FL5 Track Considerations

[metal_driver]

Leave stability management on, at first. It will save your butt. Check brake pad wear. I went through a set of rears in less than 3 track days.
Consider adding paint protection to the front. Chasing cars with sticky tires at 130 mph can lead to stone chips. Practice turning off your turn signals and windshield wipers: they are easy to inadvertently turn on while flailing around at speed. Fill up after every session or two, the gas gauge on the prior version was very unreliable at the track. Run with the heater on to bleed off engine heat and avoid the TypeR’s dreaded limp mode.
There is a steep learning curve and it takes a while to reprogram your brain to track mode. So be patient and don't be surprised when someone in a clapped out Miata is faster!

/\ This is great advice as I have found out over my past first two years on a track (FK8).

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[Cooler2442]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

 

[dandaman15]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

If you are going to track the car and heat up the brakes, there is no getting around minor bleeds. SRF is the highest quality and most boiling resistant but I would expect it to still lose life after a season and many heat cycles.

Ive always got the large cans of ATE200 or the updated "super blue" and bleed once I feel the pedal get slightly softer. Its cheaper and still performs well.

 

[keller]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

I use motul rbf700, Ti shims and good pads and I have found the rbf to be good for at least a year and multiple track days. I wouldn't go past that. I also always test it for air and moisture when bedding in new pads and before track days. These brembo calipers are not the best for bleeding, you'll soon read reports of unnerving caliper weeping on the track.

 

[yeaitsahonda]

I think Castrol SRF is the golden standard. Even with it though you should probably replace it once per year and bleed it if you feel it getting spongy. It's pricey but the Motul stuff comes in 500mL bottles vs the 1L of Castrol so it's not near as bad as it looks at first glance.

 

[madbikes]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often?Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

Castro SRF is pretty set-and-forget for its high wet boiling point. Brake fluid should be changed once every two years regardless of mileage for mostly street use, more frequent depending on how much track use.

 

[Splice247]

Good advice from the other except one caveat, don't torque your lug nuts between each session. Wheels/brakes need to be stone when torquing. If you torque them after coming off a hot session your will over torque them and snap lug studs. Just do it at the start of the day and maybe after lunch when they cooled off.

 

[9doors]

Late to a great thread…I have 13 years of track experience (Gen 1 NSX, Radical Prosport, NASA Instructor), but I‘m new to the FL5. My question for you is: Brake pads? Obviously we need them, and I see a lot of you mentioning them, but what exactly do you recommend for these Brembos? I have experience with PFC and Carbotech, but am looking for insights on say, both a street/track and dedicated track pads for the CTR. Thanks!

 

[keller]

Late to a great thread…I have 13 years of track experience (Gen 1 NSX, Radical Prosport, NASA Instructor), but I‘m new to the FL5. My question for you is: Brake pads? Obviously we need them, and I see a lot of you mentioning them, but what exactly do you recommend for these Brembos? I have experience with PFC and Carbotech, but am looking for insights on say, both a street/track and dedicated track pads for the CTR. Thanks!

You can use the Carbotech compound you are used to (XP12, XP20?). The PN for our brembos is CT1001. Paragon is one of the favorites with the FK8 crowd, mainly R5 or R7. I'm running EBC RP-1 at the moment, but moving to RP-X next trackday.

You should consider getting a set of titanium pad shims if going with any of these racing pads.

 

[9doors]

You can use the Carbotech compound you are used to (XP12, XP20?). The PN for our brembos is CT1001. Paragon is one of the favorites with the FK8 crowd, mainly R5 or R7. I'm running EBC RP-1 at the moment, but moving to RP-X next trackday.

You should consider getting a set of titanium pad shims if going with any of these racing pads.

Thanks! I have had (pre-COVID) sponsorship from Carbotech, so I may go back to them. I assume the CT1001 is for the fronts? PN for the rears?

I’ve seen a lot of Paragon comments, will have to look into them. How do you like the EBCs and what are your reasons for changing from the RP-1 to the X?

Thanks for the shim reference, have never needed them (titanium) in the previous cars (the NSX has a Tarox setup and the Radical has Wilwood calipers) but they look like a nice component that I’ll probably get.

 

[keller]

Thanks! I have had (pre-COVID) sponsorship from Carbotech, so I may go back to them. I assume the CT1001 is for the fronts? PN for the rears?

I’ve seen a lot of Paragon comments, will have to look into them. How do you like the EBCs and what are your reasons for changing from the RP-1 to the X?

Thanks for the shim reference, have never needed them (titanium) in the previous cars (the NSX has a Tarox setup and the Radical has Wilwood calipers) but they look like a nice component that I’ll probably get.

Carbotech seems like a solid choice. Yes, CT1001 is for the fronts. I don't know what options exist for the rears, I think honda changed the rear caliper from the FK8 (can someone confirm this?). I'm using OEM rear pads and they are good enough for my local track. Factory rear pads lasted 10+ trackdays but YMMV.

Paragon has good products for the Type R. People tend to use their upgraded rotors (or girodiscs) before jumping to a big brake kit. I like these EBC racing pads because they are quite good in low temps (thus safe for street use) and they simply don't fade. I used to boil my braking fluid (Motul rbf700) before feeling any fade. It hasn't happened since I installed the titanium shims. I'm moving to RP-X (higher Mu) because the RP-1 has considerably increased my braking distance. The A052 has insane grip and the RP-1 is not even close to locking my wheels.

If you'd like to read more, you can always go to fk8 threads, like: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/let’s-talk-brake-upgrades-for-track-use.59629/ The 2020+ fk8 has the exact same front brakes as the fl5. Pre-facelift fk8s only had different rotors.

Since I mentioned the titanium shims, people here should know these calipers have a tendency to become brownbos once you get more experienced and comfortable with the car on the track. And no one wants that in their brand new Type R.

Welcome to the forum, by the way! Please share your experiences when you get to track your car.

 

[CTRifecta]

I'm preparing for my first track day and after reading this thread, convinced that I should swap my oem brake fluid out.

Question for those that have bled their own fluid, is there a specific order around which brake to bleed? I know in my s2k there's an optimal order (can't recall it at the moment).. thanks!

 

[keller]

I'm preparing for my first track day and after reading this thread, convinced that I should swap my oem brake fluid out.

Question for those that have bled their own fluid, is there a specific order around which brake to bleed? I know in my s2k there's an optimal order (can't recall it at the moment).. thanks!

I can get you the complete fk8 procedure from the service manual if you like. It's FL (ext then internal), FR (ext then internal), RR, RL, cycle e-brakes 5 times, redo rears.

 

[CTRifecta]

I can get you the complete fk8 procedure from the service manual if you like. It's FL (ext then internal), FR (ext then internal), RR, RL, cycle e-brakes 5 times, redo rears.

That would be awesome, thank you

 

[keller]

That would be awesome, thank you

Here you go.

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