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The Tuned 11th gen Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

slo_Honda_Mike

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Hi all - I have a 2026 and plan to add the following parts (currently on order or waiting in my garage):

KTUNER V2 with TSP Stage 1
PRL high volume cold air
PRL Rear Motor Mount
PRL intercooler and charge pipe
PRL turbo inlet pipe (titanium)
MAP street exhaust

can anyone advise if this is a solid plan or if I should skip anything? Goal is to wake up the car and have a fun but reliable daily driver. I know i won’t be beating Type Rs but I want the car to have a little more power. Worried about damage to engine or clutch.

any advice is appreciated, thanks.
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Dan_E26

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Worried about damage to engine or clutch.
any advice is appreciated, thanks.
ARP head studs are a must for preventing head lift and the dreaded head gasket issue. After that, and after you've tuned it drive it gently for a while and see if your stock clutch can take it. It likely won't, at which point you should put the RV6 Type R clutch in. You'll be massively over-specced for torque once you put that in, but you'll lose zero drivability. The Type R clutch is maybe 5-10% stiffer in pedal feel, rather than a comp clutch or something thats like doing a leg press each time. The L15 isn't making enough power to slip the RV6 unless you're doing some genuinely wacky shit to it
 

slo_Honda_Mike

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ARP head studs are a must for preventing head lift and the dreaded head gasket issue. After that, and after you've tuned it drive it gently for a while and see if your stock clutch can take it. It likely won't, at which point you should put the RV6 Type R clutch in. You'll be massively over-specced for torque once you put that in, but you'll lose zero drivability. The Type R clutch is maybe 5-10% stiffer in pedal feel, rather than a comp clutch or something thats like doing a leg press each time. The L15 isn't making enough power to slip the RV6 unless you're doing some genuinely wacky shit to it
Great advice, thank you! Would this fit the 26’? Same motor so I’m guessing yes but just confirming. https://www.maperformance.com/produ...6-20-honda-civic-1-5t-17-20-civic-si-hdax-hsk
 

Dan_E26

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slo_Honda_Mike

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Check the kit from TSP, it specifies that it's for the 22+ Civics. The 10th gen (like you showed) and 11th actually have slightly different 1.5T's. I'm sure the ones you listed are fine but the ones on the TSP site are specified for our generation!
appreciate it! sounds like the install is a pain but definitely worth it if it gives me peace of mind in the long run.
 


pwp25si

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Skip the intake, inlet pipe and exhaust. Get a downpipe instead. I'd go with phearable 1.5r over tsp.
Hi all - I have a 2026 and plan to add the following parts (currently on order or waiting in my garage):

KTUNER V2 with TSP Stage 1
PRL high volume cold air
PRL Rear Motor Mount
PRL intercooler and charge pipe
PRL turbo inlet pipe (titanium)
MAP street exhaust

can anyone advise if this is a solid plan or if I should skip anything? Goal is to wake up the car and have a fun but reliable daily driver. I know i won’t be beating Type Rs but I want the car to have a little more power. Worried about damage to engine or clutch.

any advice is appreciated, thanks.
 

Dan_E26

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Final bit of nonsense with my clutch solved

Recently replaced my CMC, bled and adjusted everything so I have a nice low-mid bite point with a slightly heavier than stock pedal feel (thank the Exedy stage 0 clutch for that). The clutch pedal had been creaking a bit when pressing the pedal or letting it go. Tried greasing the little fork that attaches the CMC to the pedal, but no luck, still squeaky! Turns out, greasing the little pivot ball on the CSC that presses on the clutch fork to actually actuate the clutch is a maintenance item. D'oh.

If you ever get any noises from your clutch, or less-than-smooth pedal travel, undo the 12mm bolts that attach the CSC to the transmission, wiggle the pivot ball free from the clutch fork (GENTLY!), wipe it clean and apply some grease to the pivot ball and the socket on the clutch fork in which the CSC presses. From there, you should be able to muscle everything back together. Torque spec on the 12MMs is a few ugga-duggas.
 

chopsuey34

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Hi all - I have a 2026 and plan to add the following parts (currently on order or waiting in my garage):

KTUNER V2 with TSP Stage 1
PRL high volume cold air
PRL Rear Motor Mount
PRL intercooler and charge pipe
PRL turbo inlet pipe (titanium)
MAP street exhaust

can anyone advise if this is a solid plan or if I should skip anything? Goal is to wake up the car and have a fun but reliable daily driver. I know i won’t be beating Type Rs but I want the car to have a little more power. Worried about damage to engine or clutch.

any advice is appreciated, thanks.

What's your budget? My mod priorities list for you:
PRL RRM
Tune + PRL Intercooler
HPT WOT Performance Cool Plate (you're in FL, you need cooling)

skip cold air intake unless you want whoosh noises
skip exhaust unless expensive noise maker whiz-pop-bang
skip charge pipes (not necessary for your use case)
skip turbo inlet pipe (not necessary for your use case)


https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/chopsuey’s-2025-civic-si-build-thread.61779/post-1010342
 

slo_Honda_Mike

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What's your budget? My mod priorities list for you:
PRL RRM
Tune + PRL Intercooler
HPT WOT Performance Cool Plate (you're in FL, you need cooling)

skip cold air intake unless you want whoosh noises
skip exhaust unless expensive noise maker whiz-pop-bang
skip charge pipes (not necessary for your use case)
skip turbo inlet pipe (not necessary for your use case)


https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/chopsuey’s-2025-civic-si-build-thread.61779/post-1010342
thanks! However I got the 11th gen si so I’m not sure if the cooling plate would fit this model. Don’t care for the exhaust right now tbh. Maybe down the line. Already have the intake, turbo inlet and intercooler w/ charge pipes so I might as well add them for peace of mind. The heat in south FL summer is brutal
 

Dan_E26

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Final bit of nonsense with my clutch solved
Hilariously, that didn't solve it. What DID was popping the dust boot off the clutch fork itself and discovering that the clutch fork pivot point inside the transmission was BONE DRY. Genuinely pretty pissed at the shop who did my clutch. How do you miss that?

Anyway, schmeared some Lucas Red and Tacky on that, then put everything back together and pumped the clutch a bunch. Completely removed the sticking and squeaking. Thus ends the clutch squeak saga!

As for tuning, I'm at about 7k miles on Phearable 1.5R. Such an excellent tune. It mostly lives on map 2, which is still enough to chirp 3rd gear with a quick shift. Cannot recommend Phearable enough to those who want to tune their 1.5T
 


danielbl

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'23 Si on Hondata 240 CARB. Stock otherwise. +259 tuned miles. Total tuned miles of 3,798. Still chugging along. . . .
'23 Civic Si
Tuned miles driven:
4,064 (+266 miles since the last update)
Current mods: N/A
Current tune: Hondata 240 CARB
New issues: N/A
Tune experience notes: Still very happy with it and the extra punch still makes me smile.
 
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I'll be updating the front page stats later today. I have this thread watched but it's not sending me notifications of new posts for some reason.
 

xxBodom

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Hi all - I have a 2026 and plan to add the following parts (currently on order or waiting in my garage):

KTUNER V2 with TSP Stage 1
PRL high volume cold air
PRL Rear Motor Mount
PRL intercooler and charge pipe
PRL turbo inlet pipe (titanium)
MAP street exhaust

can anyone advise if this is a solid plan or if I should skip anything? Goal is to wake up the car and have a fun but reliable daily driver. I know i won’t be beating Type Rs but I want the car to have a little more power. Worried about damage to engine or clutch.

any advice is appreciated, thanks.
OE inlet pipe is good enough even with bigger turbo.
The prl cold air intake that goes down is better for temps but more work
Intercooler is good even for a stock setup as OE gets heat soaked.
Exhaust is personal preference, I have a magna flow.
RMM is good.

IMO Go with a front pipe/downpipe over intake, inlet and cat back exhaust

I preferred phearables tune over TSP's but not a whole lot different both are just fine. I stayed in map 3 for around 8-10k miles? (Tuned at like 12k miles or so).
When I got my upgraded turbo, clutch and head studs (head studs are a must at some point when tuned) done, my clutch was barely hanging on, head gasket had some wear. YMMV.
 

danielbl

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'23 Civic Si
Tuned miles driven:
4,064 (+266 miles since the last update)
Current mods: N/A
Current tune: Hondata 240 CARB
New issues: N/A
Tune experience notes: Still very happy with it and the extra punch still makes me smile.
'23 Civic Si
Tuned miles driven:
4,388 (+324 miles since the last update, 32% of total miles)
Current mods: N/A
Current tune: Hondata 240 CARB
New issues: N/A
Tune experience notes: :headbang:
 
 







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