285–295 Tire Setup – Wheel Specs & Fitment?

[optronix]

That's simply not true. There's plenty of posts around here showing that even Cup2 only shaves off a few seconds on a 2 minute lap vs PS4S. You would really only need something above PS4S if you are seriously racing. Casual track days and autocross PS4S is plenty.

You know, I actually caught myself for a second. My first reaction was to give my usual flippant reaction that I've defaulted to on these forums for years... but I stopped myself and remembered "that's not who I am. I'm a professional, courteous, friendly adult who enjoys helping people on these forums."

Then I had a sudden burst of recollection sparked from your Clarkson pic, and I remembered this gem:

Type S is a watered down Type R- it doesn't in any way satisfy the same enthusiast itch and it is nowhere near as special.

So now that that's out of the way.

Christ, please stop. If you think the PS4S is the "gold standard", keep on thinking that. And while you're at it, keep on thinking the Type S is a "watered down Type R" that "doesn't satisfy the enthusiast itch."

Meanwhile, us folk who actually DRIVE our cars and know what we're talking about are trying to have a conversation.

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[ctechauto]

 

[MooMoo]

Optronix here with the receipts lol

 

[Allthingsfl5]

PS4S is MANY (MANY is significant) seconds slower than a super 200tw tire even with a novice driver. Even Cup2 is slower than a super 200 (Nankang CR-S, A052, RE71-RZ, etc) and barely on part with endurance 200 like RS4, AD09, RT660+ etc. You'd have to go up to a Cup2R for super 200 level performance. PS4S is not a good track tire. For a street tire, its great (although we prefer the V601), but it is far from the "gold standard" especially when talking about track tires. Good tires (again, not PS4S) will shave laptimes over any other mod (besides a driver mod).

Why do you prefer the V601 over the ps4s? Mostly just price for same performance I assume?

 

[ctechauto]

Why do you prefer the V601 over the ps4s, other than price of course.

The feedback mostly. Felt PS4S have always been a little "numb"

 

[optronix]

Optronix here with the receipts lol

Some people just cross a line where the projected value of future conversation diminishes to a point it's no longer worth the effort of clicking the "ignore" button. So I try to have them do it for me.

Back on topic, I actually love the PS4S for the street. I kept my 19" wheels around specifically to run PS4S on the street. The DT1 or whatever compound on this platform specifically is noticeably better in my opinion for giving a great "6-7/10ths" feel- without all the extra NVH from a super 200 (I'm almost scared what the RE-71RZ sitting in my garage are going to sound like...). They're also literally dirt cheap- it cost me more for mulch in my yard than the $400 I spent for a secondhand set of DT1 PS4S with plenty of life left. They can even get through a day on a track by a novice driver. But they completely dissolve once any pace gets added (and might fly off the wheel completely), and it's just hilarious to see people (our guy Dave is not the first...) try to claim that only "a few seconds" in lap time isn't that much of a difference. Especially for "autocross is fine".

Seriously, seconds don't matter in autocross? It is routine that the difference from 1st place and 15th boils down to a few tenths.

It's just the type of blatant ignorance that drives me NUTS on these forums.

 

[Rexpelagi]

I ran 285/30R18 square on 18x11 ET44 stock w/pins pulled, with lowering springs/camber plates, and on coilovers (I only ran ~-2.75° front camber also). I had no issues with rubbing on either stock shock configuration, and on coilovers the only potential issue is slight interference with the strut ears against the inside wheel barrel ID only at full lock as the wheel articulates in (strut-design specific), so you can get slight rubbing (or just don't go full lock and/or install steering limiters) - really only an issue maneuvering the car at low speeds (ie, parking).

Lowering springs:

Coilovers / reverse stagger:

https://apexwheels.com/wheels/flow-...0mm-or-7256mm&frontQty=1&frontSize=18x11-et44

The car performed better with 255/35R18 on 18x9.5 ET35 in the back (reverse stagger), but it still worked well square.

 

[J_D]

There are no tires worth spending money on in 285/35/18 #hottake

genuine question, what about the Hankook RS4s? I’m debating the RS4 in 285/35 or 265/35

 

[MooMoo]

genuine question, what about the Hankook RS4s? I’m debating the RS4 in 285/35 or 265/35

RS4s are good seat time tires, imo nothing like them. They are slow though, very old tech but they will last forever.

 

[ctechauto]

genuine question, what about the Hankook RS4s? I’m debating the RS4 in 285/35 or 265/35

RS4s have been one of the go-to endurance 200TW tires for like a decade. Are they as fast as other endurance focused 200TW like AD09 or RT660+ ? no, but still a solid option.

 

[J_D]

RS4s are good seat time tires, imo nothing like them. They are slow though, very old tech but they will last forever.

That is what I’m looking for, consistency. I figure the minor increase in rubber could get marginally more thermal capacity

 

[iforgettopee]

That is what I’m looking for, consistency. I figure the minor increase in rubber could get marginally more thermal capacity

V730 > RS4 any day for me...

V730 in 275/35 is better than RS4 in 285/35 - V730 is faster, plenty durable, and cheaper than the RS4.

there are so many better options at the same price point of RS4, it doesn't make any sense to get them unless you're endurance racing - even then, the maxxis VR2 is probably a better choice

edit: I just thought of one good reason to get RS4's - just so you can blame the tire for being slow

 

[ctechauto]

V730 > RS4 any day for me...

I forgot the V730 exists at all

 

[iforgettopee]

I forgot the V730 exists at all

shame on you!

I think it's worth adding to this thread that Kazuo mounted 295/30/18 RT660+ on 18x10 +40 wheels
and needed to run -3.7 camber in the rear - I assume to avoid rubbing
-2.9 front camber is modest

personally, I think I would stick to a 255/265/275max rear tire since getting a 295 rear tire up to temp takes too long

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/kazuo_wfc-2025-civic-type-r-build.64023/post-1074402

 

[ctechauto]

shame on you!

I think it's worth adding to this thread that Kazuo mounted 295/30/18 RT660+ on 18x10 +40 wheels
and needed to run -3.7 camber in the rear - I assume to avoid rubbing
-2.9 front camber is modest

personally, I think I would stick to a 255/265/275max rear tire since getting a 295 rear tire up to temp takes too long

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/kazuo_wfc-2025-civic-type-r-build.64023/post-1074402

This doesnt make any sense as far as the rears go. Our FL5 is at -2.5⁰ rear camber on 18x10 +40 285/30/18 AD09 and theres a lot of room from sidewall to fender. Like 10-12mm. Each degree of camber is about 8mm. Rear track width is narrower than the front so more camber is needed up front to clear squared wheels/tires the same.

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