*The FL5 Track Junkie Thread*

[J_D]

Hi everyone. I’ve been using my stock OE PS4S tires for lapping, and will be getting to the point where I’d like to upgrade for an endurance 200TW. My car is bone stock apart from brake pads, DE5 ads and fluid, and I likely won’t change anything else for years mod wise. Apart from replacing consumables like brakes of course.

I can pretty much get both of these wheels and tires for the same price

265/35/18 RS4 on a 18x9.5” +45
285/35/18 RS4 on a 18x10.5 +47

The only reason I am looking at 285s is that I’ve seen they fit, and it seems comically large for a Civic.

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[J_D]

Does anyone have an experience with the EBC RP-X pads? I absolutely loved them for my Gr Corolla for track use. The Fl5 I run Hawk HP+ for autox and I have been experimenting with tracks pads. Ive run paragon R3s for rear and for front have tried Hawk ER-1 and R5s, for track so far. I have purchased the RP-X just have not gotten to use them yet.

I used them for 6 track days for 2 years. I am a novice. I love the bite, however after my last track day one ]inner pad decided to fall apart and coated my wheel and car in rusty brake dust. I am using SR11 now. I’d have gone RPX again if I didn’t find a deal on SR11s.

The SR11 do not like having other pad material on disc. They were vibrating like crazy until I wore down the old RPX layer. I only get minor vibration now at low speeds

 

[WhiskyThief]

Thanks for the input. I really love the way the pads felt in my previous car. I am very excited to get to see how they feel in the civic. I was a full brake zone flag later than any other pad i had run on the main straight at same track anyway, Well the confidence allowed me to get the later number with the rpx pads. They were very hard on rotors though.

 

[west357]

Hi everyone. I’ve been using my stock OE PS4S tires for lapping, and will be getting to the point where I’d like to upgrade for an endurance 200TW. My car is bone stock apart from brake pads, DE5 ads and fluid, and I likely won’t change anything else for years mod wise. Apart from replacing consumables like brakes of course.

I can pretty much get both of these wheels and tires for the same price

265/35/18 RS4 on a 18x9.5” +45
285/35/18 RS4 on a 18x10.5 +47

The only reason I am looking at 285s is that I’ve seen they fit, and it seems comically large for a Civic.

I currently have a set of RS4s 275/35 on 18x9.5 et35. I have 2 track days (9-25 min sessions) they are wearing better than the potenza race 200tw they replaced and much better than the stock PS4S. The car is not stock cooling stuff DP tune ~375hp to the wheels AP racing BBK etc. I just ordered a set of Apex 18x11 et44 to stuff the biggest tires I can on the car. I do the pedal dance and I’m getting pretty significant wheel spin. Even in 3rd over gear over elevation changes. Very frustrating. I have a set of Michelin slicks off a mustang dark horse IMSA car which run Apex 18x11 VS5-RE. Should be interesting. So I would always tell someone to get the bigger wheel/tire especially if they are the same price. No brainer for me.

 

[mattrose4]

Has anyone experienced vibrating in the rear brakes when pads are hot on track? I have paragon rotors and p3 pads in the front (zero vibrating) and OEM brembos and new oem rotors in the rear. When braking hard on track I noticed the rear is vibrating, but I dont feel it in the pedal nor do I get it when I drive or ease the brake on the street. This only happens when the brakes get hot. I do run motul 600 fluid. I thought it may be warped rotors, but then shouldn't the vibrate all the time no matter how hard I brake? Maybe its just a normal noise ( I only have 4 track days total under my belt so still a little green) Everything is torqued to factory spec as well. I run with VSA completely off as well.

 

[J_D]

Regarding oil temps, from my readings here. On a stock car, it’s normal for LogR to read temps like 132C (270f). The temp sensor is fake and interpolated from the ECU. With a quality oil this isn’t an issue, assuming you do a cooldown lap eventually

What to look out for is the coolant temp? That is what will spike and trigger limp
Mode?

 

[simpleisbest]

Has anyone experienced vibrating in the rear brakes when pads are hot on track? I have paragon rotors and p3 pads in the front (zero vibrating) and OEM brembos and new oem rotors in the rear. When braking hard on track I noticed the rear is vibrating, but I dont feel it in the pedal nor do I get it when I drive or ease the brake on the street. This only happens when the brakes get hot. I do run motul 600 fluid. I thought it may be warped rotors, but then shouldn't the vibrate all the time no matter how hard I brake? Maybe its just a normal noise ( I only have 4 track days total under my belt so still a little green) Everything is torqued to factory spec as well. I run with VSA completely off as well.

Usually vibration like that is vibration due to poor or uneven pad bedding.

If you did new pads/rotors in the rear at the same time, check the wear pattern to see if it is even. If not, you might need to clean the rotors (both sides) and re-bed. If you didnt change pads at the same time, it is likely that your rear pads are not bedding well. I would suggest you inspect the pads. If the pads look decent, you can try to clean off the rotors and re-bed, or replace pads and rebed. Easy way to clean is use brake clean and a rotor honing tool. While you are in there, check the rear caliper slider bushing to make sure it is still in good shape.

 

[MooMoo]

pad deposits for sure and yes for sure I have had them

 

[iforgettopee]

What to look out for is the coolant temp?

Keep coolant temps under 240
remember that water boils at 212

 

[mistople]

Hey everyone, dropping in to say hi before my first track day at The Ridge in my FL5. I have a good amount of track experience on my GR86 (and BRZ before it) but have never ventured into FWD territory.

I've got the car mostly prepped with CSG C1XB pads, fresh Endless RF650 and 5w30, and the WOT cooling plate. Then I splurged on the labor day sale for a set of Apex 18x9.5 VS-5RS. Just had 275/35R18 RE17RZ mounted.

Can't wait to see how this thing does!

 

[CG13]

Hey everyone, dropping in to say hi before my first track day at The Ridge in my FL5. I have a good amount of track experience on my GR86 (and BRZ before it) but have never taken ventured into FWD territory.

I've got the car mostly prepped with CSG C1XB pads, fresh Endless RF650 and 5w30, and the WOT cooling plate. Then I splurged on the labor day sale for a set of Apex 18x9.5 VS-5RS. Just had 275/35R18 RE17RZ mounted.

Can't wait to see how this thing does!

Good luck!

Remove the rain guard under the hood and run your heater while watching water/oil temps. Carefully watch your tire temps and pressures and front tire wear since you’re running stock camber. ABSOLUTELY run with the pedal dance activated so you don’t destroy your rear brake pads.

 

[mistople]

Good luck!

Remove the rain guard under the hood and run your heater while watching water/oil temps. Carefully watch your tire temps and pressures and front tire wear since you’re running stock camber. ABSOLUTELY run with the pedal dance activated so you don’t destroy your rear brake pads.

Thanks for the tips! Definitely removing the rain guard and blasting heat! Luckily it looks like it will be on the cooler side that day—PNW has its benefits—but I'll be watching temps regardless.

Pedal dance for sure. Stock camber is indeed a bummer but at least it'll be more of a 7/10ths day until I get more comfortable. Might rotate tires at lunch too.

 

[chadwicke619]

Thanks for the tips! Definitely removing the rain guard and blasting heat! Luckily it looks like it will be on the cooler side that day—PNW has its benefits—but I'll be watching temps regardless.

Pedal dance for sure. Stock camber is indeed a bummer but at least it'll be more of a 7/10ths day until I get more comfortable. Might rotate tires at lunch too.

If you expect a 7/10 day, AND cool, I would say this advice is completely meaningless for you. I wouldn’t remove the rain guard, I wouldn’t run the heater, your camber will be fine, and I definitely wouldn’t bother with the pedal dance. You’re just going to make yourself uncomfortable and create extra work for no real benefit. When you start reaching pace and ambient temps are warm, these things will start to matter. Have fun!

 

[CG13]

If you expect a 7/10 day, AND cool, I would say this advice is completely meaningless for you. I wouldn’t remove the rain guard, I wouldn’t run the heater, your camber will be fine, and I definitely wouldn’t bother with the pedal dance. You’re just going to make yourself uncomfortable and create extra work for no real benefit. When you start reaching pace and ambient temps are warm, these things will start to matter. Have fun!

Nothing about that makes sense to me other than perhaps the “uncomfortable” part if running the heat.

Pedal dance takes 10 seconds, saves your brakes, and has no downside on track.

Rain guard takes 30 seconds, zero downside.

Camber will be a problem for PS4S if his 7/10 is fast enough. I know this from going through a lot of PS4S tires on track before and after camber adjustment.

 

[mistople]

The PS4S won’t hit the track unless it rains. I’ll be on those RE71RZs pictured above.

I’ll do the rain guard and pedal dance and just keep an eye on stuff. CSG pads are expensive (also incredible btw, blew me away even pre-bedding at street temps) so I’d rather not roast the rears on day 1. 7/10ths to start and we’ll see if I can restrain myself

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