To Lower or Not to Lower?

[dank82]

Hey all!

So I keep going back and forth with myself on this, but figured I'd post something to get some input...

I have a set of Eibach Pro Kits and the rear camber kit waiting to be installed, but keep thinking maybe I shouldn't go forward with it, as I don't want to mess with the handling too much on the FL5.

The initial plan was to pair both with some 275/35s, as well as install the Spoon rigid collars. Get an alignment similar to stock, or -2.0ish camber in the front, -1.5ish camber for the rear.

But then I think to myself, what if I don't like the way it handles? I drive mostly street and spirited quite a bit through twisties/hard turns, with some eventual track time planned, but I'm just wondering if I'm going to regret lowering springs at all.

For reference I've got a strut bar on the car, all the Cusco underbody braces and rear sway bar, and the PRL RMM currently.

Am I thinking about this the wrong way, or will I be able to make the car handle even better with the right alignment? I really like how the car handles right now, but it would look nicer a bit lower. Just don't want to compromise the handling piece.

Sponsored

 

[Nikw91]

The way the car came from the factory set all the records. They didn’t lower it and install sway bars to achieve those records.

However, springs will give you a lower center of gravity and should make you faster in theory. Same with sway bars, they may make the car rotate better to your liking.

It also could throw off all of Honda’s engineering.

Personally, I am leaving my suspension stock because it feels amazingly balanced as is at the track and I’m able to clear Florida thunderstorm puddles and roadkill without destroying my lip or bumper.

Plus, I just finished going down the cooling mod rabbit hole and my bank account needs to recover.

 

[MooMoo]

I just lowered with H&R, still need to do some more driving and hoping to take it to auto x on wednesday. However car feels about the same to me honestly. I don't think springs will make you faster but will also not making you slower. Will look better

 

[Xmetal]

Personally, I don't know how you guys with lowered suspension drive around without scraping the heck out of the under spoiler, especially those with an added front splitter to give it a Jay Leno chin! I am already scraping if I enter/exiting my driveway in a slightly wrong angle at stock height and my driveway isn't even steep! One of the downside of the FL5 design is the huge front overhang...typical of a FWD platform, I guess.

 

[MooMoo]

Oh yeah haver to be a bit more careful now but the H&Rs only drop .8 but thats still something. Lip is a no go for me, car would definitely be too low then.

 

[optronix]

Honestly, before proceeding any further you should watch this video, just be aware it's generalized and many of the concepts covered there are no current parts existing to correct- but just to be aware of for edification:



For our platform specifically though, if you do the appropriate camber modifications the car will handle better. But that will be because of the camber, not the springs, and there will always be slight compromises- whether it's "good" or "bad" is probably up to an individual. Because it will be "different"... but in subtle ways. It will look better, will not ruin the car (unless you do nothing and leave the camber as it is after the springs...)- but if you're looking for distinct performance improvements and don't care as much about aesthetics you're better off leaving the car stock, honestly.

Just one other thing to make sure you're aware of- you mention rear camber arms but also suggest your plan is to "get an alignment" to get -2.0 degrees of front camber. You can't hit -2 degrees without lower ball joints or camber plates. There is no factory adjustment for camber. And FYSA lower ball joints are kind of the only show in town if you don't want to also do coilovers, but you're limited to 1 full degree increments; so basically you can have -1 or -2 degrees MORE negative camber. So -2 total front camber is actually kind of tricky to hit. -2.5 is probably where you'll be if you lower and use the "middle setting".

Worth mentioning there's the informal method of stripping out the strut tower alignment pins and loosening all the bolts in the suspension and pushing/pulling to literally squeeze out a bit more camber. Some YouTubers may claim you could get to -2 that way, and theoretically it may be possible. All this to say now you know you can't drop it off at a Pep Boys and tell them to put it to -2...

 

[MooMoo]

I just did BJs and wirh pins pushed out I got -2.2/-2.3 so around that is as low as you can go with BJs. I was actually hoping for 2.5 so will have another alignment eventually. My back is at like 1.9/2.3, one of my sides in rear always had more camber than the other an springs exaggerated it more so camber arms in my future likely.

 

[iTurn]

Sometimes spelling this out works best...

 

[optronix]

As I've documented a few times on this forum, I set my LBJs at the most aggressive setting, which put me at -3.5 in the front (without pulling the strut pins). It is aggressive, and a bit twitchy on the street- but nothing catastrophic just took a little getting used to. I also was rocking RT660s last summer/fall and it was acceptable in the rain as well as long as the temps were decent. I swapped in early November as to not push my luck.

All that said, it's too much camber IMHA. It's fantastic for turn in and controllable lift-off oversteer which is one of the things I LOVE about this platform- but I need to at least attempt it with -2.5, because I kill tires very quickly. Notably not while driving normally on the street- I've had my all season Contis on since November and put about 5-7k miles on them and they are no worse for the wear- they still look brand new in fact. But my primary use is autocross- I drive like a grandpa on the street. I corded my Michelins shockingly fast (not to blow smoke but I'm just too fast a driver for PS4S...), and shredded the RF Falken at a single event last year- albeit it was pretty chilly at ~50 degrees and I think that contributed heavily. Also Falkens aren't really known for their durability and many folks have complained that sometimes they literally fall apart under duress so there's that.

All this to say I need to dial back the camber. So unless you've already tried -2.5ish and been left wanting, that's where I'd suggest to go.

 

[MooMoo]

Sometimes spelling this out works best...

HAHA its such an inside joke with some buddies that I let it slip out in the public forum

 

[MooMoo]

As I've documented a few times on this forum, I set my LBJs at the most aggressive setting, which put me at -3.5 in the front (without pulling the strut pins). It is aggressive, and a bit twitchy on the street- but nothing catastrophic just took a little getting used to. I also was rocking RT660s last summer/fall and it was acceptable in the rain as well as long as the temps were decent. I swapped in early November as to not push my luck.

All that said, it's too much camber IMHA. It's fantastic for turn in and controllable lift-off oversteer which is one of the things I LOVE about this platform- but I need to at least attempt it with -2.5, because I kill tires very quickly. Notably not while driving normally on the street- I've had my all season Contis on since November and put about 5-7k miles on them and they are no worse for the wear- they still look brand new in fact. But my primary use is autocross- I drive like a grandpa on the street. I corded my Michelins shockingly fast (not to blow smoke but I'm just too fast a driver for PS4S...), and shredded the RF Falken at a single event last year- albeit it was pretty chilly at ~50 degrees and I think that contributed heavily. Also Falkens aren't really known for their durability and many folks have complained that sometimes they literally fall apart under duress so there's that.

All this to say I need to dial back the camber. So unless you've already tried -2.5ish and been left wanting, that's where I'd suggest to go.

I want 2.5/2.6 and shoulda gone to my alignment guy and we could have dialed it but was in a hurry and needed a inspection so just took it to dealer so camber stayed where it was which was pins pushed out since I asked for that when springs got installed hoping for -2.5. Its fine I will get another alignment prob mid summer after getting car on track and auto x for a few months.

lol I also drive like a grandpa on the street, I save it all for the auto x and track. From talking to a few friends that also track/track more than I do seems like -3.5 is too much as in it will destroy your tires, on track and off track so a bit less is better as you have also mentioned. It seems like this car is ok with less camber too compared to cars with different suspensions types.

Also totally get what you saying, once you got some pace you just can't use summer tires, you will demolish them in 1 event and that is no fun at all.

 

[mattrose4]

I want 2.5/2.6 and shoulda gone to my alignment guy and we could have dialed it but was in a hurry and needed a inspection so just took it to dealer so camber stayed where it was which was pins pushed out since I asked for that when springs got installed hoping for -2.5. Its fine I will get another alignment prob mid summer after getting car on track and auto x for a few months.

lol I also drive like a grandpa on the street, I save it all for the auto x and track. From talking to a few friends that also track/track more than I do seems like -3.5 is too much as in it will destroy your tires, on track and off track so a bit less is better as you have also mentioned. It seems like this car is ok with less camber too compared to cars with different suspensions types.

Also totally get what you saying, once you got some pace you just can't use summer tires, you will demolish them in 1 event and that is no fun at all.

Im currently at -2.8 in the front with the LBJ and -2.0 in the rear on a 275 35 18. I have a track day April 23rd and autox event the 26th. I am lowered on eibach sportlines so this is going to be the ultimate test if I'm going to keep the car lowered. I'm leaning towards putting the oem springs on again if I dont like how it handles and if I rub. Part of me misses not having a lowered car, but I love how it looks lowered

 

[Jack90210]

As an aside, how do you like the car with the Cusco braces, and how's the difference on the street?

 

[PointByPatrol]

Hey all!

So I keep going back and forth with myself on this, but figured I'd post something to get some input...

I have a set of Eibach Pro Kits and the rear camber kit waiting to be installed, but keep thinking maybe I shouldn't go forward with it, as I don't want to mess with the handling too much on the FL5.

The initial plan was to pair both with some 275/35s, as well as install the Spoon rigid collars. Get an alignment similar to stock, or -2.0ish camber in the front, -1.5ish camber for the rear.

But then I think to myself, what if I don't like the way it handles? I drive mostly street and spirited quite a bit through twisties/hard turns, with some eventual track time planned, but I'm just wondering if I'm going to regret lowering springs at all.

For reference I've got a strut bar on the car, all the Cusco underbody braces and rear sway bar, and the PRL RMM currently.

Am I thinking about this the wrong way, or will I be able to make the car handle even better with the right alignment? I really like how the car handles right now, but it would look nicer a bit lower. Just don't want to compromise the handling piece.

Honestly dude, I think it's one of those mods that just opens the door to more frustration in the future...

 

[T41WN.1]

If you don't mind the stock ride height look then there's no need to lower it. I'm lowered on spoon springs and can confidently say that it does not negatively impact the performance. My lap times in fact got faster but 99.9% sure its because of seat time. Overall, the spoon springs didn't make the ride more uncomfortable just might scrape a bit more. But the looks to me, makes it all worth it.

Sponsored