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AEM dryflow filter for PRL HVI intake
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jtlctr
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If I remember correctly, the max on how tall the filter can be is 4.5”. I tried fitting a 5” tall filter and it sticks out past the outside of the PRL box. Also, the original PRL filter is listed as a 6” flange diameter, but it’s actually 5.5” when measured. The MAF tube the filter mounts on has an OD of 5.75”, which is why the PRL fits so tightly, and a filter with a 6” diameter flange fits loosely.
MrBBQ
Senior Member
Sorry, I haven't had a chance to work on the car due to the Holidays and New Year. This weekend looks promising though. I did pop a code P0101 twice recently. Reset and came back on the 2nd drive after reset. Scanner says it's a MAF sensor performance issue, so I'll be checking what that is about too. Car in limp mode sucks.
MrBBQ
Senior Member
Happy to report I didn't see a layer of fine dust inside the HVI and Inlet tubings when I took apart the tubings to inspect and install the TSP coupler today. This is after running the AEM Dryflow for a year. I swapped it to the AEM Dryflow because I did find a layer of fine dust inside when I installed my Inlet pipe. So far so good, I like it 
.
.champ_white_FL5
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Awesome, thanks for updating! Sounds like the AEM is sealing well.Happy to report I didn't see a layer of fine dust inside the HVI and Inlet tubings when I took apart the tubings to inspect and install the TSP coupler today. This is after running the AEM Dryflow for a year. I swapped it to the AEM Dryflow because I did find a layer of fine dust inside when I installed my Inlet pipe. So far so good, I like it
Deleted User 3888
Senior Member
Appreciate the infoHappy to report I didn't see a layer of fine dust inside the HVI and Inlet tubings when I took apart the tubings to inspect and install the TSP coupler today. This is after running the AEM Dryflow for a year. I swapped it to the AEM Dryflow because I did find a layer of fine dust inside when I installed my Inlet pipe. So far so good, I like it
champ_white_FL5
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Here's the inside of the plastic EVAP elbow after using the PRL HVI/filter for the past few thousand miles. Might switch to the AEM to see if it's able to keep the intake tube cleaner.
Nikw91
Senior Member
The AEM has been fine, on for 5,000 miles now. It is a little quieter and a little less power then the PRL cone they call a “filter.” LolHere's the inside of the plastic EVAP elbow after using the PRL HVI/filter for the past few thousand miles. Might switch to the AEM to see if it's able to keep the intake tube cleaner.
MrBBQ
Senior Member
The AEM Dryflow does a good job IMO. I took the inlet and intake tubes apart again to inspect for maybe a crack or boost leak (still getting this random P0101 CEL) and it's still clean inside. Highly recommend upgrading from the PRL filter.Here's the inside of the plastic EVAP elbow after using the PRL HVI/filter for the past few thousand miles. Might switch to the AEM to see if it's able to keep the intake tube cleaner.
I have an extra AEM Dryflow to sell if anybody wants one. I had bought two thinking I will just swap it out when the one on the car gets dirty, but it'll be awhile since I don't drive her much. Almost 2 years and only have 6500k miles.
champ_white_FL5
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Have you checked your fuel trims? That might help you narrow down that MAF code.The AEM Dryflow does a good job IMO. I took the inlet and intake tubes apart again to inspect for maybe a crack or boost leak (still getting this random P0101 CEL) and it's still clean inside. Highly recommend upgrading from the PRL filter.
I have an extra AEM Dryflow to sell if anybody wants one. I had bought two thinking I will just swap it out when the one on the car gets dirty, but it'll be awhile since I don't drive her much. Almost 2 years and only have 6500k miles.
MrBBQ
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice! However, embarrassed to say reading fuel trims and monitoring data via a scanner is new to me. I can tear an engine apart and rebuild, not an issue, but never really learnt the software side. Before I go to YouTube University, any pointers to look for? I have a physical scanner and an AP200.
champ_white_FL5
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Hey I'm no expert either, I just like to tinker! Using the AP200 might be easiest since it's a Bluetooth scanner that you can read on your phone.
Add short term fuel trim bank 1 and long term fuel trim bank 1 to live monitoring.
LTFT should be +-5 and STFT should be +-10 or so while driving but can fluctuate quite a bit. If both trims are highly positive like +15 to +20 I'd think it's a vacuum leak.
You can also monitor your MAF g/s to see if it's going out of spec and when. Wot, idle, cruising, etc. hope this helps!
OP
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timestamped
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Just adding that I finally got mine installed
jtlctr
Senior Member
I was about to ask the same question about AFE filters! I’m curious about the quality of the dry medium.
Here are 2 AFE P/Ns that should fit the same as the PRL filter:
TF-9007D
21-90052 (this one has a 1” hole in the top for whatever reason. But it looks like it’s plugged, and it’s significantly cheaper.)
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