Alignment for daily life

[Evox787]

I know most of you here are probably trying to get the best possible performance out of our cars, but there are definitely some people who don’t really focus on that at all . I’m trying to figure out how I can improve my tire wear without sacrificing the driving feel of the car.

Yesterday, I posted pictures of my tires, and I’m planning to get them replaced today—I’ll share the update here as well. Someone pointed out that my alignment is probably out of spec. How can I be proactive in the future to avoid this?

I daily my Type R about 600 miles a week, sometimes a little more. Are there any bushings or suspension upgrades that could help make things more stable? Also, what kind of alignment numbers should I aim for? Another member here, @yeaitsahonda, posted the OEM specs (which I saved—super helpful info, by the way!).

How much can I tweak those numbers without compromising ride quality? I’m sure many of you have more experience with this since you’re more connected with the car and have way more aggressive seat time than I do .

 

[thatonedaveguy]

Standard maintenance procedure is:

• Rotate your tires every 5k miles
• Have an alignment done every 15k miles

Proper tire pressure also goes a long way to ensure long life of the tires. I make it a point to use a tire pump that lets you set the PSI for accuracy and use it once a month to ensure tires are always at proper psi as weather changes.

You should be able to get around 30k or a little more miles out of Michelin PS4S this way. (less if you are burning rubber all time of course)

 

[HondaHoon]

To properly answer your question, we need details. How many miles are on the tires you have photographed? What was the tire pressure you were running? When you have your alignment done, make sure to show what it was while you were running these tires. Are these images all of a singular tire? If so, which one out of the 4? Did you rotate your tires at all?

With this data, the members can steer you better.

Since there may have been many variables you did not know or were not aware of, FOR NOW, I would have the car set back to proper OEM alignment specs.

 

[Evox787]

Standard maintenance procedure is:

• Rotate your tires every 5k miles
• Have an alignment done every 15k miles

Proper tire pressure also goes a long way to ensure long life of the tires. I make it a point to use a tire pump that lets you set the PSI for accuracy and use it once a month to ensure tires are always at proper psi as weather changes.

You should be able to get around 30k or a little more miles out of Michelin PS4S this way. (less if you are burning rubber all time of course)

I rotate my tires with every oil change, every 5k miles, and I check the air every two weeks because of the type of driving I do. The tires, with 36k miles, still measure 6/32. This issue occurred between my last rotation and now. I’m not trying to be rude, but that wasn’t my question—please don’t assume what I do or don’t do for my car. Sorry if I sound harsh, but I’m not asking how to take care of the tires.

 

[Ohlins8990]

I was getting similar wear and had an alignment done. The as measured alignment was way out with a bunch of toe out front and rear. Presumably this was how the car shipped. I’m keeping an eye on it with the in spec alignment.

 

[Evox787]

To properly answer your question, we need details. How many miles are on the tires you have photographed? What was the tire pressure you were running? When you have your alignment done, make sure to show what it was while you were running these tires. Are these images all of a singular tire? If so, which one out of the 4? Did you rotate your tires at all?

With this data, the members can steer you better.

Since there may have been many variables you did not know or were not aware of, FOR NOW, I would have the car set back to proper OEM alignment specs.

Sorry for not being able to answer everything clearly. The alignment was done in September 2025, and I believe it meets factory specifications. I did not request any special adjustments. The car currently has 36,000 miles, and I drive an average of 600 miles per week, mostly highway miles. I keep the tire pressure at 35 psi in the front and 33 psi in the rear.

The image showing the most wear is of the driver’s front tire, followed by the passenger front and then the rears. I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles. The tread depth measurement from the outside to the inside is 6/32 to 5/32. For rotation, I move the rear tires to the front in a cross pattern, and the front tires go straight to the back in their original positions. Hope this could bring more information again I just try to get information in how to avoid this from happening is there adjustments to camber, toe and caster that can be done? Is urethane bushing that can help to keep the tire more precise to the ground? That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Sorry if I wasn’t clear enough I thought I explained what I needed.

 

[Evox787]

I was getting similar wear and had an alignment done. The as measured alignment was way out with a bunch of toe out front and rear. Presumably this was how the car shipped. I’m keeping an eye on it with the in spec alignment.

II had an alignment done after my steering rack was replaced at an independent shop. I don’t know why this happened so abruptly. During the last oil change, the tires weren’t like this at all. The area of Texas where I live doesn’t have bad roads—at least compared to the ones where I came from. These roads are amazing.

I’m asking because my other favorite car, the ISF, has a similar problem with its tires. It has upgraded bushings and other components to minimize the issue, and I was wondering if that’s something I should consider here as well.

 

[zymmer4]

I know most of you here are probably trying to get the best possible performance out of our cars, but there are definitely some people who don’t really focus on that at all . I’m trying to figure out how I can improve my tire wear without sacrificing the driving feel of the car.

Yesterday, I posted pictures of my tires, and I’m planning to get them replaced today—I’ll share the update here as well. Someone pointed out that my alignment is probably out of spec. How can I be proactive in the future to avoid this?

I daily my Type R about 600 miles a week, sometimes a little more. Are there any bushings or suspension upgrades that could help make things more stable? Also, what kind of alignment numbers should I aim for? Another member here, @yeaitsahonda, posted the OEM specs (which I saved—super helpful info, by the way!).

How much can I tweak those numbers without compromising ride quality? I’m sure many of you have more experience with this since you’re more connected with the car and have way more aggressive seat time than I do .

ercy !! You do seem to have alignment errors or worn or broken parts in the steering..My PS4 tires went 10500 miles before they wore out completely, here in central WV, where the roads aare paved goatpaths..Find a good alignment shop that will load your car and do a fine job on it..Please let us know who it went.

I know most of you here are probably trying to get the best possible performance out of our cars, but there are definitely some people who don’t really focus on that at all . I’m trying to figure out how I can improve my tire wear without sacrificing the driving feel of the car.

Yesterday, I posted pictures of my tires, and I’m planning to get them replaced today—I’ll share the update here as well. Someone pointed out that my alignment is probably out of spec. How can I be proactive in the future to avoid this?

I daily my Type R about 600 miles a week, sometimes a little more. Are there any bushings or suspension upgrades that could help make things more stable? Also, what kind of alignment numbers should I aim for? Another member here, @yeaitsahonda, posted the OEM specs (which I saved—super helpful info, by the way!).

How much can I tweak those numbers without compromising ride quality? I’m sure many of you have more experience with this since you’re more connected with the car and have way more aggressive seat time than I do .

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

My OEM Michelin PS 4S tires are still available if you are gonna stick with OEM.

Depends on how soon you need em, since I'm out of town until Tuesday.

Just sayin'.

 

[HondaHoon]

Sorry for not being able to answer everything clearly. The alignment was done in September 2025, and I believe it meets factory specifications. I did not request any special adjustments. The car currently has 36,000 miles, and I drive an average of 600 miles per week, mostly highway miles. I keep the tire pressure at 35 psi in the front and 33 psi in the rear.

The image showing the most wear is of the driver’s front tire, followed by the passenger front and then the rears. I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles. The tread depth measurement from the outside to the inside is 6/32 to 5/32. For rotation, I move the rear tires to the front in a cross pattern, and the front tires go straight to the back in their original positions. Hope this could bring more information again I just try to get information in how to avoid this from happening is there adjustments to camber, toe and caster that can be done? Is urethane bushing that can help to keep the tire more precise to the ground? That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Sorry if I wasn’t clear enough I thought I explained what I needed.

Looks like you were doing everything correctly for preventative maintenance to me. When you had your steering rack replaced, I would wager that the alignment was not done incorrectly, or perhaps something was not torqued properly, and suddenly let go or shifted, causing excessive wear. However, that is unlikely because all tires, front and rear, are showing signs of excessive inner wear.

Of course, there is a multitude of adjustments that can be done to correct the issues you are experiencing, the vital piece of information that you need at this time for anyone to answer that correctly is exactly what your current alignment is. To my eyeballs, it appears you have something going on with camber. Are your camber pins pulled by chance?

In addition, I assume you are currently running a car that has a completely stock suspension. This, of course, as all the OEM bushings in place that were designed for road compliance and reduction of NVH first and foremost. Could one or more of these bushings be bad, possibly, but again unlikely because the wear is relatively uniform to all tires on all corners of the car. But to answer the question directly, yes, there is an endless array of different levels of bushings and suspension components that allow for endless adjustment for your specific setup. However, this is typically for those that are pushing their modified cars 10/10's on track, or at least have the car dramtically lowered.

 

[Evox787]

Looks like you were doing everything correctly for preventative maintenance to me. When you had your steering rack replaced, I would wager that the alignment was not done incorrectly, or perhaps something was not torqued properly, and suddenly let go or shifted, causing excessive wear. However, that is unlikely because all tires, front and rear, are showing signs of excessive inner wear.

Of course, there is a multitude of adjustments that can be done to correct the issues you are experiencing, the vital piece of information that you need at this time for anyone to answer that correctly is exactly what your current alignment is. To my eyeballs, it appears you have something going on with camber. Are your camber pins pulled by chance?

In addition, I assume you are currently running a car that has a completely stock suspension. This, of course, as all the OEM bushings in place that were designed for road compliance and reduction of NVH first and foremost. Could one or more of these bushings be bad, possibly, but again unlikely because the wear is relatively uniform to all tires on all corners of the car. But to answer the question directly, yes, there is an endless array of different levels of bushings and suspension components that allow for endless adjustment for your specific setup. However, this is typically for those that are pushing their modified cars 10/10's on track, or at least have the car dramtically lowered.

The car is completely stock right now. I’m planning on lowering it, but not yet. I’m debating whether to go with H&R or Spoon. I contacted multiple companies to see if they had active coilovers on the horizon. Most of them told me no; the only one that said “probably” was Nitron. So, I don’t know what I’ll do in that regard because I don’t want to lose the active suspension. I also know that lowering springs can put stress on the shocks.

I’ve considered buying the DSC module so I can customize the settings and avoid harming the shocks, but the math doesn’t really add up—you’d end up spending more than you would on a good set of coilovers while still losing the active dampers. I also don’t have the pins on the top hat, and I don’t think that’s a good idea for my use .

I was thinking about ordering Whiteline parts W63647, W63648, W63646, and W63619. These are the urethane bushings and inserts to try to improve longevity, but I’m not sure if that’s a good idea for this chassis. Am I heading in the right direction?

I also ordered some wheels: 19x9.5 +50. I didn’t want to go too far on the offset, and I didn’t like the fitment of the +45 wheels—nothing against the people who run that setup.

 

[Evox787]

My OEM Michelin PS 4S tires are still available if you are gonna stick with OEM.

Depends on how soon you need em, since I'm out of town until Tuesday.

Just sayin'.

Sorry, I didn’t see your response. I’ll be going with Continental now because of the all-season tires. I don’t want to leave my wife hanging when it’s really cold—the three days it gets cold here in Texas, you know . It’s also kind of funny because I have a third car that’s 20 years old. It doesn’t fail or anything, but my mind works weird . I’m planning on getting an ISF next year if I pay off the FL5 because the R33 GTR’s are out of my range.

 

[HondaHoon]

The car is completely stock right now. I’m planning on lowering it, but not yet. I’m debating whether to go with H&R or Spoon. I contacted multiple companies to see if they had active coilovers on the horizon. Most of them told me no; the only one that said “probably” was Nitron. So, I don’t know what I’ll do in that regard because I don’t want to lose the active suspension. I also know that lowering springs can put stress on the shocks.

I’ve considered buying the DSC module so I can customize the settings and avoid harming the shocks, but the math doesn’t really add up—you’d end up spending more than you would on a good set of coilovers while still losing the active dampers. I also don’t have the pins on the top hat, and I don’t think that’s a good idea for my use .

I was thinking about ordering Whiteline parts W63647, W63648, W63646, and W63619. These are the urethane bushings and inserts to try to improve longevity, but I’m not sure if that’s a good idea for this chassis. Am I heading in the right direction?

I also ordered some wheels: 19x9.5 +50. I didn’t want to go too far on the offset, and I didn’t like the fitment of the +45 wheels—nothing against the people who run that setup.

Ok, let me see if I can help you here.

Regarding the DSC controller. I have this, and from my time with it, the results have been awesome. Others have alsp advised that it is great as well for track and road use. I have attached a photo that was sent to me by the company to visually understand what it gives you out of the box. You can also customize the settings if you know what you are doing. It is on sale right now for $995.00. I am not sure what specific brand of coilover you are going for, but I doubt they are $1000.00, and if they are, they are not going to do you any favors. If you have priced Nitron, Ohlins, RS-R, or AST, you already know the price point of coilvers for our car. As far as I know, RS-R is the only company that makes a bolt-on active suspension for our car.

I am very concerned as to why your camber pins have been removed from the upper strut tower. Did you buy the car new or used? Did you personally remove them? Why were they removed? I have included an article about what I am referring to, explaining why/why not to remove them.

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/fl5-front-camber-strut-pin-removal.51857/

I would not touch anything at this point regarding the bushings; you would be adding variables to the issue without isolating the root cause of the problem. It would be a gamble.

Wheels are not a concern for your issue.

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

The car is completely stock right now. I’m planning on lowering it, but not yet.

...

I also ordered some wheels: 19x9.5 +50. I didn’t want to go too far on the offset, and I didn’t like the fitment of the +45 wheels—nothing against the people who run that setup.

Are you planning on running OEM size 265/30 ZR19 tires?
If so (shameless self-pllug incoming), Please buy my tires! I'll deliver em to you.
I don't need the money as much as my dining room needs the space, ha ha!

However, if you're not sticking with OEM sizing, AND you don't slam the car TOO much, you can probably go up to a 275/35 ZR19 tire for daily ride comfort and (maybe? I have no evidence of this...) tire longevety. Also, a higher sidewall may help protect your wheels a little bit from bumps and potholes.

 

[Sporky McGeuschky]

Sorry, I didn’t see your response. I’ll be going with Continental now because of the all-season tires. I don’t want to leave my wife hanging when it’s really cold—the three days it gets cold here in Texas, you know . It’s also kind of funny because I have a third car that’s 20 years old. It doesn’t fail or anything, but my mind works weird . I’m planning on getting an ISF next year if I pay off the FL5 because the R33 GTR’s are out of my range.

Ha! Whoops!

I wrote another post while you were responding. Another day in the life of Live Internet, 24/7 ... ammiright?

Cheers.

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