🚀 tezzasaurusrex - Build Journal

[tezzasaurusrex]

Had the opportunity to meet Jomoto San on the weekend who I'm sure you're all familiar with.

I did mention to him that we need more 10" wide rim options - time will tell if he takes my request seriously

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[FreshFL5]

That is super cool!! Did you get any inside info on the release of future spoon parts? I know the lip is coming soon

Had the opportunity to meet Jomoto San on the weekend who I'm sure you're all familiar with.

I did mention to him that we need more 10" wide rim options - time will tell if he takes my request seriously

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

That is super cool!! Did you get any inside info on the release of future spoon parts? I know the lip is coming soon

They are tight lipped as always - but they are working on a 19" set of SW388's, and we saw the prototype bonnet vent and carbon front lip which looks awesome (check Spoon USA's instagram for photos).

 

[CTR]

They are tight lipped as always - but they are working on a 19" set of SW388's, and we saw the prototype bonnet vent and carbon front lip which looks awesome (check Spoon USA's instagram for photos).

I don't want to clog up your build thread but did you get any details on the SW388 in regards to offset? I'm starting to think the 19" wheels are perfect for the FL5 after going back to stock temporarily. Maybe with a less aggressive offset than their 18" +40. If they could pull off a 19x9.5 +50 or something close to that it would likely be incredible.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

I don't want to clog up your build thread but did you get any details on the SW388 in regards to offset? I'm starting to think the 19" wheels are perfect for the FL5 after going back to stock temporarily. Maybe with a less aggressive offset than their 18" +40. If they could pull off a 19x9.5 +50 or something close to that it would likely be incredible.

I believe it will be ET40 IIRC but don't quote me on it. I agree with you, they need to make higher offset and wider rims. Ie. more 10 and 10.5" wide options at ~ET50

 

[Clark_Kent]

I believe it will be ET40 IIRC but don't quote me on it. I agree with you, they need to make higher offset and wider rims. Ie. more 10 and 10.5" wide options at ~ET50

ET45

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Eibach rear camber arms fitted along with the custom offset camber shims for the Hardrace front ball joints.
Also bled the brakes with Motul RBF700 (600 didn't quite cut it). Will continue to run the stock brake pads/rotors for now and see if the weak link is the brake fluid.

Pretty impressed by the quality of the Eibach arms however like @jonnys_honda I think the M8 pinch bolt system can be improved upon with flanged high tensile hardware.
Torquing up an M8 bolt/nut to 20ft-lbs/27Nm spec is a little nerve wracking to say the least
The bolt is a metric M8 X 1.25 (30mm length) if anyone wishes to prepare for the worst lol
The 17mm Hex Head control arm bolts (both inner and outer) are 76Nm.

Camber is now at
FR -3.5°
RR -2.5°

 

[keller]

Eibach rear camber arms fitted along with the custom offset camber shims for the Hardrace front ball joints.

Pretty impressed by the quality of the Eibach arms however like @jonnys_honda I think the M8 pinch bolt system can be improved upon with flanged high tensile hardware.
Torquing up an M8 bolt/nut to 20ft-lbs/27Nm spec is a little nerve wracking to say the least
The bolt is a metric M8 X 1.25 (30mm length) if anyone wishes to prepare for the worst lol

Camber is now at
FR -3.5°
RR -2.5°

Very nice! I purchased SPC rear camber arms, but haven't installed them yet. Increasing the rear camber won't affect the rotation of the car mid corner? Did you have to adjust the stroke sensor position somehow? And has your toe in angle changed?

At least on the 10th gens, people say the left side arm is a PITA to remove because of the fuel tank position.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Very nice! I purchased SPC rear camber arms, but haven't installed them yet. Increasing the rear camber won't affect the rotation of the car mid corner? Did you have to adjust the stroke sensor position somehow? And has your toe in angle changed?

At least on the 10th gens, people say the left side arm is a PITA to remove because of the fuel tank position.

I've increased both front and rear by -0.7° and -0.5° respectively to maintain handling balance and get a little bit more use out of the inside of the RE71RS on track.

For reference the previous settings were:
FR -2.8° `~ -2.7°
RR -2.0°

The arms come with the ride height sensor brackets which position them in the stock position so I had no trouble there.

The camber arm inner bolt (at the subframe) is indeed a little tricky to get to - I used a 3/8"snap-on flex head bent handle with a normal 17mm socket and had no issues. Without the flex head it would have been a bit more of a struggle on the fuel filler side.

Rear toe went in by +0.25mm either side from the -0.5° camber increase.
So its up to +1.5mm combined now (was testing +1mm combined). Still running zero in the front.

 

[keller]

The arms come with the ride height sensor brackets which position them in the stock position so I had no trouble there.

Oh I see. I thought they had some kind of adjustment to make. Thanks for the answers.

Btw, I once saw a post on your ig about chassis tuning books. I purchased them both and I'm really enjoying learning from them. Thank you for that!

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

So I did the valves a while back (at around 1500km on the ODO) but thought I'd share my findings here.
I found they were all quite loose across the board, which I was suprised to see being such a low mileage car.
Now I've adjusted hundreds if not thousands of Honda motor valves in my time (from D series, though to K) and the one thing that I've taken away is that they can really be quite random in the way they wear in, some will tighten which is caused by the valve stem stretching or the valve seat wearing in, while others will loosen caused by wear of the valve lash adjuster/rocker arm pivots etc.
I'm not going to go out and say you should all have them adjusted on your first service, and frankly the valves are better being on the loose side than being too tight, but its a good thing to do if you are so inclined to keep your engine in tip top health.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Last night's twilight session at Sydney Motorsport Park was a great success.
Heavy rain in the afternoon had discouraged many potential attendee's, so the track attendance went from 47 down to 27. With three groups of drivers, it meant that there were less than 10 cars per group - which proved to be perfect PB beating conditions as the track dried up exceptionally quickly.

I might add that the addition of Titanium brake pad shims for the front brakes, and Motul RBF700 fluid has enabled the pedal to suffer no fade/sponginess throughout the sessions. I'm really quite impressed by the stock pads at this stage.. The data shows i'm consistently generating over 1G on the brakes too.

Video Link of PB lap:

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Updates have been slow... But Tein Mono Racing Coilovers are in, and PRL lower motor mount.
I also replaced the stock front rotors as all the track abuse has caused excessive clearance in the rotor bobbins resulting in a horrible clicking noise occuring when turning. This is all sorted with new oem rotors.. cheap too.

Review on Tein Mono Racing Coilovers:
Stock rates are 14/12kg. I ordered my set with 12/10kg springs and ended up settling with 9kg front and 10kg rear to get the front end to bite harder.
They've been on the car for 2.5 months now and so far really happy with these coilovers. I'm running the Hardrace ball joints back on the middle setting with the struts adjusted close to max negative to achieve -3.7°
This setting reduces the scrub radius from having the ball joint set to max on stock strut tops. It also nets greater wheel/guard clearance for a more aggressive set up I've got lined up further down the track.
I also love how compact and light the Tein error cancellers are compared to Ohlins or the like.
Track testing to come.

PRL rear motor mount review: great mod. Little extra NVH but worth it for how much more alive the car feels. Axle tramp still occurs in 1st but the shift from 1st to 2nd is much cleaner and there's just overall less driveline slop. Highly recommend this one as it strikes a good balance between road manners and performance.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Additionally, the Spoon spring spacers have been officially developed.
Fitting them results in a perfectly level wheel arch gap on all FL5's with the Spoon springs.
Send me a DM if you wish to purchase a pair, thankfully they are very light weight so international shipping should be reasonably priced.

A note on the Spoon spring spacers, I've now installed several sets of new release Spoon springs (now have thicker and higher quality black spring insulator on them) and have discovered they no longer sit low in the rear.

So for anyone who have the new release springs, you do not need the spacer I developed to raise the rear end.

If your springs have blue insulators on the front, then you have the original batch which from my observations all sit low in the rear.

If you have any questions feel free to respond here or send me a PM.

Thanks all

 

[CTR]

A note on the Spoon spring spacers, I've now installed several sets of new release Spoon springs (now have thicker and higher quality black spring insulator on them) and have discovered they no longer sit low in the rear.

So for anyone who have the new release springs, you do not need the spacer I developed to raise the rear end.

Thank you for reporting back! That's definitely interesting and important info for anyone looking at Spoon springs going forward.

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