Fuel average after 5W30 oil

[chaudhrysarmad]

Have you considered taking your foot off the throttle? I only get 12 mpg if I am absolutely hammering it and I've run 5w-30 since the first oil change.

I’m very lite footed smooth operator. Never drove above speed limit. Never got any ticket or speeding ticket in my 30 years of driving, specially when you live in New York City. 99% of time me and my mom who is 80+ years old travel together. So I have to be very cautious due to her age. Only once I did hit red line, my max rev is 3k.

Sponsored

 

[chaudhrysarmad]

Thanks everybody for taking your precious time to work on issue. I’ll take it to Dealership near me Bay Ridge Honda on Monday and let’s see what words they have for me. Give you update as soon as possible.

 

[WOPSiWOT]

Thanks everybody for taking your precious time to work on issue. I’ll take it to Dealership near me Bay Ridge Honda on Monday and let’s see what words they have for me. Give you update as soon as possible.

I wouldn't take it to the dealer and tell them you put 5w-30 and ask them about fuel economy. At best they are going to tell you it is because of the oil and at worst they might flag you. Bottom line, you aren't going to get any answers. Run another tank of fuel. Something was wonky with your recording or the car's or the way you were driving the car (lots of idling).

 

[Chilly613]

Did you take a bunch of short trips to get the 12.5mpg? If so that would explain it, shorter trips will kill your fuel economy. Dealer probably won't help you much with that matter, and will just blame that you didn't use the "recommended" 0W-20.

 

[cryptolime]

Not sure if you meant low loads or low RPMs, but there is oil that controls low speed preignition, if you used a 5-30 that wasnt right for a little turbo motor then you can definitely get some preignition with boost at low RPMs (under 3k or so).

Oil viscosity alone does not make an oil better at controlling LSPI; rather, the specific chemical additive package—specifically lower calcium and higher magnesium detergents meeting the API SP or ILSAC GF-6/GF-7 standards—is what prevents low-speed pre-ignition. [1, 2, 3, 4]

Key Factors in LSPI Control

• • Additive Chemistry: `“Calcium (detergent) increases LSPI events dramatically. Magnesium (detergent) decreases LSPI events dramatically.”, as noted on BobIsTheOilGuy. Modern formulations reduce calcium and substitute alternative detergents.
  • Industry Standards: Always select oils carrying the API SP specification or ILSAC GF-6/GF-7 ratings, which explicitly require passing rigorous LSPI engine tests (such as Sequence IX).
  • Viscosity Role: While some research indicates thinner or lighter oils can slightly influence how much oil film passes by piston rings into the combustion chamber under specific conditions, changing the viscosity grade (e.g., swapping a 5W-30 for a 0W-20) is secondary to using an oil with the correct anti-LSPI chemical formulation specified by your vehicle manufacturer.

I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which definitely meets minimum standards. i don't even know where you could buy an oil that doesn't meet modern standards. Just sharing my experience. Not looking to get into another oil debate.

 

[chaudhrysarmad]

I wouldn't take it to the dealer and tell them you put 5w-30 and ask them about fuel economy. At best they are going to tell you it is because of the oil and at worst they might flag you. Bottom line, you aren't going to get any answers. Run another tank of fuel. Something was wonky with your recording or the car's or the way you were driving the car (lots of idling).

You’re right, i think have to run another fuel tank. I always use 93 but at this time I’ll try 91.

 

[chaudhrysarmad]

Did you take a bunch of short trips to get the 12.5mpg? If so that would explain it, shorter trips will kill your fuel economy. Dealer probably won't help you much with that matter, and will just blame that you didn't use the "recommended" 0W-20.

I have lot of short trips, sit in traffic for longer period of time due to heavy congestion. But this is my time I saw 12 mpg number after owning FK8 for 4 years and FL5 for 3 years. Driving habits are same, but now I thing i have to switch 93 to 91 and see what happen? And thanks for reply

 

[Higgs Boson]

I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which definitely meets minimum standards. i don't even know where you could buy an oil that doesn't meet modern standards. Just sharing my experience. Not looking to get into another oil debate.

I use Pennzoil Euro Spec Platinum 5/40 in almost all my cars (I use C40 GT Red Label in my Spyder RS because I kinda have to), I am not an oil debater, lol. Even using 5/40 in the Civic I get no knock and can still knock out 30 MPG if I don't lay into it.

 

[Spart]

i don't even know where you could buy an oil that doesn't meet modern standards.

One place to start would be your local Amsoil peddler.

 

[cryptolime]

One place to start would be your local Amsoil peddler.

lol. even the oil they sell at Dollar General has API certs. and, yea, i know, many boutique oils aren't certified but they should still protect against LSPI.

 

[Ktrw]

I have lot of short trips, sit in traffic for longer period of time due to heavy congestion. But this is my time I saw 12 mpg number after owning FK8 for 4 years and FL5 for 3 years. Driving habits are same, but now I thing i have to switch 93 to 91 and see what happen? And thanks for reply

I wouldn't run 91 octane instead of 93; that isn't going to drastically change your fuel economy, to be honest. Just run another tank of what you typically run, assuming you're not buying hot dog water fuel. I wonder if you got some higher ethanol fuel somehow? That may explain some weird operating conditions and low fuel economy.

 

[CG13]

Your “solutions” (91 or 93 octane, and a dealer visit) are ridiculous if you haven’t simply checked your actual gallons used and miles driven. Fill up. Drive 100 miles. Fill up again. See gallons required to fill up. Divide. Adjust driving as needed. Problem solved.

Also “I never rev above 3k.”

It’s difficult to believe this is a real thread at this point.

 

[zymmer4]

I’m very lite footed smooth operator. Never drove above speed limit. Never got any ticket or speeding ticket in my 30 years of driving, specially when you live in New York City. 99% of time me and my mom who is 80+ years old travel together. So I have to be very cautious due to her age. Only once I did hit red line, my max rev is 3k.

3000 rpm redline? Sir, I would say that you are "lugging" your engine badly..Have you looked at your oil pressure at say 1500rpm, where you sometimes shift up? This engine is not a tractor rngine..It needs some rpm to get everything running in harmony..You may want to run a compression check on that engine..It is direct injection only..It is possible that there are carbon buildups on the underside of the valves, causing things to not work as they should..Even in a place that dosen't allow 80 MPH driving, it is still possible to maintain a 3000 rpm average. In my driving area, I find that to keep from lugging the engine below 3000 rpm, I must use a lower gear than I would in a car with a different engine. I consider 3000 rpm my minimum rpm..I like my engine to have oil pressure all the time. My MPG averages 27.5 in spirited driving.

 

[chaudhrysarmad]

3000 rpm redline? Sir, I would say that you are "lugging" your engine badly..Have you looked at your oil pressure at say 1500rpm, where you sometimes shift up? This engine is not a tractor rngine..It needs some rpm to get everything running in harmony..You may want to run a compression check on that engine..It is direct injection only..It is possible that there are carbon buildups on the underside of the valves, causing things to not work as they should..Even in a place that dosen't allow 80 MPH driving, it is still possible to maintain a 3000 rpm average. In my driving area, I find that to keep from lugging the engine below 3000 rpm, I must use a lower gear than I would in a car with a different engine. I consider 3000 rpm my minimum rpm..I like my engine to have oil pressure all the time. My MPG averages 27.5 in spirited driving.

I always shift in higher gear at 3k rpm. And mostly I stay at 2700-3000rpm at cruising speed. Your point is solid, that I have to run compression test. Another great information added to my knowledge. Thanks

 

[ABPDE5]

I always shift in higher gear at 3k rpm. And mostly I stay at 2700-3000rpm at cruising speed. Your point is solid, that I have to run compression test. Another great information added to my knowledge. Thanks

The turbo has barely started to make boost at 2700 rpm. The power band for this engine starts at 3k rpm, and it was designed to operate primarily above that threshold when making power. It's okay to sit around 3k when you are maintaining a constant speed, like on the freeway or something, but you should be operating above 3k when you are accelerating, etc. Putting a load on the motor below that point subjects it to unnecessary stress (it's called "lugging" the engine). Additionally, DI motors like this need to get hot to operate efficiently and prevent excess carbon build up. I respect that you drive responsibly and adhere to speed limits, etc., but from what you're describing, the way you're managing gears, etc. is not healthy for your engine.

Sponsored