Random first-day impressions...

[VLJ]

What are these plugs you speak of?

Scroll up this page eight posts.

Sponsored

 

[hhkb]

fredzy, I just checked the PDI sheet, and 'Install Body Plugs' was checked off, but then so was 'Set Tire Pressures to Door Recommendation,' and that wasn't done, so who knows? I do know that there were no loose plugs in the glove box, or anywhere else inside the car. Not sure where they would have stashed them if they didn't install them. I don't have access to a lift to get beneath the car and look for them, so I guess I'll have them checked when I bring the car in to get the infotainment/seatbelt buzzing fixed.

Yes, I'm now adding the seatbelt height adjuster on the B-pillar as another buzzing area that I want fixed.

On the plus side, it turns out that my favorite local race road, Hwy 49 from Downieville to Sierra City up above Truckee, is smooth enough to allow the use of +R mode, and that thing rips! I absolutely love +R when it's usable. My god, does it make the car feel like it's on rails. Man, what a feeling. It legitimately felt expensive.

I'm also discovering more and more that Sport mode is usable in quite a few places, including the freeway, but especially on the majority of my favorite canyon roads. It requires a smoother road than Comfort requires, but it's generally fine over the majority of our better fast roads.

I'm starting to think that I may not need that ITS module. As good as +R felt on that one killer road, I don't know that I want to give it up, even if it will come out to play only very occasionally.

I also surrended to temptation a bit today and zipped her up to redline a few brief times. I wanted to check three things. First, I wanted to see my shift lights dance, and I wanted to confirm that I'd turned off the warning beep. Yep, the lights are very cool, and no beep at redline.

Next, I wanted to hear the fake noise, which is only really noticeable in +R mode, and only above 6K RPM. In Sport and Comfort I can't really say that I noticed it, or, if I did, it sounded perfectly fine to me. For that matter, I must be sick in the head or something, because I honestly didn't even mind it in +R mode. I definitely heard it, but it didn't disgust me or anything. As infrequently as I'll visit redline in +R mode, I could probably live with it.

Lastly, I wanted to see whether there was any major burst of power from 5K to redline.

Nope, not really. The power remained relatively linear. Were it not for the introduction of the fake noise, there wouldn't have been all that much of an increase in the sensation of speed. Obviously, it accelerated harder, but it never felt scary fast, or even unusually fast. It mainly just felt...rapid. Surprisingly smooth and rapid, similar to my old 600c race bikes. Fast enough to get me in trouble, but not so fast that it felt like it was clearly trying to get me in trouble, the way the litre bikes do.

The tranny remains flawless, as does that magic front end. Fastest cornering car I've ever owned, by far, and maybe the fastest cornering car I've ever driven, period.

Would you by chance be able to share a copy of this PDI sheet? My car is coming in next week and I would like to verify the list of items.

 

[VLJ]

Would you by chance be able to share a copy of this PDI sheet? My car is coming in next week and I would like to verify the list of items.

It’s four pages…

 

[hhkb]

It’s four pages…

awesome! thank you!! i was planning on going through the entire list myself when my car arrives.

for anyone interested, I've converted this into a text list:

Pre-Delivery Inspection

Before Starting PDI

• Install the under-hood backup and audio fuses
• Check fuel door and fill up fuel tank, check gauge
• Take out of maintenance mode
• Check battery cables and terminal tightness
• Check battery state of charge with tester, attach the test strip to the Repair Order
• Remove protective films and wash vehicle

Vehicle Interior (Part 1)

• Remove all protective films, tags, and items from the rear cargo area
• Install and anchor floor mat
• Check childproof locks and seat belt operation
• Check brake pedal operation
• Check clutch pedal operation*

Vehicle Exterior (Part 1)

• Walk-around
• Check body fit and alignment
• Check paint finish for dents, dings, scratches, and blemishes
• Check hinges, locks, and latches

Under Hood - Engine Cold

• Check condition of wiring, hose clamps, and belt tension indicator
• Check brake/clutch* fluid level
• Check coolant fluid level and concentration
• Check engine oil level
• Check washer fluid level and concentration
• Check transmission fluid level*
• Check for fluid leaks

Under Vehicle

• Raise vehicle on lift to full height
• Check body panels (low view) for dents, scratches, etc.
• Check tires for defects or damage
• Check brake lines
• Check suspension and brakes
• Check suspension bolts for torque paint
• Check for fluid leaks
• Check steering gearbox and linkage
• Check driveline/axle/CV boots
• Check exhaust components
• Check clips on fuel lines
• Check underbody
• Install body plugs

Vehicle Exterior (Part 2)

• Lower vehicle to half-height
• Install front license plate holder*
• Check body fit, alignment, and paint condition
• Lower vehicle to ground
• Adjust tire pressures to doorjamb label specs (including spare tire*)

Calibrate the TPMS

Hatch / Cargo Area

• Check hatch operation
• Check trim appearance and carpet fitment
• Check cargo area light operation
• Check jack and tools*
• Check tire repair kit*
• Check emergency hatch opener
• Check folding rear seat operation

Under Hood - Engine Idling

• Check engine cooling fan operation
• Check engine coolant temperature gauge operation
• Do PCM idle learn procedure
• Check throttle operation and idle return

Vehicle Interior (Part 2)

• Check tachometer
• Check engine idle speed (A/C on/off)
• Check for abnormal noise/vibration, in and out of gear
• Check glove box operation
• Check front seat adjustments
• Check front center console for parts and operation
• Check rear seat center armrest*
• Check front seat heater operation*
• Check passenger airbag-off indicator
• Check tilt/telescoping steering column operation
• Check console compartment
• Install shift lock release cover*
• Check rearview camera operation
• Exit anti-theft mode
• Do navigation system PDI*
• Set the clock (non-navigation)
• Check SiriusXM® Radio*
• Check steering wheel audio/voice control buttons

Road Test

• Initialize navigation system*
• Verify shift lock*!
• Check engine performance under all driving conditions
• Check speedometer
• Check for abnormal noise, rattle, vibration or wind noise
• Check transmission and clutch operation
• Verify the steering wheel is centered and free from vibration (tire balance)
• Verify the vehicle tracks straight
• Check Cruise Control / Adaptive Cruise Control with Low Speed Follow* / Adaptive Cruise Control* operation
• Check climate control system
• Check audio and navigation* voice commands
• Check remote engine start*
• Check automatic brake hold operation
• Check Econ button*
• Check blind spot information system operation*
• Check Drive Mode Switch

Final Inspection (At Delivery)

• Check battery charge with tester, attach the test strip to this page, and provide a copy of the test strip to the customer
• Check for any open recalls or service campaigns
• Remove interior protective coverings if not already removed
• Wash and clean vehicle
• Check paint finish for dents, dings, scratches, and blemishes
• Remove window sticker and clean window
• Check interior cleanliness
• Recheck tire pressures to doorjamb label specs (including spare tire*)
• Calibrate the TPMS
• Check for and install system (OTA) updates*
• Place glove box materials in glove box

Dealer Certification and New Owner Information

(* if equipped)

 

[Samurai1225]

Brought the car to a different local dealer today to talk to them about the dashboard buzzing. We set an appointment for them to check it out next Wednesday, during which they will also check for any other missed PDI items, such as the plugs that are supposed to be installed underneath the body, since my original dealer skated through some of the items on the list.

The service writer I spoke with today has worked there for thirty-five years. When I asked him about the break-in oil thing, he was adamant that I leave it alone until the 15% Oil Life alert pops up on my Maintenance Minder screen. Unlike our motorcycles (he dragraces a Honda CBR600RR), he said, there is zero reason to replace the oil at 600 miles on a new Honda car. He said it's 100% true that Honda's break-in oil/seating process is real, and necessary. Conversely, he was equally adamant that there are no RPM limitations during the initial break-in.

"Drive it like you're going to drive it," he said. "If you're always going to take it easy, then take it easy. If you're going to race the thing, race the thing. The whole engine RPM break-in period is a myth, at least for cars. New motors in cars haven't needed RPM limitations in forever."

I mentioned that I couldn't find a single mention of any recommended break-in procedure in the entire 800-plus pages of my owner's manual, and he answered, "That's because there isn't one. Just drive it. Go out and enjoy it. Don't do anything special. Don't change the oil, don't baby it, don't worry about keeping the RPM down. Don't do anything different from what you would normally do. Just go drive it."

I then asked about his experience with Honda's DI engines, knowing they've serviced countless Civics, CR-Vs, Accords, and Pilots with direct-injected turbo motors. I was expecting a similar answer to the one I received from the head mechanic at my Subaru dealer, which was a simple, "Yep. They gunk up. It sucks. I now have to tell my customers to plan on needing to budget for cleaning the valves. I want them to do it every 30,000 miles, but I know they'll lose their minds over that, so I tell them to get it done no later than 60,000 miles."

When I asked my Mazda manager the same thing about my Miata, he agreed, adding that they've built that carbon-buildup cleansing service into their long-range maintenance program.

So, I was certainly surprised when this Honda guy answered, "Not a one. I know the valves accumulate sludge, just like any other direct injection motor, but I have never seen a single problem result from it on a Honda. No cold starting issues, no misfires, no fuel-mileage drop-off. Nothing. And I've seen a million direct injection Hondas, including quite a few with six-figure mileage. There's nothing to worry about there. The only issues we've seen were with the injectors themselves, and that had nothing to do with the direct injection. Honda had to replace some bad injectors."

I was already increasing the RPM anyway, having surpassed 500 miles during yesterday's run, so when I left the dealership today I decided to take his advice and start driving her normally, with no more RPM worries. Running it up to redline, I shifted down to third and held the RPM between 6-7K RPM, testing the fake noise in each drive mode. Honestly, they all seemed the same at constant throttle, but +R made a lot more noise with each gear change. That was the only time I could definitely tell the difference. In +R mode the blips were accompanied by a helluva lot louder "engine" noise.

I checked out two other things, as well. I wanted to see whether my Apple Car Play performance would be affected by disabling the car's native Navigation app, as Topher said he needed to do in order for his APC to work correctly.

No difference in my car. APC works perfectly every time for me, regardless of whether the Navigation app is fully enabled or completely removed. It hasn't glitched once yet.

I decided to leave it enabled, knowing I can always ditch it again if my APC ever starts acting up.

Next, I tried disabling Rev Matching. Doing so was easy enough, but I can't say that I do the throttle blips better on my own than the car does them in Rev Match Sport mode. Eh...either way is fine. I didn't notice any difference. It's nice to have the option, though.

I'm still on the fence about the ITS module. Once I get the cracked windshield replaced and the dashboard buzz eliminated, the car will be complete...except for that one ADS module question. I don't see myself dicking around with the Active Valve fuse-dance mod, or any exhaust mods. I almost certainly will not be adding any engine tunes, and I'm leaning against doing any window tinting or PPF.

It's basically now down to the ITS vs CTR ADS module.

Here's one thing to consider. The coolant expansion tank design is crap. I have CTR in my driveway I won't drive because the coolant tank failed at 10 months (19k miles) and the dealer can't get the part in for a week. A plastic pressurized tank that is a 2-piece design is destined to fail at the seem and they do .... I went with the Mishimoto tank, but there a few aftermarket options. This is something I would definitely put on my list to replace.

 

[VLJ]

Updates...

Finally had the opportunity to bring the car back to the selling dealer to check whether they performed the two other PDI items I was worried they'd skipped, since they skipped setting the tire pressures. They immediately put the car on the lift and we checked together, confirming that they did in fact remove the suspension blocks during the original PDI, and the body plugs had been installed.

On a different front, I also had the cracked windshield replaced yesterday with the OEM item.

Holy crap. $2,430 was the bill they sent to my insurance company. $2,430, for a basic Civic windshield? This thing doesn't have acoustic insulation, or anything unusual or expensive. The windshield was over $1,700, while the rest was a littany of recalibration charges.

A buddy recently had to replace the much larger acoustic windshield on his 2024 Toyota Grand Highlander Hybrid Max, and even that thing was only $2,000, all in. How in the hell is a plain Civic windshield so expensive?

Man, are they robbing my insurance company, who will, of course, pass on that robbery to me, by raisng my rates for having a $2,430 claim on my record now. That's what a fender bender used to run. Now it's a basic Civic windshield. Damn.

Speaking of the new windshield, something absolutely bizarre seems to have occured as a result of its installation...

The car has always had a really bad dashboard buzz in the area around the infotainment screen. It's been there since the initial test drive, and while it was reduced a decent bit once I lowered the tire pressures from the dealer's 53 cold PSI to 35/33 cold PSI, it never went away. It remained somewhat intermittent, but probably 80-90% of the time it at least buzzed whenever I hit 4,500 RPM. It sometimes started at 3,800 RPM, and it might do it any time I was anywhere between 3,800-4,500, but it always did it precisely at 4,500. It never did it above 4,500, however, no matter how high I went, nor did it ever do it below 3,800.

4,500 RPM on the dot, though, like clockwork. Buzzed like crazy.

Not anymore. The moment I drove out of the windshield place, I accelerated up to 5,000 to avoid getting clobbered by a 370Z that was coming up on me fast.

Hmmm. Nothing. No buzz.

Once I was in the clear, I slowed down and dropped a gear, bringing it into the 4,500 range. I hung right there, moving the car back and forth through 4,500, and...nothing. No sound at all from the dash.

I then took her up onto the freeway, where she always buzzes at 4,500, every time I merge into traffic, or speed up to pass someone.

Again...nothing.

I spent the rest of yesterday and quite a bit of today driving her on all sorts of roads, ripping up and down the tach, and all the buzzing is simply gone. I can't make it buzz now, no matter what I do. Even the seatbelt height adjuster stopped buzzing, once I raised it to its highest position. Driving on the freeway now, all I get is a ton of tire roar and wind noise, but no buzzes anywhere.

No clue what happened. Somehow, simply replacing the windshield seems to have eliminated the constant buzzing from the dashboard. I don't see how the two could be directly related, but it sure seems to be the case.

I also sure hope it stays gone, because it's awfully nice now to have an FL5 that is just...normal. No giant crack in the windshield right in my line of sight, no buzzing from the dashboard every time I leave a stoplight. It's just a normal car now, that happens to be unusually fast when I want it to be.

The other cool thing the service writer did for me today was he listened to my story about what I read here concerning the dahsboard buzzing. I told him that someone here posted a picture of Honda's TSB concerning this same issue on the '22 Civic, and we spent the next ten minutes surfing this site looking for that thread/post. Eventually we went on Youtube and looked for it that way, until we stumbled upon the perfect video, in which the dude posted the TSB notice.

The service writer copied down the number, looked it up, and voilà, there it was in his system. He printed up a copy of it for me in case the buzzing returns, telling me it will be no problem getting it fixed under warranty with that TSB in hand.

For those who are interested, here it is...

Taking her back to my favorite bumpy test "track" to check the suspension yet again, it was a tale of two roads. The twisty road leading to the very bumpy road had me thinking that Sport mode was completely fine, and definitely the mode to use. Once I hit that bumpier road, however, holy hell, did the pogoing go crazy. It was really bad. Being a glutton for punishment, I then tried switching to +R mode, which actually was slightly better, somehow. It still wasn't good, but it was bouncing me around less than Sport mode did. Then I switched to Comfort, and everything calmed down quite a bit, although there was still too much vertical movement, especially in the back.

It was a confusing test. The majority of the time, I was becoming convinced that the stock CTR module is fine. It was firm, edgy, sharp, fun, all those good things. Then, though, it all unraveled on that one road with the stutter bumps. That road was at least acceptable in Comfort mode, but it was clear that it could and should be better.

Topher stated in one of the roundtable discussions that the CTR suspension learns and adapts to one's personal driving habits. I don't know whether that's true, or whether this means that it learns to smooth itself out when pushed hard on bumpy roads, but he piqued my curiosity there. Now I'm wondering whether the car will get "better" the more I drive it.

Is that even possible? Can the car change its suspension behavior over time to smooth itself out, based on learning the driver's habits?

Sounds mighty implausible to me, but I'm no suspension engineer. Maybe the game really has advanced to that degree, and I'm just ignorant as hell.

In the meantime, I'm thinking the ITS module is probably still the way to go for me. If Sport and +R mode are both made more usable, while not becoming too soft and floaty, and Comfort mode becomes sort of genuinely "comfortable," then why not, right?

 

[BoostBlueFL5Rawr]

Speaking of the Boost Blue, I thought that the car image is supposed to appear in the body color in the screen animations, but my animations showed a white one. I looked and looked, but couldn't find a way to switch it to blue. Is there a way to do this, or are we stuck with white there?

Sorry if it was posted already but here is how you can change the LogR settings for the color of your car.

 

[VLJ]

Yep, I already figured out how to switch the color in the LogR display, but I want to switch it in the main display too. Apparently that's not an option. LogR only, it seems.

 

[hhkb]

Updates...

Finally had the opportunity to bring the car back to the selling dealer to check whether they performed the two other PDI items I was worried they'd skipped, since they skipped setting the tire pressures. They immediately put the car on the lift and we checked together, confirming that they did in fact remove the suspension blocks during the original PDI, and the body plugs had been installed.

On a different front, I also had the cracked windshield replaced yesterday with the OEM item.

Holy crap. $2,430 was the bill they sent to my insurance company. $2,430, for a basic Civic windshield? This thing doesn't have acoustic insulation, or anything unusual or expensive. The windshield was over $1,700, while the rest was a littany of recalibration charges.

A buddy recently had to replace the much larger acoustic windshield on his 2024 Toyota Grand Highlander Hybrid Max, and even that thing was only $2,000, all in. How in the hell is a plain Civic windshield so expensive?

Man, are they robbing my insurance company, who will, of course, pass on that robbery to me, by raisng my rates for having a $2,430 claim on my record now. That's what a fender bender used to run. Now it's a basic Civic windshield. Damn.

Speaking of the new windshield, something absolutely bizarre seems to have occured as a result of its installation...

The car has always had a really bad dashboard buzz in the area around the infotainment screen. It's been there since the initial test drive, and while it was reduced a decent bit once I lowered the tire pressures from the dealer's 53 cold PSI to 35/33 cold PSI, it never went away. It remained somewhat intermittent, but probably 80-90% of the time it at least buzzed whenever I hit 4,500 RPM. It sometimes started at 3,800 RPM, and it might do it any time I was anywhere between 3,800-4,500, but it always did it precisely at 4,500. It never did it above 4,500, however, no matter how high I went, nor did it ever do it below 3,800.

4,500 RPM on the dot, though, like clockwork. Buzzed like crazy.

Not anymore. The moment I drove out of the windshield place, I accelerated up to 5,000 to avoid getting clobbered by a 370Z that was coming up on me fast.

Hmmm. Nothing. No buzz.

Once I was in the clear, I slowed down and dropped a gear, bringing it into the 4,500 range. I hung right there, moving the car back and forth through 4,500, and...nothing. No sound at all from the dash.

I then took her up onto the freeway, where she always buzzes at 4,500, every time I merge into traffic, or speed up to pass someone.

Again...nothing.

I spent the rest of yesterday and quite a bit of today driving her on all sorts of roads, ripping up and down the tach, and all the buzzing is simply gone. I can't make it buzz now, no matter what I do. Even the seatbelt height adjuster stopped buzzing, once I raised it to its highest position. Driving on the freeway now, all I get is a ton of tire roar and wind noise, but no buzzes anywhere.

No clue what happened. Somehow, simply replacing the windshield seems to have eliminated the constant buzzing from the dashboard. I don't see how the two could be directly related, but it sure seems to be the case.

I also sure hope it stays gone, because it's awfully nice now to have an FL5 that is just...normal. No giant crack in the windshield right in my line of sight, no buzzing from the dashboard every time I leave a stoplight. It's just a normal car now, that happens to be unusually fast when I want it to be.

The other cool thing the service writer did for me today was he listened to my story about what I read here concerning the dahsboard buzzing. I told him that someone here posted a picture of Honda's TSB concerning this same issue on the '22 Civic, and we spent the next ten minutes surfing this site looking for that thread/post. Eventually we went on Youtube and looked for it that way, until we stumbled upon the perfect video, in which the dude posted the TSB notice.

The service writer copied down the number, looked it up, and voilà, there it was in his system. He printed up a copy of it for me in case the buzzing returns, telling me it will be no problem getting it fixed under warranty with that TSB in hand.

For those who are interested, here it is...

Taking her back to my favorite bumpy test "track" to check the suspension yet again, it was a tale of two roads. The twisty road leading to the very bumpy road had me thinking that Sport mode was completely fine, and definitely the mode to use. Once I hit that bumpier road, however, holy hell, did the pogoing go crazy. It was really bad. Being a glutton for punishment, I then tried switching to +R mode, which actually was slightly better, somehow. It still wasn't good, but it was bouncing me around less than Sport mode did. Then I switched to Comfort, and everything calmed down quite a bit, although there was still too much vertical movement, especially in the back.

It was a confusing test. The majority of the time, I was becoming convinced that the stock CTR module is fine. It was firm, edgy, sharp, fun, all those good things. Then, though, it all unraveled on that one road with the stutter bumps. That road was at least acceptable in Comfort mode, but it was clear that it could and should be better.

Topher stated in one of the roundtable discussions that the CTR suspension learns and adapts to one's personal driving habits. I don't know whether that's true, or whether this means that it learns to smooth itself out when pushed hard on bumpy roads, but he piqued my curiosity there. Now I'm wondering whether the car will get "better" the more I drive it.

Is that even possible? Can the car change its suspension behavior over time to smooth itself out, based on learning the driver's habits?

Sounds mighty implausible to me, but I'm no suspension engineer. Maybe the game really has advanced to that degree, and I'm just ignorant as hell.

In the meantime, I'm thinking the ITS module is probably still the way to go for me. If Sport and +R mode are both made more usable, while not becoming too soft and floaty, and Comfort mode becomes sort of genuinely "comfortable," then why not, right?

Nice write up, and it seems like your judgement is on par with many other drivers and owners of the FL5. I don’t even have my car yet and I have the ITS module on order. I’m also a glutton for punishment but I’m also 15 years older since I had my last modified car.

 

[VLJ]

I'm not really a glutton for punishment, yet I can't help but switch to +R after a while, any time I try Sport mode. This is my first car with drive modes, so I'm always playing with them, wanting to learn everything I can about each one.

Bottom line, I really don't want the suspension to be softer. I enjoy how firmly it handles. I especially love the lack of body roll, along with the crazy turn-in and exit launch from that magical front end.

I don't want it softer, but I do want less bouncy pogoing over bumpy surfaces. That's the only reason I'm interested in the ITS module. So many people have commented that it reduces the pogoing much more than it reduces the firmness. To me, that sounds fairly close to ideal.

 

[Gansan]

Topher stated in one of the roundtable discussions that the CTR suspension learns and adapts to one's personal driving habits. I don't know whether that's true, or whether this means that it learns to smooth itself out when pushed hard on bumpy roads, but he piqued my curiosity there. Now I'm wondering whether the car will get "better" the more I drive it.

Is that even possible? Can the car change its suspension behavior over time to smooth itself out, based on learning the driver's habits?

Sounds mighty implausible to me, but I'm no suspension engineer. Maybe the game really has advanced to that degree, and I'm just ignorant as hell.

It doesn't exactly "learn" from your habits. What's happening is the damper behaviors are software-defined, updated many times per second. There are accelerometers monitoring G-forces, position sensors that know what the wheels are doing, steering wheel input, and all that goes into an tunable algorithm. If you corner, the outside dampers stiffen up. Apply hard braking and the front dampers stiffen, moment by moment. That's what he's talking about. The result is if you are driving hard, you get a very different result than calmly going down the same road and same bumps.

Edit: This patent, which I'm hoping is related to this,

https://patents.google.com/patent/US11090996B2/en

shows that the suspension behaviors (in this case, roll rate) they are targeting are at least partially based on vehicle speed Vx. I interpret the roll rate as meaning the rate at which the car body leans over as you put in steering input.

You can see that roll rate is less as vehicle speed is higher, which means it's stiffer and cornering flatter. I might be wrong and if so someone can correct me.

Edit 2: Ah here's a relevant paragraph.

The front and rear distribution ratio computation part 61 sets the front and rear distribution ratio Rfr such that the target damping forces Dfl, Dfr of the dampers 6 fl, 6 fr corresponding to the front wheels 2 fl, 2 fr become greater as the vehicle speed Vx becomes higher. Thereby, the dampers 6 fl, 6 fr corresponding to the front wheels 2 fl, 2 fr become less easy to retract, and therefore, a front-down pitch behavior (nose dive) of the vehicle 100 is suppressed. As a result, the center of gravity of the vehicle 100 becomes less likely to move forward in an operating condition where the vehicle speed Vx is high, and therefore, the travel stability of the vehicle 100 is improved. On the other hand, the front and rear distribution ratio computation part 61 sets the front and rear distribution ratio Rfr such that the target damping forces Dfl, Dfr of the dampers 6 fl, 6 fr corresponding to the front wheels 2 fl, 2 fr become smaller as the vehicle speed Vx becomes lower. Thereby, the dampers 6 fl, 6 fr corresponding to the front wheels 2 fl, 2 fr become easier to retract, and therefore, the front-down pitch behavior of the vehicle 100 is promoted. As a result, the center of gravity of the vehicle 100becomes more likely to move forward, and therefore, the turning performance of the vehicle 100 is improved when the vehicle speed Vx is low.

They state that as vehicle speed is higher, the target damping goes up: " the target damping forces Dfl, Dfr of the dampers 6 fl, 6 fr corresponding to the front wheels 2 fl, 2 fr become greater as the vehicle speed Vx becomes higher"

 

[VLJ]

None of that sounds like it changes the suspension behavior over time, or learns, or adapts. Instead, it makes real-time adjustments based on the current speed.

Doesn’t sound like anything will change for me then.

 

[AUGM1]

Yep, I already figured out how to switch the color in the LogR display, but I want to switch it in the main display too. Apparently that's not an option. LogR only, it seems.

Yea, my car is BB but looks like a Sonic Grey with a white roof in the main cluster.

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