Track Alignment Settings?

[Djseto]

What are the "optimal" caster, toe, and camber alignment settings on an OEM FL5 setup with the camber pins removed?

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[svvitch]

I believe as much negative camber as you can get, along with zero toe rear and slight toe out in front? Someone needs to verify that however.

 

[svvitch]

Fk8 Track alignment | Page 2 | 2016+ Honda Civic Forum (10th Gen) - Type R Forum, Si Forum - CivicX.com

 

[Djseto]

I realize the FL5 is more evolution than revolution of the FK8. Is everyone using FK8 settings as the benchmark or is there anything unique to FL5 setup?

 

[svvitch]

I don't know if there is anything unique to the FL5 vs other fwd platforms the concepts remain the same. More negative camber front vs rear, front toe out for turn in and rear toe out for rotation (or adjust based on your preferences) and keep eye on tire temps inside vs outside. Some tires need more camber vs others.

Just my 2 cents hope it helps. I've had a lot of front drive platforms not much to change without a clear goal in mind. Aside from just trying not to kill outside edge of your front tires

 

[Djseto]

Thanks for the additional info. Is there a max limit to how much the OEM setup will allow you to go negative? I've only been tracking a FD RX7 for years and that car has double wishbone. Aside from maybe -1.2-1.5 degrees of camber front and rear, you don't have to mess with anything really on that chassis. For the FL5, do track settings mean also reverting back to street settings? For the RX7,I run the same alignment for street and track and wear is quite even.

I have my first track weekend next month in the FL5. In addition to getting used to FWD dynamics, I want to also know what to suspension wise. I'll be running the PS4's on OEM rims this go around.

 

[svvitch]

From what I've read with strut pins pulled up front it's maybe -2 camber? Varies a little from car to car. I don't think that's excessive for a daily. I'm not sure where the rear maxes out but since front is camber limited the rear shouldnt be more than the front.

I have adjustable ball joints waiting to go on and I'll shoot for -3 up front to start.

 

[svvitch]

My ps4s did well with stock alignment restrictions. Even wear. I run same alignment setup street and track

I'd step up to a higher oil weight however if you haven't already

 

[Djseto]

My ps4s did well with stock alignment restrictions. Even wear. I run same alignment setup street and track

I'd step up to a higher oil weight however if you haven't already

What weight oil did you go to? I really prefer Valvoline VR1, but it doenst come in the 5w30 which I know is what @PointByPatrol runs.

 

[svvitch]

I picked 0w30 mobil 1 ESP.


I was looking for higher base viscosity. But I'm sure any name brand full synthetic 30 weight will work. I just tend to over analyzes simple decisions sometimes

 

[Djseto]

haha. Analysis paralysis. I know that game.

So you're just moving from OEM 0w20 to 0w30...

 

[svvitch]

Yes a thicker 30 weight compared to some other 30 weights.

 

[Djseto]

My ps4s did well with stock alignment restrictions. Even wear. I run same alignment setup street and track

I'd step up to a higher oil weight however if you haven't already

So to be clear, you pulled the pins and run -2'ish up front on the OEM 19" PS4? Or did you mean you ran the OEM alignment when you said "stock alignment restrictions ?

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

For serious track goers I recommend between -3° to -3.8° at the front, this depends on your tyres, wheels, and suspension set up. I always run zero toe at the front, as I personally don't believe the accelerated tyre wear with front toe out is worth the extremely marginal gain in front bite.
Pulling camber pins and going max negative will only net you an extra -0.3° over the OEM -1.5° (result = -1.8°).
You need to install the camber ball joint or run coilovers with adjustable strut tops to go beyond -1.8°.
Rear camber anywhere between -2° to -2.5° is fine. Rear toe in between 0 to +3mm. A car lowered by 20mm will induce an extra ~ -0.5° in the rear axle. More toe in for colder conditions to help drive some heat into the rear tyres, this is always a struggle on fwd platform. Never run toe out on the rear axle, anyone who tells you this is what they do to make their car rotate has a poorly set up balance between front and rear axle roll stiffness.
All of this advise should be used in conjunction with your own testing (pyrometers across the width of the thread) and close monitoring what your tyres are telling you after each session.

 

[Djseto]

For serious track goers I recommend between -3° to -3.8° at the front, this depends on your tyres, wheels, and suspension set up. I always run zero toe at the front, as I personally don't believe the accelerated tyre wear with front toe out is worth the extremely marginal gain in front bite.
Rear camber anywhere between -2° to -2.5° is fine. Rear toe in between 0 to +3mm. More toe in for colder conditions to help drive some heat into the rear tyres, this is always a struggle on fwd platform.
All of this advise should be used in conjunction with your own testing (pyrometers across the width of the thread) and close monitoring what your tyres are telling you after each session.

Appreciate the insight! Since Ill be running everything OEM, it sounds like I can't quite get to -3+ on front. Any thoughts on track setup for full OEM FL5 (except for pads and fluids)? I've been RWD for the last few years so first time on track in the FL5 and FWD.

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