The Tuned 11th gen Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[TheReal_TimShady]

Yes, its a lot better over stock and definitely worth it. I had a '16 Civic and a '23 Sport Touring 6MT both with the non-Si tune and it was great, its how it should've been from factory.

The tune will also takes advantage of any mods you have since you're not getting the full performance from them.

I appreciate the feedback. Looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on a Ktuner after all.

Sponsored

 

[Chilly613]

I appreciate the feedback. Looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on a Ktuner after all.

Nice thing with Phearable is if you buy the KTuner through him, you get a free tune.

 

[SuperDave]

Right, I've read their info. I'm just wondering if that specific tune is really worth it over stock. I've seen folks mention the 1.5R and they love it. I'm hoping the 1.5 is just as good, given the CVT limitations.

I had a 2024 civic EX hatch CVT with 1.5 Phearable tune. Now have a 25 Si with Phearable tune.

Both cars really wake up with the tune. But the CVT was much more drastic. Even on Map 2 the car pulls so hard compared to stock. Not even remotely comparable. My sister still owns the car and it's been tuned well over 10k miles.

Only issue I had was in the summer or warm days (Socal) the kcon values would increase. When that happened I would add 1 Gal of E85 to a full tank. Completely fixed the kcon rising. Just have to change the engine oil more often.

 

[BoostBlooFL1]

Our 11th gen civic sport touring made 314whp and 290tq on E30

Huge list of mods on our car, really everything was done and installed back in early 2022 to get info for the 11th gen community

Our Axion fuel system
Axion 2n1 downpipe
Axion 2n1 race inlet
Ktuner
PRL Flex fuel
PRL frontpipe
Hasport full mounts
PTP turbo blanket
RV6 turbo
Si intake cam
PPG built trans with 2020 final drive and Si LSD
RV6 type R retro flywheel and stage 0 clutch

7000 miles on this setup with zero issues just tire spin and then the K20c4 swap happened

Dope build bro, I got a question about the tuning. For the life of me I haven't seen anything about two-step on these non si 1.5T's. Is that something you know anything about? I've reached out to TSP and Phearable but have really had no luck.

 

[axion_industries]

Dope build bro, I got a question about the tuning. For the life of me I haven't seen anything about two-step on these non si 1.5T's. Is that something you know anything about? I've reached out to TSP and Phearable but have really had no luck.

No need to do those tunes, we are all about doing the bolt ons and then get a full custom tune instead of these off the shelf copy paste tunes, you will make more power that way

 

[BoostBlooFL1]

I was told that our ECUs do not support launch control / two step like previous gens or SI / Integras, it’s possible with a custom tune?
If so… point me in the right direction my wallet would like to speak with them.

 

[axion_industries]

I was told that our ECUs do not support launch control / two step like previous gens or SI / Integras, it’s possible with a custom tune?
If so… point me in the right direction my wallet would like to speak with them.

Its not a feature yet

 

[cwtechshiz]

Update: rv6 fk8 clutch kit installed and broken in! Back to full time map 3 and enjoying my car again. Almost at 36000 miles now with no other issues. I did the braided clutch cable upgrade and removed the in line clutch dampener while I was at it, still factory feeling to me. Also installed a fl5 rear motor mount with a insert. Combination of the dampener delete and stiffening the rmm makes taking off smoothly effortless compared to before.

My oem clutch eventually slipped more and more until it wouldn't hold power really at all. Replaced clutch and flywheel myself, was expecting there to be no material left or a bunch of heat marks but it looked completely normal. Thought maybe pressure plate wasn't enough then I noticed I could move the two peice flywheel by hand back and forth. The oem clutch is not sprung in the middle like most street applications, The spring inside the flywheel is what actually takes the drivetrain shock and I can say with certainty I wore mine out. If anyone is considering a clutch job I recommend a traditional flywheel upgrade and get rid of that dual-mass design. I suspect the Si may have a different setup to make rev match work but I'm not sure..

Hello me again with an update. Fast-forward to about 45,000 the car starts to misfire under load but very randomly, giving it plugs(first change) seemed to fix it for awhile but it came back worse. I pulled plugs to find a cracked one and a scratched cylinder wall. Thought maybe I got bad or fake plugs from advaced auto but I had already pulled my downpipe off and flashed the factory tune planning to take it to the dealer to diag and do my recalls. New plugs(#3)from napa seemed to fix things again prior to taking it in and the dealer found nothing wrong. I re-tuned with the ktuner dual 21/stock almost right away after mostly because the auto stop bs annoys me. Fouled plugs again, changed them(#4) and reflashed stock to baby it. Checked compression and started taking things apart, everything is so clean no signs of anything but maybe some oily residue in the charge pipe. Pay dealer to diag again, they changed the plugs(#5) and said everything looks great lol. I argued I that I shouldn't have to change the plugs every oil change but after testing over and over they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Finally after watching everything super closely and pulling plugs constantly I got confirmation using a borescope that cylinder 2 is leaking likely causing my intermittent misfire and fouling the plugs. I should have installed the headstuds I bought a long time ago... Oops. Currently at 62,000 mi.


I've been searching the forums but its tough to find info on suggestions before I dig in. Prob guna avoid the oem gasket in favor of a cometic or mls head gasket. There are different thickness options and alot of them say they are for the 10th gen. Any advice or recommendations welcome.

 

[pwp25si]

How badly was the cylinder scratched? I actually flashed my car back to stock the other day. Im enjoying the car stock. Its just not worth the anxiety.

Hello me again with an update. Fast-forward to about 45,000 the car starts to misfire under load but very randomly, giving it plugs(first change) seemed to fix it for awhile but it came back worse. I pulled plugs to find a cracked one and a scratched cylinder wall. Thought maybe I got bad or fake plugs from advaced auto but I had already pulled my downpipe off and flashed the factory tune planning to take it to the dealer to diag and do my recalls. New plugs(#3)from napa seemed to fix things again prior to taking it in and the dealer found nothing wrong. I re-tuned with the ktuner dual 21/stock almost right away after mostly because the auto stop bs annoys me. Fouled plugs again, changed them(#4) and reflashed stock to baby it. Checked compression and started taking things apart, everything is so clean no signs of anything but maybe some oily residue in the charge pipe. Pay dealer to diag again, they changed the plugs(#5) and said everything looks great lol. I argued I that I shouldn't have to change the plugs every oil change but after testing over and over they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Finally after watching everything super closely and pulling plugs constantly I got confirmation using a borescope that cylinder 2 is leaking and causing my intermittent misfire and fouling the plugs. I should have installed the headstuds I bought a long time ago... Oops. Currently at 62,000 mi.


I've been searching the forums but its tough to find info on suggestions before I dig in. Prob guna avoid the oem gasket in favor of a cometic or mls head gasket. There are different thickness options and alot of them say they are for the 10th gen. Any advice or recommendations welcome.

 

[cwtechshiz]

How badly was the cylinder scratched? I actually flashed my car back to stock the other day. Im enjoying the car stock. Its just not worth the anxiety.

My intent is just to warn of the clutch and headstuds if you guna give it the beans. Your motor is slightly diff than mine and I'm a idiot lol. I went from factory 16psi to 24psi and like to accelerate. Sorry to cause anxiety. Will know how bad that scratch is soon enough, hard to tell on the scope but I did not lose compression when i checked after it had happened... fingers crossed.

ALSO to follow up on the head gasket choice... can anyone please confirm the cometic or inlinepro options work on the 11th gen? Thier direct websites says for 10th gen but reseller sites say 22+ so maybe? Messaged a few, one of the them told me the oem is the only option available because doesnt have the oil for vtec while another seller told me it is the same for both gens. Waiting for the manufacters to respond or to maybe find someone that has actually installed on a 11th gen l15b7 before I order. I think there is lot of mixed info because the 10th gen si also had a l15b7? idk im still researching and might just grab oem from a local dealer if anything.

 

[Dan_E26]

ALSO to follow up on the head gasket choice... can anyone please confirm the cometic or inlinepro options work on the 11th gen?

Don't take my word for it 100% but my understanding was that the head gasket leaking isn't due to the gasket itself, but rather the head bolts stretching and allowing the head to lift, breaking the gasket's seal. I think an OEM gasket is fine provided you use a stronger headstud with greater clamping force. I have ARP studs on mine and it's been good so far with the factory gasket

 

[pwp25si]

I already flashed back to factory before I saw your post. I've been running on map1 most of the time on the phearable tune anyway. For daily driving, i dont even take advantage of full boost so it really makes no difference going back to factory tune. Good luck with your motor.

My intent is just to warn of the clutch and headstuds if you guna give it the beans. Your motor is slightly diff than mine and I'm a idiot lol. I went from factory 16psi to 24psi and like to accelerate. Sorry to cause anxiety. Will know how bad that scratch is soon enough, hard to tell on the scope but I did not lose compression when i checked after it had happened... fingers crossed.

 

[cwtechshiz]

Motor going back together now. Kinda sad about some damage but i think its going to be fine. Can't get my .005 feeler under my straight edge anywhere and is going back together as is. short videos if yall curious.

Also, The guys at inlinepro got back to me about the gasket and now that I have it in my hand, I can confirm that it is going to work out fine.

 

[Dan_E26]

Feel free to ignore my delusions, but I wanted to put this out there to see if anyone has experienced something similar. I've had the RV6 FK8 retrofit kit on my car for about 1900 miles now.......

.....occasionally, it feels like the clutch feels heavier with a slightly higher bite point after getting off the highway.

I know this isnt directly tuning related, but I though this would be good to share since I don't know of any other 11th-gen folks who have had this problem yet.

So it turns out the shop who did my RV6 clutch kinda bungled my clutch master cylinder somehow. Not only was it adjusted so aggressively that it completely removed all free play from the pedal, it was leaking fluid into my interior! Additionally, I think there was a ton of air in the lines; the thermal expansion of which would probably explain the heavy pedal feeling combined with whatever hell my poor throwout bearing went through in those several hundred miles.

Fast forward a few days and I ordered a new OEM CMC. Because the clutch shares a reservoir with the brakes, I decided it was a convenient time to change my pads and flush the entire system. Unfortunately, you can't really bench bleed these CMCs because they share the reservoir with the brakes and the hardline out to the CSC uses a special quick-connect fitting, not a standard hose. Without any better options, I just went for it and installed the CMC dry, and did my best to bleed the absolute snot out of it. (Shoutout to the Mrs. for hand-actuating the pedal while I cracked the bleeder valve)

If any of you ever have to replace clutch hydraulics, I cannot recommend a pressure bleeder enough. All you have to do is hook it up to the brake reservoir, pump it up to 12-15PSI, crack the bleeder valve and make sure you have enough brake fluid to flush through those lines! The first few bleeds pushed some HUGE bubbles out, then I had my fiancee press the pedal a bunch to make sure I was getting all the air. After a few more bleeds, I stopped seeing any bubbles going down the drain line, so I called it good and tightened everything down. The clutch now feels like it should! It no longer gets arbitrarily heavier after a long drive. I'll give everything a quick adjustment tomorrow and then fingers crossed that I don't need to touch this godforsaken clutch for a good, long while.

 

[danielbl]

'23 Si on Hondata 240 CARB. Stock otherwise. +509 tuned miles. Total tuned miles of 3,539. I drove the car in Normal for a couple weeks. It definitely felt more sluggish than when in Sport, but I think it's actually how it felt when it was stock. Glad I tuned!

'23 Si on Hondata 240 CARB. Stock otherwise. +259 tuned miles. Total tuned miles of 3,798. Still chugging along. . . .

Sponsored