svvitch
Senior Member
The 40 weight is. The 30 are shown to be very shear stable. But yes the 0w40 and 5w40 seems to turn into a heavy 30 weight after a short time.
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For occasional track use , which oil viscosity to use? Using oil data sheet for guidance
Ktrw
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Their 20 grade also shears pretty badly other than the Truck & SUV formula. You could probably run some Mobil 1 5W-30 formulas knowing that it will shear down into a 20 grade pretty quickly once you factor in fuel dilution on top of it. I have a built 1JZ that I run M1 15W-50 in because I know it will shear down into more like a 15W-40 pretty quickly and I can see it in the oil pressure lol. I would like to encourage people to try some other oils than M1 since a lot of folks think they make an excellent product no matter the type or grade and that simply just isn't true. M1 has some good oils in their lineup, but they have some bad ones too.
. I have a specific use case where I expect the M1 15W-50 to shear out of grade and I use it because it's cheap and I do very frequent oil changes for my 1JZ but I wouldn't use it in my K20C other than maybe the truck & suv since it seems to be one of their better oils.
It's not just the 40 grade, which they have multiple types of that shear out of grade quickly, including Porsche approved versions.
Their 20 grade also shears pretty badly other than the Truck & SUV formula. You could probably run some Mobil 1 5W-30 formulas knowing that it will shear down into a 20 grade pretty quickly once you factor in fuel dilution on top of it. I have a built 1JZ that I run M1 15W-50 in because I know it will shear down into more like a 15W-40 pretty quickly and I can see it in the oil pressure lol. I would like to encourage people to try some other oils than M1 since a lot of folks think they make an excellent product no matter the type or grade and that simply just isn't true. M1 has some good oils in their lineup, but they have some bad ones too.
I don't think it's something you SHOULD want
. I have a specific use case where I expect the M1 15W-50 to shear out of grade and I use it because it's cheap and I do very frequent oil changes for my 1JZ but I wouldn't use it in my K20C other than maybe the truck & suv since it seems to be one of their better oils. Depends on the car but I'm using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at the moment in my DE5. My first UOA showed the factory fill sheared down quite a bit and the fuel dilution was higher than I expected so I wanted something inexpensive to do shorter OCIs. My next UOA will be PUP 0W-20, just need to send the sample out, and the one after that will be PUP 5W-30 since that's in the car currently. Looking forward to trying some other oils after that more than likely. Considering trying some boutique brands but we'll see.
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svvitch
Senior Member
I posted previously about M1 esp 0w30 and 5w30. 5w30 preferred less VII. Overall good uoa on both. Didn't shear to a 20w and hths above 3.5 for our turbo application. Gonna stick with it...
It's not just the 40 grade, which they have multiple types of that shear out of grade quickly, including Porsche approved versions.
Their 20 grade also shears pretty badly other than the Truck & SUV formula. You could probably run some Mobil 1 5W-30 formulas knowing that it will shear down into a 20 grade pretty quickly once you factor in fuel dilution on top of it. I have a built 1JZ that I run M1 15W-50 in because I know it will shear down into more like a 15W-40 pretty quickly and I can see it in the oil pressure lol. I would like to encourage people to try some other oils than M1 since a lot of folks think they make an excellent product no matter the type or grade and that simply just isn't true. M1 has some good oils in their lineup, but they have some bad ones too.
I don't think it's something you SHOULD want
Depends on the car but I'm using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at the moment in my DE5. My first UOA showed the factory fill sheared down quite a bit and the fuel dilution was higher than I expected so I wanted something inexpensive to do shorter OCIs. My next UOA will be PUP 0W-20, just need to send the sample out, and the one after that will be PUP 5W-30 since that's in the car currently. Looking forward to trying some other oils after that more than likely. Considering trying some boutique brands but we'll see.
It's easy to find for me also shockingly my Walmart doesn't always have PUP. The c30 and 227.51 approvals are stringent I'll stick with the euro stuff. The Pennzoil euro isn't always in stock. Castrol is sometimes.
Ktrw
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Yeah I think you're safe if you're using 30 grade anyway since it won't fall too far but thats good it's working for your application.I posted previously about M1 esp 0w30 and 5w30. 5w30 preferred less VII. Overall good uoa on both. Didn't shear to a 20w and hths above 3.5 for our turbo application. Gonna stick with it
It's easy to find for me also shockingly my Walmart doesn't always have PUP. The c30 and 227.51 approvals are stringent I'll stick with the euro stuff. The Pennzoil euro isn't always in stock. Castrol is sometimes.
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CONCEPTMACHINE
Member
It's why I'm just going to run a 0-30 m1 here in Midwest year round. I'll change the oil at 3000 miles anyway. Im expecting sheer but want the 0w for starting in cool temps. There's only like 3 months of the year when id be starting at 70f+ temps.
Not really concerned with it. If chanfing oil at 5000 miles+ then I'd maybe think of a better quality oil
Not really concerned with it. If chanfing oil at 5000 miles+ then I'd maybe think of a better quality oil
Rhorn
Senior Member
I just got back from SRO GT America today.
I intentionally went to the paddock to track down the DE5 ITS TC Race Car and talk to the race team. I spoke with the driver and can confirm that they are using Mobile 1 0W-40 ESP x4 for their race car.
Bonus picture of the driver giving me the rundown of the steering wheel
I intentionally went to the paddock to track down the DE5 ITS TC Race Car and talk to the race team. I spoke with the driver and can confirm that they are using Mobile 1 0W-40 ESP x4 for their race car.
Bonus picture of the driver giving me the rundown of the steering wheel
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Rhorn
Senior Member
This is the brochure which has everything that was changed.
Not much was done to the engine because its restricted by class regulations. The compression ratio is higher. Basically the biggest difference is that it has a sequential transmission instead of the stock manual transmission, but the engine only makes 360hp.
It still has 3 pedals and to start it you actually have to depress the clutch, press the neutral button on the steering wheel and then press the paddle to shift it into first.
Not much was done to the engine because its restricted by class regulations. The compression ratio is higher. Basically the biggest difference is that it has a sequential transmission instead of the stock manual transmission, but the engine only makes 360hp.
It still has 3 pedals and to start it you actually have to depress the clutch, press the neutral button on the steering wheel and then press the paddle to shift it into first.
johnloov
Senior Member
I’ll have the last sample of Honda ultimate 0w20 results back in a few weeks, after 1 track day at Laguna Seca and 2 track days at COTA ~ 2500 miles total.
Next thinking of testing Motul 300v 5w30 for the next 5 oil changes ( free via FCP Euro ) and see if the lab results are better. Theoretically Ester PAO run 10-15% cooler and supposedly it’s the best. Maybe after can test this mobile esp 0w-40.
Curious did they say why they are not running a Motul or Redline PAO / Ester blend?
Also Anyone recommend an accurate good oil temp system to install and take readings?
Spoon is running 5w30 Ravenol rep pao ester blend in 25 hour race and noticing ~10 degrees cooler oil temps. I think it’s Api SP.
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johnloov
Senior Member
I'll make a wild guess and say it's because he didn't ask
Very curious why the chose a 0w-40 which has more viscosity index improvers that can sheer easier than a 5w-40 or 5w-30 . Closer numbers generally have more lubricity is my understandingI'll make a wild guess and say it's because he didn't ask
Rhorn
Senior Member
I dont think thats necessarily true. The winter rating doesn't have that much of an affect on the viscosity index. The rating only matters when the oil is cold, when its warmed up viscosity rating matters more. Maybe if we are talking about a specific formula that comes in 0W-40 and 5W40 like Motul 300V then that might be true but the specific formula of the oil will matter more for the correct application.
ESP X4 only comes in 0W-40 for a 40 weight oil. Even the other oil, Mobile 1 C40 GT thats specific for the Porsche GT cars only comes in 0W-40. Why these only come in 0W-40 and not 5W40? Thats a question for Mobil 1.
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