God Spec info 18x10 +40 (pictures, alignment specs, tire info)

[Allthingsfl5]

18x10 +40 with 285/30/18

What’s your camber / modifications. I have the same set coming.

 

[ctechauto]

What’s your camber / modifications. I have the same set coming.

-3⁰ front camber, -2.5⁰ rear (could pull it back to -2⁰). Whiteline LBJ and also sakebomb garage camber plates (but the camber plates are set at zero), eibach rear UCAs, Ohlins R&T with shorter swift springs and helpers up front

 

[airs]

Finished coilovers, LBJs, and rear upper arms. The weather is improving so decided to put on the TE’s. Still need to put rigid collars in, dial in the height and get alignment next Monday.

 

[rondre3000]

Finished coilovers, LBJs, and rear upper arms. The weather is improving so decided to put on the TE’s. Still need to put rigid collars in, dial in the height and get alignment next Monday.

Which coilovers?

 

[airs]

Which coilovers?

RSR active coilovers (used the negative camber position)
Whiteline LBJs (currently on middle setting)
Whiteline rear upper arms (currently set to stock length)
PRL collars will go in this weekend - wish me luck!

 

[neilisnext]

RSR active coilovers (used the negative camber position)
Whiteline LBJs (currently on middle setting)
Whiteline rear upper arms (currently set to stock length)
PRL collars will go in this weekend - wish me luck!

How much camber are you running in the front?

 

[airs]

How much camber are you running in the front?

Not sure how to measure that accurately at home. The RSR negative camber position gives somewhere between -1 and -1.2 according to the manual, and the LBJs are supposed to be -1 at the middle setting but they also say “up to -3” so perhaps middle is -2? My digital angle tool says -3.5 currently if I put it on the rotor. Alignment on Monday.

 

[rondre3000]

RSR active coilovers (used the negative camber position)
Whiteline LBJs (currently on middle setting)
Whiteline rear upper arms (currently set to stock length)
PRL collars will go in this weekend - wish me luck!

Do you have the adjustable tophats for the RSR coilovers (up front) or is there a "more camber" setting available without them?

 

[SKINNIE]

Do you have the adjustable tophats for the RSR coilovers (up front) or is there a "more camber" setting available without them?

On the RS-R coilover without the adjustable pillow-ball mounts. You can turn the top hats 180° for more negative camber.

 

[rondre3000]

On the RS-R coilover without the adjustable pillow-ball mounts. You can turn the top hats 180° for more negative camber.

Oh wow, I wasn't aware of this. Thanks for the heads-up!

 

[0x1d7]

Wow this thread makes for far too many choices. I'm looking to replace my OEs. I assume with stock suspension, these should have zero fitment issues?

Spoon SW388 18"10J +40 5H120
Yokohama AD09 275/35/18

 

[rondre3000]

Wow this thread makes for far too many choices. I'm looking to replace my OEs. I assume with stock suspension, these should have zero fitment issues?

Spoon SW388 18"10J +40 5H120
Yokohama AD09 275/35/18

Other than wheel gap, you are correct.

 

[0x1d7]

Other than wheel gap, you are correct.

Is there an issue with the gap in this setup? Too little?

 

[HondaHoon]

Is there an issue with the gap in this setup? Too little?

No mechanical issues whatsoever. Only a cosmetic issue if the lowered stance is what you want. But factory ride height, on factory suspension, has been track proven to be effective. Ask @PointByPatrol

 

[optronix]

No mechanical issues whatsoever. Only a cosmetic issue if the lowered stance is what you want. But factory ride height, on factory suspension, has been track proven to be effective. Ask @PointByPatrol

Yeah lowering isn't anything that's required for performance- in fact it actually actively hinders it unless you take proactive steps to correct the camber issues it introduces (and then it's still almost certainly more compromised than OEM height although I'm not sure who's done actual comparisons or how scientific they are...). It just looks infinitely better (subjectively).

And usually since wheels are pretty much the same category of aesthetics over performance, the vast majority of owners who spend thousands on wheels and pay close attention to fitment will also elect to lower their cars as well.

My .02- if you aren't overly compelled to change how the car looks, just stop where you're at and save the money. None of this will make the car drive better. And you risk going down a rathole that may actually make you hate the car. No bullshit- it happened to me with a previous attempt at modding an STI. I swore I'd never do it again but here I am.

But for those of us caught up in the wheel game, there is no substitute. I tried and failed to keep my car stock, am aware of the compromises it introduced- and have no regrets.

But sadly I must wait until the set of RE-71RZ I ordered a few days ago come off backorder to see my god spec CE28s on my care, which could take months. Or I just give up and buy Yok's.

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