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Cdsbblue

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I tracked the car at Road Atlanta for two days with Porsche PCA. Temps were in low to high 70's. Rainy the first day, nice the second.

First, everyone loved the car, especially the track crew. Second, they were laughing about hard it was running and pushing much faster cars. And it really was the car - I was pretty tentative gauging threshold braking, and entry and exit speed grip. In short, I was seriously underdriving the car. My best laps were generally in the low 1:45s. There is at least another 3-5 seconds in the stock car for your average track rat who's not looking to drive at 10/10, especially with a bit more confidence inspiring camber. I tend to drive more aggressively in the corners and lay back on the straights. For example, my high straight speed was only 128mph, and generally hung around mid-120s. There's more there if you want it. For some reason, the data log only compiled segments around the pits and on my way to a restaurant, but not around the track. User error I'm sure.

TIRES AND BRAKES.

The first day was wet and rainy all day, so I used the Michelin stock tires. The next day, I used Falken 660's on Apex EC-7s 18x9.5, and was trying to keep hot PSI around 36-37. Started both tires sets around 28, which worked for Falkens but I had to let out a couple of PSI in the Michelins. No pyrometer. Also, I had the Paragon discs and R5 front/P3 rear pads both days, with SRF fluid.

The Michelins were solid but the Falkens were at another level (for about 8-9 laps before fall off). Probably not an entirely fair comparison because of wet vs dry.

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS.

I drove the car in R+ mode, nannies on. Chose caution over speed for my first weekend out with the car.

I have always driven high horsepower rear wheel drives on track (the last was a Camaro ZL1- 650hp/650 tq), including about 1200 laps at Road Atlanta, so it was quite the change for me and tough to overcome prior habits. In particular, I found I did better with a bit earlier braking zone, quicker transition to lighter brake pressure and a lighter trail brake pressure (maybe a 1 or 2). I kept trying to push deeper in the braking zone, but found that it was harder to get the car settled by turn in, and sometimes I overslowed the car which is maddening in entry speed corners. This is probably attributable to my failure to adjust to this car's dynamics rather than inherent performance of the Type R. I'll know better after another event.

I really enjoyed the camaro, but gotta say that I had more grins with this car. Even at lower speeds, I felt the G's and speed more acutely. In fact, I really had to start to ignore the G's in my seat and push until the tires started to talk or slip. In the camaro, G's in the seat and tire slip were pretty closely correlated. Given how tentative I was, I only got serious slip in Turns 1 & 6 (from trail braking) and 12 (speed induced slip). If I could left foot brake, I'd definitely use it in Turns 7 and 10b. With the camaro, early full throttle at exit on certain turns was problematic, but this car does very well with throttle at every not involving a severe turning radius. The nannies would sometimes bog at exit, but I mostly noticed it in the slower corners .

The brakes never gave me any issues. I did get the amber "brake system" light a couple of times towards the end of some hard sessions - almost certainly from heat. Within a 1/2 lap at 7/10, the light disappears. I also had to take a cool down lap after I noticed my oil temps at around 280. Stock oil. It quickly returned to normal in less than a 1/2 lap. Water temps did NOT get too high.

CAR MODS

In addition to the more important driver mods, I intend to add Spoon rigid collars, rear camber arms and a front camber kit. I have some inquiries out to manufacturers to see if they can confirm whether the FK8 camber parts will fit the FL5. I might also look into an oil cooler given my experience this last weekend, or just start short shifting at 6500 rpm. It gets hot in Atlanta!
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dandaman15

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Great write up and great information! If you are using 0-20 please swap that out for a 5-30 or 5-40 next time and that may help somewhat on oil life and temps. If the thicker gets hot it can handle that heat better and add another layer of safety. As you get more familiar with the car an oil cooler may be necessary anyway but this would be an easier first step.
 

Bobbymcbobby

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Great write up and great information! If you are using 0-20 please swap that out for a 5-30 or 5-40 next time and that may help somewhat on oil life and temps. If the thicker gets hot it can handle that heat better and add another layer of safety. As you get more familiar with the car an oil cooler may be necessary anyway but this would be an easier first step.
hello! I've heard from some people not to change the cold temperature viscosity but it's okay to change the high temperature viscosity when choosing oils. Any reason for not using 0w-40? I'm going to assume the cold temperature is just for when you cold start the car, so it shouldn't really matter no?
 

yeaitsahonda

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Awesome! Glad it went well.

Any idea if you were getting into ABS? My car was also giving me the amber Brake System light and after the weekend I got thinking maybe I was abusing the ABS. My plan for next time was to try to stay out of it and see if the light comes on.
 

Clark_Kent

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Thanks for this write up, super helpful. How many sessions/laps did you run? As you continue to track the car it will be interesting to hear more about engine oil and water temps as it does not appear the car overheated on this outing.
 


openeyesignal

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hello! I've heard from some people not to change the cold temperature viscosity but it's okay to change the high temperature viscosity when choosing oils. Any reason for not using 0w-40? I'm going to assume the cold temperature is just for when you cold start the car, so it shouldn't really matter no?
The UK manual for the FL5 Type R recommends 10-w30 or 5w30 if you switch to non-Honda oil manufacturers. I would imagine that the 0w is mostly critical for winter time temperatures, so if you run heavier cold start oil in warmer temperatures it should be equivalent or atleast not have a significant impact.
 

rui

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The UK manual for the FL5 Type R recommends 10-w30 or 5w30 if you switch to non-Honda oil manufacturers. I would imagine that the 0w is mostly critical for winter time temperatures, so if you run heavier cold start oil in warmer temperatures it should be equivalent or atleast not have a significant impact.
That's not quite correct. This is what the UK FL5 manual says:

11th Gen Honda Civic Road Atlanta HPDE -- FL5 Track Review Screenshot 2023-04-18 at 19.57.04


0W20, 0W30, or 5W30 if temperatures don't drop below -30 C.
 

keller

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Thank you for the write up. It seems you had a blast with the Type R. I remember you were worried about understeer. How do you like the rotation of this car?

I did get the amber "brake system" light a couple of times towards the end of some hard sessions - almost certainly from heat.
I wonder what the onboard computer is measuring to trigger this dash light.

I might also look into an oil cooler given my experience this last weekend, or just start short shifting at 6500 rpm. It gets hot in Atlanta!
Oh boy...

Does the FL5 have an oil temp sensor? Otherwise you should consider adding one in case you go the oil cooler route.
 
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yeaitsahonda

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Just watched the Nurburgring lap on Honda’s YouTube channel and they got the amber brake light at about 1:30 into the video. I still don’t know why it happens but seeing it in their video makes me a lot more comfortable with it.
 

Rhorn

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hello! I've heard from some people not to change the cold temperature viscosity but it's okay to change the high temperature viscosity when choosing oils. Any reason for not using 0w-40? I'm going to assume the cold temperature is just for when you cold start the car, so it shouldn't really matter no?
Depends on the situation, but in terms of racing? Imo, No

0W-40 for is really for oil temps of +300F, its for diesel engines mostly since they run hot. You really shouldn't be seeing those temps at all with any OEM engine, so the increased temp range you get with running 0W-40 exactly isn't necessary because it is kind of overkill. At around 275-300F is what's considered to be hot and anything over 300 you are at risk for blowing up your engine. Your oil temps should range from 210-275 when pushing the car hard. The 5W is great because its an overall thicker oil so its more viscous and deteriorates at a lower rate than 0W. Diesel engines need thin oils to get all of those parts lubricated, and they are low RPMs engines.

ICE engines generally speaking have higher RPMs, and don't really need the oil to be super thin because they have more kinetic energy. (This statement is kind of counter intuitive because the stock engine oil is 0W-20. It really shouldn't be 0W-20. 0W-20 is a commonly used because its gives you good gas mileage, and it warms up the engine quickly. Fine for daily use but not for racing. Honda really should recommend 5W-20, so there's a big disconnect between the engineer designers and the planners of this car like we don't even get an official Civic Type R owners manual. It could be legal or corporate reasons why. There are gas engines from Porsche that have 0W-40 oil, but still I would be better to use 5W if you are going to rack it) Anyways, the higher RPM load is amplified when you are pushing the engines hard because there is more friction, and heat due to the higher RPMs. In a diesel engine its only hot in the combustion chamber, with a gas engine its the opposite, the hottest parts are outside the chamber, and this is due to the high friction/energy on the other moving parts due to the higher RPMs. So you would want an oil that has more viscosity to keep the resistance/lubrication on those parts.

I might be a bit off on some of my explanations but overall 5W is thicker and you want a thicker oil, not necessarily an oil rated for a higher overall temperature. Remember, "good" cars that have solid track performance have good cooling and aero, so trying to worry about oil that gets up to 300F isn't really a concern, its more about being at the sustained 212-275F range and having more kinetic energy, and trying to keep all of those parts giving you that high RPM lubricated. Remember diesel engines are more efficient. Gas engines aren't.
 
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julianobl

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The 5W is great because its an overall thicker oil so its more viscous and deteriorates at a lower rate than 0W.
Honest question, aren't 5W-20 and 0W-20 oils the same in regard to viscosity and performance at high temperatures (i.e. tracking use) and the W-rated (Winter) viscosity only being relevant for low temperatures and cold starts?

I live in a tropical climate where the temperature rarely goes below 70 F/21C and essentially don't pay much attention to W-rated viscosity.
 
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Cdsbblue

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Awesome! Glad it went well.

Any idea if you were getting into ABS? My car was also giving me the amber Brake System light and after the weekend I got thinking maybe I was abusing the ABS. My plan for next time was to try to stay out of it and see if the light comes on.
I was definitely into ABS at first when I was learning the threshold braking zone for the car and how much pedal travel and pressure was needed to get the desired results. I also kinda like using it in the rain. That's one of the reasons that I backed up the braking zone a bit at the end of the straights. The Paragons bite pretty hard on this lightish car.

That said, the amber warning did not come on until the second session (of the warmer, dry day) when I was pushing it harder and the brakes were getting toasty. I was not hitting ABS that session. I am guessing that high heat around the brakes dings a sensor (maybe the EPB sensor). Pretty quickly after I let off for cool down, light disappeared.
 
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Cdsbblue

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Thank you for the write up. It seems you had a blast with the Type R. I remember you were worried about understeer. How do you like the rotation of this car?



I wonder what the onboard computer is measuring to trigger this dash light.



Oh boy...

Does the FL5 have an oil temp sensor? Otherwise you should consider adding one in case you go the oil cooler route.
It does have a gauge for oil temps - not sure if it's a direct read.
 
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Cdsbblue

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Thank you for the write up. It seems you had a blast with the Type R. I remember you were worried about understeer. How do you like the rotation of this car?



I wonder what the onboard computer is measuring to trigger this dash light.



Oh boy...

Does the FL5 have an oil temp sensor? Otherwise you should consider adding one in case you go the oil cooler route.
Rotation from oversteer is not really there if you are smooth on inputs - at least compared to torque steer in high HP RWD.

On mid to high speed corners, I got most of my rotation from trail braking. Once you get it to rotate in, the car loves pulling you through exit.

As to understeer, nothing to mention really. Mostly because I just wasn't pushing hard enough. As a matter of fact, my biggest concern was the esses and the car felt very responsive through them. We'll see how it is with another 10-15 mph. I did almost run out of track twice in high speed sweepers.

On turn 12 (about 95-100 mph sweep to the right), I was closing on a cayman in front of me and he just lifted throttle completely at turn in and my closing speed was too high. Had to go around him on the outside (offline) and it was not a whole lot of fun. The other time, I was passing late inside (off line) in turn 1 (about 85 mph sweep right) and took the turn a bit hot. I'd say both times were driver induced rather than FWD induced.
 

keller

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It does have a gauge for oil temps - not sure if it's a direct read.
Facelift fk8 also shows oil temps, calculated from other measures since it doesn't have an oil temperature sensor. It's probably calculated from oil pressure, which is affected by an oil cooler or a different oil viscosity. Should the fl5 have similar calculations, it might be interesting to add a real oil temperature sensor in a future sandwich plate. Otherwise you might not know how accurate is that gauge after mods.

Rotation from oversteer is not really there if you are smooth on inputs - at least compared to torque steer in high HP RWD.

On mid to high speed corners, I got most of my rotation from trail braking. Once you get it to rotate in, the car loves pulling you through exit.

As to understeer, nothing to mention really. Mostly because I just wasn't pushing hard enough. As a matter of fact, my biggest concern was the esses and the car felt very responsive through them. We'll see how it is with another 10-15 mph. I did almost run out of track twice in high speed sweepers.

On turn 12 (about 95-100 mph sweep to the right), I was closing on a cayman in front of me and he just lifted throttle completely at turn in and my closing speed was too high. Had to go around him on the outside (offline) and it was not a whole lot of fun. The other time, I was passing late inside (off line) in turn 1 (about 85 mph sweep right) and took the turn a bit hot. I'd say both times were driver induced rather than FWD induced.
Thank you for the detailed response. What were your tire pressures? You mentioned the nannies in your exits. That seems like the understeer assist acting up, unless it was a traction issue.
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