from flexing and changing alignment under hard cornering.
• +1 wheel diameter with lower profile tire, will make steering sharp. Will be uncomfortable and more suspectable to pot hole blow outs and wheel damage.
• Lowering springs with roll center correction kit and anti lift kit (can skip if you did the second option to). Just go minor lowering or you'll get adverse performance.
• Subframe Collar insert Kit. Minor change but has no downsides.
• Frame braces like front upper strut bar. Mixed opinions if these do anything for this car since it is already a stiff frame .

I know tone and intent doesn't come off well in text format but I don't know what other way to put this, but- this post doesn't have any weight behind it because you haven't gone through this yourself. I see in your sig you don't have an FL5.

For anyone seeking opinions, start by looking for real world testimonials by people who have actually experienced the things you're looking to assess/validate.

You can literally get a better response out of ChatGPT (but it still hallucinates...):


You’re asking the right question — not just “will it fit?” but “will it change the way the car feels?” That’s the seasoned-owner question

Since you’re almost certainly talking about a Honda Civic Type R (FL5) (or same geometry as the Acura Integra Type S (DE5)), here’s how I’d think about it.

First: What Actually Changes Between +60 and +45?
Let’s break this into objective geometry.

Moving from +60 mm to +45 mm offset:

• Pushes the wheel 15 mm outward
• Increases front track width by ~30 mm total
• Slightly changes scrub radius

Why Scrub Radius Matters
Honda engineered the FL5 with a very small (near-neutral) scrub radius.
That’s part of why torque steer is so well controlled compared to older CTRs.

Reducing offset (going to +45):

• Increases positive scrub radius
• Increases steering effort slightly
• Can increase kickback over bumps
• Can slightly increase torque steer under heavy throttle

This isn’t theoretical — it’s basic suspension geometry (SAE Vehicle Dynamics, Milliken & Milliken).

But here’s the important part:

15 mm is not drastic.
It’s noticeable to sensitive drivers, but it is not going to suddenly ruin the car’s front-end precision. Plenty of FL5 owners run +45 without destroying steering feel.

Now Let’s Talk Weight (This Matters More Than Offset)
You’re going from:

• OEM forged: ~21 lbs
• Titan 7 TS5: ~20 lbs
• Apex VS-5RS: ~19 lbs

That’s a 1–2 lb per wheel difference from OEM forged.

Unsprung + rotational mass reduction absolutely helps:

• Turn-in sharpness
• Ride quality over small bumps
• Acceleration response

There’s solid physics behind this:
Reducing rotational inertia has a larger effect than static mass reduction (Carroll Smith, Tune to Win).

BUT…

A 1–2 lb difference per wheel is modest. You will feel it, but it won’t transform the car.

What Actually Affects Turn-In More Than Offset
If your goal is:

“Sharper, more direct, more crisp turn-in”

These matter more:

1. Tire sidewall stiffness
2. Alignment (front toe + camber)
3. Wheel width
4. Tire construction

You’re going to 19x9.5 — good move.
A wider wheel properly supporting a 265 tire will sharpen response more than offset change will.

Real-World Anecdotal Evidence (FL5 Owners)
On forums and track groups:

• +45 9.5 setups are common
• Steering feel remains precise
• Some report slightly heavier steering at low speed
• No major degradation in “Honda sharpness”

Track guys typically report more improvement from:

• Lighter wheel
• Stickier tire
• Proper camber
  than from staying at +60.

The OEM 60mm Option
Your OEM forged option:

• Maintains engineered scrub radius
• Zero fitment guesswork
• Zero fender risk
• Slightly heavier
• Conservative aesthetic

It’s the safest geometry choice.

If your absolute top priority is preserving factory steering purity?
Stick to +60.

The Honest Answer
If you:

• Track occasionally
• Drive spiritedly
• Care about aesthetics
• Want noticeable sharpness gain

→ 19x9.5 +45 at ~19–20 lbs is completely reasonable

You will not suddenly lose the crisp Honda front end.

If you:

• Are extremely sensitive to steering nuance
• Want maximum OEM engineering intent
• Prefer zero compromise

→ OEM forged +60

My Opinion As a Long-Time Forum Guy
The difference between +60 and +45 is smaller than the difference between:

• Stock tire vs. a stiff 200TW tire
• 0 toe vs. slight toe-out
• -1.5° camber vs. -2.5°

Offset is the most over-feared variable in this discussion.

If it were my money and I preferred the Titan 7 or Apex aesthetically?
I’d run the +45 and not look back.

If you want, tell me:

• Daily or track focus?
• Tire size you’re planning?
• Any suspension mods?

That context changes the recommendation slightly.

 

[ModJPB]

I know tone and intent doesn't come off well in text format but I don't know what other way to put this, but- this post doesn't have any weight behind it because you haven't gone through this yourself. I see in your sig you don't have an FL5.

For anyone seeking opinions, start by looking for real world testimonials by people who have actually experienced the things you're looking to assess/validate.

You can literally get a better response out of ChatGPT (but it still hallucinates...):


You’re asking the right question — not just “will it fit?” but “will it change the way the car feels?” That’s the seasoned-owner question

How to say this without apparently sounding like "AI" again, but a car is a car. 95% of tuning cars is universal. I've been tuning Honda/Acura for 30 years now. Why does not owning an FL5 make my suggestions irrelevant!?! Only reason I bought an FL1 was because I developed arthritis in my left knee, I can't drive manual anymore

My suggestions were a more affordable way to get the ops desired affect. Hate for him to drop $2k+ and really not notice much difference or worse a different than desired affect. Op asked for a specific handling change "crisp turning" so i focused only on that desire. This is usually a low speed tight course situation, which I'm assuming AutoX.

optronix, You have good information, from my own experience and the physics (I know because I teach physics). Stuff like a slightly lighter wheel, I'm not saying doesn't give a performance advantage, it's just the advantage is so small it's not noticeable enough to warrant the price when other changes have a much greater affect and are far cheaper.

 

[ctechauto]

FWIW - Adjusting (increasing) negative camber and/or changing tires is a larger effect on steering response and turn-in than slightly lighter wheels or reducing wheel offset, if that is the primary goal here.

 

[optronix]

How to say this without apparently sounding like "AI" again, but a car is a car. 95% of tuning cars is universal. I've been tuning Honda/Acura for 30 years now. Why does not owning an FL5 make my suggestions irrelevant!?! Only reason I bought an FL1 was because I developed arthritis in my left knee, I can't drive manual anymore

My suggestions were a more affordable way to get the ops desired affect. Hate for him to drop $2k+ and really not notice much difference or worse a different than desired affect. Op asked for a specific handling change "crisp turning" so i focused only on that desire. This is usually a low speed tight course situation, which I'm assuming AutoX.

optronix, You have good information, from my own experience and the physics (I know because I teach physics). Stuff like a slightly lighter wheel, I'm not saying doesn't give a performance advantage, it's just the advantage is so small it's not noticeable enough to warrant the price when other changes have a much greater affect and are far cheaper.

Right, I could have approached my response differently. The OP specifically requested feedback on changing from +60 to +45, which is a very platform-specific question. You responded with some generic factoids and effectively tried to talk him out of the topic he was interested in.

It seemed like you undercut my messaging and I overreacted. I have a tendency to do that on these forums for some reason and it's a terrible habit I'm working on improving. I am very sorry about your knee- I tore my ACL several years ago and it's been a pain in the ass but I've learned to live with it. I respect and appreciate educators so I genuinely apologize for my behavior.

 

[pawnstar]

So, I know this has been discussed before but really struggling with a wheel decision. Thought I may try to get some feedback before making a decision.

I would like to go with a lighter forged wheel option in order to reduce upsprung weight and make the car feel a little lighter on it's feet, more nimble, more crisp, perform a little better, etc.

What I want is to make the turn in feel shaper and more direct more crisp type of thing which is why I want to be careful here.

I'm looking at 19x9.5 wheels like Titan 7 TS5 or something like that which is ~20lbs (or apex VS5RS1 at 19lbs) but has a 45mm offset, I'm a little worried that the offset moving from the 60mm offset may reduce something that I want to improve or at least retain which is the sharp steering response.

Just curious if anyone has any feedback on 60mm vs 45mm offset and if I would notice any change in steering feel.....I know this has been discussed in the past, but it's been a while so maybe there is so updated feedback out there.

Of course my safe option is the OEM forged ones that are about 21lbs with the 60mm offset, not the lightest or exactly my favorite looks wise (though I do like them), but perfect plug and play and could still drop about 21lbs of total unsprung weight

I have a set of new 19x9.5 Bronze Titan 7 TD-6 wheels for sale.

 

[NC_R]

Wow, blown away by all of the thoughtful responses, I am very much appreciative of all the help!

It seems that the decision is not quite so black and white and binary, thus the differing thoughts and opinions.

>>> Maybe to refocus the question and intent. I would say that I am a driving enthusiast who enjoys razor sharp, direct, responsive steering AND also like the car to feel light, nimble, eager to change direction (gokart like, though that term might be overused).

>>>2nd note to normalize the data, my objective is driving feel and enjoyment behind the wheel so I will place the "aesthetics" on the backburner just to keep the decision more focused. Also worth noting this is not a track car, I just enjoy driving it around town, backroads and in the NC mountains when I have the time to.

1: From what I can gather it seems like the lighter wheels (apex, titan) are not really going to move the needle with the drop in unsprung weight. However, may run the risk of slightly reduced steering response and perhaps introduce a little more torque steer so could yield an overall negative net gain.

With that said if I do want to try and reduce the weight the OEM forged ones would not hurt anything and may yield some slightly better results.

2: For what I am looking for my better options may be
a) stiffer rear sway bar like the one RV6 makes
b) Alinement: Aim for (-2) degrees of negative camber
c) Stiffer front control arm bushings
d) (I have a read motor mount) but could run the full motor mount (left and right) set like the one Wunderladen racing offers. I can tolerate some NVH....in a way I kind of like the vibration feel makes the car feel more analog and raw.

I think that is what I'm getting from the responses so far.

 

[Jack90210]

Wow, blown away by all of the thoughtful responses, I am very much appreciative of all the help!

It seems that the decision is not quite so black and white and binary, thus the differing thoughts and opinions.

>>> Maybe to refocus the question and intent. I would say that I am a driving enthusiast who enjoys razor sharp, direct, responsive steering AND also like the car to feel light, nimble, eager to change direction (gokart like, though that term might be overused).

>>>2nd note to normalize the data, my objective is driving feel and enjoyment behind the wheel so I will place the "aesthetics" on the backburner just to keep the decision more focused. Also worth noting this is not a track car, I just enjoy driving it around town, backroads and in the NC mountains when I have the time to.

1: From what I can gather it seems like the lighter wheels (apex, titan) are not really going to move the needle with the drop in unsprung weight. However, may run the risk of slightly reduced steering response and perhaps introduce a little more torque steer so could yield an overall negative net gain.

With that said if I do want to try and reduce the weight the OEM forged ones would not hurt anything and may yield some slightly better results.

2: For what I am looking for my better options may be
a) stiffer rear sway bar like the one RV6 makes
b) Alinement: Aim for (-2) degrees of negative camber
c) Stiffer front control arm bushings
d) (I have a read motor mount) but could run the full motor mount (left and right) set like the one Wunderladen racing offers. I can tolerate some NVH....in a way I kind of like the vibration feel makes the car feel more analog and raw.

I think that is what I'm getting from the responses so far.

My impression of the feel of the car is that the rear end is "squishy" and slow to respond to what the rest of the car is doing, and I'm planning on replacing the rear arms with RV6 or similar. I'll be curious to see how your experience with the wheels goes.

There's also a Making this car more raw? thread which you might be interested in.

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