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onepointsix

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I was entertaining the M2's as they're around the same price area as the CTR here in Canada. But realistically, it's not practical enough though it would be hella fun to drive.
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mbaapk

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M2 and M240i are basically 2 seater pocket rockets. Totally different class really. The m2 is ugly af and the gauge cluster on the m240i is crab claw terrible. If you go either, go last gen. BMW is in the dumps.
 

Jigalo

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M2 and M240i are basically 2 seater pocket rockets. Totally different class really. The m2 is ugly af and the gauge cluster on the m240i is crab claw terrible. If you go either, go last gen. BMW is in the dumps.
Fully agree they are different classes. Just with the additional ADM, I’m comparing the 2. I appreciate your feedback though!
 

Village911

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Hey @savagegeese, When are you planning to do your first oil change?

I know there has been a huge discussion on the FK8 10th-gen forum regarding the first oil change (I'm surprised that everyone is so different) and now that you have your FL5, I'm curious (some of us definitely will) about when you would do your first change.

Thanks always, huge huge fan...!
 
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savagegeese

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Hey @savagegeese, When are you planning to do your first oil change?

I know there has been a huge discussion on the FK8 10th-gen forum regarding the first oil change (I'm surprised that everyone is so different) and now that you have your FL5, I'm curious (some of us definitely will) about when you would do your first change.

Thanks always, huge huge fan...!
I always dump oil at 1k to get rid of sealers, silcones etc from break in. Then at 3,000 again. After that its condition dependant. For this car in winter Ill just stick with 0w20 in Spring/Summer for track move to 5w30 and monitor oil temps and pressures and adjust oil grade as needed.

Most engine builders we spoke with have said to break engines in varying rpm and load up to 500 miles. Then drive it normal. But don't track until 1000-1500 miles as the rest of the mechanicals need to heat cycle and parts get the normal wear patterns. Then its ok to do extreme heat cycling for extended periods (like track) where everything heat soaks, trans, bushings, etc.

From working with Ariel Atom/TMI and HPD they just say to dump oil every 3-5k even on tracked cars. (Same engine)
 


Village911

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I always dump oil at 1k to get rid of sealers, silcones etc from break in. Then at 3,000 again. After that its condition dependant. For this car in winter Ill just stick with 0w20 in Spring/Summer for track move to 5w30 and monitor oil temps and pressures and adjust oil grade as needed.

Most engine builders we spoke with have said to break engines in varying rpm and load up to 500 miles. Then drive it normal. But don't track until 1000-1500 miles as the rest of the mechanicals need to heat cycle and parts get the normal wear patterns. Then its ok to do extreme heat cycling for extended periods (like track) where everything heat soaks, trans, bushings, etc.

From working with Ariel Atom/TMI and HPD they just say to dump oil every 3-5k even on tracked cars. (Same engine)
Thank you for sharing your plans for fluid changes. They are very similar to mine except I'm putting 1.5k on the first oil change and 2nd at 3k and every other at 3-5k.

I realized (based on Blackstone Labs results) that you still get plenty of aluminum, iron, copper, molybdenum, silicon, etc from the 2nd round of oil change. So this time, I'm planning to flush out the 2nd oil quicker than I used to do it.

EDIT: Again, Congrats on RR! ?
 
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ScumbagRob

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I always dump oil at 1k to get rid of sealers, silcones etc from break in. Then at 3,000 again. After that its condition dependant. For this car in winter Ill just stick with 0w20 in Spring/Summer for track move to 5w30 and monitor oil temps and pressures and adjust oil grade as needed.

Most engine builders we spoke with have said to break engines in varying rpm and load up to 500 miles. Then drive it normal. But don't track until 1000-1500 miles as the rest of the mechanicals need to heat cycle and parts get the normal wear patterns. Then its ok to do extreme heat cycling for extended periods (like track) where everything heat soaks, trans, bushings, etc.

From working with Ariel Atom/TMI and HPD they just say to dump oil every 3-5k even on tracked cars. (Same engine)
Does the varying RPM in the first 500 miles include all the way up to redline?
 

RickyJeezus

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Based on user name you can likely tell what we do. But there will be many members of media buying these cars. Some for just clicks others because they love it. I got an allocation before driving it based on discussions from insiders. Now that I have driven it and spoken with Chief Engineer I am confident in my choice.

Our launch video will have driving impressions then when my personal car is delivered we will be answering technical questions. As you may already know there are many similarities to FK8 so it's not a ground up re-think but slightly different approach.

I will be posting in here and following the community to see what's going on along with working with King Motorsports/Mugen who was co developing a race car in Japan with Honda Engineers. So we have lots of information to contribute and also learn from other owners.

If you have questions I will try and answer them also trying to stay in touch with Honda about issues problems and of course dealer abuse. Regional reps are keeping a close on dealers who are doing mark up BS to make sure allocations go to those not playing games.

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I know I'm a little late on this second question that I had for you.

A little while ago (maybe over a year ago) on the Smoking Tire podcast there we're a couple journalists on (I forgot their names and which publications they wrote for) but I remember them mentioning a story they wrote on a company that that makes retrofit rear-steer systems. When they we're invited to test them they we're fitted on FK8s, and when I heard that I thought "oh shit the new type R is going to have rear steer"....now obviously the FL5's dont have rear-steer, but do you see that as a possibility to further develop and improve the 'always fwd' Type R?
 
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savagegeese

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No, avoid redline if you can
Correct, they recommend avoiding fully loaded up at redline stay below 5500RPM for first 500 miles.

Keep in mind these are not scientific recommendations but based on experience and what engineers usually recommend.
 


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savagegeese

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I know I'm a little late on this second question that I had for you.

A little while ago (maybe over a year ago) on the Smoking Tire podcast there we're a couple journalists on (I forgot their names and which publications they wrote for) but I remember them mentioning a story they wrote on a company that that makes retrofit rear-steer systems. When they we're invited to test them they we're fitted on FK8s, and when I heard that I thought "oh shit the new type R is going to have rear steer"....now obviously the FL5's dont have rear-steer, but do you see that as a possibility to further develop and improve the 'always fwd' Type R?
You typically will never see rear steer implemented at this price point, wheel base and FWD. It requires far more ECU power and body control module processing along with calibration that exceeds the development budget from Honda on most any car they currently make.
 

Kfo_cpa

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Correct, they recommend avoiding fully loaded up at redline stay below 5500RPM for first 500 miles.

Keep in mind these are not scientific recommendations but based on experience and what engineers usually recommend.
Are you going to do a street driving YouTube review? I’m hoping you do before chi town winter comes. I want to hear about driving in comfort mode. Thanks!
 
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savagegeese

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Are you going to do a street driving YouTube review? I’m hoping you do before chi town winter comes. I want to hear about driving in comfort mode. Thanks!
Its really good in comfort, maybe 10% more firm than Si.
 

AspecR

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I talked with the Acura folks about it. They would not say much, so I don't want to make any assumptions. But I don't see the Japanese allowing them to make a near clone of the Type R using same parts. I hope I am wrong.
Off topic but, there in lies the problem with Acura, always feels like Honda makes some decisions to purposefully hold them back.
 

Estoril4

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Off topic but, there in lies the problem with Acura, always feels like Honda makes some decisions to purposefully hold them back.
I don't think you're wrong. It seems like they are supposed to be the more 'upscale' manufacturer but work with hand-me-downs a lot. Sounds like they at least have access to the powertrain possibly since the engine is manufactured in the states. It will be interesting to see how the suspension geometry plays out, I'd be surprised if they were having to recreate what has already been done on the type R as far as avoiding torque steer etc.
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