SCCA Street Touring/TT Tuner Sharing Thread

[BigBird]

It is coming together but with some hiccups.
I just got the JRZ suspension in but tried the Vitour tires up front and there were pretty bad.
Not only did they need heat to function but once they got up to temp, they would drop off toward the end of the run. This is with the 315s on an 11" wide wheel. I think I either got a bad batch (shipped from LV address that was rumored to be questionable, but Vitour USA vouched for), the size/wheel width combo isnt ideal for the car, or the tires just need a true full heat cycle and rest before they come in.

Then to top it all off my turbo blew

Hopefully I will have a chance to get some better seat time with the car next weekend after everything is all patched up.

The real high point of the build so far has been the OS diff.
I am having to re-learn the new threshold for aggressive early throttle.
Other than the occasional clunk at full lock, it has been quiet on Motul 75w90 fluid.

Lots of lessons there. Thanks for being a tester.

What happened with the turbo? Tune issue? Bad luck? Running a flame tune ? ?

I was thinking of go going with the Cusco 1.5 but I heard good things about the OSG on other platforms.

Sucks about the Vitours. If it's a bad batch, then shame on them, if they just don't work on this car, that also sucks.

Hopefully you'll get things squared away soon

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[optronix]

Revisiting this. I'm still putzing around trying to shame my local PCA buddies in their 981s. It's turning out ok... I can make some of the Supra and M2 guys look over their shoulders but my "build" is still far from dialed in. Basically intake/exhaust, lower ball joints @ -3.5 degrees, springs and 275 (19") Falken RT660+. It's actually pretty decent but I don't think I'd make any noise competitively.

Only confirmed upgrade is the RE-71RZ that should ship tomorrow (I moved to 18s). I'm thinking of dialing back the camber too because I ate one of my Falkens at < 1000 miles and 5 events and $400 a pop won't grow on trees (still need to validate where the toe is at though...). Also considering coilovers and a sway bar. I'm just wondering now if anyone has found substantial success at a national level with this platform?

 

[BigBird]

Revisiting this. I'm still putzing around trying to shame my local PCA buddies in their 981s. It's turning out ok... I can make some of the Supra and M2 guys look over their shoulders but my "build" is still far from dialed in. Basically intake/exhaust, lower ball joints @ -3.5 degrees, springs and 275 (19") Falken RT660+. It's actually pretty decent but I don't think I'd make any noise competitively.

Only confirmed upgrade is the RE-71RZ that should ship tomorrow (I moved to 18s). I'm thinking of dialing back the camber too because I ate one of my Falkens at < 1000 miles and 5 events and $400 a pop won't grow on trees (still need to validate where the toe is at though...). Also considering coilovers and a sway bar. I'm just wondering now if anyone has found substantial success at a national level with this platform?

660s are pretty much junk in comparison to the 71RZ, so that's a good upgrade

This car doesn't like too much front camber. I wouldn't do more than -2.7 And I've read the rears as well should be under -2. Closer to 0 the better, but never tried that.

If you are trying to run SCCA Tuner class, adjustable ball joints are illegal still.

 

[optronix]

660s are pretty much junk in comparison to the 71RZ, so that's a good upgrade

This car doesn't like too much front camber. I wouldn't do more than -2.7 And I've read the rears as well should be under -2. Closer to 0 the better, but never tried that.

If you are trying to run SCCA Tuner class, adjustable ball joints are illegal still.

Yep, the Falkens were my choice for trying to stick with 19s. Basically I got to choose between them, Nankang CRSv2, or Cup2. They were the first 200TW tires I've ever driven on so felt like night and day vs the PS4S, but I noticed I couldn't keep up with the fastest guys when it was wet or cold. I checked their tires and almost universally they were Bridgestone or Yokohama. One asshole in a Z4 was on PS4S but that dude apparently routinely places in nationals...

And when I say asshole he was an incredibly nice guy that's just the hate talking.

In any case it inspired me to go find a set of 18s and my RZs are expected to ship today.

And yep thanks for that- I knew it was one of the classes I was considering they were illegal and it was Tuner. I'm planning on moving to camber plates eventually when I switch to coils so maybe that would be legal? Probably not. I'm still not worried about class at this particular time but maybe I'll get serious next year.

I can't go back to stock camber. I like the way the car feels at -3.5 but I also can't keep losing tires. I want to validate where the toe is at now, and then I'll almost surely dial it back to -2.5. My rear camber is ~-2 so I'll probably leave it as is, especially with the rear sway bar.

 

[BigBird]

Yep, the Falkens were my choice for trying to stick with 19s. Basically I got to choose between them, Nankang CRSv2, or Cup2. They were the first 200TW tires I've ever driven on so felt like night and day vs the PS4S, but I noticed I couldn't keep up with the fastest guys when it was wet or cold. I checked their tires and almost universally they were Bridgestone or Yokohama. One asshole in a Z4 was on PS4S but that dude apparently routinely places in nationals...

And when I say asshole he was an incredibly nice guy that's just the hate talking.

In any case it inspired me to go find a set of 18s and my RZs are expected to ship today.

And yep thanks for that- I knew it was one of the classes I was considering they were illegal and it was Tuner. I'm planning on moving to camber plates eventually when I switch to coils so maybe that would be legal? Probably not. I'm still not worried about class at this particular time but maybe I'll get serious next year.

I can't go back to stock camber. I like the way the car feels at -3.5 but I also can't keep losing tires. I want to validate where the toe is at now, and then I'll almost surely dial it back to -2.5. My rear camber is ~-2 so I'll probably leave it as is, especially with the rear sway bar.

Tuner you can do coilovers and camber plate. So you would be good there.

I tried several times to get the ball joints allowed for tuner, but was unsuccessful each time. my argument was if stock top why not allow the ball joints, just adjusting from the bottom, but they were like nope.

 

[SlowAP2]

Tuner you can do coilovers and camber plate. So you would be good there.

I tried several times to get the ball joints allowed for tuner, but was unsuccessful each time. my argument was if stock top why not allow the ball joints, just adjusting from the bottom, but they were like nope.

Ball joints are legal in ST, so if there's nothing else done to the car that isn't ST legal just say you're using that ruleset for tuner classing. Dumb but allowed that way.

 

[BigBird]

I stand corrected, adjustable ball joints allowed in Tuner. But good to know about the ST build guidelines as well

 

[simpleisbest]

For BST set up, the 315 RZ are game changer up front.
Also, with the higher front grip I found that the car needed a bigger front sway bar.

 

[optronix]

315s JESUS. Ok. lol. Forgot you went in with the 315s. So to be competitive it's balls to the wall with 315s. Word. Hahahaha

Good to know but I don't think I have the stomach for that... plus I just bought a set of 18x10 +40 CE28Ns + 275/35 RZ and I don't see myself buying new wheels ANY TIME soon.

But I wish you godspeed in your journey, and be sure to post up here with significant wins! (Videos would be welcome too)

@simpleisbest I do have a question around the front bar. What's the install like on that? Would you prioritize it over the rear or not really necessary unless you go full hog with 315s??

 

[simpleisbest]

I had a shop do the front sway bar, as you have to pull the steering rack.
I think the car definitely needs a bigger front bar, especially for slaloms and certain transitions. The rear bar is a very easy install and thus low hanging fruit. A bigger rear bar helps, but personally I noticed a larger overall performance improvement with a larger front bar.

 

[optronix]

I had a shop do the front sway bar, as you have to pull the steering rack.
I think the car definitely needs a bigger front bar, especially for slaloms and certain transitions. The rear bar is a very easy install and thus low hanging fruit. A bigger rear bar helps, but personally I noticed a larger overall performance improvement with a larger front bar.

That tracks with some other guidance I've received on the topic. Thanks for the impressions.

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