God Spec info 18x10 +40 (pictures, alignment specs, tire info)

[HondaHoon]

Nah, I'm allowed to be frustrated. Everyone in this thread swore by the fitment.

There is something going on here. DE5 fitment *should* be the same as FL5. Unless as scottjua mentioned earlier if the fenders (like FK8) are flares and its rubbing on some plastic. Although I havent inspected a DE5 that closely on the fenders in person since at the shop.

A badass shop owner/operator is telling you that there may be a issue other than writing it off as being told wrong information by the community. This forum is the best I have ever belonged to. Super helpful and knowledgeable. But tell me, why the hell are you here asking for opinions of FL5 owners when there are Integra forums? Would they not be a better source

That is why I suggested going to get it looked at by someone more experienced. Sounds like to me you dont want help. Just bitch. If so, have at it.

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[ctechauto]

Nah, I'm allowed to be frustrated. Everyone in this thread swore by the fitment.

Its tried and true.

From our personal shop FL5 to customers, there have been countless times we have done this 18x10 +40, 18x10.5 +47 (outside fitment is the same) on multiple FL5 and a couple of DE5 (again, that is why we havent inspected DE5 this super close up because it has never given any issues), and NONE needed even near -3.5⁰ of camber to fit, not to mention you're still rubbing on -3.5⁰. From camber plates to camber LBJs to no camber mods besides pulled pins, to 200TW to all seasons, from springs to coilovers, from 265/35/18, to 275/35/18, to 285/30/18 (thats what we run and we are much lower than your DE5, and we're going up to 295/30 eventually), none has rubbed even on big dips, especially to the degree you are seeing and have pics of.

Heck, had a customer FL5 on spoon springs, stock everything else and ran 265/35/18 PS4S on 18x10 +40 Advan GT with zero rub even with car full of people. All we did was pull the pins to get -2.2⁰ish front camber when we got it aligned.

Obviously we are all trying to diagnose this over a forum post, but something is amiss here. But to be fair, I dont think anyone else has been trying to get airborne at 40mph either

 

[ABPDE5]

Its tried and true.

From our personal shop FL5 to customers, there have been countless times we have done this 18x10 +40, 18x10.5 +47 (outside fitment is the same) on multiple FL5 and a couple of DE5 (again, that is why we havent inspected DE5 this super close up because it has never given any issues), and NONE needed even near -3.5⁰ of camber to fit, not to mention you're still rubbing on -3.5⁰. From camber plates to camber LBJs to no camber mods besides pulled pins, to 200TW to all seasons, from springs to coilovers, from 265/35/18, to 275/35/18, to 285/30/18 (thats what we run and we are much lower than your DE5, and we're going up to 295/30 eventually), none has rubbed even on big dips, especially to the degree you are seeing and have pics of.

Heck, had a customer FL5 on spoon springs, stock everything else and ran 265/35/18 PS4S on 18x10 +40 Advan GT with zero rub even with car full of people. All we did was pull the pins to get -2.2⁰ish front camber when we got it aligned.

Obviously we are all trying to diagnose this over a forum post, but something is amiss here. But to be fair, I dont think anyone else has been trying to get airborne at 40mph either

Could be the drop? Spoon / HR are pretty conservative compared to the Eibach in terms of drop height, right? (Going off memory here...)

 

[ctechauto]

Could be the drop? Spoon / HR are pretty conservative compared to the Eibach in terms of drop height, right? (Going off memory here...)

I mean that wasnt exactly the only example as we've done bajillion different combination of parts as I mentioned, it was just memorable because of the car full of people bit and no other suspension mods except the spoon springs.

 

[optronix]

A badass shop owner/operator is telling you that there may be a issue other than writing it off as being told wrong information by the community. This forum is the best I have ever belonged to. Super helpful and knowledgeable. But tell me, why the hell are you here asking for opinions of FL5 owners when there are Integra forums? Would they not be a better source

That is why I suggested going to get it looked at by someone more experienced. Sounds like to me you dont want help. Just bitch. If so, have at it.

Look, I don't know why you're getting defensive. I didn't need a "I remember my first beer moment", but that doesn't mean I'm "writing it off as being told wrong information by the community". I view it more as edification. So far I'm literally the only one who's had an issue with this setup. Even according to the "badass shop owner", this is fully expected to be applicable to the DE5 as well as the FL5. This is a first. Wouldn't "the community" want to know about it?

And don't you think going into this with that expectation and dropping $6K on the wheels/tires/accessories and waiting 6 months for weather to clear before finding out "joke's on you, something's off" BY the esteemed shop owner but not knowing what is off might just lead to a LITTLE BIT of frustration?

I'm also picking up the "why are you here" implication. I don't think that really deserves a response, but there is a higher volume of FL5s, and common sense dictates that if they share the same running gear, there are enough similarities to justify my presence. Last I checked FL5 ownership wasn't a prerequisite for joining and posting. Am I wrong?

And I love the part where I'm told how I should feel about the situation. Don't we all fucking love that?

Almost as much as "well you should go to an expert" comment AFTER I mentioned I have an appointment on Monday. That's fun too.

Its tried and true.

From our personal shop FL5 to customers, there have been countless times we have done this 18x10 +40, 18x10.5 +47 (outside fitment is the same) on multiple FL5 and a couple of DE5 (again, that is why we havent inspected DE5 this super close up because it has never given any issues), and NONE needed even near -3.5⁰ of camber to fit, not to mention you're still rubbing on -3.5⁰. From camber plates to camber LBJs to no camber mods besides pulled pins, to 200TW to all seasons, from springs to coilovers, from 265/35/18, to 275/35/18, to 285/30/18 (thats what we run and we are much lower than your DE5, and we're going up to 295/30 eventually), none has rubbed even on big dips, especially to the degree you are seeing and have pics of.

Heck, had a customer FL5 on spoon springs, stock everything else and ran 265/35/18 PS4S on 18x10 +40 Advan GT with zero rub even with car full of people. All we did was pull the pins to get -2.2⁰ish front camber when we got it aligned.

Obviously we are all trying to diagnose this over a forum post, but something is amiss here. But to be fair, I dont think anyone else has been trying to get airborne at 40mph either

@ctechauto be aware I mean no disrespect at the "badass shop owner" comments, just reusing the terminology to make a point. But also please understand that "something ain't right" only fuels the fire.

I understand this isn't going to be figured out by a forum diagnosis. But so far I've been met with "it should definitely work, what's your problem", "stop your bitching", and "it's hilarious you let this stop you from autocross". It's a lot to take in.

Also regarding the airborne at 40mph- that's more or less what I was getting at with posting... are we SURE there's NO RUBBING UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE? Because I hit the same bump yesterday with my other setup and did not rub. If you're telling me that the "no rubbing" expectation has a threshold of reasonable expectation for significant bumps, that would be nice to make the community aware of.

 

[ctechauto]

Nah, I'm allowed to be frustrated. Everyone in this thread swore by the fitment.

To be fair, I was really trying to reply to this part and I probably should have just quoted it from the start.

I wasnt trying to insult you, add fuel to the fire, or imply you dont know what you're doing/seeing/hearing/driving or anything like that. I get your frustration. Maybe your DE5 is an outlier. I'd be super interested in what your shop says. Either way, throwing coilovers at it wouldnt do anything at this point except waste money; I'd suggest going back to your shop first and see what they say. And if you were my customer, I wouldnt sell you coilovers to "resolve" this even at the expense of losing a sale. Because it wouldnt address the root cause and I'm interested in the root cause.

Or maybe truly we would all rub if we tried to get airborne at 40mph like you tried. (Though I have no idea if you were being facetious or exaggerating).

Even if you weren't just being facetious, my shop is out in the country. The roads are awful, and there are some bridge gaps (they tried to fill with asphalt and made a ramp basically) I hit around 70mph that I thought I bent the wheels, or about to blow my airbags. Still no rub but lots of butt clinching and thought I broke something. Same road I take customer cars for test drives. Food for thought there.

 

[HondaHoon]

Look, I don't know why you're getting defensive. I didn't need a "I remember my first beer moment", but that doesn't mean I'm "writing it off as being told wrong information by the community". I view it more as edification. So far I'm literally the only one who's had an issue with this setup. Even according to the "badass shop owner", this is fully expected to be applicable to the DE5 as well as the FL5. This is a first. Wouldn't "the community" want to know about it?

And don't you think going into this with that expectation and dropping $6K on the wheels/tires/accessories and waiting 6 months for weather to clear before finding out "joke's on you, something's off" BY the esteemed shop owner but not knowing what is off might just lead to a LITTLE BIT of frustration?

I'm also picking up the "why are you here" implication. I don't think that really deserves a response, but there is a higher volume of FL5s, and common sense dictates that if they share the same running gear, there are enough similarities to justify my presence. Last I checked FL5 ownership wasn't a prerequisite for joining and posting. Am I wrong?

And I love the part where I'm told how I should feel about the situation. Don't we all fucking love that?

Almost as much as "well you should go to an expert" comment AFTER I mentioned I have an appointment on Monday. That's fun too.



@ctechauto be aware I mean no disrespect at the "badass shop owner" comments, just reusing the terminology to make a point. But also please understand that "something ain't right" only fuels the fire.

I understand this isn't going to be figured out by a forum diagnosis. But so far I've been met with "it should definitely work, what's your problem", "stop your bitching", and "it's hilarious you let this stop you from autocross". It's a lot to take in.

Also regarding the airborne at 40mph- that's more or less what I was getting at with posting... are we SURE there's NO RUBBING UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE? Because I hit the same bump yesterday with my other setup

Look, I don't know why you're getting defensive. I didn't need a "I remember my first beer moment", but that doesn't mean I'm "writing it off as being told wrong information by the community". I view it more as edification. So far I'm literally the only one who's had an issue with this setup. Even according to the "badass shop owner", this is fully expected to be applicable to the DE5 as well as the FL5. This is a first. Wouldn't "the community" want to know about it?

And don't you think going into this with that expectation and dropping $6K on the wheels/tires/accessories and waiting 6 months for weather to clear before finding out "joke's on you, something's off" BY the esteemed shop owner but not knowing what is off might just lead to a LITTLE BIT of frustration?

I'm also picking up the "why are you here" implication. I don't think that really deserves a response, but there is a higher volume of FL5s, and common sense dictates that if they share the same running gear, there are enough similarities to justify my presence. Last I checked FL5 ownership wasn't a prerequisite for joining and posting. Am I wrong?

And I love the part where I'm told how I should feel about the situation. Don't we all fucking love that?

Almost as much as "well you should go to an expert" comment AFTER I mentioned I have an appointment on Monday. That's fun too.



@ctechauto be aware I mean no disrespect at the "badass shop owner" comments, just reusing the terminology to make a point. But also please understand that "something ain't right" only fuels the fire.

I understand this isn't going to be figured out by a forum diagnosis. But so far I've been met with "it should definitely work, what's your problem", "stop your bitching", and "it's hilarious you let this stop you from autocross". It's a lot to take in.

Also regarding the airborne at 40mph- that's more or less what I was getting at with posting... are we SURE there's NO RUBBING UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE? Because I hit the same bump yesterday with my other setup and did not rub. If you're telling me that the "no rubbing" expectation has a threshold of reasonable expectation for significant bumps, that would be nice to make the community aware of.

Only person getting hurt here is you by the sound of it. I said my piece. OEM life is for you imo. Good luck brother.

 

[optronix]

To be fair, I was really trying to reply to this part and I probably should have just quoted it from the start.

I wasnt trying to insult you, add fuel to the fire, or imply you dont know what you're doing/seeing/hearing/driving or anything like that. I get your frustration. Maybe your DE5 is an outlier. I'd be super interested in what your shop says. Either way, throwing coilovers at it wouldnt do anything at this point except waste money; I'd suggest going back to your shop first and see what they say. And if you were my customer, I wouldnt sell you coilovers to "resolve" this even at the expense of losing a sale. Because it wouldnt address the root cause and I'm interested in the root cause.

Or maybe truly we would all rub if we tried to get airborne at 40mph like you tried. (Though I have no idea if you were being facetious or exaggerating).

Even if you weren't just being facetious, my shop is out in the country. The roads are awful, and there are some bridge gaps (they tried to fill with asphalt and made a ramp basically) I hit around 70mph that I thought I bent the wheels, or about to blow my airbags. Still no rub but lots of butt clinching and thought I broke something. Food for thought there.

Again, wish you were closer. Well thought out response- and I was being a bit facetious with the "airborne" implication but this bump is notorious enough where I routinely see brodozers navigating around it.

I have a good rapport with my shop but AFAIK they don't necessarily have the same platform expertise. Plus they're north of a painful beltway. But I will be sure to disclose any pertinent details.

I don't think coilovers will resolve this either. I think I can see a tab in the rear fender at least that may be contributing to the rubbing. So it might very well boil down to these specific tires on the DE5 and that's all there is to it. But the rears are definitely rubbing as well as the fronts, with the extra camber. So any findings that are discovered on Monday will be shared with the group, because I'm sure I'm not the only DE5 owner who follows this.

Only person getting hurt here is you by the sound of it. I said my piece. OEM life is for you imo. Good luck brother.

That's it. I see you're in Western Maryland, let's settle this like men. Via autocross. You'll discover OEM is NOT life for me, because literally the OEM setup can't keep up with my driving.

I'm dead serious. PCA Potomac at Summit is the event I cancelled this weekend. Let's do the next one. See you there .

 

[ctechauto]

Again, wish you were closer. Well thought out response- and I was being a bit facetious with the "airborne" implication but this bump is notorious enough where I routinely see brodozers navigating around it.

I have a good rapport with my shop but AFAIK they don't necessarily have the same platform expertise. Plus they're north of a painful beltway. But I will be sure to disclose any pertinent details.

I don't think coilovers will resolve this either. I think I can see a tab in the rear fender at least that may be contributing to the rubbing. So it might very well boil down to these specific tires on the DE5 and that's all there is to it. But the rears are definitely rubbing as well as the fronts, with the extra camber. So any findings that are discovered on Monday will be shared with the group, because I'm sure I'm not the only DE5 owner who follows this.




That's it. I see you're in Western Maryland, let's settle this like men. Via autocross. You'll discover OEM is NOT life for me, because literally the OEM setup can't keep up with my driving.

I'm dead serious. PCA Potomac at Summit is the event I cancelled this weekend. Let's do the next one. See you there .

Have you thought about putting the stock ADS module back in and hitting those same bumps with the new wheels/tires? I have exp with DSC controllers on Porsches, but not this platform (yet) so I dont know how the controller is "tuning" the dampening/valving. I wonder if its too under-dampened for the aftermarket spring rates, even though its supposed to be for a "lowered" car tune.

 

[optronix]

Have you thought about putting the stock ADS module back in and hitting those same bumps with the new wheels/tires? I have exp with DSC controllers on Porsches, but not this platform (yet) so I dont know how the controller is "tuning" the dampening/valving. I wonder if its too under-dampened for the aftermarket spring rates, even though its supposed to be for a "lowered" car tune.

I HAVE thought of that... but I kind of backed out of it because I figured it shouldn't have been an issue in Sport or Sport+, where the damping is clearly much stronger than Comfort. You're not wrong, I've thought of all the same things. It might bug me enough this weekend to try it out. Now that I have a free Sunday...

 

[ctechauto]

I HAVE thought of that... but I kind of backed out of it because I figured it shouldn't have been an issue in Sport or Sport+, where the damping is clearly much stronger than Comfort. You're not wrong, I've thought of all the same things. It might bug me enough this weekend to try it out. Now that I have a free Sunday...

I would try that if I were you. Also how's your alignment specs? Specifically toe. You got any toe out that might be catching the tabs? I think thats a long shot because I dont see how say 1/16th-out each side would contribute to actually making a difference but I'm curious.

 

[HondaHoon]

Again, wish you were closer. Well thought out response- and I was being a bit facetious with the "airborne" implication but this bump is notorious enough where I routinely see brodozers navigating around it.

I have a good rapport with my shop but AFAIK they don't necessarily have the same platform expertise. Plus they're north of a painful beltway. But I will be sure to disclose any pertinent details.

I don't think coilovers will resolve this either. I think I can see a tab in the rear fender at least that may be contributing to the rubbing. So it might very well boil down to these specific tires on the DE5 and that's all there is to it. But the rears are definitely rubbing as well as the fronts, with the extra camber. So any findings that are discovered on Monday will be shared with the group, because I'm sure I'm not the only DE5 owner who follows this.




That's it. I see you're in Western Maryland, let's settle this like men. Via autocross. You'll discover OEM is NOT life for me, because literally the OEM setup can't keep up with my driving.

I'm dead serious. PCA Potomac at Summit is the event I cancelled this weekend. Let's do the next one. See you there .

If your close. I would prefer to help you fix it, and then go to the track together as buds. I am done with this negative exchange. Here is some serious constructive help. It was alot to type so I asked AI to help. I will be at VIR over the 3 day memorial day event. Anyway, if you want to make the drive, I have a full garage to help you get this dialed.

1. Bump Stops Trimmed Too Much, Trimmed Incorrectly, or Not Reinstalled Properly (Most Common Cause of Inner Fender Rub)
OEM bump stops (jounce bumpers) limit how far the suspension can compress upward. Lowering spring kits (Eibach Pro-Kit, Swift Spec-R, H&R, Spoon, etc.) usually specify trimming them ~20 mm / ~1 rib from the bottom (or a similar amount) to restore usable travel and prevent harsh bottoming.
If you over-trimmed them, removed them entirely, or didn’t reinstall them correctly after cutting, the wheel/tire gains excessive upward travel. On compression (bumps, hard corners, or dips), the tire pushes farther up into the wheel well and contacts the inner fender liner.4e76be680d5c
Many people with the same springs either trim exactly per the instructions (or don’t trim at all for milder kits) and never rub. Over-cutting is a frequent DIY mistake that only affects your car.
Fix check: Pull the struts again and measure the bump stops against the kit instructions (or stock length if none provided). Replace with new shortened ones if needed—don’t guess.
2. Springs Not Fully Seated or Incorrectly Clocked/Rotated on the Perch
Lowering springs must seat fully and squarely on the lower strut perch (with any locator tab or stop aligned) and against the top insulator. Many kits (especially progressive-wound ones) require specific “clocking”—rotating the spring so the end coil sits in the correct orientation relative to the strut and top hat.
If the spring is cocked, not fully compressed into place during reassembly, or rotated wrong, it can sit slightly higher on one side, bind, or shift under load. This changes effective ride height or causes uneven dynamic geometry, letting the tire tuck or push into the inner liner more than it should.
Others who clocked/seated them correctly get even drop and no rub.76070c
Fix check: Recompress the strut and verify the spring ends are fully seated with no gap and properly aligned with any perch stops.
3. Missing, Flipped, or Wrong Spring Isolators/Insulators (Top or Bottom Rubber Pads)
These thin rubber pieces go between the spring and perch/top hat. They prevent slippage, noise, and metal-on-metal contact.
Forgetting them (or installing upside-down/wrong side) lets the spring shift or sit lower than intended under load, or causes it to bind/slide. Result: uneven height or extra movement that reduces inner fender clearance.
4. Suspension Bolts Torqued While the Car Was in the Air (Geometry Preload Error)
Critical bolts (lower strut-to-knuckle, control arm pivot bolts, etc.) must be torqued with the car at ride height on the ground (weight on the suspension). Many install videos emphasize this.
If torqued in the air (common DIY shortcut), the bushings bind in the wrong position. At normal ride height this creates incorrect camber/toe, pulling the tire inward or altering wheel travel so it contacts the inner liner.4dae58
Fix check: Loosen and re-torque those bolts on the ground per factory specs (use FL5/FK8 torque charts if your manual is incomplete).
Less Common but Possible Install Mistakes
Top strut mount/bearing installed upside-down or misoriented → Throws off steering geometry or height on that corner.
Brake line/ABS sensor wiring routed incorrectly after strut removal → Rare, but can pull things out of place and indirectly affect clearance (more likely to cause noise or damage than direct rub).
Spring installed on the wrong side (some kits have very slightly different left/right winding or markings) → Minor rate or seating difference that shows up as rub on one side only.
What this isn’t usually caused by (when others with the same springs don’t rub): The springs themselves, wheel/tire fitment (assuming it’s truly identical), or normal drop. Rub is very often not the springs but geometry + travel, which is exactly what bad install affects.390451
Next steps to diagnose/fix:
Jack it up safely and visually check bump stop length, spring seating/clocking, and isolators on both sides.
Compare your bump stops side-by-side to a correctly installed example (forums like civicxi.com or Type R owner groups have photos).
Do a full alignment afterward—lowering almost always requires it, and bad geometry from install can mimic rub.
If it’s only on big bumps/compression, bump stops are almost certainly the issue.

 

[optronix]

If your close. I would prefer to help you fix it, and then go to the track together as buds. I am done with this negative exchange. Here is some serious constructive help. It was alot to type so I asked AI to help. I will be at VIR over the 3 day memorial day event. Anyway, if you want to make the drive, I have a full garage to help you get this dialed.

1. Bump Stops Trimmed Too Much, Trimmed Incorrectly, or Not Reinstalled Properly (Most Common Cause of Inner Fender Rub)
OEM bump stops (jounce bumpers) limit how far the suspension can compress upward. Lowering spring kits (Eibach Pro-Kit, Swift Spec-R, H&R, Spoon, etc.) usually specify trimming them ~20 mm / ~1 rib from the bottom (or a similar amount) to restore usable travel and prevent harsh bottoming.
If you over-trimmed them, removed them entirely, or didn’t reinstall them correctly after cutting, the wheel/tire gains excessive upward travel. On compression (bumps, hard corners, or dips), the tire pushes farther up into the wheel well and contacts the inner fender liner.4e76be680d5c
Many people with the same springs either trim exactly per the instructions (or don’t trim at all for milder kits) and never rub. Over-cutting is a frequent DIY mistake that only affects your car.
Fix check: Pull the struts again and measure the bump stops against the kit instructions (or stock length if none provided). Replace with new shortened ones if needed—don’t guess.
2. Springs Not Fully Seated or Incorrectly Clocked/Rotated on the Perch
Lowering springs must seat fully and squarely on the lower strut perch (with any locator tab or stop aligned) and against the top insulator. Many kits (especially progressive-wound ones) require specific “clocking”—rotating the spring so the end coil sits in the correct orientation relative to the strut and top hat.
If the spring is cocked, not fully compressed into place during reassembly, or rotated wrong, it can sit slightly higher on one side, bind, or shift under load. This changes effective ride height or causes uneven dynamic geometry, letting the tire tuck or push into the inner liner more than it should.
Others who clocked/seated them correctly get even drop and no rub.76070c
Fix check: Recompress the strut and verify the spring ends are fully seated with no gap and properly aligned with any perch stops.
3. Missing, Flipped, or Wrong Spring Isolators/Insulators (Top or Bottom Rubber Pads)
These thin rubber pieces go between the spring and perch/top hat. They prevent slippage, noise, and metal-on-metal contact.
Forgetting them (or installing upside-down/wrong side) lets the spring shift or sit lower than intended under load, or causes it to bind/slide. Result: uneven height or extra movement that reduces inner fender clearance.
4. Suspension Bolts Torqued While the Car Was in the Air (Geometry Preload Error)
Critical bolts (lower strut-to-knuckle, control arm pivot bolts, etc.) must be torqued with the car at ride height on the ground (weight on the suspension). Many install videos emphasize this.
If torqued in the air (common DIY shortcut), the bushings bind in the wrong position. At normal ride height this creates incorrect camber/toe, pulling the tire inward or altering wheel travel so it contacts the inner liner.4dae58
Fix check: Loosen and re-torque those bolts on the ground per factory specs (use FL5/FK8 torque charts if your manual is incomplete).
Less Common but Possible Install Mistakes
Top strut mount/bearing installed upside-down or misoriented → Throws off steering geometry or height on that corner.
Brake line/ABS sensor wiring routed incorrectly after strut removal → Rare, but can pull things out of place and indirectly affect clearance (more likely to cause noise or damage than direct rub).
Spring installed on the wrong side (some kits have very slightly different left/right winding or markings) → Minor rate or seating difference that shows up as rub on one side only.
What this isn’t usually caused by (when others with the same springs don’t rub): The springs themselves, wheel/tire fitment (assuming it’s truly identical), or normal drop. Rub is very often not the springs but geometry + travel, which is exactly what bad install affects.390451
Next steps to diagnose/fix:
Jack it up safely and visually check bump stop length, spring seating/clocking, and isolators on both sides.
Compare your bump stops side-by-side to a correctly installed example (forums like civicxi.com or Type R owner groups have photos).
Do a full alignment afterward—lowering almost always requires it, and bad geometry from install can mimic rub.
If it’s only on big bumps/compression, bump stops are almost certainly the issue.

This is what people don't understand about me- I can have a drop dead knock out FIST FIGHT with someone- and then shake it off and grab a drink. I just match people's energy, it's what I've always done.

And honestly, you had me at bump stops. I've long been suspicious of the shop that installed my springs. I think we have a fucking winner here.

 

[optronix]

I would try that if I were you. Also how's your alignment specs? Specifically toe. You got any toe out that might be catching the tabs? I think thats a long shot because I dont see how say 1/16th-out each side would contribute to actually making a difference but I'm curious.

Getting an alignment as part of the diag, dating back to the shredded Falken. It was set to "near zero" when the ball joints were installed, but I've been pretty hard on it in the year since so I'm curious as well.

 

[ctechauto]

You know, I didnt even think about bump stops because I trim only what is required (again, never an issue) and completely forgot other people/shops may not follow that same guidance. So good call @HondaHoon

So its a very good idea to check even though its going to be super tricky (or impossible) to check without finagling the dust covers off or enough to expose the bumpstops somehow if you arent taking out the struts.

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