Stock suspension removal question

[pnw_fl5]

I have a set of Spoon Springs coming in soon. After reading the mental stress the front suspension removal is on the FL5, I wanted to get the forum consensus - Do you have to remove the axle nut in order to remove the suspension assembly? I've seen some people do it and others not. Also any tips or tricks on getting those out would be appreciated!

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[blitz423]

Take it out of the hub so you don't risk popping out the spider roller. It's only 1 nut so zap it with an impact. I think the spline didn't have to completely come out but gives the hub more room without extending the axle too much. When you are done torque it to spec and then stake it.

 

[MrBBQ]

I removed the axle nuts when I installed my Swift springs and pushed the axle inwards but not completely off the hub. It's easy to do with an impact gun, and significantly decreases the axle popping out of the transmission. Also, every millimeter of movement available is crucial for that last part of slipping the bottom part of the strut off the hub.

 

[blitz423]

I removed the axle nuts when I installed my Swift springs and pushed the axle inwards but not completely off the hub. It's easy to do with an impact gun, and significantly decreases the axle popping out of the transmission. Also, every millimeter of movement available is crucial for that last part of slipping the bottom part of the strut off the hub.

Every single thing this guy said is 100%.

 

[seabassi702]

I tried to install my springs and started with the front driver side. I did not loosen the axle nut. I got the strut tower like 90% of the way out but could not get it 100% out. I tried for like 2 hours and the I said F it. I put everything back together. I’ll pay someone to do this or try it again when I have some free time lol.

This was my first time doing springs myself. I’m glad I didn’t force it out as I’ve read on forums many people popped the axle out or break the seal. My fl5 only had 8k miles when I tried and it was a fight with a pry bar lol

 

[pnw_fl5]

Take it out of the hub so you don't risk popping out the spider roller. It's only 1 nut so zap it with an impact. I think the spline didn't have to completely come out but gives the hub more room without extending the axle too much. When you are done torque it to spec and then stake it.

Thanks for sending the torque specs here! Do you have torque specs for the other bolts that need to be removed to take out the suspension? I'm assuming they will be in the Spoon instructions, but I'm not certain they will be.

Also did you use a new nut (per the remark)? Or did you just reuse the original nut?

 

[alSpeed2k]

I did not, but it was real pain, lol. It definitely helped having a friend on hand to help get the shock out.

 

[pnw_fl5]

This was also an interesting removal process - first time seeing the ball joint removal technique.

 

[Ktrw]

This was also an interesting removal process - first time seeing the ball joint removal technique.

I also referenced this video (it hurt the process imo since it got things out of alignment), but I cannot emphasize enough how much I recommend you just remove the axle nut, as folks here have said. Getting the last little bit of the strut out is a massive PITA, and I ripped my axle seal on one side, which sucked. I imagine if I had just removed the axle nuts and pushed the axle back slightly, that would have given enough room for the struts to pop out of the cup.

If I ever have to remove the front struts again, I will be taking the axle nuts off and maybe getting a little spreader tool for the cup holding the strut.

 

[AZCWTypeR]

Axle nuts generally easy to remove with a strong impact wrench or a 4ft steel pipe over a good breaker bar.
Have someone push on the brakes to keep load off the CV joints and transmission.
Also buy new nuts to get a fresh collar to stake.
Back in the day and living far from a dealer, I sanded down the nut faces to get a fresh collar edge to stake. However I highly recommend buying nuts in advance of the job.

 

[Chilly613]

If you happen to have an impact wrench or able to do it with a breaker bar, I'd just take the axel nut off, you can try to reuse it or a couple of new ones from the dealer is like $9 each.

Here's the part number.

 

[Evox787]

I did mine with the axle nut removal, but it was not a fun task to remove the strut. The lower ball joints are also difficult to separate from the hub carrier. I used a ball joint separator tool, and after everything was set up, I tapped the tool a couple of times with a hammer—just light taps. I did it by myself in the garage, and I really recommend getting new axle nuts and removing them before starting.

Would I do this again to install coilovers or something similar? Absolutely not! I’ll only do it again when it’s time to replace the struts. After finishing the job, I suggest taking the car to a shop that has the alignment specs for the FL5. I learned this the hard way. After parts and installation, I couldn’t figure out why, with the H&R springs, my car was reading 2.3 to 2.7 degrees of negative camber in the front and rear. Turns out, the shop had used Civic Si specs, which might not match the FL5.

Another note: I don’t know your mileage, but mine has 35K, and the ball joint and front stopper link already had a lot of play. They weren’t nearly as stiff as new parts, which are normally hard to move side-to-side at the connection. But I got the upgrade what can I do now every piece on the rear will be adjustable and the lower ball joint on the front will be adjustable too.

 

[EtotheD]

Definitely remove the axle nuts. Mine went in a little over an inch on each side. Few other tips. As others have said, use a strut spindle spreader tool. I didn’t have to pry out the strut from the spindle with this. Leave the sway bar disconnected on both sides when removing the struts, you will make contact with it pushing the hub down. At least this gives you one less thing to fight, put a cloth to prevent marring. The hub naturally wants to tip forward at the top when you push down, keep it somewhat upright as possible while you push down. Grab the axel rod and push it inside every now then to make sure it’s getting movement and not binding at the teeth due to the angle. I used new nuts as well.

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