*The FL5 Track Junkie Thread*

svvitch

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There was an online service manual posted at some point let me find the link
 
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track.n.trail

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Folks running CSG pads: are you swapping the more aggressive C1X pads out for the CP compound for street driving? If not, how is the noise, stopping performance, and rotor/pad life using C1X for daily driving?
 


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Folks running CSG pads: are you swapping the more aggressive C1X pads out for the CP compound for street driving? If not, how is the noise, stopping performance, and rotor/pad life using C1X for daily driving?
I have had mine on for about 2 weeks and its been fine. Haven't used the CPs at all but compared to the Paragon R3s there is a significant difference in the initial bite when stopping.

I haven't swapped out my pads
 

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What's the rationale for running a narrower tire?
I like the tighter sidewall, it provides a sharper turn-in.

I’ll be switching to a 265 35 R18 once I get my new 18x10 wheels that I ordered.
 

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Curious if anyone can share their camber settings for a modded car? When I took my car stock, it was quite enjoyable and had a pretty neutral balance that made it rotate well.

But after doing Swift springs, rv6 rear sway bar (middle setting), evs tuning front offset balljoints (middle setting), strut pins pulled, and 18x10 with endurance 200tw's - the car balance is god awful now and SOOOO understeery... I could have adjusted the rear bar to the stiffer setting but I was lazy and just didn't think any change I could do at the track would work enough. I was honestly expecting the car to be much looser considering the added front camber and stiff rear bar, but the opposite happened... Maybe due to increased rear camber from loweing?

So the front camber is at around -2.7 and the rear is at natural -2.2 after lowering. I was considering adding more front neg and/or taking rear camber out but I also need to decide whether to balance going for an aggressive track alignment on a mostly street driven car... It's my first McPherson strut car, so I'm just not experienced with how mich camber these things need in the front to promote even tire usage and more grip...
11th Gen Honda Civic *The FL5 Track Junkie Thread* Red - Session 2 (Phil Hill) - CPRP7203_Mar2925_846AM_CaliPhoto
 


svvitch

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From what I remember reading the middle setting on the RV6 isn't much stiffer vs OEM bar. I think you need to go middle/outside or outside outside to really up the rate of the rear bar over OEM. Let me find the doc.
 

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Yeah I remember seeing the numbers when I was installing it, I think I went with the middle setting because I was worried it would be too loose. I shouldn't have been lazy and tried adjusting it while I was at the track so I'd know how much it helps lol
 

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Curious if anyone can share their camber settings for a modded car? When I took my car stock, it was quite enjoyable and had a pretty neutral balance that made it rotate well.

But after doing Swift springs, rv6 rear sway bar (middle setting), evs tuning front offset balljoints (middle setting), strut pins pulled, and 18x10 with endurance 200tw's - the car balance is god awful now and SOOOO understeery... I could have adjusted the rear bar to the stiffer setting but I was lazy and just didn't think any change I could do at the track would work enough. I was honestly expecting the car to be much looser considering the added front camber and stiff rear bar, but the opposite happened... Maybe due to increased rear camber from loweing?

So the front camber is at around -2.7 and the rear is at natural -2.2 after lowering. I was considering adding more front neg and/or taking rear camber out but I also need to decide whether to balance going for an aggressive track alignment on a mostly street driven car... It's my first McPherson strut car, so I'm just not experienced with how mich camber these things need in the front to promote even tire usage and more grip...
Red - Session 2 (Phil Hill) - CPRP7203_Mar2925_846AM_CaliPhoto.jpg
surprised that's all the camber you got in the middle setting with springs and ball joint.

I have it on max setting, and it was over -4, and dialed it down to -3.6 to -3.7 since it's my daily.
I was hoping middle setting would be around -3.2

There definitely is a point where too much isn't good, not sure what that is on this car.

and you were on +R, fully off, or pedal dance in some other mode?
 

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Curious if anyone can share their camber settings for a modded car? When I took my car stock, it was quite enjoyable and had a pretty neutral balance that made it rotate well.

But after doing Swift springs, rv6 rear sway bar (middle setting), evs tuning front offset balljoints (middle setting), strut pins pulled, and 18x10 with endurance 200tw's - the car balance is god awful now and SOOOO understeery... I could have adjusted the rear bar to the stiffer setting but I was lazy and just didn't think any change I could do at the track would work enough. I was honestly expecting the car to be much looser considering the added front camber and stiff rear bar, but the opposite happened... Maybe due to increased rear camber from loweing?

So the front camber is at around -2.7 and the rear is at natural -2.2 after lowering. I was considering adding more front neg and/or taking rear camber out but I also need to decide whether to balance going for an aggressive track alignment on a mostly street driven car... It's my first McPherson strut car, so I'm just not experienced with how mich camber these things need in the front to promote even tire usage and more grip...
Red - Session 2 (Phil Hill) - CPRP7203_Mar2925_846AM_CaliPhoto.jpg
I would also recommend to try out the stiffest setting on the rear bar.

Your camber seems to be good for Daily/Track use.

What are you toe settings and what tire pressures were you running front and back when the tires were hot?
 

Kirbizle

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I would also recommend to try out the stiffest setting on the rear bar.

Your camber seems to be good for Daily/Track use.

What are you toe settings and what tire pressures were you running front and back when the tires were hot?
Tire pressures were around ~37psi hot, starting at ~29psi cold. Toe, according tomy alignment printout is 0.03° total toe front and 0.15° rear

This is why I think I need more front neg camber; it destroyed the outside edge by the sidewall and the understeer just got worse after the first session.
11th Gen Honda Civic *The FL5 Track Junkie Thread* 1000075398


11th Gen Honda Civic *The FL5 Track Junkie Thread* 1000075416
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