Installing Front Tow Hook on FL5?

[Cdsbblue]

Anyone figure out whether a front tow hook can be added to FL5? Or are we stuck with the hook under the car?

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[TypeRD]

I think we’re stuck for now. I haven’t seen anyone develop a front tow hook yet.

 

[Cdsbblue]

Yeah, that's what I figured. I'll be at Road Atlanta in April. Worried about a tow rope screwing up the front end. It's my first time on track in a FWD - I'll probably understeer right into the green line in T1, 5 or 6.

 

[keller]

Most fk8s had to modify the bumper to install front tow hooks. And towing from the lower chassis hook indeed damages the lip. So, in the meantime, just ask to use the rear tow hook in your fl5.

I'll probably understeer right into the green line in T1, 5 or 6.

Inflate your tires and keep an eye on hot pressures and it's oversteer that should worry you =) In a fwd, remember to floor it when the time comes. Keep us posted!

 

[Cdsbblue]

Yeah, I'm going to make every effort to be extra smooth on throttle lift and brake modulation. I'll take it extra, extra easy for first day sessions to get a feel for weight shifts. I am accustomed to using throttle oversteer in my RWD cars - great way to rotate, but definitely not a great way to correct oversteer on 650 hp RWD! Thanks for the guidance - I'll try to power out of an oversteer with this car. I'll give an update on how the car and I fared. It'll be pretty much stock except for Falken RT 660 on 18X9.5 Apex EC-7 rims, SRF fluid, Paragon rotors & R5/P3 pads. I intend to use sport mode on suspension and steering. Several abrupt elevation changes and curb use and I'm a bit concerned that the car might be unsettled with R suspension super stiff settings.

 

[Ministry]

Has anyone removed the panel and installed the rear tow hook? Fairly straightforward?

 

[Rad Ray]

Anyone figure out whether a front tow hook can be added to FL5? Or are we stuck with the hook under the car?

Dumb question, but exactly where is the front hook? I've looked, but must be looking in the wrong places obviously - LOL!

 

[keller]

Yeah, I'm going to make every effort to be extra smooth on throttle lift and brake modulation. I'll take it extra, extra easy for first day sessions to get a feel for weight shifts. I am accustomed to using throttle oversteer in my RWD cars - great way to rotate, but definitely not a great way to correct oversteer on 650 hp RWD! Thanks for the guidance - I'll try to power out of an oversteer with this car. I'll give an update on how the car and I fared. It'll be pretty much stock except for Falken RT 660 on 18X9.5 Apex EC-7 rims, SRF fluid, Paragon rotors & R5/P3 pads. I intend to use sport mode on suspension and steering. Several abrupt elevation changes and curb use and I'm a bit concerned that the car might be unsettled with R suspension super stiff settings.

oh damn, 650 hp.... Yeah, it takes some time to get used to accelerate out of an oversteer. After all, it's the opposite of what we are used to do. Another subtle difference in handling in torquey fwds with a LSD is that you can (depending on condition) pull yourself in and rotate at a corner exit by accelerating hard. It's really noticeable when you throttle lift abruptly at a corner exit - or, more frequently, when you disengage the clutch to upshift. Also, since you are coming from a rwd, you'll notice the pressure in the rear tires barely rises. You need to keep checking your hot pressures otherwise it will get understeery.

Btw why did you decide to change rotors already?

Even in stock form, the CTR is pretty capable. You are in for a great time, no doubt. I'd love to read your impressions.

I believe you are right about +R. The only problem is going to be the VSA. AFAIK you can't turn the VSA fully off in individual mode, and (at least in the fk8) it kicks in all the time in any mode out of +R. In +R mode, as long as you are smooth, you can even leave the VSA on and it won't bother you once.

 

[Cdsbblue]

Dumb question, but exactly where is the front hook? I've looked, but must be looking in the wrong places obviously - LOL!

Not a dumb question at all. I need to confirm it too, but I believe it under the car on the passenger side. From what I understand, it is a bit recessed. Forgot to look at it when I had the car up on the lift, but I'll get back to you with a pic. Might be a few days though.

 

[Cdsbblue]

oh damn, 650 hp.... Yeah, it takes some time to get used to accelerate out of an oversteer. After all, it's the opposite of what we are used to do. Another subtle difference in handling in torquey fwds with a LSD is that you can (depending on condition) pull yourself in and rotate at a corner exit by accelerating hard. It's really noticeable when you throttle lift abruptly at a corner exit - or, more frequently, when you disengage the clutch to upshift. Also, since you are coming from a rwd, you'll notice the pressure in the rear tires barely rises. You need to keep checking your hot pressures otherwise it will get understeery.

Btw why did you decide to change rotors already?

Even in stock form, the CTR is pretty capable. You are in for a great time, no doubt. I'd love to read your impressions.

I believe you are right about +R. The only problem is going to be the VSA. AFAIK you can't turn the VSA fully off in individual mode, and (at least in the fk8) it kicks in all the time in any mode out of +R. In +R mode, as long as you are smooth, you can even leave the VSA on and it won't bother you once.

As to tire pressure, I've noticed that quite a few fellas inflate the rear tires less than the front. I assumed for more compliance or because of VSA constantly applying brakes. Not sure though. Bit of a shame that these cars don't show current tire pressure, but can't have everything I guess.

I changed the rotors because I was initially planning on installing extended studs and doing some camber mods. While it was all off, I figured why not. Ran into what is going to be a time crunch before the next event, so I went ahead and put on the rotors just because I felt like tinkering a bit. Based on what I've read, stock would have served me well at this point with a bit of SRF or Motul. After track, I'll try to figure how much I really want or need more camber. I am fortunate because United Speed Racing is just down the road and they can help out with some of the work if I get jammed up.

I think I'll try non R+ while I am getting used to the car. Nannies can be a huge pain on exit but might give me a heads up where I need to smooth it out too. After a few sessions, I'll give the R+ a go and report back. Thanks again for the words of wisdom!

 

[Cdsbblue]

Has anyone removed the panel and installed the rear tow hook? Fairly straightforward?

I haven't yet, but I'll remove that little black panel in the back this weekend and check it out. Just in case.

 

[EvanMcC]

As to tire pressure, I've noticed that quite a few fellas inflate the rear tires less than the front. I assumed for more compliance or because of VSA constantly applying brakes. Not sure though. Bit of a shame that these cars don't show current tire pressure, but can't have everything I guess.

I changed the rotors because I was initially planning on installing extended studs and doing some camber mods. While it was all off, I figured why not. Ran into what is going to be a time crunch before the next event, so I went ahead and put on the rotors just because I felt like tinkering a bit. Based on what I've read, stock would have served me well at this point with a bit of SRF or Motul. After track, I'll try to figure how much I really want or need more camber. I am fortunate because United Speed Racing is just down the road and they can help out with some of the work if I get jammed up.

I think I'll try non R+ while I am getting used to the car. Nannies can be a huge pain on exit but might give me a heads up where I need to smooth it out too. After a few sessions, I'll give the R+ a go and report back. Thanks again for the words of wisdom!

If it's any help, in my limited track experience, and this was with the FK8 not my FL5 - reducing VSA/TC in Comfort/Sport/Individual is similar calibration to what VSA/TC *ON* is like in +R mode. So just going to +R in the first place reduces the intervention of the systems a bit. Then you can reduce VSA/TC further when in +R, or do the 10-sec hold or whatever and it's almost as Off as it'll get, save for doing the pedal dance.

I might be wrong but just thought I'd share.

Anyways have fun!

 

[Rad Ray]

Not a dumb question at all. I need to confirm it too, but I believe it under the car on the passenger side. From what I understand, it is a bit recessed. Forgot to look at it when I had the car up on the lift, but I'll get back to you with a pic. Might be a few days though.

Thanks!!!!

 

[Rad Ray]

Thanks!!!!

The only location that I can fathom as a tow attachment seems to be the small curvature under the passenger’s side front frame rail. There’s a similar configuration on the driver’s side too. Either might cause bumper damage if towed at a steep angle. The rear attachment site seems reasonable, but towing

pros would know better.

 

[Cdsbblue]

Ha - was getting ready to post a pic too. Like you said, there are one of those bad boys on each side and I can't imagine that you can get pulled by that on track without some damage to the front end. I just took off the black plastic cover in the back - pretty easy. You just go around with a flat plastic body panel tool and press in every 1/4 inch or so and then each tab releases as you GENTLY pull. I got a little impatient and broke one of the tabs (there are probably 12 or so). If anyone wants a pic of it, just holler.

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