FL5 Track Considerations

[metal_driver]

Leave stability management on, at first. It will save your butt. Check brake pad wear. I went through a set of rears in less than 3 track days.
Consider adding paint protection to the front. Chasing cars with sticky tires at 130 mph can lead to stone chips. Practice turning off your turn signals and windshield wipers: they are easy to inadvertently turn on while flailing around at speed. Fill up after every session or two, the gas gauge on the prior version was very unreliable at the track. Run with the heater on to bleed off engine heat and avoid the TypeR’s dreaded limp mode.
There is a steep learning curve and it takes a while to reprogram your brain to track mode. So be patient and don't be surprised when someone in a clapped out Miata is faster!

/\ This is great advice as I have found out over my past first two years on a track (FK8).

 

[Cooler2442]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

 

[dandaman15]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

If you are going to track the car and heat up the brakes, there is no getting around minor bleeds. SRF is the highest quality and most boiling resistant but I would expect it to still lose life after a season and many heat cycles.

Ive always got the large cans of ATE200 or the updated "super blue" and bleed once I feel the pedal get slightly softer. Its cheaper and still performs well.

 

[keller]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often? I read that Motul 600/660 requires bleeding often and Castrol SRF doesn't? Should I get SRF? Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

I use motul rbf700, Ti shims and good pads and I have found the rbf to be good for at least a year and multiple track days. I wouldn't go past that. I also always test it for air and moisture when bedding in new pads and before track days. These brembo calipers are not the best for bleeding, you'll soon read reports of unnerving caliper weeping on the track.

 

[yeaitsahonda]

I think Castrol SRF is the golden standard. Even with it though you should probably replace it once per year and bleed it if you feel it getting spongy. It's pricey but the Motul stuff comes in 500mL bottles vs the 1L of Castrol so it's not near as bad as it looks at first glance.

 

[madbikes]

What's a good brake fluid to get as an intermediate driver that doesn't require bleeding often?Mainly just want a set and forget then bleed once every few years or something like that. Price is not a concern on the fluid.

Castro SRF is pretty set-and-forget for its high wet boiling point. Brake fluid should be changed once every two years regardless of mileage for mostly street use, more frequent depending on how much track use.