Nikw91
Senior Member
At least they did the right thing and paid for shipping/replacement.
Still time/labor and coolant isn’t the cheapest.
Hopefully this is just an anomaly.
Did you notice any temperature changes between the radiators?
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Still time/labor and coolant isn’t the cheapest.
Hopefully this is just an anomaly.
Did you notice any temperature changes between the radiators?
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #17
I wouldn’t say PWR products are lacking in quality based upon one report of failure. My intercooler and track spec radiator are working fine without issue.
I could not find any information on other Civic owners with PWR issues.
If I have any further issues I’ll certainly update but I don’t expect to.
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #18
Agreed on the wasted money and time. I’m going to accept this is part of tracking cars unfortunately.
I do notice a difference in temperatures between the OEM, the PWR track spec, and the PWR WOT triple pass spec radiators.
I’ve run all three with HEL oil cooler. I’ve run the track spec and WOT spec with the cooling under-tray.
OEM radiator - I could not complete a 20 minute session without overheating. I had to slow down and run cool-down laps. Those who can complete 20 minute track sessions are not pushing the car or they’re accepting high temps. It is not designed with enough cooling capacity at track pace.
PWR track spec - I can complete 20 minute sessions, depending on the track layout, ambient temps, and how hard I’m pushing on each lap. At Hedge Hollow I had no cooling issues. At I29, today I ran 6 sessions and on three of them I had to run cool-down laps in the middle of the sessions, which was fine because it helped with the garbage PS4S tires I’m running. The difference in these three sessions was that I was pushing hard every lap.
PWR WOT track spec radiator - I’ve only run three track days with this radiator before it failed. I had no temperature issues when running it, but temps were: mid-60s, mid-70s, and mid-70s.
I’ll know more later in the summer with the PWR WOT radiator to compare to the track spec. Both are miles ahead of the OEM setup.
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #19
06/26 update
06/26/26 Track Day at I29 Speedway
We ran a private track day with 10 people today. I spent a lot of time driving and riding in other cars. I put in 31 hot laps and another handful of cool-down laps that I didn't log.
I was only able to run 91 octane and my 91 fuel map so I was down on speed on the straight and I lost significant top speed (4.5 MPH) compared to last weekend. My best time today was a 1:46 lap, and that was disappointing. The PS4S tires have 99 laps over three track days and 16 sessions. I've rotated front to back and side to side to try to manage them. I'm still seeing really early delamination on the edges (both inside and outside, depending on the track's layout).
I'm going to switch to Hoosier Track Attack Pro or Nankang CR-S V2 next. While cheap, the PS4S aren't particularly enjoyable to drive and I constantly have to worry about overheating them.
Cars present today:
FL5 (me)
Heavily modified Viper, ACR+ level
GT350R
95 Cobra R
C8 (supercharged)
Mini
X5 M Competition (yes, the SUV)
GR86
991.2 Carrera
Fastest lap went to the GT350R, by a few tenths over the C8. both about a second faster than me. GT350R on Cup 2 tires, C8 on Track Attack Pro.
Most enjoyable lap for me was driving the 95 Cobra R on Cup 2 tires. It's not too powerful and it has all the suspension and chassis flex with the tire grip. It's not fast but it is fun.
Scariest car to drive and ride in was the Viper. I only drove six laps but I could not get comfortable with the horrible seating position, pedal offset, pedal spacing, and the very challenging short-throw shifter. I could not manage to do a 4-3 downshift without screwing up my braking. The car is extremely capable but I would need time to practice. As a passenger it felt sketchy.
Equipment issues on the day:
The C8 recently had a warranty repair done for an oil leak from the dry sump tank. It didn't make it through a track day without the issue repeating itself. Back to the dealer it goes.
The Viper had a blown front tire, cause undetermined.
The GT350R destroyed a set of Cup 2 front tires in one track day. Time for camber adjustments and/or a different tire.
06/26/26 Track Day at I29 Speedway
We ran a private track day with 10 people today. I spent a lot of time driving and riding in other cars. I put in 31 hot laps and another handful of cool-down laps that I didn't log.
I was only able to run 91 octane and my 91 fuel map so I was down on speed on the straight and I lost significant top speed (4.5 MPH) compared to last weekend. My best time today was a 1:46 lap, and that was disappointing. The PS4S tires have 99 laps over three track days and 16 sessions. I've rotated front to back and side to side to try to manage them. I'm still seeing really early delamination on the edges (both inside and outside, depending on the track's layout).
I'm going to switch to Hoosier Track Attack Pro or Nankang CR-S V2 next. While cheap, the PS4S aren't particularly enjoyable to drive and I constantly have to worry about overheating them.
Cars present today:
FL5 (me)
Heavily modified Viper, ACR+ level
GT350R
95 Cobra R
C8 (supercharged)
Mini
X5 M Competition (yes, the SUV)
GR86
991.2 Carrera
Fastest lap went to the GT350R, by a few tenths over the C8. both about a second faster than me. GT350R on Cup 2 tires, C8 on Track Attack Pro.
Most enjoyable lap for me was driving the 95 Cobra R on Cup 2 tires. It's not too powerful and it has all the suspension and chassis flex with the tire grip. It's not fast but it is fun.
Scariest car to drive and ride in was the Viper. I only drove six laps but I could not get comfortable with the horrible seating position, pedal offset, pedal spacing, and the very challenging short-throw shifter. I could not manage to do a 4-3 downshift without screwing up my braking. The car is extremely capable but I would need time to practice. As a passenger it felt sketchy.
Equipment issues on the day:
The C8 recently had a warranty repair done for an oil leak from the dry sump tank. It didn't make it through a track day without the issue repeating itself. Back to the dealer it goes.
The Viper had a blown front tire, cause undetermined.
The GT350R destroyed a set of Cup 2 front tires in one track day. Time for camber adjustments and/or a different tire.
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #20
07/11/26 Update:
I installed SRP Racing Pedals today. I’ve had them for about an month and hadn’t gotten around to installing due to lack of time and very hot weather leading to a very hot garage.
Installation is straightforward.
Dead pedal - drill four 7/64 holes and then install the SRP cover with provided four sheet metal pointed screws. They are self tapping and you’re basically screwing into a soft bit of foam and carpet.
Clutch pedal - The clutch pedal is plastic. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The plastic pedal has three pre-drilled holes. Install the SRP cover with provided three machine screws and nuts.
Brake pedal- The brake pedal is metal. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The metal pedal has three pre-drilled holes. I had to use a 11/64 drill bit to increase the size of the holes to use the provided machine screws and nuts.
Gas pedal - This is the most time consuming pedal to install. The OEM metal cover sits over a plastic base and is held on by four metal tabs that are bent around the inside of the plastic pedal. I used needle-nose pliers to bend two of the tabs to remove the OEM metal cover. Once this is done you’re left with a plastic pedal that has several grooves. The SRP cover has a series of holes that don’t perfectly align with the raised areas of the plastic pedal so you have to choose where you’re going to drill new holes. I used a 1/16 drill bit to start two holes. The plastic is fairly tough. I then drilled the two holes to 7/64. I used two provided sheet metal pointed screws to install the SRP cover. I then repeated the 1/16 and 7/64 on two more holes and used two more provided sheet metal pointed screws to secure the SRP cover.
The SRP pedals seem to be well built. I’ll update after my 7/12/26 track day on their effectiveness compared to the OEM pedals.
One area of improvement would be to have the holes in the metal SRP gas pedal align with the plastic OEM pedal surface. As designed they’re slightly off so you can’t align your screws with each of the OEM plastic raised surfaces.
Total install time was about an hour. It would have been quicker if It weren’t so hot in my garage and if I had the notes I provided here.
I installed SRP Racing Pedals today. I’ve had them for about an month and hadn’t gotten around to installing due to lack of time and very hot weather leading to a very hot garage.
Installation is straightforward.
Dead pedal - drill four 7/64 holes and then install the SRP cover with provided four sheet metal pointed screws. They are self tapping and you’re basically screwing into a soft bit of foam and carpet.
Clutch pedal - The clutch pedal is plastic. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The plastic pedal has three pre-drilled holes. Install the SRP cover with provided three machine screws and nuts.
Brake pedal- The brake pedal is metal. Remove the existing metal/rubber cover. It slides off with no modifications. The metal pedal has three pre-drilled holes. I had to use a 11/64 drill bit to increase the size of the holes to use the provided machine screws and nuts.
Gas pedal - This is the most time consuming pedal to install. The OEM metal cover sits over a plastic base and is held on by four metal tabs that are bent around the inside of the plastic pedal. I used needle-nose pliers to bend two of the tabs to remove the OEM metal cover. Once this is done you’re left with a plastic pedal that has several grooves. The SRP cover has a series of holes that don’t perfectly align with the raised areas of the plastic pedal so you have to choose where you’re going to drill new holes. I used a 1/16 drill bit to start two holes. The plastic is fairly tough. I then drilled the two holes to 7/64. I used two provided sheet metal pointed screws to install the SRP cover. I then repeated the 1/16 and 7/64 on two more holes and used two more provided sheet metal pointed screws to secure the SRP cover.
The SRP pedals seem to be well built. I’ll update after my 7/12/26 track day on their effectiveness compared to the OEM pedals.
One area of improvement would be to have the holes in the metal SRP gas pedal align with the plastic OEM pedal surface. As designed they’re slightly off so you can’t align your screws with each of the OEM plastic raised surfaces.
Total install time was about an hour. It would have been quicker if It weren’t so hot in my garage and if I had the notes I provided here.
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #21
07/13/26 Update:
I completed another track day at I29 Speedway on 07/12/26.
It was a very hot and humid day with temps peaking in the upper 80s and humidity at 60-75%. In the morning, when it was 75-80F, I was on 91 octane and fuel map and was able to reach top speed of around 122MPH. In the afternoon, when temperatures reached up to 88F I was running 93 octane and fuel map and was able to reach 124MPH.
The SRP pedals worked perfectly. They are more grippy than the OEM pedals and stayed firmly connected. They are set up better for heel and toe shifting than the OEM pedals and I had to be mindful of my foot position when on the brakes to avoid inadvertently pressing the gas. My Lotus pedals were much closer together so it’s a muscle memory thing I was able to correct after a few laps.
My tires were not in the best shape with some tread delamination starting on the rears, from my last track day when they were on the front. My goal was to get through six sessions without losing a tire. Traffic in the advanced group prevented many clean laps so this assisted in not overheating the tires. I was surprised how well they held up through the day, given their starting condition and my previous experience with them. I completed 36 hot laps.
The advanced group had several drivers/cars present that had no business being in that group so it was pretty frustrating to have them consistently ruining laps and failing to point by. Every time I saw a particular BRZ and Boxster, I knew the lap would be ruined. Frustrating stuff and not usually the case in the advanced group.
By the last session of the day, most had given up due to the heat so I went out with only one other car on track. With the track wide open I decided to push the car hard to see if I could approach a PB. I quickly set a lap about 0.5 seconds off so I took a cool-down lap and tried again. At this point I was sliding quite a bit and fighting understeer but was on pace for a new PB. I struggled to find any front grip in the last two high-G corners and missed a PB by about 0.25 seconds. I completed a cool-down lap and called it a day.
Sure enough, the fronts were done. Heat + sliding + rough track surface is a bad recipe for PS4S. They end their life with 135 hot laps over four track days and 20+ sessions.
There were a total of three FL5s and a Integra Type S present. All three FL5s were on PS4S tires, with the other two cars set up stock and on track for the first time. The ITS is running Continentals on 18s and has previous track time.
It was good to ride with the other FL5 drivers and for them to ride with me. I was about 7-8 sec per lap faster but they improved their times pretty well throughout the day as they began to trust the car’s grip through some of the more challenging turns.
It is pretty interesting how well the stock cooling system can hold up to a slower pace on track. I can see why there are reports of the stock cooling system being sufficient. At the pace they were both running, water temps seemed to peak around 220 and oil 275. I was seeing the same water temps in my car while running the PWR radiator, HEL oil cooler, WOT under-tray, etc. I also am running more power with the tune so it’s not a direct comparison. A few years ago, with my car in stock configuration, at my pace, I was unable to complete a 20-minute session.
Next track day is in a few weeks.
Incoming parts over the next few months:
- HRC TCR wing
- Verus canards
- RaceBred splitter
- J’s Racing Phantom Dry hood
- J’s Racing valve cover
- Origin Fab titanium strut bar
I completed another track day at I29 Speedway on 07/12/26.
It was a very hot and humid day with temps peaking in the upper 80s and humidity at 60-75%. In the morning, when it was 75-80F, I was on 91 octane and fuel map and was able to reach top speed of around 122MPH. In the afternoon, when temperatures reached up to 88F I was running 93 octane and fuel map and was able to reach 124MPH.
The SRP pedals worked perfectly. They are more grippy than the OEM pedals and stayed firmly connected. They are set up better for heel and toe shifting than the OEM pedals and I had to be mindful of my foot position when on the brakes to avoid inadvertently pressing the gas. My Lotus pedals were much closer together so it’s a muscle memory thing I was able to correct after a few laps.
My tires were not in the best shape with some tread delamination starting on the rears, from my last track day when they were on the front. My goal was to get through six sessions without losing a tire. Traffic in the advanced group prevented many clean laps so this assisted in not overheating the tires. I was surprised how well they held up through the day, given their starting condition and my previous experience with them. I completed 36 hot laps.
The advanced group had several drivers/cars present that had no business being in that group so it was pretty frustrating to have them consistently ruining laps and failing to point by. Every time I saw a particular BRZ and Boxster, I knew the lap would be ruined. Frustrating stuff and not usually the case in the advanced group.
By the last session of the day, most had given up due to the heat so I went out with only one other car on track. With the track wide open I decided to push the car hard to see if I could approach a PB. I quickly set a lap about 0.5 seconds off so I took a cool-down lap and tried again. At this point I was sliding quite a bit and fighting understeer but was on pace for a new PB. I struggled to find any front grip in the last two high-G corners and missed a PB by about 0.25 seconds. I completed a cool-down lap and called it a day.
Sure enough, the fronts were done. Heat + sliding + rough track surface is a bad recipe for PS4S. They end their life with 135 hot laps over four track days and 20+ sessions.
There were a total of three FL5s and a Integra Type S present. All three FL5s were on PS4S tires, with the other two cars set up stock and on track for the first time. The ITS is running Continentals on 18s and has previous track time.
It was good to ride with the other FL5 drivers and for them to ride with me. I was about 7-8 sec per lap faster but they improved their times pretty well throughout the day as they began to trust the car’s grip through some of the more challenging turns.
It is pretty interesting how well the stock cooling system can hold up to a slower pace on track. I can see why there are reports of the stock cooling system being sufficient. At the pace they were both running, water temps seemed to peak around 220 and oil 275. I was seeing the same water temps in my car while running the PWR radiator, HEL oil cooler, WOT under-tray, etc. I also am running more power with the tune so it’s not a direct comparison. A few years ago, with my car in stock configuration, at my pace, I was unable to complete a 20-minute session.
Next track day is in a few weeks.
Incoming parts over the next few months:
- HRC TCR wing
- Verus canards
- RaceBred splitter
- J’s Racing Phantom Dry hood
- J’s Racing valve cover
- Origin Fab titanium strut bar
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #23
08/30/26 Update:
I ended up with no track days since 07/13. I went to I29 today with the Nankang CR-S tires installed along with the Verus canards. I am still waiting on Racebred splitter so didn’t yet install the HRC wing.
It was another hot and humid day. From the first lap with the Nankangs, the difference in turn in and feel when compared to the PS4S tires was clear.
The car rotates better, grip is communicated more effectively and therefore easier to judge, and the tires are quiet and confidence inspiring. All day I was able to run consistent laps when there was no traffic.
I was consistently able to beat my PB on the I29 full course, with my new best around 1.5 seconds better than set previously on PS4S.
I am not sure if the canards are changing much without the splitter and new wing. They are meant to work in concert. I did note my top speed on the straight was 4.2 MPH slower (122.0) compared to my previous best lap from May (126.2). Weather today was 82 degrees and 62% humidity for the fastest lap, while the previous was 64 degrees and 34% humidity.
The big disappointment:
All day I monitored pressure and inside, middle, outside tire temperatures. I ran 43 laps today over six sessions, with 6 laps being final cool-down laps that I didn’t record.
I never rotated the tires front to rear or side to side because wear looked great, temperatures were pretty even across the tires, and pressures were consistent.
After session six I pulled in and saw I had yet again, with a third brand of tire, corded the inside of the passenger front (See photo).
What a disappointment - one track day, 37 laps + 6 cool-down and another destroyed tire. I’m running around -3.5 degrees camber on the fronts and it’s only the passenger side being damaged on the inside edge. The only solution I can come up with at this point is to go to a staggered front camber setup where I keep the -3.5 on the driver side and take 1 degree less on the passenger side. I’m using ball joints so only have three settings available in 1 degree increments. Other than that, I guess it’s coil-overs at this point.
Is anyone else having these problems when really pushing an FL5 on track? My home track is bumpy, has pretty rough pavement, and mostly right hand turns, which all stress the inside of the passenger front tire.
For context, I ran 7-8 seconds per lap faster than the other two FL5s present today. One was close to stock with 18s, Toyo tires, and pads. The other was close to stock with PS4S, ITR suspension module, pads and fluids. Previously with PS4S I would see around a 6 second per lap gap with the other FL5s on the same tires. I have no doubt if I was running the slower pace my tires would survive.
What’s next:
Two new Nanking CR-S tires. Wtf.
RaceBred Splitter should arrive in the next month.
Install HRC rear wing when the splitter arrives.
Install PWR WOT spec radiator and transmission cooler when installing splitter. This is the replacement for the core failure I experienced earlier this year.
CAE shifter should arrive by mid-October.
J‘s Racing phantom dry carbon hood should arrive mid-October.
J’s Racing valve cover install when the rest of this is being done.
I ended up with no track days since 07/13. I went to I29 today with the Nankang CR-S tires installed along with the Verus canards. I am still waiting on Racebred splitter so didn’t yet install the HRC wing.
It was another hot and humid day. From the first lap with the Nankangs, the difference in turn in and feel when compared to the PS4S tires was clear.
The car rotates better, grip is communicated more effectively and therefore easier to judge, and the tires are quiet and confidence inspiring. All day I was able to run consistent laps when there was no traffic.
I was consistently able to beat my PB on the I29 full course, with my new best around 1.5 seconds better than set previously on PS4S.
I am not sure if the canards are changing much without the splitter and new wing. They are meant to work in concert. I did note my top speed on the straight was 4.2 MPH slower (122.0) compared to my previous best lap from May (126.2). Weather today was 82 degrees and 62% humidity for the fastest lap, while the previous was 64 degrees and 34% humidity.
The big disappointment:
All day I monitored pressure and inside, middle, outside tire temperatures. I ran 43 laps today over six sessions, with 6 laps being final cool-down laps that I didn’t record.
I never rotated the tires front to rear or side to side because wear looked great, temperatures were pretty even across the tires, and pressures were consistent.
After session six I pulled in and saw I had yet again, with a third brand of tire, corded the inside of the passenger front (See photo).
What a disappointment - one track day, 37 laps + 6 cool-down and another destroyed tire. I’m running around -3.5 degrees camber on the fronts and it’s only the passenger side being damaged on the inside edge. The only solution I can come up with at this point is to go to a staggered front camber setup where I keep the -3.5 on the driver side and take 1 degree less on the passenger side. I’m using ball joints so only have three settings available in 1 degree increments. Other than that, I guess it’s coil-overs at this point.
Is anyone else having these problems when really pushing an FL5 on track? My home track is bumpy, has pretty rough pavement, and mostly right hand turns, which all stress the inside of the passenger front tire.
For context, I ran 7-8 seconds per lap faster than the other two FL5s present today. One was close to stock with 18s, Toyo tires, and pads. The other was close to stock with PS4S, ITR suspension module, pads and fluids. Previously with PS4S I would see around a 6 second per lap gap with the other FL5s on the same tires. I have no doubt if I was running the slower pace my tires would survive.
What’s next:
Two new Nanking CR-S tires. Wtf.
RaceBred Splitter should arrive in the next month.
Install HRC rear wing when the splitter arrives.
Install PWR WOT spec radiator and transmission cooler when installing splitter. This is the replacement for the core failure I experienced earlier this year.
CAE shifter should arrive by mid-October.
J‘s Racing phantom dry carbon hood should arrive mid-October.
J’s Racing valve cover install when the rest of this is being done.
optronix
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I don't necessarily intend to do the every-other-weekend track rat gridlife stuff many of you do, but I'm going to start paying attention to the tire issues as I ramp up to actually get more track days in.
I'm actually utterly shocked you tried to live this long with PS4S, especially considering all the mods you've done. Brakes and camber just don't fit with the PS4S. I had them at their limits on a completely stock DE5, and I'm not the fastest driver. I'm glad you finally tried a real track tire, but it is unfortunate that they died so quickly. Although not super surprising based on my experience. I've killed numerous tires just from autocross. PS4S die faster than most to my experience.
This platform needs front camber to be fast. From what I've seen, front camber kills tires. It's just a fact of life, until proven otherwise. Maybe @tezzasaurusrex can weigh in, or @Zygrene if he still pays attention to FL5/DE5 forums. Pretty sure they both run 18s though.
You really should consider buying a set of 18s and trying RE-71RZ. I feel like 18s with more sidewall are more resilient to track use. I tried to hold out and force the issue with 19s too but caved this season and went 18s with RE-71RZ. So far so fucking good; tires have held up to 4 autocross events, feel faster, and still look new. Just FYSA.
You could also consider Falken. RT660+ are available in 275. The ones I had were good up until a cold day on a shitty surface; one of them basically started falling apart. The other 3 are good though, which leads me to surmise it may have just been a faulty tire.
Still with all the other mods you have going on, I don't see why a move to 18" wheels should be a prohibitive expense.
Also jury's still out for me if aftermarket cooling mods are necessary on this car, or may in fact contribute to overheating. I think the bar-and-plate intercoolers have pretty much provided enough empirical evidence to suggest they have zero business being used on track. Until more documented examples of OEM cooling systems actually suffering defeat in track settings, I'm still of the opinion they're a complete waste of money, up to and including having the potential to ruin a trackday or two all by themselves.
I'm actually utterly shocked you tried to live this long with PS4S, especially considering all the mods you've done. Brakes and camber just don't fit with the PS4S. I had them at their limits on a completely stock DE5, and I'm not the fastest driver. I'm glad you finally tried a real track tire, but it is unfortunate that they died so quickly. Although not super surprising based on my experience. I've killed numerous tires just from autocross. PS4S die faster than most to my experience.
This platform needs front camber to be fast. From what I've seen, front camber kills tires. It's just a fact of life, until proven otherwise. Maybe @tezzasaurusrex can weigh in, or @Zygrene if he still pays attention to FL5/DE5 forums. Pretty sure they both run 18s though.
You really should consider buying a set of 18s and trying RE-71RZ. I feel like 18s with more sidewall are more resilient to track use. I tried to hold out and force the issue with 19s too but caved this season and went 18s with RE-71RZ. So far so fucking good; tires have held up to 4 autocross events, feel faster, and still look new. Just FYSA.
You could also consider Falken. RT660+ are available in 275. The ones I had were good up until a cold day on a shitty surface; one of them basically started falling apart. The other 3 are good though, which leads me to surmise it may have just been a faulty tire.
Still with all the other mods you have going on, I don't see why a move to 18" wheels should be a prohibitive expense.
Also jury's still out for me if aftermarket cooling mods are necessary on this car, or may in fact contribute to overheating. I think the bar-and-plate intercoolers have pretty much provided enough empirical evidence to suggest they have zero business being used on track. Until more documented examples of OEM cooling systems actually suffering defeat in track settings, I'm still of the opinion they're a complete waste of money, up to and including having the potential to ruin a trackday or two all by themselves.
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CG13
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #25
I’ve run the following tires on track with the FL5:
PS4S
Cup 2
Pirelli Trofeo R
Nankang CR-S
I have run so many PS4S because they’re only $200 from the dealer and I haven’t seen improved life from the others. I have seen better performance from the others.
The PS4S holds up pretty well with camber (horribly without), but the heat has to be managed constantly once speed increases.
I though the CR-S would be comparable to RE71RS, not sure about RZ, but you‘re right I would need to change wheel/tire size to access them.
Regarding cooling - I run an oil cooler, improved radiator, and improved ventilation which would not contribute to overheating. I run a PWR intercooler (tube and fin) and didn’t see increased temps once added. The oil cooler is not as helpful as I’d like (HEL) so I may switch to WOT dual cooler setup that doesn’t block the radiator.
All the FL5s I’ve seen cannot complete a 20 minute session when running at a high pace. Short shifting and lapping much slower does allow the cars to complete sessions. Removing the rain guard, running the heater, and driving slowly seem to be the solution for stock cars.
Nikw91
Senior Member
I agree with all your cooling statements.
I run a very similar cooling set up as you (same HEL oil cooler, same WOT cooling tray, same PTP downpipe blanket, HKS tube and fin intercooler and CSF Radiator) along with TSP Downpipe and tune.
I wonder if the HEL oil cooler makes a big difference or not. It does add roughly 0.7 quart of oil to the 5.7 quarts the car already holds which is an increase of 12.2% in volume that should be cooled down by "fresh cool air." However, it does sit in front of the radiator which means hot air going through the oil cooler is now flowing into the top portion of the radiator.
optronix
Senior Member
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I guess my data sources are just wrong, because I had the hardest time finding anyone who'd actually confess to running into heating issues with an entirely stock setup. Personal experience I had zero issues on a 74 degree evening. 20 minute sessions, 8-9/10ths driving only easing up on the back straight because I was also running stock brakes/fluid.
These are STOCK cars, correct? Seems like every instance of overheating I've actually seen documented was due to either a tune or a bar-and-plate intercooler.
Good to see the tube-and-fins holding up to track use, although that is to be expected.
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