FL5 Overheated on Track

Vito.FL5

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did you receive this hood? im thinking of getting it.
It traveled from china to Florida, then to Brazil WITHOUT A BOX lol

and arived unharmed.

here is a video of it at the import company:


Now It has to move anotehr 600 miles to arive at me, wich is a pita because freigh companies here are the worse.
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BuntaTypeR

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It traveled from china to Florida, then to Brazil WITHOUT A BOX lol

and arived unharmed.

here is a video of it at the import company:


Now It has to move anotehr 600 miles to arive at me, wich is a pita because freigh companies here are the worse.
it looks great. did it fit well? ill probably get it as soon as my car is lowered.
 

Backmarker

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Yeah IAT don't really have anything to do with engine overheating. I do agree that if the R was being built again from the ground up there are a few design features that could be changed to make the car run cooler both with regards to ECT/Oil and IATs.

All that aside it's what it is. I'm not sure how many of you come from the 10th gen/fk8 world but overheating is something that's been talked about extensively, and most simply could not solve the problem. The solution that seemed to be the most successful is really a holistic approach (increasing cool air in with a larger grill, increasing hot air exiting with a vented hood, secondary front mounted radiator which increases coolant volume and cooling surface area, single or more ideally a dual oil cooler set up to again increase fluid volume and surface area, not as critical but helpful to some degree is running an ethanol blend which burns a little cooler).

All aspects are important, but I would say the secondary radiator and oil coolers are the most important elements. Next would be air in and air out pathway.

The fl5 seems to do a solid job from factory with air in/air out with the mostly open grill and the small vent in the hood. I'm sure this can be improved with some of the aftermarket hood options, but it may not be necessary (I think it's still to early to know for sure at this point).

Talking with PWR they seem to think that the oil is the primary culprit and they are hopeful their front mounted oil cooler will do the trick. I think they are on the right track but I am unsure if it will be enough. I have no doubt their core is second to none, but as we saw on the fk8, everyone was running a single oil cooler in the lower fake vent area and it alone didn't really change the game.

From my own experience, along with several other people's experiences it was the introduction of the front mounted secondary radiator (along with an oil cooler or 2, and the other ancillary mods) that really tipped the scales. I really and truly believe it is critical to have supplemental direct cooling for both the coolant and oil to solve this problem.

The HRC DE5 tcx car developers seem to agree considering they are using a dual oil cooler set up along with a PWR race radiator with no AC condenser, as well as a seibon vented hood.

I will be testing to see if our fk8 secondary radiator kit can be made to work on the fl5, I'm waiting on it to arrive in the mail. My goal is to see if I can mount it to the OEM crash bar and have everything still fit and link up. We shall see. If this doesn't work there are still a couple of other ideas on this front that I'm sure will work.

Additionally we are working on a dual oil cooler set up that the average person would be willing to install. If we wanted the dead on best method we would just cut some holes and install some intake ducts to feed air to a pair of oil coolers, one on each side. But we know that most people won't be too keen on cutting big holes in their bumpers, so the challenge is providing air to said coolers with minimal modification. We are working on a couple of ideas at the moment and then will be testing. As mentioned in an earlier post I know that there's also a shop in the bay area who is developing a kit with a similar concept. I would image both will be in testing late this summer or in the fall at the latest. As mentioned PWR is about to release their core as well which might also do the trick.

All said, it's a matter of getting some oil coolers and possibly a secondary radiator in place to directly cool the hot fluids, this is for sure the most important factor. Add some hood vents or an aftermarket hood, and possibly an even more open grill and I think we'll be in about as good of a spot as we could realistically hope for (without removing the AC).
This is awesome and sounds like exactly the right approach.

question in the interim… do the dual radiator approaches leverage the stock radiator or aftermarket? I have been looking at aftermarket but would probably hold off if it will cause fitment issues.
 


siwelnosaj

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This is awesome and sounds like exactly the right approach.

question in the interim… do the dual radiator approaches leverage the stock radiator or aftermarket? I have been looking at aftermarket but would probably hold off if it will cause fitment issues.
I'm not clear what you're asking exactly with the radiator set up?
 

BuntaTypeR

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It traveled from china to Florida, then to Brazil WITHOUT A BOX lol

and arived unharmed.

here is a video of it at the import company:


Now It has to move anotehr 600 miles to arive at me, wich is a pita because freigh companies here are the worse.

can you share the link of where you got this? im going to get it as well.

have you installed it yet to your car?

11th Gen Honda Civic FL5 Overheated on Track 1718074268426-ql

looks like you can unscrew it for more air. great for track days!
 

Rhorn

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Where did you install the sender? Honda's model estimates oil temp at the sump.

A few people did this comparison for the fk8, me included. I have a p3 gauge and an aem sender at the drain bolt. I had to linearize the calibration curve, but it's supposed to be pretty accurate for the range 80-130 C - less than 0.2% deviation. Well, logr is surprisingly accurate enough. I even considered removing the sender and gauge after 2 trackdays, but will keep them because I'm installing oil coolers. During road driving, it deviates less than 3 C. On track, I noticed Honda's model has a too short time constant. Oil takes a lot longer to get hot and then cool down. After this transient deviation right after starting a hot lap, it's at most 6 C wrong. The FL5 model could be even better.

Btw, at least in the fk8 the calculation doesn't use oil pressure. I suppose it's the same with the fl5, Vito could confirm it.
Does the oil temp gauge take in account the oil weight as well? Like if you have a thinner oil like 0W-20 vs a thicker one like 5W-30 does LogR account for that?
 

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Does the oil temp gauge take in account the oil weight as well? Like if you have a thinner oil like 0W-20 vs a thicker one like 5W-30 does LogR account for that?
My understanding is that the algorithm is based on having 0w20, so anything else used will not be accounted for. Just one more reason I decided to install a dedicated gauge to monitor oil temp.
 

Rhorn

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My understanding is that the algorithm is based on having 0w20, so anything else used will not be accounted for. Just one more reason I decided to install a dedicated gauge to monitor oil temp.
Is it pretty easy to install that?
 


Rhorn

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Installing the gauge was very easy, as was installing the sensor, the harder part is the wiring and making it clean
Did use a any videos as a reference? I did a quick search online and really didn't find any DIY guides
 

siwelnosaj

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Did use a any videos as a reference? I did a quick search online and really didn't find any DIY guides
I used their install video for the gauge, but the wiring is just a matter of having some electronic awareness and also figuring out how you want to run the wires to hide them
 

Rhorn

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Here's a link to my ig where I have several pics of my install

Wow thats really nice. The pictures help but without much context it'll be pretty hard for me to decipher what's going on. I definitely would need a guide or a set of instructions lol.

That's a really clean setup though and seems like it requires no drilling
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