New FL5 Break-In Period - Looking for Honda's Prescription

[svvitch]

I just avoided full throttle for first 600 miles. After 200 miles I had no problem half throttle up to 5k rpm. I'm at 12.5k now ?

Group of us headed to VIR in May for some track time. Feel free to check it out should be a great time if you're interested in tracking the R ?

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[hoping2Get1]

FWIW - did my first oil change a bit over 2k miles, and based on the UOA the oil had sheard down a bit. I did do many short trips, with no track time.

link to the oil analysis: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/24-ctr-uoa-break-in-oil-2-292mi.54721/

 

[cryptolime]

Another thing I'd say is to avoid lugging the engine, so dont go into 6th gear and accelerate @ low RPMS.

Its hard on your turbo when its new

it's hard on it when it's old too

 

[Hiro-san]

Also found it hidden in the manual, 1000km in my part of the world.

I watched a few videos and read about engine braking, which you can do through the normal course of driving during those 600 miles.

Congrats and many happy miles!

 

[Ktrw]

When the car is completely brand new, you actually want to do several partial throttle pulls. Your piston rings need cylinder pressure to wear in properly against the cylinder wall. You don't need to go to redline (would just keep it below 5k rpm or so), and you shouldn't anyway because peak cylinder pressure occurs at peak torque which is basically low to mid-range rpms on modern turbo engines. Getting some load on the engine once it's up to operating temp when it's brand new is a good thing for ring seal, and this happens pretty quickly in terms of mileage.

It makes sense to do an oil change anywhere from 600-1000 miles to get a large portion of break-in material out of the engine. The engine will be "fine" either way but the less contaminants in the oil, the better for reducing unnecessary wear.

Before anyone says it, no these engines do not have a special break in oil. In fact they have a high moly oil which is not good, nor intended, for the break-in process.

 

[2fast916]

Welcome, and it's great seeing another SGP owner!

I got told to just drive the car and not worry about it at all.

For the first 1500 KMs I never went past 3500 rpm and never lugged the engine in a higher gear than needed.

Varying the rpms is recommended.
No need to change oil or fluids either but I suppose you could if you wanted to.

Enjoy the car!

Thank you!!!

 

[2fast916]

I just avoided full throttle for first 600 miles. After 200 miles I had no problem half throttle up to 5k rpm. I'm at 12.5k now ?

Group of us headed to VIR in May for some track time. Feel free to check it out should be a great time if you're interested in tracking the R ?

Thanks!!! I will keep my eyes out in the future for sure. I've been to a 2 wheeled track day at VIR but, never experienced the track with 4 wheels. Want to get my FL5 broken in first for sure and am trying to avoid driving it at the end of the winter here in New England so, it might take me a couple of months...

 

[2fast916]

When the car is completely brand new, you actually want to do several partial throttle pulls. Your piston rings need cylinder pressure to wear in properly against the cylinder wall. You don't need to go to redline (would just keep it below 5k rpm or so), and you shouldn't anyway because peak cylinder pressure occurs at peak torque which is basically low to mid-range rpms on modern turbo engines. Getting some load on the engine once it's up to operating temp when it's brand new is a good thing for ring seal, and this happens pretty quickly in terms of mileage.

It makes sense to do an oil change anywhere from 600-1000 miles to get a large portion of break-in material out of the engine. The engine will be "fine" either way but the less contaminants in the oil, the better for reducing unnecessary wear.

Before anyone says it, no these engines do not have a special break in oil. In fact they have a high moly oil which is not good, nor intended, for the break-in process.

Great info...thanks! I was planning on 1K for my oil change and then would consider using Amsoil from that point forward. I haven't done any research on the FL5 but, I'm a dealer and have run all their products in all my vehicles and equipment.

 

[B16B]

I can't decide between Amsoil SS or using the Honda Synthetic oil. I have used Amsoil in most of my cars. It's great oil, but I don't plan on modifying this CTR like how my previous cars were. I guess time will tell, but I might drop the current oil when I hit the 600 mile mark or right around there.

 

[2fast916]

I can't decide between Amsoil SS or using the Honda Synthetic oil. I have used Amsoil in most of my cars. It's great oil, but I don't plan on modifying this CTR like how my previous cars were. I guess time will tell, but I might drop the current oil when I hit the 600 mile mark or right around there.

Let us know what you eventually decide. Are you leaning towards Honda Synthetic, due to the cost of Amsoil?

I was planning on waiting until about 1K before changing the oil. I am certainly not an expert...blindly following what seems to be the most common practice.

 

[B16B]

Let us know what you eventually decide. Are you leaning towards Honda Synthetic, due to the cost of Amsoil?

I was planning on waiting until about 1K before changing the oil. I am certainly not an expert...blindly following what seems to be the most common practice.

The car does come with the 3 year service so I don't know If I can just walk into the dealer and tell them to add my Amsoil fluid sitting in the trunk. I don't have experience with Honda, but I never had issues supplying the BMW dealer with my own Amsoil oil.

 

[menikmati]

I can't decide between Amsoil SS or using the Honda Synthetic oil. I have used Amsoil in most of my cars. It's great oil, but I don't plan on modifying this CTR like how my previous cars were...
...
The car does come with the 3 year service...
...

Flip a coin, the only noticeable difference is what's left in your wallet.

 

[Ktrw]

Just posted this over on the DE5 forums as well.

I got the result back for my break in oil change. I'm not a big fan of the factory fill for these cars given that it's sheared out of grade in 1k miles. Glad I didn't run it any longer, this might be the lowest viscosity I've seen on a UOA for the factory fill on the first oil change for these cars. Unnecessarily high level of calcium for a turbo DI engine as well.

No short trips, no track mileage, and the fuel dilution was somewhat high relative to what I've seen from others. Only run premium gas from Chevron, Shell, or 76 and I use Redline SL-1. Other cars in my family fleet have lower fuel dilution with worse driving habits.

I'm about to do my second oil change now that I'm at 3k miles and that will show results for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20. Will likely be running PUP, Amsoil, Driven, or HPL from now on.

 

[Rhorn]

I kept the factory fill till the oil life indicator said 25%. I didn't do the first oil change till around 7,000 miles

I did changed it again before my first track day and did 2 track days. You'll be fine

 

[joshinthecity]

Your piston rings need cylinder pressure to wear in properly against the cylinder wall.

This is the key. Another thing I personally do when breaking in a new engine, is long steep downhills, engine braking at about 3000rpm.

Actually, long moderate uphills, at say 3500rpm and mid throttle + long downhills the same, engine braking, would be absolutely ideal for break in. I also try to do the break in with as few stops and cold starts as possible. Get up to temp, and keep it at temp.
Very high rpm to be avoided, but importantly, very low rpm (with load) to be avoided even more.

If you have mechanical sympathy and a good "feel" (which I'd say most here do have) Then you'll be able to feel all the above just feeling "right" Not sure how else to explain it.

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