Ouch!! I missed that one. DAMN!! I purposely tested the brakes during that period. sigh.They also mention try to and avoid panic stops in the first 200 miles.
I'm almost certain this is to allow the brakes to properly bed and make sure you get the most life/performance out of them.Ouch!! I missed that one. DAMN!! I purposely tested the brakes during that period. sigh.
So, what did they say was the danger (or do you happen to know anyway)?
they say that to avoid running the risk of warping your rotorsOuch!! I missed that one. DAMN!! I purposely tested the brakes during that period. sigh.
So, what did they say was the danger (or do you happen to know anyway)?
It's more a difference in parts being bedded in and the types of brake compounds being used. As the aftermarket is entirely opposite bedding in process. OEM is more geared toward new cars where ALL the parts within the braking system is bedding together. Everything from the MC down to the caliper seals so the OEM doesn't want any kind of thermal shock to the system just in case any area is dry or a bubble or something is in the system, bedding in time allows everything to migrate to the bleed port or fluids/grease to move through multiple heating cycles. Aftermarket break in usually only involves pads/rotors and WANTS that high heat application as those components operate better with heat. They ask for 6x 60-5mph stops then cruise on the freeway for 20 min to cool then park the car w/o using the parking brake. As they want that high temp pad transfer onto the rotor to create the highest friction surface.The reason they say take it easy on the brakes is that they need time to bed in. New brake discs and brake pads have slight variations on their surfaces so if you jam on your brakes too much they can over heat high spots, your highly unlikely to over heat parts of the mating surfaces with a few hard pushes so you wouldn't have caused any damage.
Modern cars generally don't need brake in like the oldern days as tolerances are so much better but always warm up before you rev too hard, vary your revs, vary gears, don't labour it (which is quite hard to do in this vehicle cause of the awesome torque, don't over rev ie stay below 4grand most of the time.
In nz the dealer said they don't need running in but I'm still taking it easy for the first 1000 km or 600 miles
Yah, i've broken in other cars and multiple motorcycles so i'm aware of the break-in for the motor. but, i wasn't aware that the brakes also needed a little more gentle touch at first. Thanks to everyone here for all the detailed explanations!The reason they say take it easy on the brakes is that they need time to bed in. New brake discs and brake pads have slight variations on their surfaces so if you jam on your brakes too much they can over heat high spots, your highly unlikely to over heat parts of the mating surfaces with a few hard pushes so you wouldn't have caused any damage.
Modern cars generally don't need brake in like the oldern days as tolerances are so much better but always warm up before you rev too hard, vary your revs, vary gears, don't labour it (which is quite hard to do in this vehicle cause of the awesome torque, don't over rev ie stay below 4grand most of the time.
In nz the dealer said they don't need running in but I'm still taking it easy for the first 1000 km or 600 miles
Well the mileage until "broken-in" will tend to vary based on how it is done. I actually know for a fact that it will respond better to steady-state driving longer drives will help versus many hot and cold cycles and stop and go. I think you can go until 1500 miles and then change the oil. The 600 miles may handle minimum requirements but I would not bounce off limiter until 2000 miles. CheersJust took delivery of my Cw Ctr & im wondering how many miles I’d have to baby this machine before I bounce off redline?